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Everything posted by sardengineering

  1. Good day. Just as Dave has pointed out, this should have resolved the problem. Nothing else comes to mind, except for the loss of data flow through the communication port. I know this will be putting you out of your way but can you confirm whether you are using the same USB port always, or if you are using a single (same) USB port in every instance. Also, if you abruptly disconnect the communication cable, will this crash the PCLink in the same manner, or will you revert to an offline status in the PCLink software? With an intermittent problem, it can be difficult to have an absolute resolution. I would hate to ask that you try using another laptop for an extended interval, with the USB power mode disabled and comm port settings optimized of course, but this might be another alternative. Having said this though, your best practices approach is actually the ideal response to the described instance. Thanks again for sharing your experience, cheers!
  2. I am sorry to hear that your CDI box was the source of your grief, however, in the same breath, I am happy your were able to follow logical steps to diagnose the fault. That by itself is a win! For CDI boxes I would advise either the 500R from Autronic or the vast range of boxes from M&W, when it comes to CDI boxes reliability is everything. Believe the units you are speaking of convert the incoming triggers to the correct edge, or so it would appear based on your brief explanation. For your described scenario, and for most racing applications it's quite normal to use by-pass harnesses. The G4+ won't be able to power the dumb double ended coil pack, and ignitor will be needed for that. Like you said, for the given instance a solution with a quick release harness by-pass can be implemented with no changes to the G4+ itself. It's been years since I last installed a MSD box, surely there must be a viable solution which works for you. It sounds as though you have a much better understanding of the task at hand, especially the specifics you require the installation to offer. However, should you require any further assistance getting your G4+ to fit and suite your installation better please feel free to make follow up posts at your convenience. Thanks for using the Link brand, cheers!
  3. Hello Jasaircraft. I can appreciate your attempts to keep things simple and straight forward, but Dave's advisory is actually spot on correct. I am very sorry for any confusion with respect to the instructions issued by the MSD support staff, we aren't here to contradict. Dave's response as well as mine were based on the theory of Capacitive Discharge Ignition systems such as the unit your as using from MSD. CDI works fundamentally different with respect to Inductive Discharge Ignition, which was the OEM solution. To switch between you must expect components to change and to be replaced as well as a difference in the install procedure. The easiest approach is just as Dave explained, the ignition output from the G4+ > MSD inputs > MSD coil inputs > lastly terminating the spark through the plug wires then to the spark plugs. What you have to be mindful of is the trigger edge coming from the G4+ and what is the trigger edge the MSD box is looking, they must match up. For this install, it might be best to build up a fresh harness to go between the G4+ and the MSD DIS-2 as well as the MSD DIS-2 and the coil pack. It sounds more labor intensive than it really is. Also, I know it might sound like a big ask but you should at the very least understand and be able to follow the installation through. This way you can both diagnose and accept support to diagnose any problems. I wouldn't be measuring the signal coming from the CDI box to the coil as this is an extremely high voltage spark energy signal. Remember that in a CDI installation the dumb coils only act as pulse transformers, they neither store nor amplify; the spark energy comes from the collapsed capacitors inside the CDI box. Within the OEM solution, an Inductive Dischage Ignition was used and just as the name implies it functions on the inductive principle. The coil has both a primary wound and a secondary wound, the collapsing of these wounds takes a low voltage high current signal and turns it into a high voltage low current signal which terminates at the spark plug as high spark energy. So the same coil works in two different ways. In hindsight, you may use an oscilloscope to verify the ignition pulse coming into the MSD DIS-2. Coming out of the MSD DIS-2 and to the coils, I would use the inductive clamp of a timing light. I am terribly sorry the solution isn't straight forward enough to resolve immediately, but when I get back to my desk (time difference) I can verify the settings on the G4+ for you. Where to find the menus and what the values should be. Looking forward to your success mate, cheers!
  4. Good day. Please note that CDI installation don't need ignitors, ignitors are used to prevent the fly back from the collapse of an inductive coil and in addition there's a manual cap (limit) on the maximum dwell the coil can receive. While I'm on the same topic, please note that CDI boxes are not to be used with smart coils, only dumb coils which don't have internal ignitors. The reason for this is that the coil used with a CDI box must act like pulse transformer rather than an energy storage medium as with an inductive discharge ignition system. Things to be mindful of when using CDI boxes is the trigger edge the box should be receiving from the ECU, in this case the G4+. Should you need any other assistance please feel free to follow up at your convenience. Oh and please do take care when identifying whether your wasted spark coils are dumb (without and internal ignitor) or smart (carrying an internal ignitor). If I recall correctly the coil packs sitting on the intake manifold either carry 3 pins if they're dumb or 4 pins if they're smart. Cheers!
  5. Good day. Please note that the new Black Edition Storm doesn't have an on-board MAP sensor as the previous Strom ECU had. However, there are some amazing advancement which have been added to make it well and truly amazing value for money. Should you have any further questions or curiosities please fee free to post them at your convenience. Thanks again for your interest, cheers!
  6. Thanks for sharing, we will be looking forward to having this diagnosed and resolved for you so that you may go on to enjoy your investment. Cheers!
  7. Great, we'll be looking forward to your follow up cheers!
  8. Good day. I stand to be corrected here, but this sounds like a power management setting from within Windows which is resetting (momentarily interrupting) the USB connection when the power source is altered. I would try disabling the feature so that nothing happens as you transition from AC power to battery power and vice versa on your laptop. You should be able to find the Advanced Power Settings within any version of Windows by going through the Control Panel. I think you should be safe by adjusting the USB entry only and nothing else, so all other entries can be left as is or at least to your preference as an end user. This is of course assuming that this is the source of your problem. If the problem persists then we will have to revisit with additional feedback. Cheers!
  9. Good day. Is that laptop on battery power or is it using a power pack connected to an inverter connected inside the car? Can you share a log of what happens please? Or can you describe what happens? Does the engine speed drop low stumbling the engine, almost in a manner where load devices such as radiator fans causes a high current draw which exhausts the available torque for the engine at idle. Does that sound similar to what you are experiencing?
  10. Good day. Since I don't have neither the 1UZFE nor the 2UZFE local to me I won't be able to give you any confirmed validation. My apologies for this. However, the wiring fundamentals for solenoid remain the same so having this I think that a non-evasive testing exercise can be completed to back what has been understood about the 1UZFE. With the use of the evap solenoid, I do believe it can be used as a bypass valve to aid stability of idle control. However, I think that you will find the idle ignition control strategy might be capable enough to deliver exactly what you might be looking for when it comes to a stable idle. In most, if not many instances, the idle ignition strategy is more than capable but for cases where the ignition advance available isn't enough to control the torque of the engine it is necessary to introduce an air bypass valve to feed the engine more air so it can be abled to produce more torque potentially; with more air then more fuel (energy) can be added and with this extra air and fuel the engine has a greater potential ability to produce more torque to stabilize itself at idle. Different OEM manufacturers will have different strategies for this, but it's not uncommon to deviate from this when using an aftermarket ECU. Cheers.
  11. No worries mate, I'm more than happy to assist. Cheers!
  12. The internal MAP sensors on the Storm ecus was a 4 BAR, it's the only 4BAR in the drop down list for MAP sensor types. What you can also do is complete the calibration test to make sure there are no errors and the data is sensible. Cheers!
  13. Good day. It sounds like your idle speed control valve might be regulating itself causing more by pass air to enter the engine than necessary for idle causing the engine speed to raise momentarily as you have described. It's unlikely that incorrect fuel or ignition advance can cause the described, however, I stand to be corrected. What you can do when the engine starts up, or even before the engine starts up for that matter, open up the PCLink software and connect to your Link ECU. When connected press F12 to open up the run time values then navigate to the auxiliary tab. Proceed to start the engine while paying attention to the Idle Speed section of the windows in the lower left had corner. You should see the duty cycle reflected as a percentage change in relation to the engine speed. If such is the case then you can open up ECU Settings (View on the main menu of PCLink then select ECU Settings), navigate and open up the Idle Speed Control entry and within Idle Speed Control you should turn your attention to the Startup Step Table as well as the Idle Base Position Table for adjustments to correct the described problem. You may choose to view these tables live during startup or you may choose to enable PC Logging to capture the data for you to be reviewed while the engine is off. Don't forget to press the F1 key while you are on the respective tables to get detailed help file information relative to tasks you may be undertaking. Cheers!
  14. Thanks for sharing Scott, makes a good addition for general knowledge. Cheers!
  15. Good day. Your proposed points sound okay based on the big increases of air flow into the engine relative to throttle opening. So to have break points to cover the range of big increases in VE would be best based on what you are asking. Ignition advance is influenced on fuel and bore diameter in addition to what you've already listed. I would either use the onboard knock windowing of the G4+ or the Link Knock Block so that you can listen to the combustion event as it happens making adjustments based on the feedback you get. The is an extremely interesting project, if you can, please leave a few photos in the customer car section of the forum. It's great to see the Link brand utilized in such a diverse manner. Cheers!
  16. Good day to you M.johnny and thank you for the enquiry. For a 2JZ with active variable valve timing I would advise the Xtreme Black Edition based on your choices. You will be able to control the injectors in sequential mode as well as the ignition with a direct fire strategy. Another upside would be the available analog voltage and analog temperature channels which can be used to monitor many systems on your car. You can use them to evaluate anything from effectiveness of an oil cooler by mounting temperature sensors before and after the cooling core. Or, you can choose to mount pressure transducers and potentiometers which can enable you to look at brake pedal pressure, suspension travel, fuel pressure, oil pressure and even exhaust back pressure if so desired. With the Xtreme you will also have quite a few switched inputs available to enable and disable features such as launch control, anti-lag strategies, alternate fuel/ignition/wastegate (boost) tables, compressor wheel speed, driven as well as non-driven wheel speed for traction control strategies or even data logging. The Atom is more geared to a basic four cylinder or two/single cylinder engines which only need to basics. The Atom isn't geared towards a competition setup and as such it lacks features which are synonymous with Motorsports. Should you have more specific questions please feel free to respond accordingly. Cheers! P.S. I almost forgot to mention that the Link Fury is an excellent solution for your engine as well. The main difference between the Fury and the Xtreme Black Edition would be the additional inputs and outputs the Xtreme has, but the Fury has support for onboard lambda so all you will need is a common Bosch LSU 4.9. I always find it best to outline what you need to control with the ECU of choice along with what functionality you will like the ECU to manage for you, then you can draft up a simple matrix breakdown of the ECU(s) you are looking at. Your calibrator should be able to assist you or your nearest Link dealer.
  17. Great, I think that you should be okay to resolve the problem going forward. The LC-2 is a good lambda meter and it should serve you well. Thinking things over TPS (as well as MAP calibration) comes to mind since the application in question uses an Electronic Throttle? In instances where an E-throttle module is present the throttle opening itself acts as the bypass rather than an actual valve. I haven't ever used the OBD-II output but if wired and configured correctly the OEM OBD-II port should work as normal. Within the software you can enable the appropriate CAN output as well as the stream being sent out to be OBD-II. The documentation shipped with your ECU or feedback from your dealer should help you validate the wiring from the ECU to the OEM OBD-II port. Looking forward to a positive resolution for you, cheers!
  18. Good day to you Matt. I'm happy that you are super enthusiastic about your investment with the Link brand. I'm sure the online community here on this forum will be more than happy to assist you along the way to ensure that your end user experience using the G4+ is the best possible. You've said a fair bit with your introduction so it's going to be difficult to give a response that hasn't missed anything. Having said this, you sound as though you are quite comfortable with the basics of automotive wiring. To add to this, the G4+ ecus have a built in output test function which allows you to verify the wiring work completed as well as the device itself. It is available in a simple on and off manner, or you can simulate a low frequency PWM signal. This will be enough to validate the devices such the fuel pump, ignition coils, injectors as well as solenoids like a boost controller actuator are working as they should. If you have specific follow up questions you may post them accordingly. I will also advise that you get the PCLink software installed to familiarize yourself with it, in particular, the help file is exceptionally written and can give great insight. You may use the help file as a search, or you may press F1 to activate the relative help documentation for an active field within the software. This can assist you with the wiring for the CAS you mentioned. I am assuming that the CAS has a Hall Effect/Optical sensor which will need a +12 volt signal with a matching ground installed. The CAS should output a signal for engine speed as well as a cylinder reference signal and these will need to go to the trigger 1 and trigger 2 inputs on the G4+ ECU. Lastly, you mentioned that there were a fair bit of spare wires left over from the allocations you made for your setup. It is possible to make use of the spare outputs to power lamp/LED bulbs as warning signals reflecting specific operational conditions of the engine. You may also use engine protection strategies through the available general purpose output tables. You may read up on this through GP output section of the help file. For help understanding EFI calibration I will openly recommend the High Performance Academy (www.hpacademy.com). You may find quite a few courses available which cater to a variety of EFI related topics. There's even a course dedicated to learning the G4+ family of Link ecus. The firmware used for the course is quite older than what we have today, but the course material is very much applicable. My apologies if I missed anything, and as I mentioned previously, please feel free to post follow up response so that you may be better assisted. Cheers!
  19. You may not always see a fault code or warning. What Scott was trying to get at was the available throttle by pass air. Even under abrupt/immediate deceleration of engine speed, the engine should have enough air to maintain a stable idle at a constant engine speed. If the engine doesn't have sufficient air through the throttle by pass then the engine will stall in an immediate manner. If keeping your foot on the throttle tenables the engine speed to remain stable at about 1000 rpm, then this hints at what I was explaining above. Also, if the engine runs richer than it needs to be with fuel then this doesn't help the situation. It would be a great idea to fit a lambda meter to the exhaust system of the engine, this will help diagnose problems like this and similar. Cheers!
  20. Good day Mapper. Apparently I was mistaken in my advisory and as a result I have ill informed Sanad, my apologies. You may not share the analog temperature channels on the Atom ECU, this is only possible with all other Link ECUs where the pull-up resistor can be disabled. Disabling the pull-up allows the signal to be shared. I myself don't practice this as I prefer to have the peace of mind knowing that my channels have been connected individually. Sanad asked about a parallel install and not best practice, however, as I previously mentioned, having his calibrator weigh in might be his best bet. Assuming his calibrator will be doing the installation. From Sanad's feedback I gathered that there was a misunderstanding with respect to what the Atom was able to manage, that's why I took the time to outline how best the available channels can be used. I hope that my perspective was helpful. Thanks for raising the point Mapper, cheers!
  21. I would advise what you are proposing, however, if you can indicate the sensors and actuators you would like the stock ECU and Atom to share I would gladly give you some feedback. Ultimately you EFI calibrator has to be comfortable with the installation because he's the one in charge of the end result you will get. In addition, to be fair, the Atom might run out of inputs and outputs to support an OEM D17 which has been turbocharged. Here's a rough breakdown of how I believe the inputs and outputs will be used 4 injector channels - all in use 1 ignition channel - supports single coil setup 3 spare ignition channels - fuel pump, rad fan and AC clutch 2 analog temps inputs - air and coolant temperature 3 analog voltage inputs - TPS, MAP & AFR/Oil Pressure/Fuel Pressure 2 digital inputs - AC request & start position/logging/high boost/non-driven wheel speed 4 auxiliary outputs - tachometer signal, switched cam (VTEC), boost solenoid, 2 wire idle control solenoid CAN channel - support for OBD-II output To be honest this setup can be a bit much for the Atom but it should be able to work well enough for what you are looking to do. The Storm will work better giving more control, but as I said, working with your calibrator's advisories may be best. Cheers!
  22. Scott is correct, there's a 50mm and a 54mm diameter disc. For easy reference you may measure the replacement disc against the OEM disc. Cheers!
  23. Good day Sanad. The Atom will need to have direct access to the TPS, MAP, injectors and ignition circuits. The AIT and ECT may be shared. What would the factory ECU be left in place for? If I can better understand the need for the factory ECU staying in place then I can better answer your question. In hindsight, the CAN output on the Atom should be able to replicate OBD-II, will this aid your effort? Cheers!
  24. Good day to you Bram. Dave is very much correct in that we would need a fair bit of feedback to answer you with more detail. However, I can completely understand where you are coming from when you say that you don't understand the listed features. I would advise that you speak with the chosen EFI calibrators as they will be able to give you a more definite response with respect to what you will need to have to meet the engine demands presently and what might come in the way of available extras. They or a Link dealer will best be able to help you directly. For your personal knowledge and understanding the present ECU product line from Link all use the same G4+ platform. With the exception of the Atom, all other ecus have on-board knock detection, 25 channels of data logging, Motorsport features and the OBD-II CAN output protocol. From there the ECUs can be simplified and differentiated based on available input channels and output channels. As you go higher in model you can expect to see a higher count for inputs and outputs, as well as a greater diversity on the types of these inputs and outputs. For example, inputs channels can cover switched signals which are simple on and off (activation switch of ALS) to digital like that of a high frequency (vehicle wheel speed/compressor wheel speed from a turbocharger) based signal. Inputs also come in the manner of transducers (pressure sensors - MAP, EBP & crank case) and thermistors (temperature sensors). Outputs can be viewed as injector control circuits, relay operated circuits (fuel pump & radiator fans) all the way through to advanced pulse width modulation controlled devices such as solenoids (boost & some idle control valves) to variable valve timing actuators or even drive-by-wire modules. I really hope that this is helping you and not confusing you. What I do for ECU sales where I am asked to either make an advisory or if I am doing the installation and calibration work myself, I normal put the project down on paper where the inputs, outputs and the specifics for the calibration work is laid out in a manner where you differentiate what is needed upfront and what is being requested as extra (would-like-to-have functionality). From there it's easy to see what ecus will be a good match, what ecus will leave the project with a loss of functionality, and what ecus will cover the project entirely with room for expansion. In theory, this should be the end user experience from an authorized dealer or support personnel. Should you have more specific questions that you will like to ask then please feel free to follow up accordingly and we will try to assist you as best as we can. Thanks for choosing the Link brand, cheers!
  25. Dave, you are bringing back memories of the old days having to setup launch control on SMCs. Come to think of it though, it never crossed my mind to setup something similar on the Atom. However, like 90dsmturbo stated, there's a viable market for it. Cheers!
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