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Everything posted by Steve

  1. If i remember correctly you cant see oil pressure as its not really an obd2 pid. But if you set up a good safety around oilpressure in the ecu you are golden anyways. Sounds like this should work out for you. Btw its much faster than the cheap ebay adaptors out there.
  2. I dont use it now (neither link ecu or obd2 over bluetooth) but have had it in the past. I was happy with it for what it was. I used it for when i needed to watch some data live for some reason and didnt have my laptop with me. Just flipped up the phone and launched an app. What are you planning? Thinking of replacing the entire dash or just want to use it for "gauges"?
  3. Yes android. G4+ works with obd2 so yes. As for lag there wil always be SOME. But its not bad..
  4. Obdlink MX+ Is a pretty darn good one
  5. You could most probably benefit from better resolution at small throttleopenings in your fuelmap. Instead of 0 ,5 ,10 and so on you should space them closer down low. Like 0, 2, 4, 6, 10, 15 and so on. There are BIG changes in the airflow at small openings requiering finer adjustments of the fueling
  6. Looks like you are right. Just seemed odd for ECT to drop 15 degrees over 10 seconds. But i dont see abrupt changes when he cranks it (which usually shows ground issues like a sore thumb), So it seems to be alright after all. My bad.
  7. Look at the coolant temp line in one my screenshots. Thats not normal for coolant to vary that much, that fast. In the last one at the bottom you can see the warmup enrichment come on line giving up to 10% extra fuel because of this
  8. Try lowering the lockout rpm to say 400 and see if it changes anything. But the sensor readings would be high on my prioritylist to fix
  9. Ilias. You seem to have some groundissues affecting your sensors. Look at the ECT as an example Also your 4 thoot triggerwheel doesnt seem to play nice. Also see the warmup enrichment going active again because of the sensor readings. Are your fuelpressuresensor hooked up? The sensor is static. Your lambdasensor seems to of line now and then. Like where the marker is in the next pic. Also idle target is set to 1200rpm and your idle rpm lockout is set to 800rpm. Which ads up to 2000 rpm
  10. You wont. You will not notice any lag in a dbw unless it is programmed to have it. Period
  11. I fabbed a simple bracket and bolted it to my ac pump bracket. Drilled and tapped. I have also seen it bolted to the other side of the oilpump on a simple bracket. See if you can find pictures by member lostsoul here or at the aus300zx forum.
  12. I got mine before Ross started making it for the VG. That only happend after i had a "campaign" going to open peoples eyes in the z community about this problem. Mine is actually one of the "Race dampers" from ATI that i custom ordered directly from ATI. Took me 6 months to get it and cost me about 1200 usd at the time. You are better of with Ross. They do not make 60-2 setups, no. Sensor brackets you are going to have to fab up yourself. No premade kits for sale as far as i know. Yet. You dont NEED a new CAS pin but it doesnt hurt either. No benefit from it though. Other than longer life i suppose. Stock belt is fine. Yeah Viritual Dyno is useless with the stock CAS. Been there done that.
  13. Haha. As i understand it the stock ecus dont code them like the aftermarket ones do. Ie they dont read the 360 slots as position the way one would think. Its pretty trick as i understand it. And i guess it works good "enough" for stock cars as they was intended to be. But as soon as you start modifying stuff all goes down the drain. But i agree, putting it at the end of a cam connected to the crank via a rubberband seems somewhat... out. I`ve heard about several tuners that simply refuse to tune them unless triggered properly
  14. Just googled this topic to find some pictures to compare before and after and found a post with some pictures made by... well myself https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/webinar-questions/show/095-choosing-a-trigger-method
  15. Yes Miguel, thats my take on it all. You can use the single "cam tooth" on the disk as camsynk yes. Thats what im doing myself. Stevie, seems the WPS500 got a responsetime of 100 usec. So quite a step up from 1ms. https://www.picoauto.com/download/documents/datasheets/MM073.en_WPS500X.pdf Yeah Western Union really does not sit well with me. To be honest im no so sure high RPM tests are very usefull anyway. Exept of course on a LIVE cylinder. But thats another topic. Would be awsome if the ECU manufacturers implemented that sort of thing, However they would need to drasticly up their samplerate for it to shine. A bit of sidetrack. Plex-tunings bigger dash can read and log in cylinder pressure transducers. Which is absolutely awsome!. No experience with it myself though. Just drool over it from time to time... EDIT: Miguel, to expand a little bit. When my own car was at its worst, and i decided there was no way around a cranktrigger, i could also feel it in the car. It was like power- less power - power - less power - power. I didnt loose "all" power, but from the looks of your logs, neither do you. I could actually also see it on my tachoneedle jumping around a little (there is a limit to how fast it can react though).
  16. Wow. I have never seen that software before. Looks pretty cool. The pico software wont do all that automatically. It wont lay it all out in plain "text" for you, rather you will gonna have to interpret the data you collect yourself. So i guess you will have to understand "yourself" what is or should be going on. There are softwares/scripts/addons (or whatever you want to call it) available that helps the process though Yep its pretty pricey the WPS. I would love to have one or two more but at the pricepoint its at its pretty far down the priority list.
  17. It helps with the erratic signals. It really just masks the problem and steady the moving around on your ignitiontable. The only thing that really fixes it is a true crankfitted trigger. Like the one from Ross performance
  18. There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  19. Dont want ground leads flying all over the place. Search youtube for ground hygiene and both Andy Whyatt and Andy Whittle.
  20. Yeah... With those downpipes and an open after them there should be no restrictions to speak of anyways. So i guess we are ruling that out now. So where does that leave us. In the logs i saw so far i dont think i actually saw the lambda go lean anywhere, which it should do if there really was a missfire (unburnt air passing thorugh the exhaust). Also all the logs showed a picture perfect RPM line which to me and what my experience with the CAS tells me there is heavy filtering involved. I would still love to see an unfiltered logfile that shows HOW bad/or little scatter there really is on your car. Thing is that no matter how much filtering is applied, the craziness is still going on physically between the CAS and the crank. I think im back at my original thought when i saw your post. Severe timing scatter.
  21. Haha, yes that transoducer isnt very helpfull if you want to see details or meassure degrees or anything lke that. That said. Here is a few shots from your 7200rpm open exhaust file. Early in the log before reving it. The line represents 0 psi and you can clearly see the vacuumparts and the little rise on the exhauststroke (that may or may not be normal). In the next picture i cant make anything out really. its at max rpm and either the sensor cant keep up with ANYTHING or there is actually positive pressure all the time Line is still at 0 psi On this two last ones though where the rpms are coming down but not stil at idle (i changed the scale a bit to show it clearer). One line is still at 0 and the other is at max measured vacuum. (-5.6 ish psi). On the bottom one i moved it to the max pressure in the exhaust stroke. and it shows over 8 psi So obvious question now; do you still have the PRE-cats on the car?? Regarding timing it should ot affect it as the cas is on the exhaust and vtc on intake. Max pressure should still be on tdc. I have personaly measures over 7 degrees fluctuation between cranktrigger and camtrigger on my car. Food for thought. Yeah happy x-mas bud!
  22. Have not looked at the log yet but... Check if you have the same voltagedrop at the feed wire on the injector itself. Could be that your ecu ground isnt good enough and you get a voltagedrop seen only by the ecu. The ecu would then up the pw on false data making it go rich
  23. Use differential fuelpressure as an axis. Way easier than trying to wrap your head around pressure
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