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Steve

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Everything posted by Steve

  1. Steve

    Tomei Rb28 Pro Cams

    Fudge the cal 4 calibration to make the ecu read the same as the gauge. What you are seeing is ground offset. Maybe the ecu and the gauge are grounded at different places? This is one reason why getting a CAN based lambda unit is such great idea.
  2. Steve

    new GDI ecu

    They are listed as an Emtron dealer. That was as close to local as i could steer you was all...
  3. Steve

    new GDI ecu

    There is Dtech motorsport in NZ. Otherwise you are fresh out of luck...
  4. Steve

    new GDI ecu

    Well Link cant as of now. But the one i mentioned can... as well as syvecs, motec and bosch motorsport
  5. Press printscreen. Paste it into paint and save it. Convert to pdf.
  6. Put up your knocksettings Mike
  7. Steve

    new GDI ecu

    Dacerx, Contact Emtronaustralia with your needs...
  8. Steve

    Newbie questions

    The xtreme does not have built in controller. I would rather steer you towards Links own lambda to can unit over the Innovate one. Fury and Thunder (and maybe one more) got built in controllers though...
  9. Steve

    adjustable boost switch

    Just remember about tractioncontrol. The digital inputs can only read up to 500Hz. Depending on your absrings (if thats what you are using) you might need to get some device that cuts down the thootcount to get within this limit. Vems sells one. The thunder have a limit of 6000+Hz though..
  10. You cant Use vts on a link, you need to use pclink. You just move one file over from the vts folder to the pclink folder
  11. Thats the "mixture map". Download and install the vipec software from the same era. Then find the layout file in its folders. Copy it over to links folder and replace the old one. Hepp! But beware you will need to set up your layout again as this will set it back to default...
  12. It is. Just make sure you get plugs with the correct keying.
  13. Maybe the relay is ruined. They dont like to be hooked up the wrong way.
  14. Boost target is set like that to make for a more predictive drive. No point in full boost when you have only say 50% throttle. The pedal is your torque demand switch and that target table makes for a more natural behaviour.. Of course the rest of the boostcontrol needs to be tuned correctly... Edit. Of course im talking about the principle of setting the boost target table up over tps. Not the actual numbers in it.
  15. Also as the 450's does move alot of fuel i suggest you pwm your main pump
  16. Reason for 3D table is there is different deadtimes for different differential fuel pressure. The rest of his 3D table can be found on ID`s website.. Looks like the reason for dropping fuelpressure can be found in the fuelpump speed table. Looks to be at 45% DC at the lowest part of the pressure. This would also explain the very high VE numbers it the map. For some reason Differential Fuel pressure has flatlined at 302 kpa so it doesnt seem like the fuel pressure correction is working like it should. (Where the ECU automaticly corrects for changes in the differential fuel presure). As for the original question.. If your idle target is 980 try to adjust the throttleblades so that it will idle at say 750-800 rpm with idle control turned OFF. That way it will always have enough air to idle at al least that rpm and let the ISC valve do the rest to reach your target. Other than that i havent gone very thourough through the logfile yet to see if anything else sticks out. EDIT: Fuel system type is set to MAP referenced! Set it to FP sensor and the correction should work. And prepare for a retune my friend
  17. Whats the partnumber of the version with a pigtail? (Not a connector directly on the sensor)
  18. I blew four 4.9 sensors last season (its winter in my world right now). However im currently using a different brand ECU but thats beside the point. Lets call it X. It got Bosch controllers built in it though. I narrowed it down to beeing a heater problem and blowing sensors like this got me a little puzzeled really. Cause after all the ECU are using Bosch controllers to control Bosch sensors, so you would think there would be no problems at all. I meen you would think Bosch knew how to handle the heating of their own sensors. That was until Andy Wyatt (the founder of Adaptronics) made me aware that infact it is NOT the Bosch controller that decides how heating is controlled but the ECU manufacturer. In other words it isnt hardcoded into the controller but a function of settings in the ECU. Then it all made a little more sense to me. OEM`s are mainly using 4.9`s and in those applications they lasts for years and years for what its worth... X have now fabbed up a new firmware with different heating algoritm for me to test when the next season starts. Well see how it goes.
  19. I pm`d you my email earlier...
  20. Be sure to let us know what the was. For future reference...
  21. All is not lost thought. You can run a unit like this one https://shop.vems.hu/catalog/hall-p-162.html That will chop down the trigger events to something more managable or this http://www.centrodyne.com/en/products/vss-divider or this http://www.racingsolutions.com/products/motec-dmc-d-converter-wheel-speed.html There are plenty options out there... I suspect it will either stop reading higher or the signal goes erratic. Dont know though. Sure Simon will chime in on this one.
  22. What you need to remember is that other than the Thunder the digital inputs are limited to 500hz. Thunder can take something over 6000hz Do some math where you figure out tire revolutions pr second at your maximum speed and you will find you answer.
  23. Bout learning... Hpacademy.com Is a great place to start. The g4 is also one of the ecus they use alot. Should fit you perfectly.
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