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Hi Dave, Here is a drawing for how I have hooked up the Boost Solenoid hose by using Internal Wastegate: Here is a link to the Boost Solenoid I am using: Boost Solenoid I will fit a pipe to do the back pressure test, but for that I need to figure out how to get more than 14 psi of boost.

Hi Dave, The part number is on the plastic bag the MAP sensor was in. The MAP sensor is a cylindrical unit with 1/8 npt, and it is screwed directly into the inlet plenum. I think the color is greenish. I calibrated the MAP sensor after the changes and saved it to the ECU. There is a small note on the zip lock bag with the Volt/PSI: 0 PSI = 0.500V / 75 PSI = 4.500V.

Hi Dave, I changed the cal table for the Vi-pec MAP sensor as you posted, and after that the AFR is in a different dimension. On cruising I got 10 to 12 AFR and on high load it peaks up to 18 AFR, so I only have to drive it safely for now. I didn't manage to do anything else today because I had some brake problems on the car. The bolts on the caliper broke off on the highway. Luckily I managed to pull of the highway and out of the road before the last bolt broke off and leaked brake fluid. Note to self: Don't buy cheap big brake kit for road use. I had K-sport 8 piston big brake kit. Good thing I kept the stock ones around.

Hi Dave, I will see if I can find a heat resistant hose I can use for the back pressure and see what it is. I got a wideband sensor in the car and it is connected to the ECU. I don't know why the wastegate is set to 100% duty, but it clearly does not work. Here is the dyno chart for looks:

Hi Dave, Yes, I wish to run 28 psi of boost. But the local tuner said that I got backpressure at 25.5 psi of boost, so there was no point pushing any further above this. I will install a boost gauge to monitor the back pressure to verify it. The Vi-Pec MAP sensor P/No is #VMAP5 "Vi-pec Map sensor -5Bar Ti". I am using an internal wastegate 15 psi to 32 psi: Ebay Wastegate actuator When I did the test with removed vacuum hose to the wastegate actuator, the boost gauge displayed 29 psi and the MAP in iVTS displayed 300+ kPa. And I could really feel the cars power.

Hi Dave, The engine worked great with the PCL file. Just had to adjust fuel a little and it was fine. I had the car at the dyno on friday for a final tune, but I think they forgot to save the boost control. The turbo won't do more than 1 bar (14.5 psi) of boost. When I disconnect the wastegate hose I get more than 2 bar (29 psi) of boost (just for testing purpose). The MAP sensor shows 176 kPa and the boost gauge shows 1 bar (14.5 psi). I tried with two different boost gauges, installed the vacuum hose before and after the throttle body, with the same result. I have now changed the MAP sensor to the one sold by Vi-PEC (5 bar TI) but I can't find it in the dropdown menu. Here is a log for the test and the final pcl: Shadow final PCL and log.rar

Hi Dave, Been at the garage today and solved the problem with the car revving to high. It was a leak between the upper and lower plenum. After I sealed it and started the engine everything was fine! Took the car out for a drive and summonme adjusted the fuel while I was driving and it was all good Had some issues with the battery not charging, but I will figure it out tomorrow. I will come back to you when I have done some more tests and tuning. Thank you for all the help mate!

Hi Dave, I just got home from the garage now, and have done some few tests. I did the ECCS test, and the ECCS widest slot said 16 degrees after I cranked the engine. Also used the timing light (between the coil and spark plug) and it was 15 degees. I didn't do anything with the trigger offset. Not sure how it works, so didn't dare trying. The engine starts at first try without adjusting the fuel main. At idle speed it revs up to 2900 rpm on cold engine and after the water temp gets to around 75 degree Celsius it start to chase between 2400 - 2900 rpm. I turned the car off/on and the rpm was at 800 - 900. I tried to adjust the master fuel up and down, but the engine starts to rev higher when I decrease it, and almost choking when I increase it. The AFR is at 10.x all the time even when I increase/decrease the master fuel ms. The car is so rich at idle speed so there is big white steam cloud coming from the oil catch tank. At the moment the car works best as a mobile distillery. The oil catch tank is filled with pure alcohol. Are you able to help me on teamviewer/skype at around 7 p.m at your local time?

Hi Dave, Thank you so much! I will follow your guide and do some testing I will PM you my email address. It is possible to post zip files btw. By calibrating the triggers, you mean the CAS? I hope you get well soon mate.

Hi Dave, It would be cool to setup some CAN BUS features for later use, maybe I will get a dashlogger later at some point. I don't think I need automatic starter motor control, but this is parameters we can play with later? We have rented an airstrip to race on next weekend, so I'm in desperate need of the PCL soon so I can get it to the dyno.

Hi Dave, I can't wait to do a test run soon I have ordered a second expansion connector. And yes, there are 2 connector sockets on the board. I'm not sure of what we can do with the CAN BUS/OBD2 at this point. Maybe implement the PLX devices if that is possible. The S14 did not come with OBD2, but with a Nissan consult port.

Hi Dave, It is good that you feel much better. We started to get really worried for you. How soon do you think it will be finished?

Hi Dave, Sad to hear that you are in pain. Lets hope they will fix you, so you get well soon. Can't wait to get the PCL file I am looking forward to drive my car again.

Hi Dave, Is MGP readings in INHG? I'm getting confused by all the different units :roll: The easiest unit for me to read is Bar, but that is not an option here.

Awesome! OK mate. I need some rest as well. It is midnight here.

Cool, I love gadgets and extra features The purpose of the car is cruising, racing and drag. Not so much drifting.

Got 3 spares on the expansion connector. 2 Digital inputs and 1 An Temp. The PNP have 2 expansion connectors, but I got only 1 plugged in. Need to buy the second if that is necessary.

Hi Dave, I am using the expansion connector 1 for the MAP, AFR and IAT. AnV5 - AEM MAP AnV6 - PLX AFR AnTemp3 - AEM IAT

Hi Dave, The engine is a Black Top 97 model 200SX S14a. It is the short header connector.

Hi Dave, OK, that is good

Hi Dave, Here is the list of inputs/outputs: AUX1 - AC Fan AUX2 - Tacho AUX3 - AC Clutch AUX4 - Temp and boost W/lamp AUX5 - Fuel Pump AUX6 - AUX7 - O2 Heater AUX8 - Purge INJ7 - ISC Solenoid INJ8 - Boost Solenoid AnV1 - NB Oxy AnV2 - TPS AnV5 - AEM MAP AnV6 - PLX AFR AnTemp1 - Engine coolant Temp AnTemp3 - AEM IAT DI1 - AC Request DI2 - Start Position DI3 - Power Steer DI4 - Neutral DI5 - LR Wheel Speed The ECU still state it is i88 top board, and since I use INJ 8 for boost solenoid this must be correct.

I can install teamviewer on the laptop, that is no problem

Hi Dave, I only need a high boost and a low boost setting. The wheel alignment is pretty good along with Toyo R1R tires, so I don't need gear dependent boost levels at this hp. Using teamviewer would be awesome while mapping. The ECU I bought was supposed to be an i44 plug-in, but I saw also in the help file it said i88. I updated the firmware last night to 5.0.3 (The update went smoothly). I was up late last night (here) doing some work on the car and answering you Here you can see our local time: http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/norway/oslo I will drive back to the garage now and send you the latest PCL file. All the wiring is set up (expect from launch control button), I got an inductive timing light and a wideband AFR sensor/gauge.

Hi Dave, Nice guide I am using the factory CAS for now. The plan was to use 2 trigger sensors. 1 at the crankshaft pulley and 1 at the cam for sync, but we didn't finish up designing/modding the parts. This is what we did using a inductive timing light and rotating the CAS. But that wasn't enough. That's all we knew how to do with the Power-FC tho. We will follow this guide, but can we do this without the proper injection settings? I ran the Precision turbo last year at 25,5 psi of boost during the whole season. Both on and off track. It worked pretty good After we did some boost setting tests, I forgot to tighten the hose clamp on the actuator... Never been in a car with that much power before! I stopped fast to fix it again tho. That is not healthy for the turbo! I find it a little odd that Precision didn't gave me any straight answers at all. Here is the chat: Precision Facebook

Here is the answer from Precision: