Shadow
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Posts posted by Shadow
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Hi Dave,
The part number is on the plastic bag the MAP sensor was in.
The MAP sensor is a cylindrical unit with 1/8 npt, and it is screwed directly into the inlet plenum. I think the color is greenish.
I calibrated the MAP sensor after the changes and saved it to the ECU.
There is a small note on the zip lock bag with the Volt/PSI: 0 PSI = 0.500V / 75 PSI = 4.500V.
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Hi Dave,
I changed the cal table for the Vi-pec MAP sensor as you posted, and after that the AFR is in a different dimension. On cruising I got 10 to 12 AFR and on high load it peaks up to 18 AFR, so I only have to drive it safely for now.
I didn't manage to do anything else today because I had some brake problems on the car. The bolts on the caliper broke off on the highway. Luckily I managed to pull of the highway and out of the road before the last bolt broke off and leaked brake fluid. Note to self: Don't buy cheap big brake kit for road use. I had K-sport 8 piston big brake kit. Good thing I kept the stock ones around.
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Hi Dave,
Yes, I wish to run 28 psi of boost. But the local tuner said that I got backpressure at 25.5 psi of boost, so there was no point pushing any further above this.
I will install a boost gauge to monitor the back pressure to verify it.
The Vi-Pec MAP sensor P/No is #VMAP5 "Vi-pec Map sensor -5Bar Ti".
I am using an internal wastegate 15 psi to 32 psi: Ebay Wastegate actuator
When I did the test with removed vacuum hose to the wastegate actuator, the boost gauge displayed 29 psi and the MAP in iVTS displayed 300+ kPa. And I could really feel the cars power.
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Hi Dave,
The engine worked great with the PCL file. Just had to adjust fuel a little and it was fine.
I had the car at the dyno on friday for a final tune, but I think they forgot to save the boost control.
The turbo won't do more than 1 bar (14.5 psi) of boost. When I disconnect the wastegate hose I get more than 2 bar (29 psi) of boost (just for testing purpose).
The MAP sensor shows 176 kPa and the boost gauge shows 1 bar (14.5 psi). I tried with two different boost gauges, installed the vacuum hose before and after the throttle body, with the same result.
I have now changed the MAP sensor to the one sold by Vi-PEC (5 bar TI) but I can't find it in the dropdown menu.
Here is a log for the test and the final pcl:
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Hi Dave,
Been at the garage today and solved the problem with the car revving to high. It was a leak between the upper and lower plenum. After I sealed it and started the engine everything was fine!
Took the car out for a drive and summonme adjusted the fuel while I was driving and it was all good
Had some issues with the battery not charging, but I will figure it out tomorrow.
I will come back to you when I have done some more tests and tuning.
Thank you for all the help mate!
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Hi Dave,
I just got home from the garage now, and have done some few tests.
I did the ECCS test, and the ECCS widest slot said 16 degrees after I cranked the engine.
Also used the timing light (between the coil and spark plug) and it was 15 degees.
I didn't do anything with the trigger offset. Not sure how it works, so didn't dare trying.
The engine starts at first try without adjusting the fuel main.
At idle speed it revs up to 2900 rpm on cold engine and after the water temp gets to around 75 degree Celsius it start to chase between 2400 - 2900 rpm. I turned the car off/on and the rpm was at 800 - 900.
I tried to adjust the master fuel up and down, but the engine starts to rev higher when I decrease it, and almost choking when I increase it. The AFR is at 10.x all the time even when I increase/decrease the master fuel ms.
The car is so rich at idle speed so there is big white steam cloud coming from the oil catch tank. At the moment the car works best as a mobile distillery. The oil catch tank is filled with pure alcohol.
Are you able to help me on teamviewer/skype at around 7 p.m at your local time?
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Hi Dave,
Thank you so much!
I will follow your guide and do some testing
I will PM you my email address. It is possible to post zip files btw.
By calibrating the triggers, you mean the CAS?
I hope you get well soon mate.
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Hi Dave,
It would be cool to setup some CAN BUS features for later use, maybe I will get a dashlogger later at some point.
I don't think I need automatic starter motor control, but this is parameters we can play with later?
We have rented an airstrip to race on next weekend, so I'm in desperate need of the PCL soon so I can get it to the dyno.
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Hi Dave,
I can't wait to do a test run soon
I have ordered a second expansion connector. And yes, there are 2 connector sockets on the board.
I'm not sure of what we can do with the CAN BUS/OBD2 at this point. Maybe implement the PLX devices if that is possible. The S14 did not come with OBD2, but with a Nissan consult port.
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Hi Dave,
It is good that you feel much better. We started to get really worried for you.
How soon do you think it will be finished?
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Hi Dave,
Sad to hear that you are in pain. Lets hope they will fix you, so you get well soon.
Can't wait to get the PCL file
I am looking forward to drive my car again.
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Hi Dave,
Is MGP readings in INHG?
I'm getting confused by all the different units :roll:
The easiest unit for me to read is Bar, but that is not an option here.
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Awesome!
OK mate. I need some rest as well. It is midnight here.
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Cool, I love gadgets and extra features
The purpose of the car is cruising, racing and drag. Not so much drifting.
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Got 3 spares on the expansion connector. 2 Digital inputs and 1 An Temp.
The PNP have 2 expansion connectors, but I got only 1 plugged in. Need to buy the second if that is necessary.
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Hi Dave,
I am using the expansion connector 1 for the MAP, AFR and IAT.
AnV5 - AEM MAP
AnV6 - PLX AFR
AnTemp3 - AEM IAT
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Hi Dave,
The engine is a Black Top 97 model 200SX S14a.
It is the short header connector.
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Hi Dave,
OK, that is good
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Hi Dave,
Here is the list of inputs/outputs:
AUX1 - AC Fan
AUX2 - Tacho
AUX3 - AC Clutch
AUX4 - Temp and boost W/lamp
AUX5 - Fuel Pump
AUX6 -
AUX7 - O2 Heater
AUX8 - Purge
INJ7 - ISC Solenoid
INJ8 - Boost Solenoid
AnV1 - NB Oxy
AnV2 - TPS
AnV5 - AEM MAP
AnV6 - PLX AFR
AnTemp1 - Engine coolant Temp
AnTemp3 - AEM IAT
DI1 - AC Request
DI2 - Start Position
DI3 - Power Steer
DI4 - Neutral
DI5 - LR Wheel Speed
The ECU still state it is i88 top board, and since I use INJ 8 for boost solenoid this must be correct.
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I can install teamviewer on the laptop, that is no problem
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Hi Dave,
I only need a high boost and a low boost setting. The wheel alignment is pretty good along with Toyo R1R tires, so I don't need gear dependent boost levels at this hp.
Using teamviewer would be awesome while mapping.
The ECU I bought was supposed to be an i44 plug-in, but I saw also in the help file it said i88.
I updated the firmware last night to 5.0.3 (The update went smoothly).
I was up late last night (here) doing some work on the car and answering you
Here you can see our local time: http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/norway/oslo
I will drive back to the garage now and send you the latest PCL file.
All the wiring is set up (expect from launch control button), I got an inductive timing light and a wideband AFR sensor/gauge.
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Hi Dave,
Nice guide
I am using the factory CAS for now.
The plan was to use 2 trigger sensors. 1 at the crankshaft pulley and 1 at the cam for sync, but we didn't finish up designing/modding the parts.
Step one, remove number 1 ignition coil and fit a HT LEAD (SPARK PLUG CABLE) into the coil and the other end onto the No1 sparkplug.Attach the timing light to the plug lead.
DO NOT USE THE IDUCTION LOOP AT THE REAR OF THE ENGINE OR THE COIL DRIVER WIRES THEMSELVES.
Using the sparkplug HT LEAD METHOD is by far the most accurate.
Also avoid using DIAL BACK TYPE TIMING LIGHTS,
What I do next is loosen the 3 CAS mounting bolts , i rotate the CAS so that the bolts are centre to the slots on the CAS housing.
I tighten the bolts up and never touch them again.
This is what we did using a inductive timing light and rotating the CAS. But that wasn't enough. That's all we knew how to do with the Power-FC tho.
We will follow this guide, but can we do this without the proper injection settings?
I ran the Precision turbo last year at 25,5 psi of boost during the whole season. Both on and off track. It worked pretty good
After we did some boost setting tests, I forgot to tighten the hose clamp on the actuator... Never been in a car with that much power before! I stopped fast to fix it again tho. That is not healthy for the turbo!
I find it a little odd that Precision didn't gave me any straight answers at all.
Here is the chat: Precision Facebook
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Here is the answer from Precision:
Precision Turbo & EngineHi Niklas,
We do not have compressor maps available for our turbochargers as they can only show theoretical performance. We spend our R&D in real-world scenarios so that we can apply that knowledge to producing the best turbos possible. If you need help in selecting a turbo, please call us at 219-996-7832.
Thank you!
Thank you for the answer. I already got the PTE 5128 and I want to run it at 2 bar of boost, but I just wanted to make sure if this was in it's efficiency range or not. The engine is a SR20DET.Precision Turbo & EngineThat may be a bit much for the that turbo.
AEM MAP and IAT Sensor
in Vi-PEC i Series
Posted
Hi Dave,
Here is a drawing for how I have hooked up the Boost Solenoid hose by using Internal Wastegate:
Here is a link to the Boost Solenoid I am using: Boost Solenoid
I will fit a pipe to do the back pressure test, but for that I need to figure out how to get more than 14 psi of boost.