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paulr33

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paulr33 last won the day on July 4

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  1. paulr33

    programmable logic

    I didn’t have any issues with speed and always had fast updates on my display. The problem with my setup was when I needed to change something on the display I had to put it all apart and plug it into the PC seperately to update the 4D systems screen and then the arduino code seperately and also the screen would drop out and flicker because the wiring was always loose from the plugs. The plex usdm is a commercial solution and I can change the scenes and layouts and customise to my hearts content while sitting in the car via USB on the side of the display.
  2. paulr33

    programmable logic

    Good work. I ended up going for a plex usdm but making the arduino CAN display did help me learn it all and how it works which was good fun
  3. I still think you’ll find the tablet a half bake setup where to have to press buttons every time or wake it up each time or load software. Hope it all goes well but from making my own CAN display to using an as-built one (the plex uSDM) the commercial product is a million times better. Means I can focus more on tuning the car and not troubleshooting display issues
  4. The problem you’ll find is that it will eventually cost you more in connectors and other bits and you’ll have to solve a heap of problems such as standby, powering on etc and customisation. i made my own CANBUS display thinking it was going to be cheap ended up about $300+ and it still had issues and the plex uSDM 102 is $750 AUD (non pro version) so stuffing around with a tablet or display is pointless. Have you tried reading data from a tablet at an angle in your car while driving? I bet you can’t even read it based on the angle and display type. just trying to save you from re-inventing the wheel
  5. Plex usdm 102 and be done with it, no need for any displays or tricks. Just raw CAN and fully customisable. I did a thread on it the Vipec section
  6. Is there a recommended rpm I should be travelling at when I do gear ratio calc in each gear? Evo 8 runs 6 speed close ratio and currently I get quiet a bit of “gear 0” in my logs. I’ll re do all calcs in every gear from scratch, I was thinking 3500rpm in every gear when I do calibrate ? also for the onboard boost control is there a specific solenoid you recommend? I have an eBoost2 and want to use per-gear control so can I re-use that solenoid or should I get a new Vipec compatible one? The wire to the ecu “aux 2” on my v44 evolution 9 is this a Switched ground to the solenoid?
  7. ok ive found the issue, its how its calculating per cyclinder and the overall aggregate, see below. it says global level is 0 but it shows numbers per cyclinder still ill do some work on this tonight and see what the issue is, thanks for your help
  8. see attach 40hz log from my car tonight. the log data pattern for knock follows engine load so i think the sensor is working, but again it still shows the data pattern where in one cell its 0 knock level then the next cell its almost at the max range, i.e Section time: 98.225 - knock level global: 0 Section time: 98.25 - knock level global: 620 Thanks for your help Log 22-03-19 9;03;34 pm.zip
  9. thanks , i think i have a better picture of it now, so basically log at the highest possible rate (40hz) then use that to build a knock map of what the engine looks like under good health without detonation
  10. Out of curiosity I tried gain level 2 but with noise cancellation and the level appeared the same so I’ll just disable knock control
  11. from the manual Later model vehicles (2000 onwards) may have difficultly operating with the Internal knock detection circuitry. This is due to the use of "2nd Harmonic" knock sensors that some manufactures are factory fitting. There are two solutions to this problem: 1. Contact your nearest Vi-PEC dealer for the purchase of an after-market knock sensor. I am trying to use the factory 4g63 sensor but happy to replace with an aftermarket unit if someone can tell me what sensor will work with the link knockblock and what sensor settings to select on the box, i.e FREQ setting
  12. see attached tune and .log file. see these section times section time 694.9 in the log section time 922.8 in the log tune.zip
  13. before changing anything i would look at the idle control setup and idle functions. the online help covers how to set up "closed loop" idle control, do this first and then when its stable check out open loop idle control. from memory on a turbo engine, map is the recommended axis (again check the help online in VTS or link software)
  14. is it the knock block noise cancelling mode that is causing that see-saw affect of the knock "level"? my box is set to FREQ level C and gain is 2 which im certains is for evo lancer 13khz with noise cancelling
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