Jump to content

Adamw

Moderators
  • Content Count

    5,551
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    305

Adamw last won the day on January 24

Adamw had the most liked content!

About Adamw

  • Rank
    Tech Support (past)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female

Recent Profile Visitors

6,382 profile views
  1. yep looks good to me. Check your trigger offset is still ok and you will be winning.
  2. Adamw

    Can message id

    You are posting in the G4 section. The G4 only had very basic CAN configuration, you can select from any of the pre-configured streams and you can assign any ID and bit rate you like to those, but that is about the extent of what you can do.
  3. Set it to semi-sequential will give you the same set-up as before.
  4. How far out are you talking? What was PC Link reading compared to what you believed the real temp should be? Just to confirm the sensor is correct, can you measure its resistance when the engine is cold/room temperature, the delphi sensors should be about 3500ohms at 20deg C.
  5. You have CAN 1 turned off in the CAN set up screen. It needs to be set to user defined, 1Mb bit rate and set one of the channels to Link CAN lambda, And although not actually necessary to specify the ID, I always like to enter 950 as the ID so it is reserved. So, it should look something like this:
  6. Adamw

    Can't connect to ECU

    Sounds like you have done everything correct. I'll just make sure you have nothing plugged in to the CAN/Comm port below the USB port - this can mess with usb comms if connected at the same time. This doesnt sound quite right, depending on the background lighting I would generally consider the LED is reasonably bright. If it were me, the next thing I would try is remove it from the car and power it up on the bench with a couple of test leads. Just to eliminate a bad ground or similar. All it needs to go live is +12V on pin A5 and Ground on A34.
  7. Adamw

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    Is this a WRX V5/6 car/ecu? The ecu hold power needs to be on Inj drive 6 for it to work. The output was already assigned correctly in your map above but you have the keep alive time set to zero.
  8. Adamw

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    Without this the ECU will turn off as soon as ign is turned off so the stepper cant re-zero itself. This means next start up it will not be in the position the ECU believes it to be and will mess up idle control a lot. So this is the first thing that needs to be fixed before we can really diagnose if there is an idle problem. As per Ducies advice, 5 seconds will do. Do us another log after changing this. Edit, added later: In both places it nearly stalled the fan had just turned on as it came down to idle, Your fan step is set to 70 (crazy number?) but the idle valve only changed by about 3 steps - did you change this setting after the fact? Your fan is turning on/off a lot so I would set the hysteresis higher so that doesnt happen as often. You will want to set the fan step properly. It looks like overrun fuel cut is also playing a part. I would either turn it off temporarily to see how much it is interfering or bump up the highlighted cells to about 1800RPM.
  9. Is this the Link "CANPCB" cable? Is it plugged into CAN 1 or CAN 2? Do you have anything else connected to the bus? Can you attach a copy of the tune.
  10. The teeth on the crank are 30deg apart so to center the cam tooth between them you would need to move the cam tooth 15 crank degrees or 7 cam degrees. Sync needs to be on the cam for sequential. You will notice the cam tooth is roughly centered in the FSM pic so something has changed on yours, if it has adjustable cam pulleys that will be plenty to fix it, it doesnt matter which way you move it (you will need to check trigger offset afterwards as ign timing may change depending on which way you go).
  11. It would be pretty unusual to have a single wire sensor connected to the ecu. Single wire sensors are usually only for a temp gauge. Are you sure there is not another sensor somewhere?
  12. Ok, the problem with your trigger is shown below. Notice the cam tooth crosses zero volts at exactly the same time as a crank tooth crosses zero (where my yellow cursor is). This is very bad, it means as the cam tooth bounces either side of that crank edge due to cam belt slap etc. your ignition timing will suddenly shift by 30 degrees. So you could potentially have 30 deg more advance at random times which probably wont end well. What you have to do is move either the crank wheel or cam tooth so that the cam edge crosses zero roughly halfway between two crank edges. Thanks to my photoshop mastery, pic below is roughly how you want it to look; notice the cam falling edge zero crossing (purple dotted line) is roughly centered between two crank falling edge zero crossings (yellow dotted lines). And the official help file explanation which shows the aim is to be anywhere within that 50% zone between teeth:
  13. Correct, it will never go to zero. It will sit at the sum of the main target table + idle base position + start up step. 7-15% would be pretty normal pre start position.
  14. Yes, get the ECU back to Link HQ in NZ for testing. It has a lifetime warranty so you might as well take advantage of it. They have a burn-in tester for testing the ECU's hot and cold, if that doesnt show up anything there are a few other tricks they can do such as heating and flexing the PCB while connected to the test rig.
×
×
  • Create New...