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Adamw

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Adamw last won the day on December 3

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  1. G- is the trigger ground, this needs to be connected to one of the G4+ "Ground out" or "Shield/Gnd" pins.
  2. Your symptoms seem to suggest a trigger issue but it is pretty difficult to diagnose with no logging etc. I think you are going to need to get someone involved that has an oscilloscope etc to do some diagnosis.
  3. Adamw

    Mitsubishi 3000GT

    No, Link dont make a plug-in ECU for the GTO. I believe some of the Mk1 models use an ECU very similar to the Evo1-3 so it may be possible to use the Evo ECU with some small modifications but you would need to find a dealer that knows the differences well. I dont know for sure but you could try Brands Hatch Performance in the UK, I think I remember them doing one.
  4. Use Aux 3 & 4 for the vanos solenoids as per below. Set both to Inlet L/H, 50Hz. The cam position sensor can go to DI 1-4. Also, I think the factory connectors on the vanos solenoids have diodes in them and they need to be removed, usually just chop off the connectors and use something common like a deustch DTM or similar.
  5. If your is the USA S50 version then it should have the Bosch M3.3.1 which the Link plug-in is designed to replace. The Euro S50 uses a Seimens ECU with a completely different pinout. So start by confirming what your original ECU is.
  6. The trigger is not happy in the logs, its no use doing a trigger calibration until that is sorted. Does your dizzy still have 24 teeth on the bottom and a single tooth on top? (some dizzys may have been modified for the G1) Drop your trigger 2 arming threshold down to a similar setting to your trigger 1.
  7. Probably the only company that may have some stock subaru connectors in NZ would be NZEFI. For anti lag you would probably want to run a couple of spare wires up to the throttlebody to allow fitting a kicker later. Also, make provision for an EGT sensor.
  8. so they are resistor plugs and leads?
  9. If those run wasted spark coils then it would be important the spark plugs are resistor type and the leads are a suppressed/resistance type. Make sure the ignitor has a very god ground, preferably to the engine block.
  10. Ok, for now set the error low to 0.0 and error high to 5.00, this will disable the error overrides so they dont confuse our diagnosis. If temp still shows something low like -40°C with these error settings turned off then that means either there is no connection to the sensor or it is open circuit. If it shows high temperature then it means the sensor is a dead short to ground.
  11. The only other suggestion I have is when you next play with it, look at the "ecu status" tab of the runtimes screen. In Link mode if there is CAN comms you will have lambda temp and status displayed on this tab.
  12. You can in fact turn charge temp approximation on in traditional mode, it will often work better than using IAT compensation alone. It applies an ideal gas law based correction to the approximated charge temp. From memory it is zero correction at 20°C, with 0.3% fuel added or removed per 1°C temp change from there (~3% per 10deg).
  13. Cant tell from your photos - does the white wire at the ecu end connect to the brown wire at the spartan end, and the green wire connects to the spartan white? The instructions are for a spartan configured in the "Link mode" which is the suggested method as it gives more failsafes. The spartan used to default to ID 950 when set to link mode but it looks like he's made a few changes lately so I dont know it that has changed or not.
  14. Thats a good catch. This suggests your problem is either a failing cam sensor or a bad connection in its wiring somewhere. Once the engine is running, the ecu is smart enough to keep track of engine position using only the crank sensor so will actually keep running happily even if the cam sensor "disappears" intermittently, so you wouldnt notice if this was happening during normal running. But for starting the cam signal is needed to synchronize and the engine wont be able to start without it, so this why the problem is probably only noticeable during start up. Give the wiring a good visual and tug the crimps etc. If that looks ok then it would be worth trying another sensor. This would be the sensor that is at the front top of the left cyl head.
  15. Yes, this is correct. Is the error low set to 0.05 & the error high to 4.95?
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