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Adamw

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Adamw last won the day on April 7

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About Adamw

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  1. Are you on the latest firmware? Your map attached above shows you where on an old version, but the log shows a newer version? Did you upgrade in between? Based on what I see I think this is a firmware problem as the triggerscope is showing the correct number of teeth coming through, but the tooth count is resetting often in the wrong place when the crankshaft quickly slows down (ecu thinks it sees a missing tooth). If you are already on the latest firmware I think this is going to need some adjustments to the code to fix. I will send an email to Link on your behalf and will cc you and ask them to get back to you. Note it is a 4 day Public holiday here in NZ for easter.
  2. Adamw

    Accel enrichment

    Not really anything I can remember that would be hugely relevant to yours (i mostly do ITB race engines). If it where mine I would probably change to alpha N to see if that gives more acceptable control. Sometimes MAP (especially single throttle, big overlap) just isnt a great indicator of air flow. Do fine breakpoints at small throttle openings like my example in this post:
  3. In general it looks like everything is working ok. It doesnt look like the alternator is working. Your ignition table is very retarded in the off boost areas and there is not much VVT action so it is going to feel fairly lethargic like that. As for the boost I would almost be suspicious there is a big boost leak as MAP never goes above 100Kpa.
  4. Is it a G4, G4+ or G4? A bit confusing as your title says G4+, but then has the part number for the G4X, and then you are posting in the G4 section... But in any case the answer is much the same. If the ECU is new then yes it will already have a base map in it. Just do all the pre-start checks etc that are listed in the manual as there may be small settings changes needed for specific car models and things like what type of air temp sensor you have connected. Confirm all basic sensors are reading realistic and calibrate the TPS, MAP and check base timing once it is running. The injector size as well as variables such as fuel pressure are taken care of by the "master fuel" number. It is set at 9ms in the base map which would suggest to me the test car had big injectors. Start with about double that number should get you close to starting up, then just bump it up or down until it runs ok.
  5. Your fuel table set up with 10% breakpoints is not really suitable for ITB's. Because you get a large increase in airflow for the first few percent of throttle opening you need much finer breakpoints at small throttle openings. Once your past about 20% open then your breakpoint increments can get bigger and bigger. Below is an example from one of my ITB engines, do your breakpoints similar to this. Notice at 1000RPM how much difference in fuel there is between 0% and 2% throttle... Also notice at say 3000RPM how little difference there is in fuel between say 40% and 100% throttle. Also, you will need to add a map sensor later if you want to use idle air control, without it the ecu wont be able to compensate for the extra air that the idle valve lets through.
  6. Adamw

    Zetec Turbo

    No, leave it as is. The AFR target table is set between 1.00 & 0.95 in all the idle/cruise region so that is having very little influence on the commanded fuel. Backfiring is usually due to lean mixture, not rich. This looks like it would just be due to your fuel table having very small numbers at closed throttle above about 3500RPM.
  7. I wouldnt set the aux up as a fan, as when it turns on it will increase idle speed for the fan load. Instead set the aux up as a GP output then set the condition that you want to turn it on. Look at aux 7 in the GTS base map as an example, it turns on the CE light if temp goes above 102C or if the boost goes above 230Kpa. Red means you are not connected to an ECU. Aux 1 is connected to two pins. Make sure the alternative pin doesnt have a wire connected to it.
  8. If its one of those barrel shaped bosch idle valves then you need to set the minimum clamp to 15%. 100% is fully open, 15% is fully closed, below 15% they start to open again. If that doesnt help then post your tune Ill take a quick look.
  9. Sorry for the confusion Aewon, Vaughan isnt quite right here. Most of the Plug-ins dont have highside drive hardware on board (the only exception is some of the subarus and hondas). The auxes do have a 1.5Kohm pull-up to 12V, so they will drive to 12V when "off", but they wont have enough grunt to drive a relay.
  10. Can you attach your tune. So is the flywheel now 60-2 and no cam sensor?
  11. You realise the "psid" is differential pressure right? It is not very common to run at 100psi differential, I really only see it a little bit in drag racing with methanol & usually mechanical fuel pumps - yes most of the EV14 injectors work ok up to about 125psid. But the typical application that needs 100psi differential is something pretty wild so idle quality is long out the window anyway and deadtimes arent going to matter one bit.
  12. Can you try this. I have lowered the arming thresholds and put in way more crank enrichment and pre-crank prime. 3sgebaserev8.6 Try this.pclr
  13. Not really, I've used the hella one a few times for fuel pumps on race cars with slow/small alternators but only smallish pumps at about 10A. They are rated for 22A, but a few other guys on here that tried them with higher loads said they overheat and reduce output after a short time. In the Megasquirt world the Dorman 902-303 (jeep) or Dorman 902-310 (dodge) are common and are meant to do up to 40A PWM. Never used one personally however.
  14. Adamw

    G4+ monsoon to v8

    You can download a PDF of this pic down the bottom so you can print etc. Monsoon LS1 Basic.pdf
  15. Adamw

    Onboard Wideband TTLink 1.5

    That page is for the G4X - although Im not even sure if the X does have an onboard controller. Here is a copy of how the same page read when the G4+ was the current model: http://web.archive.org/web/20180524092028/http://dealers.linkecu.com:80/iPA1_2
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