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Adamw

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Adamw last won the day on September 27

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About Adamw

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    Aplications Engineer (Staff)

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  1. Ah ha. Pinout is wrong, you are connected to pin 2 & 3 instead of 3 & 4.
  2. Everything looks fine in your map and you are using a recent firmware so no issues there. The errors can only be wiring or the dash config. If it is a Link branded dash it should be pre-configured - but it wouldnt hurt to check if you havent already done so. The ECU stream should be set to "LINK - CAN_BUS_BASE_LCC". If no joy there, then can you give us a couple of photos of the CANF wiring etc so we can confirm the right pins are in use.
  3. Yeah, this is weird. Im not convinced it is a trigger issue as all of those "trigger 1 states" are normal for start up. But what gives me a little doubt that it may still be trigger related is the dwell sits at zero for those first two start attempts (and your 3 trigger error counts). I assume from the voltages that the attached triggerscope was done at idle after it restarted. It would be good if next time you can try to catch a triggerscope of a hot crank when it doesnt start. Your triggerscope matches the expected pattern quite well.
  4. Ok, your map attached with bump modified from above to work with G4X. New pic below to show where to find the settings. Your trigger setup is still wrong in your map as it is not clear what you have for triggers. Can you explain better what you have on the cam and crank on your engine. 1uzstormx bump fixed.pclx
  5. On top of Vaughan's suggestion, I would also make sure you put a timing light on both trailing plugs to confirm they are the right way around, and not 180 out. The lambda is also very noisy like it is maybe only running on one rotor? And have you confirmed base timing? With the set base timing screen open (timing locked) does it hold steady when you rev it?
  6. I just looked that up on google, thats a weird idea, It must send the high voltage from the original coil straight back to the battery? If you can it wouldnt be a bad idea to unplug that temporarily and run it on the stock coilk just as a test to see if the noise disappears from the triggerscope. I dont think that spike we see is coming from the trigger, it appears to be ignition noise getting into the system somewhere.
  7. Why do you think the heater needs to be connected to the ecu? With any wideband the heater can only be controlled by the wideband controller. The only thing that should be connected to the ecu is the 0-5V analog output.
  8. Adamw

    link ecu Tune help

    As above it really needs to go to a tuner, anything else we are just guessing which may just make things worse.
  9. An oscilation is an unstable control loop - it means your throttle PID needs work. Best way to do this is leave it in set up mode, set up a time plot with TP main and TP target overlaid and adjust PID one at a time while moving the throttle - you will soon see the effect that each setting has. Do these engines have the clutched throttle like a 1UZ? I dont see any aux output set up for the clutch. There are settings for the 1UZ throttle in the help file.
  10. The help file sums it up pretty well. To get all benefits from modelled you need good injector data, a fuel press sensor and a fuel temp sensor.
  11. Correct. Can you attach your ECU map.
  12. Yep, add the boost parameters below as well as percentage Fcut and percentage Icut.
  13. It looks like youve got something coming through your ground circuit as there is a spike on both triggers at the same time. Looks like the spark event form just one cylinder. Is there anything different in one cylinder like a non-resistor spark plug or something? Try bumping the arming threshold on trigger 2 at 1000RPM up top about 1.5 or 2V might help. Also check your rotor phasing - to do this, turn the engine over by hand to about 15-20°BTDC, then pull the distributor cap off and make sure the rotor is nicely centered under one of the cap posts. If not, rotate the distributo
  14. You really need to do a PC log so all the relevant paramaters are logged. Cant really tell you anything from that. It doesnt look like there is much closed loop action going on so possibly needs more derivative.
  15. It will mean your basic VE numbers are off, but I would still expect it to behave correctly. Earlier you had a log where the AFR changed with fan status even when the car was driving (ie not idle), so I dont think putting a hole in the VE around the idle area is going to be the solution. I would probably take care of it by trying something more like Ducie's suggestion of a 4D fuel table activated with the fan.
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