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Adamw

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Adamw last won the day on February 16

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About Adamw

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  1. It sure sounds like you have correct pins now. Although the 0.76V seems odd, I would expect 1V at zero pressure. Reading the datasheet again it looks like it might need more than 5V supply. Do you have the SPA gauges still so you can measure what they were supplying? I suspect 12V.
  2. It has a weak 12V pull-up so it will go to 12V when it is off but it wont have enough current to drive a relay. This is done so that things like a tacho that needs a 0-12V pulse will work. Why dont you just put 12V to the other side of the relay coil like the help file shows? Like this:
  3. Most of the Plug-in ECU's (GTT included) donot have highside drives, they can only do lowside - even tho the highside setting is available in the software.
  4. Yes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  5. Yeah, I dont think that is your problem. The DW pump will have an internal check valve. I would suggest you do a couple of PC logs, one with a quick start and one with a long start, then we might be able to see if there are any differences.
  6. As long as you mean trigger the pump relay, and not the pump directly. the Aux output will supply a ground to turn on the relay, your wiring needs to provide the ignition switched +12v to the other side of the relay coil. Thats up to you. The most common option would be to snip off the old air flow meter plug and run two wires from there to the temp sensor. You will just need to assign IAT to whatever input you decide to use in the software. Yes 1G & 1H are where the ignition coil signals come from. The 12V for the coils should come from a relay that switches on with ignition, the existing wire that supplied 12V to the original coil will probably be adequate. The ground would be best to connect directly to the cylinder head somewhere.
  7. Yeah I noticed that too. Has been fixed now.
  8. Yes, voltage should increase with pressure. So are these only 2 wires and a shield? That doesnt match the datasheet you linked. Whats the full part number? It sounds like they might be the 4-20mA versions rather than voltage.
  9. Yep, ign 7 or 8 on the expansion would be good options. Other options would be Aux 5 on the main header that was originally for FP solenoid or Aux 6 that controls the turbo light or Aux 3 that done FP speed control on some models. I would guess that 2 since there are only 4 wires but which is which is anyones guess. You will either have to beep it out yourself or find some documentation from however makes it. This will be a "high level" tacho, designed to be driven by the high voltage spike that comes off the coil, so a 12V aux output from the ECU will not drive it. The easiest option is a "tacho booster" like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142171581596 This would be connected to one of the other spare aux outputs. The temp sensor can be connected to the old airflow meter plug. The lambda can connect to the same expansion as the fuel pump. Coils dont go to the expansion loom they will need to be wired direct to ign 1 & 2 on the main header.
  10. Adamw

    NGTT+ questions

    Info from the manual below. There is a factory fitted "MAP" sensor that Nissan call turbo pressure sensor, however it is capable of reading vacuum so can be used as a MAP. This will do you fine provided you are not going to run more than about 18psi. You just need to move the hose to the manifold. Otherwise you can just replace that sensor with a bigger one, using the same wiring, or wire a new one via the airflow meter wiring or expansion loom. For the boost solenoid you should be able to just connect it to the existing wires in place of the factory solenoid.
  11. On the Honda plug-in ECU Aux 5 & 6 have a special high-side driver onboard for the Vtec and intake solenoid. If you want to drive a 3 wire idle valve that needs open/close signals then only aux 1 & 2 can be used for that type of valve. Although is is a relatively simple circuit you can make to allow you to drive this type of valve from a single aux output. Im not sure what your question is about Aux 4.
  12. CBR's normally match the Honda 15X jetski mode, although your "15BTDC" doesnt sound right, it should be more like 30 cam/60 crank degrees before. Give it a shot, I know of a few CBR's running this mode.
  13. Probably the best place to start will be a short log of it cranking as that will give us a pretty good idea that all sensors are working etc. You should also try the injector test function to turn on each injector individually so you can make sure they all click to prove that they arent stuck. Here's a video how to do the log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  14. Adamw

    CAN DI issue

    I suspect simply because we have not yet come across a car that has a CAN bus starter request. Your idea with the Aux connected to a DI is really the only work-around at present if it must be via CAN.
  15. Adamw

    Wheel Speed Sensors

    The max frequency that the DI's can do is related to how busy the processor is. So our quoted 500Hz limit is worst case. A V8 sequential, direct spark with individual cyl fuel and ignition trims will get a lot less frequency than say a basic 4 cyl with distributor set up. 25teeth would probably work for you reliably by the sounds of it. Here's a cheap divide by 8 device that I have used before: https://www.vems.com/vr-to-hall.html
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