Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Adamw last won the day on October 15

Adamw had the most liked content!

About Adamw

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

5,598 profile views
  1. Adamw

    3SGTE Trigger Errors

    Here is how to do a trigger scope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=RGBlgS However if you are getting correct RPM when cranking it would suggest your trigger is fine.
  2. Yes, they are fussy if connected to a circuit that has significant inductive noise (large voltage spikes). If they are wired as per the two options in the quick start guide they work fine, just very few people seem to read the manual.
  3. Here is V4.5.1: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmyNK85RxGVdTquXu?e=cxIytF See if you can connect successfully without errors with this, if so, save the map onto your laptop. It would be nice to do a firmware update eventually but since so much has changed and so many new features have been added since your version I think it would be unwise to do so without having the tune checked afterwards. If you look in the V4.10.2 help file at the page: Vi-PEC Tuning Software VX Users Manual > Release Notes >ECU Firmware Version Information, you can see a lot of stuff has changed. Mostly the orange and red notes are the ones that have the potential to affect the tune.
  4. Adamw

    3SGTE Trigger Errors

    Multitooth position should be set to cam since the distributor turns at cam speed. Note the correct settings are in either of the ST205/185 base maps and the help file. Your triggerscope shows no signal, most likely you done something wrong there.
  5. The would be a G4 Storm based plug-in. It had only 4 ignition drives so the coils are paired in wasted spark mode. Injectors are sequential. No internal knock control or E-throttle but most other functions are there.
  6. Firmware is the code that is inside the ECU. What you are looking at on the Link website is the PC Link software. Your log shows your firmware is V5.6.4 which is about 3 years old. If you update it to the latest then go to the cruise control menu you will find a new setting called "cruise on switch", set this to toggle. How to update: https://youtu.be/u54915wuLYc
  7. How old is your Haltech device? For the last 3 years or so they have been selling the IQ3S which has completely user configurable CAN. Very painful to configure but you should be able to do whatever you like.
  8. How does your cruise on switch work? In most cars this is a momentary switch that your push once to turn on and push again to turn off, it doesnt look like that is what is happening in your log. In the old firmware that you are using it could only be a momentary switch. If yours is not a momentary switch then update to the latest firmware which will allow you to set whether it is a momentary or toggle/latch type switch.
  9. I can hear barely anything in either recording. Yes, this is normal. Timing doesnt make a huge difference to the noise in general (assuming we are not talking a massively retarded starting point), but boost certainly does. Typically with a NA engine or a turbo engine that runs a fixed boost level you only need a 2D knock target table, on a turbo engine that runs various boost levels then you need the 3rd axis on the target table to adjust the target based on load.
  10. What you're seeing here is not normal, usually connecting to the ECU is quite intuitive and straight forward. I've never seen the error you describe but my first thought is maybe your ecu has very old firmware in it. Generally the Vipec software has good backwards compatibility but there were major changes in code around firmware V4.4 and I have seen some connection problems with firmwares older than this when connecting to the newest software. Perhaps older firmwares/softwares may have allowed the firing order to be entered wrong and yours has always been that way... So the first thing we want to do is confirm what firmware version you have. You can do this by connecting again, dismiss any errors, then go to >help>ecu information, note down the "maincode firmware version" at the top of the list. As long as you dont do a store or save then once you disconnect USB and powercycle the ECU it will return to the same condition it was in before you connect.
  11. There are instructions attached to the first post.
  12. Yes the Monsoon will do it fine.
  13. A couple of GP PWM examples below, the first one will send out a pulse that matches the injector pulse (roughly once every 2 revs, roughly same duty cycle as the injector). Since you have bigger injectors and want to tell the instrument that there is more fuel flowing than it appears from the duty cycle I think I would try adjusting the frequency table (so it sends the pulse more often - since you cant send more than 100% DC anyway). This first set up would give the same signal as effectively "teeing" into an actual injector wire: Since your new injectors have about 3.6X the flowrate of original, we could send the "pulses" 3.6X more often by doing this: It's hard to know if this will work as we dont know if the instrument already takes RPM into account from the tacho signal or it uses this same fuel used pulse. But worth a shot.
  14. DI4 is the gearbox sensor, it is just set to LF wheel speed as many functions need a driven wheel speed assigned to work properly. So your speed lockout for idle ignition control should be working fine. Just check in the speed sources menu that both driven and non driven wheel speed is set to LF. He was talkng about "0%", not 0V.
  15. Adamw

    Sequential gear cut.

    Yes you can use barrel position as both the start cut and end cut. It is probably not going to work as good as a strain gauge since you dont have much control over the initial mechanical preload using this method but it will still work. Note you didnt attach your map.
  • Create New...