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Everything posted by Adamw

  1. The 5V code probably suggests they shorted something when they were messing around but it doesnt appear to have harmed anything from what we can see in the log. Everything seems to be reading correctly and I dont see any obvious issues. The boost cut looks like it is just overshooting a bit, it probably just needs a bit of duty cycle taken out of the wastegate table to sort that - maybe temperature/environmental related. Is it possible it now has higher fuel pressure than it did before the fix?
  2. The intent for realdash support with the G4X is via CAN bus as realdash now support a couple of different low cost CAN bus adapters and it will give the user much more ability to customise what they send to the dash compared to the old fixed serial stream. I wanted to test the system myself and set up some example templates for users before I announced it as the recommended route. However, the recommended CAN adapter that I ordered from China seems to be caught up or lost in all the corona virus delays so I dont know how long it will be before I get a chance to do that. If you look at the last couple of posts in the realdash thread in the G4+ forum you will see another user there has the CAN bus option working. You will also find a .xml configuration there from me from the Link Dash2pro preconfigured stream if you want to try it yourself. More info on the adapters here: http://realdash.net/manuals/supported_can_lin_analyzers.php I was told the Seeedstudio one was prefered, it runs around USD$25.
  3. For a CAN lambda you will need a different cable, you need a CANPCB and the mating plug CANF. Something like this:
  4. The M50B25 engine doesnt have vanos. Only the M50B25TU has vanos. The B25TU vanos is very simple just on/off control like similar to Honda VTEC. You can look at the setup in the E36 plug-in basemap, Aux ouput #3, it just turns on at 2500RPM, and turns off at 4500RPM.
  5. Adamw

    Directly driving a W2A pump

    No you cant combine two outputs, if one wire ever has a bad connection it will put twice as much current through the single output. If you fry it, it will not be covered by warranty. Injector drives are very robust but have no active overcurrent protection as far as I know. The E-throttle chipset rated continuous output current is 5A provided temperature is under control. Active current limiting starts somewhere between 5.2 & 6.5A depending on temp.
  6. Adamw

    Fuel map inquiry

    It could be something like incorrect cam timing, a worn cam, or a restriction on the intake or exhaust side of the engine.
  7. I cant really say for sure since you havent mentioned what ecu/car you have. But assuming it is the S13 or S15 ecu then most likely your AFM signal is on AN Volt 4.
  8. Adamw

    Fuel map inquiry

    No. As I mentioned earlier you appear to have an airflow issue. You have the same injector pulse width and same fuel pressure at 3700RPM as you do at 6500RPM. So, if you are putting in the same amount of fuel and are measuring the same AFR, then that means the airflow/VE is the same at both RPM's. The shape of your fuel table reflects the amount of air that the engine is flowing. If it is dropping off at high RPM, that means your VE is dropping off at high RPM. This would suggest an air flow problem, not a tune problem.
  9. Tuning cam timing is just like tuning ignition timing and injection timing, you can really only do it by holding it steady state on a dyno and moving the cams until best torque output is achieved. If you dont have a dyno then you will just have to have an educated guess. In general the Intake cam will be zero at idle, max advance at cruise and all the way up to around peak torque RPM then back to zero at redline. Exhaust cam curve will be similar but retard instead of advance. So zero at idle, max retard at cruise up to peak torque, then back to zero at high RPM.
  10. Adamw

    Directly driving a W2A pump

    You will need a relay, you cannot directly drive a 7A load. Injector drives can do 5A continuous in aux output mode, GP Aux outputs can do 2A.
  11. The same setup should work for the G4. Does a Link ECU show up in the realdash serial port settings? Have you tried some other device like a USB mouse in your OTG adapter? Did you powercycle the ECU after having PC Link connected?
  12. Adamw

    File size

    You have possibly reached your allowance. You will have to use a host. Try uploading to imgbb.com then copy the viewer link and paste into your thread.
  13. I dont see anything else to suggest from the info you have given. Is the spark edge set to falling? Has the factory ignitor been removed? Is your timing light a non-advance type? Are you checking timing with an HT lead between coil and spark plug?
  14. Your base postion table and the max clamp dont look normal to me. The GM stepper motors can move about 250steps, so generally your max clamp would be somewhere up around 200. The numbers in the base position table represent "Steps from fully open", so you basically have it jammed fully open all the time. Generally you would have numbers around 100-200 at normal running temp and smaller numbers at the left hand end when cold (small numbers means more open). You may need to open the throttle blade a bit more if it wont idle with more normal numbers in the base position table (set in open loop). Also, your RPM lockout wants to be somewhere around 400RPM. Are you sure the ecu hold power is working correctly so the valve is resteing after power off? If you turn the ignition off when the laptop is still connected - does the laptop stay connected for the 10second hold power timeout?
  15. Run a cam angle test on each cam. Set test pulse count to 2. Check that the cam angle numbers are stable during the test (+/-1deg), if they are not then it would suggest the cam sensor pattern is different to the M52. Use the lowest cam angle number from the cam angle test as the offset.
  16. Thats the problem, the ecu wouldnt have known which one to use either. You can work out which is which by unplugging one and seeing which one shows an error in the software. This ecu is from an era before ecu's had triggerscopes... If its using the subaru V7-10 JDM trigger mode then you can try setting the trigger 2 lockout to about 4000RPM and that will make the ecu ignore the cam sensor above that. That was sometimes needed to solve trigger issues on some models that had a lot of movement in the cam drive system.
  17. Adamw


    It will only pull 100mA or so but something like a 5A fuse will protect it.
  18. Adamw

    G4X & Mazda GTX 1995

    Did you try driving? Reluctor sensors voltage is proportional to speed so they wont output enough voltage at low speeds.
  19. Adamw

    Atomx problem

    Please attach a log and the map. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  20. If your gauge is outputting 9V on the white wire then either the gauge is faulty or your wiring is faulty. It should only output either a 0-1V, 1-2V or 0-5V signal depending on the position of the dial switch on the back. It should not be capable of outputting anymore than 5V.
  21. Yes, your settings should be fine. Since you only have 4 teeth you can run the filter quite high with no negative effect. Level 2 would be suggested.
  22. Unfortunately "start switch" is not something you can do directly via CAN in the G4+. The only work around is if you have a spare aux output and real DI, then you can activate the aux output via CAN which is then connected to a real DI.
  23. Adamw

    Thunder & Acdelco d585

    I havent used one for many years and have always got away with it. However if I was going to use one I would go for something like a UBZ111 or a ford yl1z-18801-aa
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