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Everything posted by Adamw

  1. Adamw

    Inputting CAN

    I think you might be looking at the diagnostics comms rather than the actual ecu comms to dash. The ECU stream would more commonly be 500K, and I would expect to see more ID's. It is not always on the same bus as the OBD2 port. Typically the way you reverse engineer the bus is isolate as much as you can, then vary one measured item and watch what changes in the data. For instance for your coolant temp, you would test with engine not running (so there is less data moving on the screen), fit a potentiometer in place of the temp sensor and vary the resistance - you should then be able to
  2. Sorry, I only just had a spare minute to take a look. That file you have attached isnt the dash config - it should have a .zconfig extension. Go to the config page is RS3, put a tick in the checkbox for your config, then click the export button at the top.
  3. It sounds like someone may be feeding you a bit of a story? I had a brief chat to our USA office on Friday, none of them knew anything about this claim of 20 "faulty ecu's", or had any knowledge of anyone waiting for a "Link liasion" to visit Xcessive. The last support case we have logged in the support system for Xcessive was back in January and it was not for a faulty ECU. Our USA manager called Xcessive to query your problem and I didnt get a detailed story but it sounds like they believe they have a problem in their adapter harness? So as far as I can gather at this time it is not
  4. All sensors are connected to the same 5V and same sensor ground internally. If one sensor overloads the 5V, then all sensors will be effected. You cant wire a knock sensor to the expansion loom, it needs to be wired to the knock pin which already has the factory sensor connected to it. You dont find "calibration values" for a knock sensor, you need to calibrate the system yourself. Can you attach the map so I can take a look at your settings.
  5. In modelled mode the "fuel table" represents air flow (Volumetric Efficiency). It needs to show realistic volumetric efficiency numbers otherwise much of the calculation is wrong. If you have acheived the correct AFR but the VE table has unrealistic VE numbers then it usually means your fuel flow data is wrong. As per the help file if you dont have accurate data especially for the injectors and fuel pressure then you are better to use traditional mode. I suggest you turn on asynchronous injection, set min async PW to 0.5 then change your accel sense table to 2.0 right acros
  6. Adamw

    Fault code 43

    Error code 43 is just because you had the temp sensor unplugged. When it is unplugged the temp will default to whatever temp you have set as the fault value - so that doesnt necessarily mean above you fan activation temp. To test your fan you can go to the engine fan settings and use the aux test function that is just below the relevant fan output setting. The other two errors are just warnings that showed in old firmware - update to the latest firmware and clear the errors and they will be gone. For the VVT you will need to give us a log and a copy of your tune.
  7. If it has 2 DBW motors then only the Thunder can do that (G4+), currently we dont have a G4X with dual DBW capability.
  8. So the engine no longer runs either? Does it still crank over etc?
  9. The two "Low reference" pins on the pedal connect to sensor ground, the two "5V reference" on the pedal connect to the 5V pin on the Expansion harness. The rest is all correct.
  10. What is the part number of the AEM gauge you have? Is it an X-series?
  11. A faulty IAT sensor isnt going to make your TPS erratic, so as above it is more likely something these have in common which would be the 5V supply or the sensor ground. Yes the AEM sensor PN30-2014 is the exact same sensor that we sell as far as I can tell. But the symtopms you have described dont seem to fit a faulty temp sensor. You can test it by measuring its resistance with a multimeter. Yes it will work with the stock sensor, but the tuner will need to calibrate the knock control system before you can use it.
  12. So have you now confirmed that it is definitely not powered up by checking if the power LED is glowing? It could be anything from a blown fuse to a flat battery to a bad connection somewhere. If you have confirmed it is not powered up then please give more detail of what model car etc and I can give some further troubleshooting steps. Do you have a multimeter?
  13. Sorry you are not making any sense. I’m not sure if you are translating from a different language or just not writing clearly. Can you please start again and try to explain the problem more clearly. If you are not a native English speaker then explain in your own language and I will try translating.
  14. Ok, unfortunately this may have been a bit of a case of me not being able to see the forrest through the trees, but I think I finally spotted the (obvious) problem tonight. Please change the trigger mode (not VVT mode) to 2NZ. Yours has the 36-2 crank wheel, our 1NZ mode is expecting 36-4 teeth. Note you will need to set/check the base timing again after changing the trigger mode. The arming threshold tables may overwrite themsevles also so just check that they still have the same voltages that I suggested above after the change. Edit: You may need to set the VVT offset again to
  15. Yes, this is how it works already. Anytime it has been locked out, when the lock out conditions are no longer true then there is a re-activation timer that times out to allow Lambda to stabalise before the CLL is re-enabled. The length of the re-activation timer is hard-coded in the G4+, but from memory is 1-3 seconds depending on conditions. That would not help the OP's problem as he hadnt even met any lock-out conditions. That was just the quickest fix to get around the OP's problem which was due to the CLL pulling fuel out in the cruise area so when he pushed in the cl
  16. I have a tuned a LS3 with a G4X, but really only have basic start up maps for G4+. What ECU do you have?
  17. Most likely. If the engine doesnt run then the easiest way to tell if the ecu is powered up is to pull the cover off the case, there is a blue or greeen LED inside that glows when powered up.
  18. They need a high side drive, so, if you have a Storm, Xtreme, Fury or Thunder wire-in ecu then yes you can control directly (Aux 5/6/7 or 8 can do high side). Anything else will need a relay.
  19. Your fuel table doesnt look correct at all for modelled mode, you should have VE numbers around 60-110% if everything is set up right. It suggests the engine is getting more fuel than you have told the ecu it can flow. So either injector data or fuel pressure is wrong. If you dont have accurate data then dont guess, you will be better to change back to traditional mode. IAT trim table table should also be turned off in modelled mode. Your accel enrichment settings look pretty crazy too, that is likely activating nearly all the time and messing up your fuel mapping. Turn knoc
  20. What part number AEM do you have? There are at least 3 different AEM lambda calibrations - and none of them match the ZT3! Does the AEM have a gauge? Does the gauge read the same as the dyno?
  21. If it is an oil pressure switch rather than pressure sensor then both ECU and dash will need custom CAN but it can be done. If it is a pressure sensor then it is already sent in the default set-up. If you attach your ecu and dash configs I can set it up. I dont see any way in the current dash firmware to use the built-in buttons on the side of the dash to control anything in the ecu. If you had hardwired switches wired to the inputs at the back of the dash then it could be done.
  22. It is really up to you to tune it to acheive what you want. I dont know what type of racing you are doing or anything. Circuit racers often have a non-driven wheel speed based launch strategy. Jet skis and boats often use a timer strategy. Drag racers with big tires will often just have a fixed limit while the clutch or transbrake is engaged. It is better to use a virtual aux to enable it rather than setting it to "always on" as when it is always on your closed loop lambda and knock control will be disabled. A common virtual aux condition may be something like TP>50% and wheel s
  23. Sorry for the slow reply. File attached. Note you will need to use the ECU master light client to set the multiplier/divider so that the speed reads correctly. derekcobraswitchsetup CAN wspeed.pclr
  24. Yes. Basically in your car the "ON" switch and the "Cancel" switch are the same thing (backwards on the stalk). Some cars have seperate On and cancel switches - so you can cancel and resume without having to set the speed every time.
  25. Usually best to have and arming switch or another option is to use a virtual aux. Yes, for speed base launch control this is why non-driven wheel speed is suggested.
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