Adamw

There is 720deg in a 4 stroke engine cycle. The offset can be anywhere between -360 and +360. Because the crankshaft does 2 revolutions in an engine cycle, the timing light will show "correct timing" regardless of if you are sparking at TDC on the exhaust stroke or TDC on the compression stroke. However then engine will only run if the spark is near TDC compression stroke.

It sounds like your ECU is powering up ok initially but dropping out when cranking. This suggests the FET is ok. What is the voltage on pin 45 when cranking?

So is the tacho connected to Q26 or to the ignitor? If connected to Q26 has the tacho output been assigned in the software?

My thought was the display may stay alive down to say 3V but the processing side may dropout before then.

Since the error is at peak torque, this could quite likely be related to ignition noise. Is it using the stock ignition system? Resistor spark plugs? The other common cause of trigger issues on evos is the cam sensors are quite prone to failure since they get a lot of heat from the turbo and the water outlet right next to it. Cant really tell which of those is more likely in this case, but generally if the error only happens at high boost then it is ignition system noise, if it only happens at high RPM when hot regardless of boost, then more likely the sensor.

It could only be a wiring issue, the brake switch isn't even connected to the ECU so the ecu has no idea you are pressing the pedal. It sounds more like the CAN bus is being interrupted, but I would start by confirming you have 12V at the back of the gauge with the pedal both up and down.

Your lambda setup looks correct, I changed the gauge setup a little. Have you programmed the 2nd AEM O2 to use ID2? Have you programmed the CAN gauge to use 500Kbit? current viper map, scav pump on, ethanol sensor on WMP1200cc CAN changes.pclx

There is a "TDC" every 360degs, so 400BTDC is effectively the same as 40BTDC.

Provided you have both a crank and cam sensor, you could wire injectors in pairs like below, set injection mode to sequential. This will give you what we call semi-sequential. The injection events will then be more correctly timed with valve events, just 1 injector in the pair will fire 45deg earlier than ideal and 1 injector will fire 45deg later than ideal. But still better than multipoint group mode where the injection events arent timed with valve events at all. Inj1 drive to Cyl 1 & 5. Inj2 drive to Cyl 7 & 2. Inj3 drive to Cyl 6 & 3. Inj4 drive to Cyl 4 & 8.

With the CAS aligned in the factory position as per the service manual, the trigger offset would usually be around -90 to -100deg. 288 probably means you are sparking at TDC exhaust stroke.

I think the cruise PID is just a bit too aggressive. You can see below how noisy TPS delta gets when cruise is active, even at the fixed speed, then where you change the set speed you see the big spikes in both directions. Basically the throttle is fighting every tiny deviation in speed. That over-excited TPS is also constantly triggering accel enrichment so you are probably burning more fuel than it should be too. Try halving your existing cruise proportional gain. I think Integral and derivate probably are ok but please set the "PID setup" to cruise control before the next log so we have some better data.

The attached will be a reasonable starting point. Enter your injector settings, correct engine size, check base timing and all sensor calibrations. 4AGE Boosted Modelled single throttle Monsoon.pclx

I would also check voltage on pin 45 during cranking, if this drops below about 7.5V the ECCS relay can drop out.

Sorry yes, 2 & 4 to D22. I have corrected my original post. The distributor has reluctor sensors so you dont have a choice of the edge in the software.

I thought most JZ engines have the tacho connected to the ignitor. Does it still have the stock ignitor and coils?

Agree with INSW20, the stock sensor is not suitable, I assume the Toyota ECU must have a much lower impedance input or some other form of attenuation to bring it down to a usable voltage.

The "noise" on the scope is normal, this is artificial noise caused by a combination of the 8bit resolution and aliasing due to the sample rate. I see the same "noise" even with a clean computer generated signal on the bench sometimes. The exhaust cam sensors are pretty prone to failing on modified evo's, so if you haven't tried that and still have the other car available you should try swapping that as a test. But apart from that I would still be concentrating on ignition system noise.

The log shows the idle valve is fully closed. So either the throttle is too far open, the stepper is not homing correctly, or it is losing position, so the ecu only thinks it is fully closed, but it is actually not. I would expect to see idle position around at least 20% open when hot. I would change the integral gain to 0.5 as 1.25 is possibly forcing it to move faster than it can actually move. Your idle ignition proportional gain is also very high at 15, typical is 1.0.

That would be fine. Connect dizzy pin 2&4 to D22 which I assume is the black wire. Distributor pin 5 to the grey, distributor pin 6 to the blue.

Please continue to communicate with Anthony, I cant help. I suspect the problem is the "0" on the front of the serial number, this is meant to be removed. You need the code for 4471, not 04471.

This means the ecu hasnt received a CAN message with the DI status for more than 2 seconds. This is a safety feature so if for example a wire gets broken your CAN-controlled cruise control wont get "stuck on". Default realdash behaviour is it only sends a CAN message when a state changes (ie the button is pressed). The "write interval" option is meant to force realdash to send the message at least once every interval regardless of a state change. So it sounds like your .XML is either missing the write interval attribute or has a formatting issue with it, or there is a bug preventing that from working. You could possibly use the CAN monitor in realdash to see if that message is being transmitted regularly. I assume it shows transmitted messages.

Your trigger offset is zero in the G4+ map and 268 in the G4X map. You need to confirm that with a timing light but I would expect similar numbers in both ecu's.

I can see in our tech support system that one of our sales team has provided an unlock code to you. Please continue dialog in the support ticket with Anthony if you still have a problem.

If pin 27 is at 12V when pin 56 is at 12V then that would indicate the FET is fried/damaged. It is pretty unusual since they have several protections and a huge current rating so it usually needs a pretty significant event to damage one - like the battery connected backwards or something. It's not impossible that it just failed on its own but it was at least working when it when through its production testing after several hours of burn-in testing. Anyhow, start by contacting [email protected] to get it back for inspection. The service team can usually determine the cause, if it doesnt appear to be related to a wiring issue then it will likely be a warranty repair. If there is strong evidence that it was caused by a wiring issue then they will let you know if there is going to be a repair cost.

My suspicion is more around ignition noise than an issue with the trigger as it is just coming on to full load around that RPM. Im assume if you lower boost it will rev cleanly to the RPM limit? Wasted spark ignition generates a lot of noise so all noise reduction considerations need to be well covered for wasted spark ignition at high boost. Does it have resistor spark plugs fitted? Are the HT leads OEM or a good quality performance brand and in good/new condition? What sparkplug gap is it running?