Adamw

Another couple of checks that may give some clues: set one of the spare CAN channels on the same bus as your lambda to "transmit generic dash", any ID is fine. Unplug lambda in engine bay and measure coltage between ground and CAN H, then ground and CAN L. CAN H should be about 3.5V and CAN L should be about 1.5V. Unplug ecu and lambda, measure resistance between CAN H/L wires. Should be "OL". If not you may have a solder bridge in the CAN F.

Yes that set up looks more normal. Lambda is no use during any limiter or misfire.

Will need to see a log. Most likely havent met the Sec PW lockout.

Correct. And set the ignition mode to wasted spark.

The accel enrichment doesnt look too bad to me in that log. Maybe a bit too much when its cold but it looks ok when warm. Do you have some drivability problem? I would suggest turning on asynchrous injection as this reduces the need for accel fuel (but you will need to retune accel fuel if you do this.

Yes disconnecting the squareish 4 pin plug will do it, then push the throttle plate fully closed by hand, note down the voltages, then push fully open and note voltages again. Manually type these into the TPS open/closed voltages. As for the reason for the "H Bridge is reversed" error: After the initial TP fully open calibration the ecu turns off power to throttle motor and expects the internal spring to move the throttle blade somewhere nearly closed (99% of DBW throttles do this). However if after turning off the power the throttle blade remains closer to fully opened than fully closed then the ecu will assume it is working backwards. I guess maybe some of these toyota throttles are a bit stiff so the blade doesnt spring closed by itself?

Doing as Vaughan says would give you the correct value received into the ECU. However GP Temps only have a 0.1°C resolution so your 35.781 CAN analog will be rounded to 35.8°C Are you really worried about the 0.02°C?

This is for VQ35 I dont know for sure if HR is the same but I would say it is pretty likely. 12V Signal Gnd Cam and crank pinout the same. The pinout above is shown looking back into the wiring loom plug.

Not sure that is a good idea, your EGT is often already say 900°C after antilag, retarding ign is going to make it hotter... The whole idea of cyclic idle is to cool the system down, not just to achieve a lower idle speed. So with a large throttle opening and fuel cut on each cylinder in a cyclic pattern you get a large volume of cool air pumped through the manifold each cycle. Even with antilag systems that dont use a fixed throttle stop and could idle on their own without cyclic, it is still common to keep the throttle open and use cyclic for a cool down period at the end of the stage.

They are a dumb coil (need a separate ignitor). There are likely smart coils of similar design from another manufacturer but it is not something I have looked for much (nearly all BMW's are dumb coils). You can generally tell by measuring resistance between the 12V and -ve/gnd pins. A dumb coil will be less than ~2ohms, a smart coil will be >500ohms.

I cant really workout what wire goes to what on that firewall plug, but assuming you are using the Link convention of White for CAN H and green for CAN L, then at least the round "CANF" plug is definitely wired wrong. You only need CAN H & CAN L. CAN H is pin 3 and CAN L is pin 4.

Yes, attach your tune and a log.

I suspect they wont make a lot of difference. Turning off the IAT trim would add some fuel, but putting some realistic numbers in the charge temp table will pull some fuel out - so they will likely almost cancel each other out. More likely deadtime related if the VE is only exaggerated at idle and normal at higher pulsewidths.

Typically with this type of strategy you wouldnt re-zero the TPS, idle would just be at 20% TP or whatever you have it at. Although it wouldnt really matter if you re-zeroed, as long as the cyclic high and low are set to match it should work either way I think. The reason for your RPM runaway is you dont have any antilag cut/retard set up. You currently have your AL enable set at 3000RPM & 50% TP, so when you blipped your throttle both of these conditions were met so cyclic turns off and antilag activates. The antilag is set to stay active for 5 secs after these conditions are no longer met. You dont have any antilag cuts or retard set up so with 20% throttle, no cuts and no retard then it is going to rev high.

I only have experience with the KA sensors and holinger ones, both quite expensive unfortunately. Any analog 0-5V or digital output type will work - analog is preferred so you can adjust in the ecu software.

Yes

Can you do a log of the TP calibration procedure. It looks like the throttle is working though, what is the problem you are trying to solve?

Launch control. Your VSS is exceeding the max frequency on DI4, so the speed drops to zero which then means your launch activation conditions are met. G4+ DI's are only rated for 500Hz so you have done well to get to 1600Hz...

Your VE around the idle area is only around 30-40% in that map? This is not high - typical would be more like 50-60%. For modelled mode the IAT trim should be turned off and the charge temp approximation needs some realistic numbers in there. Use the example table in the help file.

Here is the factory wiring diagram. ECU Pin 11 goes to the AC relay, the AC relay coil gets its supply from ign "on", fuse #5. And here is the EL power section that is referenced in the first diagram - showing fuse 5 only gets 12V with ign in ON position, there is no connection in Off, ACC or Start positions.

If the sensor is heating that means it is not receiving any CAN. When it is receiving CAN it will not turn on until after the engine has started. So most likely you have a CAN wiring issue. Can you give use some photos of all the CAN connections. Attach your tune also.

Sounds like Ign 4 is possibly damaged. You can use the same COP coils in wasted spark, just wire them in pairs.

You have probably used up your allocated upload allowance, you can share your files using google drive, onedrive etc.

Note you can connect all CAN devices to the same bus, dont need 2 separate buses. As well as the options KO mentioned, Aux 4 may be another option for the 2nd pump - the fuel consumption signal is only specifically needed for the auto trans models (obviously gauge on dash wont work without it though).