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Adamw

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  1. Adamw

    Error code 76

    In the throttle body there are two independent throttle position sensors (we call them TP main and TP sub), there is two so they can be compared to each other, if they ever read differently then ecu knows there is a problem. Fault code 76 means the readings from the two sensors arent matching each other (there is about 2% error allowed). So this could be just a calibration issue, it could be a failing sensor (need to replace the whole throttle body), or it could be a loose connection/wiring issue. Have you got any logs? If not can you give us one with just a few free revs in the garage. And a copy of your tune.
  2. With the engine running, hit F12 to go to the runtimes screen, then ecu status tab. Check what lambda 1 status and error show there.
  3. Wire the map sensor to AN Volt 1. Make sure the calibration is correct so that it reads the same as BAP with engine not running. Then disable fuel or ignition so it can’t start and do a trigger scope capture while cranking. Attach the scope file here and I will help you with settings
  4. No, sometimes it will spark on the wrong stroke and will never fire even if you crank forever. You have to stop cranking, allow the engine to stop rotating, then try again. Just like flipping a coin, sometimes it will land on heads, sometimes it will land on tails.
  5. I would say it is your accel enrichment way too sensitive. It is adding like 40-80% fuel pretty much all the time even at steady state. It goes leans in the areas where the throttle is a bit more steady so the accel enrichment is dumping inn less extra fuel. In the pic below you see this from about 4:27 to 4:32, the accel fuel (white trace) just settles down a bit and your lambda suddenly goes lean. So drop your accel sensitivity (30 is more typical) and possibly increase your deadband until you only get accel fuel for significant transients. Your fuel map will be completely messed up since it was tuned like this so you will have to completely re-tune fuel.
  6. Some IC's float off position a little as the solder underneath flows. The ECU's are all tested for several hours over a wide range of temperatures after assembly to ensure all is working and within tolerances. That specific chip is the accelerometer, so nothing to do with the triggers.
  7. Most of that sounds ok. There is no injector flow setting in traditional. Just adjust the master fuel and/or master fuel trim until the AFR is somewhere close to target, do this initially at idle to get it to run, but then when it is close enough to drive gently, then adjust it again to get the lambda on target at medium RPM, medium load. This 2nd adjustment will likely throw idle mixture out but it should give you decent mixture under most other conditions. Then the fuel map will likely need some tweaks in areas where the lambda drifts off target, especially idle areas probably. Quick tune probably wont do a great job on the road. One option for road tuning is the mixture map function, this is where you log a drive and then use the log afterwards to generate a correction to the main fuel table based on how far the measured lambda was from target. The other method would be to enable CLL and the long term trim. The long term trim table will be populated over time with how much correction the CLL is applying to keep lambda on target. After driving for some time you can then correct the main fuel table based on the stored values in the long term trim table. I have no experience with boosted VQ's so cant offer much advice for the ignition timing, but most engines on petrol if you start by pulling 1.5deg out per 1 psi (7kpa) boost from the NA timing you will have a safe starting point. There are exceptions to that trend though, so you need to be alert for signs of knock. With E85 you should be very safe but just tread carefully.
  8. Yeah definitely wrong polarity, swap those wires asap, you will have significant timing drift with that and I think it will possibly be in the nasty direction... Im glad to hear that though, I cant really put any logic to how that fixed what we thought was electrical noise but time will tell. Good work for working through it logically.
  9. All the basic set up looks ok to me, trigger looks happy. It sounds like from your comments you have already checked base timing while cranking and the timing marks are somewhere in the ballpark (doesnt need to be accurate at this stage). So, if timing looks correct but you have no signs of life then you may be sparking on exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke. The way to correct that is to add or subtract 360 deg from your current offset. So your current offset is 270, try -90. If no luck with that then give us a short PC log of a start attempt so we can confirm the basics are there.
  10. With multitooth/missing mode trigger mode and sync mode set to none (no cam sensor), then the ecu will still run in sequential, however it will only sync randomly since there is no way to know if you are on exhaust stroke or compression stroke. So approximately 50% of start attempts the ecu will start sparking on the correct stroke and the engine will start. And approx 50% of start attempts the ecu will start sparking 360deg out so the engine will not start. For your information, with motorcycle engines with no cam sensor, if you have individual throttle bodies per cylinder, then you can connect a map sensor to 1 intake port and the ecu will be able to use that to sync instead of a cam sensor.
  11. The trigger looks happy in both that trigger scope and the cranking log. But in one of those pics above you have caught it just at the right time and you can see a small gap in the trig 1 signal in two places. I have seen an SR20 CAS do this before when it had very low voltage. Your battery voltage in the cranking log is a little low but not particularly bad so Im not sure that is the problem in this case but either voltage or a faulty CAS is the only things I can think of that would cause chucks of several teeth to disappear from the signal. So I would start at the CAS power supply anyway, check the 12V supply on the CAS is actually near full bat voltage. Even better - if you have a piece of wire floating around, pull the 12V wire out of the CAS plug and bodge up a temp wire straight from bat + post to the CAS 12V pin to see if it runs better like that. Not related to trigger - but have you done an ignition test on each output to confirm all coils spark and in the correct order? Ign 1 test should have coil 1 sparking, Ign 2 test should make coil 2 spark etc.
  12. Does that diagram show 5V? Never really studied it in detail but my memory feels it shows 12V. Actually come to think of it some of them have reluctors on the exhaust, so you may not even need power. Check it it is 2 or 3 pin sensors on the exhaust, if they are 3 pin then wire them like the intake cam sensors on that quad avcs diagram. If those sensors really need 5V then just splice into one of the intake cams.
  13. I’m not at a pc, but sensor pinouts and wiring will be on that page.
  14. We need the actual saved scope file, not a pic.
  15. Ok sweet, you have caught the problem well in these scopes so it gives us something to investigate. It wasnt captured in the scopes in your previous linked post (assuming it is the same issue). The problem is actually trig 1 there are patches there where it is not coming all the way down to zero volts, (the signal needs to drop below 1.0V to be considered a tooth). I have since learnt that the "extreme noise" on trig 2 is actually caused by the low resolution recording the scope does in some specific modes, so that is nothing to worry about. Example here: I will explain how the trigger input & sensor works to give you a feel for where to look. The ecu has a "pull-up resistor" internally which applies a low current voltage to the trigger circuit (about 3.5V). So if there is nothing connected to the input we will see ~3.5V in the scope. When a tooth goes past the end of the sensor there is effectively a switch inside which connects the trigger input to ground - so it should go down to near zero volts (a ~.5V offset is not unusual). So in those areas where the signal doesnt come all the way down to ~0V, this means the trigger input is not being connected to ground properly - this could be the "switch" inside the sensor failing, or it could be a loose connection somewhere. Im assuming that both the cam and crank sensor connect to a common ground at the front of the engine somewhere. Since we dont see any voltage issue on the cam sensor in the same areas of the scope, we can assume that the ground is ok up to at least the point where it splits off to the two sensors. With it idling I would jiggle/yank/bend all the crank sensor wiring and connectors etc to see if that causes a stall or big error. If not then I would next try replacing the sensor. Im assuming it is the red M12 threaded one? They are generally pretty reliable but since they are only about $80 it is worth replacing to eliminate. If it is the red one then the part number you are looking for is GS100502.
  16. It looks like the pinouts in the manual and help file may not have been updated to include the 2nd exp port. Ill look into that. Note ANV 4, 5, 7 & 8 can be redirected to the expansion port using the jumpers on the bottom board if you are not using them for the factory functions (tgv, maf etc). You dont need to use the main header to access these. Pinouts of the exp ports should be pretty clear on the labels on the board. You can also use the "Vbat" pin to power your flex sensor.
  17. Adamw

    trigger issue

    Pretty easy to test the ecu input. Pull the trig 2 wire out of the ecu plug. It should show near 5ish V on the trig scope. Then poke a paper clip or wire or something into the ecu plug and short trig 2 pin to ground. It should then show 0ish V on the trig scope.
  18. Yeah, im with Vaughan, it looks very much like what you see when the pinout is incorrect to me. But having said that, it looks like this pedal part number only comes in diesel models too - do the diesels even have a throttle? Im not particularly experienced with diesels, but possibly the pedal is only controlling fuel demand and uses something else for runaway safety?
  19. Assuming your injectors flow what the data that defines them says and your lambda is on target then the air mass calculation is correct - your VE must be correct (ignoring the small error from charge temp influence in this case). However, with injectors that large you will be well down in the region where even SPWA wont be enough to deal with the extreme changes in flow gradients and the erratic variation. So there is likely considerable error at idle, even cylinder to cylinder and cycle to cycle variation will be quite significant down at these PW's. So dont sweat it too much. You obviously arent going for economy or emissions with those injectors so who cares. A VE of 55-60% is very typical at idle so you are somewhere in the ballpark. VE & hence air mass will only get more accurate as you increase load and start operating at a PW where the injector behavior is more definable or linear and no longer erratic.
  20. You have a base position of 2.5%, and AC offset of 1.0, a fan offset of 0.5 and a dashpot offset of 0.5%. So instead of the throttle sitting at the normal ~2.5% base position it is sitting at 4.0%. You need to set up these offsets only what is needed to keep the RPM on target. For example, if you are idling on target with the fan and AC off at 2.5% TPS, you then force the fan on and watch what the closed loop moves the throttle to to keep the idle correct - say it moves to 2.7%. Then your fan offset should be 0.2%. Then do the same for AC and PS. This will be your dashpot or base position too small.
  21. Adamw

    Wont start

    Its hard to see in that pic but looks like the voltage on trig 2 is very low, if Im seeing it right it is only about 0.5V from low to high. It will need to rise above 1.5V and fall below 1.0V to be accepted as a valid tooth. I have never seen an OEM sensor that didnt output an adequate voltage so I assume there is either a wiring issue or the sensor is faulty in this case. I rarely use the save as picture button but I think I have seen that before. Best to use the save as log function anyhow, then you can check edge alignment and voltages etc in a time plot.
  22. Possibly also 0 in G4X. When adding trigger modes to the G4X, if the engineers have confident info of the normal trigger offset they will build it into the trigger code so the offset is close to zero to make first time setup easier for new users. I cant tell you off the top of my head whether the G4X 2NZ mode has the offset built-in or not.
  23. K3-VE normally has 36-2-2-2 on the crank (like a subaru), 2NZ only has one gap, 36-2. Having said that it looks like the ecu is happy with the trigger in your log. Did you check the base timing? Did you try the offset +360? It looks like all the basics are working in the log so would suggest a spark timing issue. Some of the OEM trigger modes have offset built in in the G4X where as G4+ some didnt.
  24. Can you do a new trigger scope so we can see if the cam sensor signal is now any better.
  25. No that wouldnt usually be an issue. Electrical noise issues typically show up closer to peak torque when the ignition system is under maximum load. Do you know anyone with an oscilloscope or bigger ecu with the scope function built in?
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