Adamw

What ECU do you have? Only some of them have high side drive aux outputs, generally they are low side drive so the ecu is controlling the ground side of the relay.

In most cars the starter switch would excite the solenoid directly, whereas the ecu aux would only be switching the coil of a relay to drive the solenoid, so assuming yours is like this they should be isolated from each other.

No, very different hardware so very different code.

Yeah everything looks ok ecu wise and your wiring sounds good. I would say most likely trigger offset is 360 out.

Hello, Your MAP limit is set to 0 so you have 100% fuel cut applied all the time.

No, the throttle is not working at all in that log. I suspect the throttle is only being moved by the cable. Both of your APS sensors and the TPS sub are not working.

This should be set to cam, not crank. You have 24 teeth inside a distributor that is driven by the camshaft.

If the sensors are 3 wire then pull-ups should be on, if 2 wire then pull-ups off. With the speed DI, assuming 3 wire, if you unplug the sensor and short the signal pin to ground with a paperclip or piece of wire etc, the DI should turn on for a second or two everytime you touch the signal to ground or remove the ground. For the cam sensor you can do a similar test, you will have to temporarily change it to "GP input", pull-up on, ground the signal wire should show "ON". If neither of these work then check you have 12V coming out of that signal wire with nothing connected.

Are the pull-ups on?

Hello, The trigger scope looks ok and it appears the ECU is happy with the pattern. What engine? Can you attach the ECU config (.pclx), and a PC Log of it cranking would be helpful.

Im not sure that I understand your question. I suspect maybe the logging frequency is giving you the impression that some events arent happening in the correct sequence?

Ok, havent sold those for even longer... I will send you a PM.

Can you make sure the 2 TPS sensors are wired per the help file. TPS main I dont think will matter, but the TPS sub stops working at one end, and that dead patch is now at the wrong end. Also confirm that the clutch is wired to Aux 7. Then please log a TPS cal procedure.

Yeah they only happen when you stop cranking from what I could see, the is pretty normal, as the crank slows down the next tooth takes longer than expected to arrive at the sensor so the ECU cant tell if it is a missing tooth or loss of signal.

This is the best way I can think of doing it: Use a GP PWM frequency table for gear ratios. Numbers in this table are RPM/kmh for each gear. Then use a math block to divide RPM by gear ratio (CAN aux freq).

Add "Knock system status" to your log set, this will tell you why it is locked out. Log TPS delta also so you know what kind of delta lockout value is needed. I agree with KO, you have a bit of both TPS Low and TPS delta lockouts occurring.

You could possibly try something like a 500ohm potentiometer in place of the resistor so you can more easily experiment

Right, try this one. jzs171dbwwontcalibrate test 2.pclx

If im reading that scope correctly it looks to me like the waveform is switching between about 4V and 7V. For G4X it needs to fall below about 1V and rise above about 2V from memory.

Possibly a wiring issue. Can you check the gap with a piece of cardboard or plastic or similar? It wants to be <1mm, more like 0.5mm.

The scope is in AC mode so cant really see what the high and low voltage is. Can you see if you can find a "coupling" setting and set it to dc. Usually under channel settings where you set v/div etc. .

The log shows the TPS following the pedal, but if you think it is working back to front then the TP cal may be backwards. Can you just power up and with no foot on the pedal (APS= 0) tell me if throttle is open or closed. And what does TPSmain read at the same time.

You dont need to use ohms, set it in volts. You can view the volts in each gear in the runtimes screen, analog tab.

I dont see much wrong. Can you load this file, start logging and do a couple of pedal presses. jzs171dbwwontcalibrate test.pclx

Trigger looks ok to me. You only clock an error or two when you stop cranking which is pretty normal. Are you sure it is not just the fuel tune? You have very little crank enrichment for a cold start with E85, typically you would be up nearer to 500%. If you give it a squirt of starter fluid next time does it kick straight away?