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Adamw

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Everything posted by Adamw

  1. The idle valve is usually plumbed to both sides of the throttle as a bypass. So under boost you have the same pressure on both sides of the valve.
  2. Yeah I dont see anything wrong with the ecu set up. Sure you are connected to the correct ecu pin? What happens if you set aux 2 test to on? And also try GP PWM1 output set to none.
  3. Does it stay live with the fuel pump relay unplugged? What are your other auxes connected to?
  4. If you are holding the signal wire on ground the fan should be off, is that what happens?
  5. Adamw

    ignition switch input

    Ok, if I understand you correctly, this example below would work. To explain Pump 2 operation, for engine RPM below 401 pump 2 will run at 50% speed only when pump 1 is running (so for prime and cranking). When the engine is running (RPM above 401) then pump 2 speed will be varied according to injector duty cycle. In this example pump 2 would start at 20% speed when injector duty cycle exceeds 40%, then will ramp up to 100% speed for 80% injector duty cycle.
  6. Adamw

    ignition switch input

    Do you need both pumps to run at first power up for priming or just pump 1? Do you want pump 2 run all the time or only under certain conditions?
  7. Adamw

    DBW antilag help

    I dont have a vast ALS experience, but I would say not enough retard, you need to get that heat out of the combustion chamber and into the exhaust manifold instead. I prefer to use the absolute degrees retard mode so that the ignition table doesnt have an influence. Your ignition is still about 6deg BTDC during overrun in that log (ie 33 in the main ign table -27 in the als retard table = +6) More typical ignition timing off throttle with ALS would be more like 20-40ATDC. And I suspect you probably still need more throttle opening too - best to start with less and creep up on it, but more typically around 15-20% minimum opening.
  8. Adamw

    4AGZE trigger issues

    Multitooth position should be cam (not crank) assuming you have the distributor base with the 24T wheel in it.
  9. Adamw

    ignition switch input

    What model car? Can you do a diagram of how the fuel pump is wired.
  10. I suspect it will mostly be your fuel density setting is 1/10 of normal so ecu will be injecting 10X more fuel volume to get the correct mass. I would also suggest changing fuel system type to MAP referenced if the engine has a typical regulator that tries to keep fuel pressure relative to manifold pressure.
  11. Adamw

    ignition switch input

    Not sure what you mean here, how do you want the fuel pump to work?
  12. Were those scopes done with the engine cranking or running? If done when running that cam sensor voltage hasnt increased at all. It would almost suggest a wiring issue like it is missing a ground or something. If you unplug the ecu and measure resistance between pin 7 and 9 in the ecu loom plug what do you get?
  13. Sorry I havent yet, I was working away for a week, then had a few days off last week. Will get onto it now.
  14. If it is the newer "Street" version with the 34pin plug on the back then you dont need the vnet module. If it is the older one with the 8pin DT plug then it needs the vnet module. The hub should be no drama.
  15. Adamw

    Aux Out (Ign) voltage

    The other option is just add a 12V pull-up to the ign output for the tacho. You can do this at the ecu plug or tacho end.
  16. I remember my evo 6 had one up on one of the cam cover bolts, but I looked at my evo 7 yesterday and couldnt see one so suspect yours never did. Yeah I agree it is worth changing that cam sensor. I remember the older G4+ would keep running without the cam so you could use that as a test but G4X has more robust error checking and Im not sure if I have ever tried unplugging the cam with G4X.
  17. Adamw

    4AGZE trigger issues

    If still no go with essb00's suggestions, can you do another triggerscope too. The earlier one showed the ecu was ignoring some teeth, the arming thresholds suggested above should have solved that but would like to confirm.
  18. Adamw

    ignition switch input

    The Ign switch digital input is not specifically needed in most cases. It is mostly only used in applications with a stepper motor idle valve which means the ecu needs to stay alive for a while after the engine shuts down so the idle valve can reset and park. In this case the ignition switch input is used to tell the ecu to kill the engine (but ecu stays powered up). In most other applications (solenoid idle valve, drive by wire, or no idle valve) the ignition switch in the car just completely shuts power off to everything including the ecu at the same time.
  19. I think I remember one case where doing this melted an ignition coil as it was constantly charging (you could unplug the coils for first power up). If you have a COP engine then checking the coil pins as per the note below should confirm before fitting.
  20. Yeah if it originally had 2.5L with DBW then it would likely have the WRX104 or WRX107 ecu (you need to confirm by checking the presence of the A1/2/3 pins as per the note on our webpage below). Yeah that would be what we call a "V7-9" engine and will likely have VR sensors on the cams. You will just need to change the plugs on the loom. Generally considered a much better engine than the 2.5. I dont know these engines well enough to know if the DBW throttle fits onto the V7-9 manifold so there may be changes needed there. Most of the other wiring that I can think of shouldnt need much work to fit.
  21. Yeah it is very odd that it can move quickly in one direction and not in the other. It is nothing to do with your pedal that was mentioned earlier so forget about swapping that. I discussed your case with Simon yesterday who is our most experienced tech, like me he couldnt think of an external issue that would cause the low voltage output you appear to have here, we feel there is still possibly an ecu issue here that we missed. We looked over the testing that was done to your ecu when it came back and although extensive, there are possibly a couple of failure scenarios where the testing we done may not have loaded the outputs enough and could have missed the problem. Before asking you to send it in again, can you give us a bit more background (since you called it a project car)... Is it a matched engine/chassis/loom? ie not a DBW engine in a non DBW chassis etc? The voltage measurements that you done earlier - I assume you done at the throttle body. Can you repeat at the ecu end (you might have to use a pin or backprobe to reach the terminal. Have you tried another throttle?
  22. This is two different subjects. This post that you are replying in was asking if inj 5 & 6 can be used for a 6 cyl engine, the answer is yes. The other post that you link to is about DI3 and Ign 4 which control the hold power circuit in the car and cant be used for other functions. There have been no changes to the Evo3 bottom board.
  23. The factory ECU was only ever designed to work with one specific engine and with only a 2 tooth crank wheel, so they can put a massive amount of filtering and other software tricks to mask any noise. An aftermarket ecu on the other hand has to be flexible enough to work with almost any trigger system and the G4X can work with up to 200 teeth on the crank, so there are less options to mask noise. Having said that, we rarely see an issue like this on any engine, and if I think about Evo's specifically there are some fairly serious Evo drag cars around running G4X successfully. It is however difficult to diagnose an issue like this on the road with little diagnostic gear. An issue like this is much easier to solve when you can for example reproduce it in a controlled environment on a dyno with an oscilloscope connected to the triggers to see what the actual problem is. At the moment I am really just guessing it is noise, but as you say it could be a failing sensor or something else. Cam sensors are pretty prone to fail in the Evo's since they are close to the turbo heat, but Im pretty sure with G4X you can unplug the cam and it will still keep track using crank only (can you try unplugging cam sensor with engine idling to see if it keeps running) - in which case we could rule that out. Do the coil grounds connect to a good clean point on the cyl head? Do you still have the factor supressor on the coil power supply (Im pretty sure evo's had them).
  24. Do an ecu log of it cranking. Here is a guide: https://youtu.be/_P1LRANeO4A
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