Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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Not easily. There was a manufacturing oversight with the JZX100 adapter board which left CAN1 unconnected. It could be done by soldering a couple of wire links in but that would want to be done by Link or someone experienced. Does the device not have a selectable bitrate?
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Is the bitrate set to 1mbit? The JZX CAN2 has the multiplex converter on it which runs at 1Mbit so anything connected will also need to use 1mbit. Some OBD2 devices maynot support 1mbit.
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It sounds like a bad connection then if wiggling the cable causes it to disconnect and reconnect.
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It should work as is with no changes. Make sure pull-up is off and active state is set to high.
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I havent tested this but the example below should give you something similar to what you describe. The kill switch is wired to DI4 and the tracker to DI3.
Virtual aux 1 is used for the "kill conditions" - If the engine isn't running and either the kill switch or tracker inputs are active then VA1 will be true. When VA1 is true the GP RPM limit will be using the bottom row of the table - i.e RPM limit is 0, so the engine wont start.
If the tracker/DI3 is activated when the engine is running then that will start timer 1 running, the GP limit table will be working in the top row which has the RPM limit reducing to 0 over 40 seconds.
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Just the CAN, leave the analog disconnected.
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Does windows do the normal "dingdong" when you plug the cable in?
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Assuming you do have free play in the cable and the blade is not sticking then it would most likely be a worn sensor or bad ground/ground offset.
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Yeah, no point in connecting the boost gauge.
For the other two, just connect AEMNet + to CAN H and AEMNet- to CAN L.
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Zero out that fuel trim on cyl 2 to see if that has anything to do with it.
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Your engine is making no vacuum so something doesnt seem happy there. Cam timing out maybe? Have you confirm ignition timing is correct?
You can try setting the idle ignition control MAP lockout to something like 110Kpa so it still kicks in without vacuum, but it seems more like something is mechanically wrong if it cant produce manifold vacuum at idle.
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It should be a 4 pin plug for the USB. They originally came with a short adapter lead with a mini USB bulkhead connector on the other end that you can mount in a dash panel or similar.
This one here: https://www.aimshop.com/products/aim-usb-adaptor-719-binder
You can make your own fairly easily if you can solder, I just cut the end off a random USB cable I had sitting around and soldered the binder plug on. The binder plug is part number 09-9767-70-04, you can get from RS components or similar.
Pinout is here: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0214/9392/files/Adattatore_USB_eng.pdf
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I have made some small adjustments that will hopefully be a step in the right direction. I have turned off over-run fuel cut for now as that was some of the cause of the stall during initial starting. I would usually only enable this near the end of the tuning process. You can use the file compare function to highlight other changes.
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I would not drive it hard until the tune is confirmed as safe. If it never made boost at 4000RPM before then that region of your ignition table would never have been tuned so it couldn't be assumed to be ok. Your ignition table looks a little aggressive for a 4G63 in my experience and there is no knock control setup so I wouldnt risk it.
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Does that gauge have a vent on it? I cant see it in the picture, but I wouldnt trust it if it doesnt have a vent. Usually there is a little rubber plug that you poke a pin hole through.
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Every map I can find from 2JZ NA and TT non-vvt has the trigger offset close to 0, say +/-10 at the most. So it suggests something is way out if your offset of 120 shows the correct spark timing.
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No I dont see anything obvious in there. But 1 thing that is a bit odd in that log is just a few seconds after that point the differential fuel pressure jumped up to 330kpa from 300, and that's when the CLL correction started going back to normal. The fuel pump was still in low speed mode the whole time. So possibly whatever caused that jump in fuel pressure could be affecting other things (loose battery terminal or something like that?)
You can usually roughly consider MAP x RPM as a strong relationship to airflow and injector effective PW is proportional to fuel flow, these were both stable before and after the jump in lambda and the jump in fuel pressure, so with stable air and fuel flow you should have a stable AFR (FYI, inj PW doesnt include the CLL trim), this suggests to me the change in fuel delivery is some external influence.
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This appears to be a wiring issue. The noise that Laminar shows above occurs accross two teeth, 4 times per distributor rotation and roughly near TDC, so this would be the area where the coil is being dwelled. Most likely you have a poor ground connection to the ignitor, so the ignitor current is finding an easier path through the trigger ground.
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The voltage reported by the ECU is measured between the power ground plane (example pin 107 or 108) and the main supply on pin 49 & 59.
Pin 49&59 are supplied by the ECCS relay. There is only the ecu, CAS and airflow meters connected to the ECCS relay output so very little current, probably <1A.
However, none of this is going to affect your differential fuel pressure, so I would focus on solving that first. Slightly low voltage at the ecu is only going to affect the deadtime accuracy by maybe 0.1ms and maybe dwell by about the same, of course it is something that should be fixed before final tuning, but it is unlikely to cause any tuning difficulties.
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I think you should be able to do that with the existing analog gear position table.
An example, assuming you only have 1 reverse gear then your highest CAN value received would be 0x11 or 17 in decimal. We only have 5.00V input range for an analog gear pos sensor so divide the incoming CAN data by 4. 0x11 or "17" would be received as 4.25V. Assign this to R in the Gear pos table. N would be 0V, 1st would be 0.25V, etc.
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This is a G1 LinkPlus. The manual is in the sticky topic at the top of the G1 forum, link here: https://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2537
You will need PC Link V2.5 from here: https://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLinkV2.5Setup.exe
The comlink device can use either the USB B or the serial if you had an old laptop with a serial port. For the direct USB method I think the newer G4+ drivers attached to this post should work as the original ones are unlikely to install in modern windows.
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Subaru Clutch Switch
in G4x
Posted
Cruise switch is irrelevant. You should have 12V coming from fuse 18 to the clutch switch, from there it goes through the normally closed switch, straight to ecu pin A1. So A1 should see 12V when the clutch isn't pressed and 0V when it is pressed.