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Adamw

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Everything posted by Adamw

  1. Adamw

    Clutch switch delay

    You dont need the 3D launch mode if all you want is a delay. You already have a "Race Timer" set up which starts counting up when you let go of the clutch, so you can use this same timer. So all you need to do is set up virtual aux 1 as a GP output like below, change the launch activation control to Virtual aux 1. The "0.300s" is the amount of time the launch will stay active for after the clutch is released.
  2. @Krystian I will PM you a new firmware to test.
  3. Correct. You can shorten the tooth (b1) down to the pole diameter (3.5mm on the drawing), so you can pick up a little space there. I wouldnt want the gaps (b2) to be shorter than the teeth (b1), so if you cant achieve the diameter you want with the teeth and gaps no less than 3.5mm long then you would be best to reduce tooth count or find a sensor with a smaller pole. Not too critical, I like to place it outside of the normal range of ign timing so 60BTDC or 60ATDC is a good option on a 6cyl. It is not critical, the trigger offset is set in the software when the engine is running. You can just use the 3 teeth on the HKS cam as both your sync (phase) and VVT position, you dont need a separate sync sensor. This would use the "Cam window" sync option.
  4. If you exceed the bounds of a table it will use the value from the closest cell. So for your example table above, if you ran the engine at 5.8psi boost and 8000RPM it would use a value of 4deg. If you ran the engine at 20psi boost and 4000RPM it would use a value of 25deg. If you ran the engine at 20psi and 8000RPM it would use 8deg.
  5. Adamw

    Clutch switch delay

    Can you attach your tune. A few ways to do this, but I would probably use 3D launch mode, then you can put a timer on the axis and do what you ask - or if you wanted too you could then get more sophisticated and slowly ramp the limit up over 0.3seconds for example
  6. Blue and green swapped wouldnt matter. There is something wrong in the wiring if the fault codes are all telling you the analog inputs are all at ground. That is why I suggested this: So, get the TPS signals working first, then you can worry about the throttle once those are right.
  7. Adamw

    Monsoon Fault Code

    Not sure how to make it any clearer. Nobody can help you without a log showing the problem or the tune so we can see your config. Dont go changing parts with no diagnosis. I cant see any point in buying a new throttle body.
  8. Adamw

    Injector Deadtime Table

    Looks like it needs to be done with the ECU online. Attached your updated map with 3D deadtimes enabled. 665710010_Atual(FirwareUpdated).pclr
  9. I would first experiment with some measured volumes to see how closely the reported ethanol content from the sensor follows real content. I have seen a few others say it is not 1:1. You will need this to ensure the multi fuel blend table is set up correctly. Otherwise it will be the same as an ethanol blend set up. Enter the fuel properties for the primary fuel, tune it, then switch to multifuel mode, enter fuel properties for the secondary fuel, change fuel, check tune.
  10. Adamw

    Managing Attachments.

    Best to use google drive or one drive etc. You can remove old attachments from old posts but then they arent there for anyone in the future that has a similar question/problem. The reason the allowance is quite tight is forum hosts change based on number of vistors to the site and the total data storage. And the data part is expensive. So we give each user enough allowance to get started and learn their way around etc, then when they need more they can use one of the many other sharing options.
  11. Your tuner should be fired, what you are seeing is exactly the reason you cant use speed density with ITB's. It is a pretty basic tuning fundamental. You will need to start from scratch in Alpha N. Set up the TP axis with fine increments at small openings, then you can use bigger breakpoints as it opens more. I will attach a 20V fuel table that you can import as a starting point. VTC cams generally you only need to switch based on RPM - as all intake resonance is related purely to frequency. Generally the way to find the best switch points is to do two dyno ramps, one with VTC off for the whole run and one with VTC on for the whole run. Overlay the two run power or torque graphs and the best switch points are where the two lines cross. You can do a table if you wish but it is not normally needed, I suspect the factory was doing that only to reduce pumping losses at low loads for economy/emissions. 4AGE 20V ITB fuel table.lte
  12. Adamw

    NS13X no start

    As Kenny suggests, it doesnt look like you have set the base timing. The offset is often around -100deg in SR20's, but varies a lot from engine to engine. However it is rarely zero. Yes, turn off fuel so it doesnt kick back and you should be able to get a timing flash on it. Start with the offset at -100 as that will likely put the mark somewhere you can see it. .
  13. What device are you looking at?
  14. If its a NA engine then yes TP on the fuel table and BAP as the load equation source will be the best option for fueling. However that is probably not going to help much, a bridgeport "jerking" is nothing out of the ordinary... With the new window cut into the combustion chamber this means the intake port never closes, usually the main port is significantly opened up and the exhaust port is raised at the same time, so you have massive overlap, usually coupled with a very low mass flywheel - so the same reason it pulses at idle is the reason it pulses when driving at low RPM. Even stock engines do the overun surge which is why they had fluid coupling flywheels etc on the luxury models. You may be able to tame it a little by running quite retarded ign timing in the RPM range it occurs, but you need to watch EGT as well.
  15. Adamw

    Opel c20xe need help

    I would say the most likely cause is the minimum voltage after the first tooth (green line) creeps up as RPM increases until it no longer crosses zero. I like your idea with welding the extra metal into the gap, but I suspect due it being a separate piece of metal the ferromagnetism doesnt work like a single piece of iron. I have seen weld repaired teeth completely mess up the signal. To bring the green line down lower in voltage what we need to do is reduce the maximum voltage as the first tooth is approaching the sensor (yellow line). You could try increasing air gap which will lower all voltages. I have doubts whether this will help much. You could try adding a resistor inline (series) with the trigger 1 wire. You will need to experiment with resistance value but I would say 3K-10K would be what I expect would help the most. You could try adding a resistor across the sensor +/- wires to apply some load. Again resistance value will need some experimentation but it will be lower in this case, more like 300ohm at a guess. Another option, you may be able to drill out the center of the OEM sensor and screw a hall sensor into it. Something like ZF GS100702 usually work ok with small 60-2 teeth (they need a stronger pull up resistor for high tooth count).
  16. Its still a long way off target in some areas though, I wouldnt really call that "working as expected", not even really acceptable. You can use the file compare function to see the difference between the two maps. Still needs PID tuning.
  17. Adamw

    Monsoon Fault Code

    Unlikely anything related to an update since the problem only started after you had it apart. At a very wild guess it sounds like possibly the TPS isnt working, since that would mean overrun fuel cut would kick in when you try to rev it, but I would want to see a log to confirm.
  18. I dont think the ground location will be too critical. The general idea is you want the return back to the power source via the shortest route. Most OEM's have the supressor grounded on the engine, but you could argue whether the source was actually the battery or Alternator when running at high load.
  19. The tooth should ideally be about the same length as the pole diameter - up to about 1.5X the dia is generally ok. The pole diameter is shown in the pic below. The length of the gaps do not matter. A more detailed explanation is here: With a missing tooth crank wheel and sync mode set to Cam Pulse 1X, all the ecu does is checks if it saw a cam edge in the last crank rotation or not. Whether it saw a tooth or not it can determine which phase it is on from that.
  20. Look in the log at the 3 E-throttle error accumulators, look for the problem where the error counter climbs to say higher than 10. It needs to reach 100 for the fault code to be reported.
  21. What ECU are we talking about? A plug-in I assume?
  22. Adamw

    Monsoon Fault Code

    The fault code is probably because you had the TPS sensor unplugged. ie it is not a current fault - it was only a fault when you had it unplugged.
  23. Adamw

    Evo DBW

    4 & 6 are the TPS signals, these need to go to 2 separate AN volt inputs.
  24. The manual is correct, Aux 1 goes to 106 & 113, it is used for the fuel pump controller in GTR's and VTC in RB25 models. No cars have both devices hence the same aux can be used. Aux 5 is not connected. You have Ign 7 & 8 and Aux 11 on the expansion loom you can use, or possibly aux 2 is free on the main header - GTS dont normally have fuel pump speed control.
  25. It wont make any noise if you have it set to quiet mode in the software. It wont attempt to move until all the calibrations are done, there are no errtors, and it is happy with the signals from everything.
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