Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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Are you sure that's the right log? This log shows a 10sec start up hold, 10sec decay, idle in open loop and still excessive idle ign. So it appears to be using all the old settings.
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Crank sensor is wrong polarity in these scopes.
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Nothing much looks out of place in any of your data. In the log it appears everything is there that is needed for a spark. I wonder if it is just the offset is off by quite a bit and causing the spark to occur when the distributor rotor is not pointing at a post in the cap.
If you turn the engine to TDC1 by hand and pull the distributor cap off then give us a photo of where the "sync tooth" is in relation to its sensor I should be able to estimate whether the offset is in the ballpark or not.
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Can you attach a copy of the tune and a short log of it cranking.
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If you can find the motec document which shows which pins are "non oem functions", then Im happy to check if those same pins are available on our ECU and which IO would be best to connect to them.
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Typically if idle ign is set up well it will take care of instantaneous load changes much better than the idle valve.
However if you want to vary idle position based on electrical load, then you could either;
- use the "GP Idle Source" function to add an offset and/or increase target when the load goes above a certain value (set up a GP Output/virtual aux to specify the conditions).
- Second option is just to put electrical load on the Y axis of your idle base position and Idle target tables.
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Our ecu wasnt designed that way, but provided the pins the Motec plug-in used as expansion and those same pins are unused on our header then you could possible solder in some wire links to connect our expansion pins to the correct pins on the header.
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13 hours ago, Kikih said:
How would this event present itself while the engine was running,
You would likely see significant timing drift when performing the ign delay test during trigger calibration, and I would expect in logs and on screen etc at some points there would likely be significant dwell scatter.
13 hours ago, Kikih said:The piston that melted was cylinder 3
Depends what you mean by "melted". Ign timing can cause knock - but this would usually break things rather than melt them. Melting is generally pre-ignition which can be caused by lean mixtures or something "glowing" in the combustion chamber such as an incorrect heat range spark plug or wrong head gasket bore size etc
13 hours ago, Kikih said:how would this cause the coilpack to melt, is it constantly triggering creating heat?~
The "dwell time" is how how long you have the ign coil "turned on" for. When the coil is "dwelling" the power you are feeding into it is being stored as a magnetic field. Eventually this magnetic field reaches saturation (with an R8 coil it is around say 3ms). Once it saturates then any further energy you put into it after that point is just making heat - it is not having any impact on the amount of energy stored in the coil. The longer you have it "dwelling", also means there is less time between each dwell event to cool.
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This is idle ignition control and is normal to bounce around a lot at idle. Ignition timing can increase and decrease torque much quicker than the idle valve can so you want the ign timing to do the majority of the instantaneous correction and the idle valve looks after the longer term error. Yours is bouncing a bit more violently than typical since your proportional gain is very high.
Set your idle ign proportional gain to 1.0 and the derivative to 0.0 would typically be about all you need. If you go too high with proportional you will feel the idle get rough.
4 hours ago, supra11487 said:Now when I start it it will run great for 15 to 45 seconds then the ignition angle gauge in the tuning screen starts fluctuating badly
This is because during the start up hold and decay (you have each set to 10seconds, idle ign is disabled and the ign is held static at the idle ign target. The hold and decay of a couple of seconds each is normally all that is needed.
Does your idle valve actually work? Doesnt really look like it is in the log. As a test with ign on, engine not running, put aux 5 in test mode and set frequency to 10Hz to see if you can hear it clicking.
Change the settings in orange below will likely give you a better starting point.
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12 minutes ago, untouchablecc said:
As far as I can tell the nissan p12 cam sensor only bolts in 1 way. They keyway is larger on one end going into the cam.
Ah yeah, most SR20s have a gear on the CAS that can be inserted in any position. Suspect the VE one cant be if it is keyed.
The best quick visual reality check for cam timing on a DOHC engine is turn the engine to TDC#1, pull the cam cover off. Front lobes on both cams should be pointing up and outwards - usually about 45deg ish depending on valve train geometry.
Here is a sr20 at roughly TDC1 compression:
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It certainly looks closer but there is still something wrong.
The trigger 2 pattern should show 3 skinny slots every 90degs then a single wide slot in the 4th 90deg spot. But you also have a weird group of 4 extra teeth just next to the wide slot and trig 1 signal gets a bit messed up at the same time.
I have seen the Nissan CAS's do weird stuff like this if the voltage supply to them is very low (such as cranking on a flat battery). So assuming the battery is good you may have to take another look at the CAS power supply. You can also look at what the battery voltage is dropping to in a PC Link log while cranking to see if that is acceptable or not.
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4 hours ago, Julien said:
I noticed the lambda2 value is rounded and shows only 1 so I can’t check the discrepancy between the 2 banks under load that I’m trying to level.
That problem should have been fixed in the latest PC Link - so check on our website that you are up to date. I believe it would only happen under an odd situation of freshly opened PC Link with no map open so it took anyone a long time to notice it.
You can check your PC Link version in >help>about
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Nothing much looks out of place in your log. If your timing light shows roughly correct timing then you could still possibly be 360 deg out - but your trigger offset of -108 is in the normal ballpark for an SR20 (CAS can be inserted in wrong position though). So it wouldnt hurt to try the offset at 252 also just to be sure.
Another good test is a spray of starter fluid when cranking - that then completely eliminates any fuel related possibilities and allows you to concentrate on spark or compression/cam timing.
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Attach the triggerscope of it cranking.
Your symptoms suggest the crank sensor was always wired incorrect polarity and no one noticed with the G4+. With the crank sensor wired the wrong way the cam sensor would sometimes cross over a crank tooth at a certain RPM or set of operating conditions and cause a loss of position. When the ecu has lost position it cant just fire a random spark at the planed time at an unknown position (some bad ecu's do!) Instead the ecu must stretch or shrink the dwell out until it re-establishes correct crank position and can fire that coil in the right place. This would usually happen right before or after the sync event - so likely always on the same cylinder - so this would explain the fried #3 coil. The G4X does further validations before and after every sync event and wont even fire a spark if not happy - so the inverted polarity would have been immediately obvious with the G4X.
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E-throttle power is done internally on the evo plug-in so you dont need to wire a physical relay, you just need to assign an unused aux to E-throttle relay 1. I would suggest Aux 16 since you cant use it for anything else.
Assign aux 4 to "E-throttle signal 1" and Aux 9 to "E-throttle signal 2".
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That haltech note is actually wrong by the looks. Pin 3 is the 4X (trig 2) and pin 4 is the 360X (trig 1). However, even with those swapped you still should have seen a signal. Your triggerscope shows nothing.
Have you got power and ground on distributor pins 5 & 6?
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The trigger issue that was causing the injector timing to change by 360deg during intermittent startups has been fixed. We dont see any further possibilities related to firmware.
Also note, injector timing will only affect idle and low load AFR. At 6000RPM your injector duty cycle is 71%, this means the injector is open for 511 crank degrees. Injector timing of port injectors that are close to the intake valve has almost no effect when the duty cycle is above about 30%.
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Can you give us a log of it cranking.
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I dont see any significant difference in those last two logs. At the beginning there is a difference because one run has the fan running,the other doesnt and the coolant temp is 4deg lower, idle valve is open more, MAP is higher. At higher RPM/load the lambda looks pretty similar in places where other data matches. One run that is about 5% leaner at high RPM, but has lower coolant temp, lower air temp and the fan off compared to the richer run. I would say the 5% difference is about expected since you dont have charge temp compensation enabled.
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3 minutes ago, k fuku said:
Am I correct in assuming that the O2 narrow sensor is normally not connected?
It is not set up to be used in our base map. Most performance users would fit a wideband instead. But if the car is only a basic road car some may want to continue to use the narrowband for catalytic convertor function.
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I suspect that sensor is the same one we sell which I have recently learnt is no good for the DBW or pedal. The reason is the two outputs dont work over the same mechanical angle. ie one output only works with the sensor between say 0 & 120deg, the other output only works from -120 to 0deg.
The "redundant output" sensor that you need for DBW looks identical but has a slightly different part number.
The one we sell and I suspect Haltech (not suitable) is XPD-2832-812-214-911-00
The one you want with 2 outputs that work over same angular range: XPD-2832-811-214-911-00
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On 6/16/2022 at 7:35 AM, Simon Trent said:
found this old thread in the g4+
G4X is more flexible. Below is all you need to do in G4X if you want an on/off aux controlled by a table: 0.0 where you want the cam off, 1.0 where you want the cam on.
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1 hour ago, k fuku said:
I would like to know the reason why O2narrow sensor is connected to Anv5.
AN Volt 5 is the TGV position. Narrowband O2 is AN Volt 7. We always try to keep most factory devices functional. On this ECU there are jumpers on the PCB so if you want to use AN Volt 4,5,7,8 you can move the jumpers then these inputs are available on the expansion connector instead of the factory header.
1 hour ago, k fuku said:When I check the pin out, there are two start signal connections, Di6 with OEM connector B13 connection and Di8 with C32 connection.
Is it ok to use only OEM connector C32Di8 for push start type?DI8 is starter request signal from the BCM in push button start cars or ign switch in key start models. In most cases you can just use DI8 as the start signal and DI6 is not needed. The DI8 signal is also in series with the clutch switch so the starter wont engage unless clutch pedal is pressed. DI6 is a signal from the starter solenoid. The factory ECU uses DI6 for the precrank prime as this may be in some cases a more accurate indication that the engine is cranking. For example in cars with an immobilizer DI8 doesnt always mean the motor is cranking - it just means someone is asking for the motor to be cranking. DI8 is correct for push button start - our test car is a JDM sti with push button start.
CAN communication with AEM MXS dash
in G4+
Posted
CAN set up looks ok. Can you give us a couple of pics of the wiring. Especially one of the inside of the CANF plug as many get that wrong.