Adamw

I suspect it maybe the USB driver install. Does it look like it gets through most of the PC Link install (green bar progresses to right end) then it pops up the error?

The Haltech gauge is locked to the Haltech protocol, it will need a few custom streams set up to duplicate the haltech messages for the channels he wants. Can you set up your CAN mode tab like below then go to the CAN devices tab and see if it finds a Lambda. Suspect it maybe programmed as something other than Lambda 1.

Is your lambda actually working? I cant see how it would with the existing set-up. What is stream 1 for? (a modified generic dash stream), do you have a dash connected as well?

You have 2 lambdas set up? Is that correct? Which one do you want sent to the gauge? Or the average of the 2?

Try following this: https://youtu.be/U6_izjU4n90

Yes the pins are fine.

Huh? Not sure what you are saying here so I will do a quick example. Two basic factors change with load - engine volumetric efficiency and the charge air density. The charge air density is determined by the MAP sensor and air temp sensor so that is taken care of in the background automatically. The fuel table's job is effectively only to take care of the changes in volumetric efficiency. If you look at the fuel table below as an example - this is from a real engine, I have only rounded off the two orange numbers to make the math easier. This engine idles in the -60Kpa row, you can see as load increases from idle to WOT the fuel table number doesnt actually change much. In fact the bottom 3 rows barely change at all, I could have removed those last two rows and the fuel control would have still been near perfect. To explain how interpolation works - say I were cruising along at 2000RPM, -50Kpa, The ecu would be using a value of 67.5% (ie. half way between the 65% & 70%). If I were cruise at -56kpa then the ecu would be using a fuel table value of 66% (ie 1/5 of the way between 65 & 70). Even if the bulk of my cruising was done at say -50kpa, you would only need to add another row at -50 if the VE change between the -40 & -60 row was not linear.

They will be fine wired directly.

Load your map back in to see if it’s still working

Do you mean during install or it installs ok but you get the error when you try to run pc link?

Right now the only data you have is two sensors that read differently. There is not enough data to tell you if one is correct, which one is correct, or if they are both wrong. They only way you can determine that is with a known good reference. This may be a new sensor or for example your tuners dyno wideband.

The value generated by the table is also linearly interpolated between cells, so it generally doesnt matter where you are working. If there is some area of operation where linear interpolation between two cells doesnt give the outcome you desire then just add a new row/column at the value you want.

Im not sure how that works with any ecu, there is a mechanical limit to how fast the throttle blade can be moved due to the inductance, motor power, inertia of all the gears and spring etc. A typical electronic throttle will take more than 100ms to reach target during fast/large pedal movements. This means the TP doesnt match target for more than 100ms. If that statement above is true you would kill the engine everytime you stabbed the throttle. This is a normal electronic phenomenon known as a floating input, when you have a micro pin not connected to vcc or ground then it "floats" somewhere in between. There are various techniques to work around this but they all reduce the accuracy of the input. The stronger you pull it up or down the larger the effect on accuracy. The analog inputs have a weak pull-down to ground so when disconnected it will drop to 0V. If the voltage received on the analog input goes above or below the set Error High/Error Low, the the input is considered faulty so the measured value will be ignored and overwritten with the set "Error Value". At the same time a fault code will be generated and the CE light will be activated.

If it has the correct plug on it then it is a lsu4.9. The calibration is done by a resistor inside the connector, the calibration is done by Bosch so the sensors are interchangeable without any end user calibration

Possibly, you would have to contact tech support on that.

Yes leave IGF disconnected. ECU pin B57 to Igniter pin T1 ECU pin B56 to igniter pin T2 ECU pin B55 to igniter pin T3

Yes that will be your problem. The wastegate solenoid in the factory loom is connected to the ign switch circuit/pin 45 so something has been changed there. You will need to move this back to an ign switched source.

Further to the info given above by Kris & Brad, the ignitor ground wire would preferably be grounded on the Cyl head or engine block, you get a high voltage flyback out of this wire everytime there is a spark so you want the most direct path back to the source (alternator or battery). And in that ignitor schematic above, Pin 8 is wrong, this is the tacho output and would generally go to the dash, not the ecu. Or if the ecu is driving the tach then this pin would be left unconnected. Pin 4 would generally be not connected when using an aftermarket ECU also.

Correct those IO are not connected to any externally available pins on that ecu.

Yeah I would guess from the documentation you have been given that your loom is only connected to the A & B plugs on the ecu. Lambdas are wired to plug C so I would say your loom probably doesnot include the lambda wiring.

These ones are a bit nicer than most for the money. The have a tiny peg that you can move to change the number of positions. https://www.avioraceusa.com/product/miniature-rotary-switch-12-position-finished/

Sorry it is not really my job to support realdash. You can join the realdash forum and ask there.

This is a Link ECU forum. If you want help with a Haltech ecu you need to ask on their forum.

You can connect the temp sensor signal to pin 6, this is connected to AN Temp 2 at the ecu end. The pressure sensor signal can connect to pin 3, this is AN Volt 2 at the ecu end. The AFM baro pin is not connected to anything at the ecu end. Although you could use the wire to take the flex signal back to the ecu if that was convenient. I believe that wire goes to pin 85 at the ecu end, so you would have to unpin that wire and move it to a DI - for example DI5/pin 44. The ground/5V/12V connections are all ok as you have suggested.

Wheelspeed input via CAN is fine. Most of the plug-in ECU's for modern cars get wheelspeed via the ABS ecu. Not too many wheelspeed to CAN devices in the aftermarket though. ECUmaster and AEM have one I think. CAN DI's can be used for virtual auxes. Since there are so many different ways to acheive things, the best way to see if something is possible is to try to set it up in the software yourself, you will quickly find what is possible and not. List below is what inputs can be received over CAN. You will notice Analog input and digital inputs options are pretty limited compared to hard wired inputs.