Adamw

Yeah the symmetry is a bit unusual but dont think it is the cause of the problem. I think it is those two teeth that get shorter (or at least they dont increase with the others) as RPM increases so they get to the point were they are not reaching the arming threshold. And I dont think it is just the arming threshold set too high as in the 3000RPM scope it looks like one tooth barely exceeds 0V. Even if the flywheel teeth physically dont look different there are other possibilities which are difficult to test such as a casting flaw under the surface or the teeth have been magnetised somehow. I have seen welded teeth do weird stuff for example and have heard stories of triggerwheels messed up just from welding done in close proximity. But it would still be worth starting with a visual to see if there is anything obvious.

Very few other wideband controllers do all the sensor validation checks ours do and would just run the sensor at max current - so testing the suspect sensor with a different controller is not really a valid test. I dont remember any changes to the lambda control in Fury firmware after 6.20.33. There was a lambda start up bug fixed in 6.20.33 was the last change noted. I would still try a new sensor before spending too much time looking at wiring etc. I have heard of the terminals not latching properly and pushing back in some of the cheaper LSU mating connectors so that would be worth a look.

I dont see any easy way to handle this currently. Vaughan says he should be able to change the analog gear detection source to allow CAN and math channels as inputs which would then make it easy. So possibly in 6.22 release.

Do you think it is possible the crank wheel is damaged? Or its been welded or magnetised or something? There are the same two teeth that have low voltage in all your scopes - One is a couple of teeth before the single missing tooth and one is the tooth after the missing tooth gap. Im not sure how accessible it is in your car if if you have already inspected it, but I think it would be worth having a peak if you can. Sometimes you can remove the sensor and see down the hole with a snake cam or mirror. I think it would be these teeth:

Try targeting a richer idle lambda when cold, where you see the big bulge in your lambda 2 it appears you have a misfire on that bank as the lambda becomes very noisy. The misfire is probably due to it being too lean. You can use the lambda target overlay table to remove say 0.1 lambda during warmup.

The few times I have seen this error is was solved with a replacement sensor. In both cases the sensors where potentially fakes as purchased from Amazon or similar. Make sure any replacement sensor is from a reputable source and it has the Bosch secure code on the package that you can check at protect.bosch.com.

Provided the injector data was correct when originally tuned, then the only thing you need to change is the injector data. In modelled mode the main fuel table is VE (air flow) so this shouldnt change when you change injectors. No the fudge factor is only used to adjust the fuel consumption related parameters - this is for functions like the virtual fuel tank, fuel consumption gauges in some OEM dashes etc.

You didnt attach the tune as requested. Did you do any of those scopes while cranking? They look more liker the engine was running?

Looks like it just needs more fuel, your lambda is 1.2 by 1800RPM and getting leaner. Bump your master fuel number up until the lambda is somewhere closer to target when driving, dont worry if it gets too rich at idle, you can adjust the idle area in the fuel table later once you have got the master in the ballpark so that general driving is closer.

Too much air gap I would say. Check cam hasnt got too much end float, and check air gap should be around 0.5mm at a guess.

I think the easiest option will be if we allow the analog gear position source to be assigned to CAN and Math inputs. I suspect that has only been left out as the gear pos input is generally a critical input that needs to be assessed at high speed for proper motorsport gearshift. Ill ask Vaughan if there are any consequences in doing so.

Trigger all looks happy in that scope and is being interpreted correctly, what makes you think there is still a problem?

So how are the gear positions enumerated and transmitted by the compushift? i.e. N = ? R = ? D = ?

Can you do us another triggerscope and a log of it cranking.

With this log from today combined with the one from yesterday we have now tried sending 100% duty cycle to both inlet solenoids independently and the inlet cam hasnt moved. That would suggest there is a mechanical issue with the VANOS on that cam.

I've moved your post to its own thread so it doesnt cause confusion in the other thread you were posting in. Please attach your tune, a log of it cranking, and some information about the car/engine/modifications.

I cant think of any way of achieving that in G4+. The best you could do would be a couple of validation based conditions such as for example between 100-200kpa MAP minimum flow must be 200cc/m, and above 200kpa MAP the minimum flow must be above 300cc.

Yeah, confirming same as essb00. Your log shows an idle position of 40-43% is required to achieve the correct idle RPM when warm, yet your base position table only has 28% in it. You need to get that base position table tuned before messing around with all the other comps.

There are several LSU4.9 part numbers for different length cables etc, all will work. Most common ones: 0258017025 - sometimes PN shortened to 17025. 1M cable. This is the one Link Supply. 0258017123 - 450mm cable. Make sure you only buy from a Bosch dealer or a reputable EFI dealer, there are many companies selling Clones/Fakes.

It almost looks like it is working backwards, can you try setting the pressure solenoid to Aux 5 and bleed to aux 6 to see if that makes any difference. You may have to do the calibration again.

Can you explain what you want to do with the flow sensor. And what ECU do you have?

Yeah not a great option, output will definitely see a significant influence from impedance. I have stacked my tuning one on top of the ecu one before with a long bolt. Otherwise the knock block sensor location is not as critical since the human ear is generally better at differentiating knock from mechanical noise than the ecu is.

So did you check base timing? Did you try lowering master fuel further? Adjust master until it runs smoothest.

The first thing I would suggest is update to the latest firmware (6.21).

Go to >Analog Inputs>MAF Meter and change source to none.