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Everything posted by Adamw

  1. For the EGT's you will need a thermocouple amplifier, I would suggest a CAN bus based one. The ECU master EGT to CAN is relatively cheap and seems to work well. The EGT amp and the dash can both connect to CAN 2 in the main B plug so you will just need a couple of superseal 1.0 sockets for that. I also suggest you query Boomslang about how there loom takes care of the high current TPS signal for the GTR 4wd computer, our GTR plug-in has an extra amplifier circuit added to the adapter board to handle that, a wire-in ECU obviously wont have that. I know haltech sell a seperate black box to do this task but only for the R34, the R32/33 uses a different voltage range so that wont work. I can give you a circuit to make something, but it should really be their job if they are selling a plug & play harness.
  2. Adamw

    Coil pack dwell settings

    Ok, sounds like you have it under control then. If it fouls a plug again after you replace it then you could try a little more dwell, it might need a little more to "burn through" the contamination.
  3. Adamw

    Coil pack dwell settings

    Is it running sequential or wasted spark? I have heard that particular coil doesnt like being run wasted spark and will overheat quickly if run that way. I have used one with good success but it was on a relatively low powered engine so it wasnt working very hard. I dont remember what dwell I used, but I would start around 2ms and only give it more if it misfires.
  4. It sounds like you are on the right track, gear shift control is probably the best way to handle this. Although gear shift control will always give a fixed amount of torque reduction. A possible improvement may be to add a 4D ign table also to add some variable retard based on TP or boost or similar. We need a little more detail to help though. You mention no torque reduction is needed below 40%TP, and you need torque reduction above 85%TP, but what do you want to happen between 40& 85%? Also, you you update to the latest firmware, there have been a number of significant improvements since 5.6.4 that you are running. Knock control processing speed was improved significantly, CLL now has 3D tables for the trims, more virtual auxes etc.
  5. Note there was a mistake in the pinout in the older versions of PC Link. It is correct in the lastest version. Ign 1 = A21&22, Ign 2 = A18, Ign3 = A14, Ign4 = A10. For Ign1 you can use either of the pins. Correct. Correct. If the new sensors are hall effect then you will also need to change that setting and probably turn the pull-ups on.
  6. Yes. Yes, splice the sensor ground out to as many sensors as you like.
  7. Correct, pull-up voltage is not a problem, as long as it is more than 1.5V the ECU will see the signal. The sensor doesnt care so much about voltage on the signal pin, just current.
  8. Adamw

    Which ECU?

    Yes, any of the ECU's will be able to handle that input and it sounds like you could probably also use the ECU to do the job of the SGI5E. Note the Xtreme will do a V8 in Sequential and Direct spark also. Just the speed inputs will be your consideration with that. The Fury with 6 ign drives could still do COP too, they would just be fired in pairs. Yes you can load any G4+ map into any model G4+ ECU. However, it is a fairly basic engine, no VVT, no E-throttle or anything else too extraordinary, it wont be too strenuous to start from scratch if you cant get his file.
  9. Adamw

    Looking into Link Fury

    I agree with Rosso here, The G4+ ECU's have pretty flexible CAN but unless you have a very good understanding of CAN and are capable of sniffing and decoding the original system you are going to have a hard time duplicating it with the Link.
  10. Adamw

    G4 Fury on Rx7 FD3S

    Correct Wiring diagram below. The ECU should control relay #2 & 4. #1 is controlled by the AC unit and #3 is controlled directly by a thermoswitch. I assume G/B means it is either a green and black or gray and black wire that you need to connect to Inj7.
  11. Try these: r31 New CAN.rcg R31 New CAN.pclr
  12. Your throttle control doesnt look bad to me. You might find a small improvement but I dont see much to worry about in your log. A little less P & D and a little more I would probably work better, try p=7, I=0.1 & D=45.
  13. In the DI settings, did you have the pull-up resistor turned on?
  14. Adamw


    See if you can find a pinout online that matches your car and post it here. I believe there are a couple of alternative pinouts for the Mk1 GTO. The common one is very similar to the Evo3 ecu, so the Link Evo3 plug in can be made to work with just a couple of small wiring changes.
  15. Try this: Taken from this which looks kind of official:
  16. Instructions here: https://www.race-technology.com/wiki/index.php/ECUType/ViPECCANInterface Note you dont need to set it up all manually, on the Vipec CAN setup screen click channel 1, then click on the load button and choose the template "RaceTechnologyID100.lcc", then click on channel 2, choose the "RaceTechnologyID101.lcc" etc... To set up the dash end, go to load configuration, then browse to C:\ViPEC\VTS V2\CAN and choose the DASH2PRO generic dash.CMG file in there.
  17. Adamw

    1uz vvti

    map and log would be a good start.
  18. It is not easy at the racepak end as they arent very configurable. We can possibly repurpose one of the channels you are not using. If you attach your ecu and dash config I should be able to have a go when I get a minute.
  19. @TechDave might have something.
  20. Pin 1 = ECU sensor ground (Gnd Out) Pin 2 = ECU Digital input 1-4. Pin 3 = Ign switched +12V source. Polarity doesnt matter. Connect 1 pin to ign switched +12V source, connect the second pin to ECU aux output 1-4.
  21. Adamw

    plug in g4+

    No, completely different hardware. There is a base map in the Link ecu that will generally only need some minor adjustments to get it to run but it will need to be tuned ASAP once running.
  22. Adamw

    plug in g4+

    Yes, it can use all factory sensors and all factory functionality is maintained. Typically you wouldnt use the airflow meters as the ECU has a 4bar MAP sensor onboard. Another common change for a GTR is the air temp sensor, the factory one is there and will work, but it is not a great sensor and is shrouded in quite a heavy boss so is slow responding and prone to heat soak. There are also 2 expansion connectors to allow you to connect extra sensors and accessories if required.
  23. Its really the average that you are after so I would tap both runners and merge them into a single damper. The common canisters that I have seen are just a hollow can full of steel wool.
  24. Adamw

    high level tacho

    Or you can buy a ready made device for ~$25: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TACH-TACHOMETER-SIGNAL-BOOSTER-3-16V-In-48-63V-Out-compare-to-MSD-8920-/142171581596
  25. Adamw

    G4 Fury on Rx7 FD3S

    Either usually works, but sensor ground is preferable for the signal ground on these coils. The signal input on these is TTL logic level so you only need a 0.8V ground offset and you can get a random sparks. It would still be unlikely in normal circumstances to have an offset of 0.8v between cyl head and ECU ground but better to be safe than sorry. I will add that it is fine to connect both the crank sensor grounds and the shield to the same shield/gnd pin. This is how its done in the Link supplied looms. The "Shield/gnd" pins and the "ground out" pins are connected internally and can be used interchangeably. Edit: I just noticed a couple of other mistakes: Boost solenoid needs switched +12V on one side, ECU aux on the other (cant high side drive a boost solenoid). The pressure sensor pinouts look wrong, usually the center pin is the signal.
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