Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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Setting it to on will not affect any settings, only enables the error checks.
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Most likely the ABS uses a differential input rather than referencing ground. Have you only connected one wire?
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You cant use "cam pulse 1X" sync mode because your cam has 3 teeth on it. 2NZ trigger mode should work. You will need to set base timing.
You will need to assign a TPS sensor, your coolant temp sensor is not working, and you will need a wideband lambda to tune it.
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Do not drive the car with it in set-up mode, all safeties are completely disabled. This is why a warning pops up everytime you connect to the ecu saying "Vehicle must not be driven"...
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I moved to the G4+ forum as you posted in the G4 forum and there is no G4 Fury. So I assume you have a G4+ or G4X.
The Fury has aux outputs capable of both high side drive (+12V) and lowside drive (switch to ground). Aux 5,6,7,8 can do high or low side, all the others can do lowside only. Obviously these dont power the fuel pump directly, they just switch the fuel pump relay on and off.
Lowside drive wired like below is the most common:
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Latched launch mode has all you want I think. Set up a GP output for your TPS >35% activation, all the rest is built-in to the function.
Example below should behave as you describe provided I have understood your explanation correctly. The launch RPM will be latched at whatever it was doing at the instant you hit 35% TPS.
It would be easier with a button in my opinion - rev up to whatever RPM you want, then hit the button and it will stay there.
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Your log doesnt have all the data needed, but I would say most likely it is your MAP limit.
Where my yellow cursor is just before the limiter is activated, your boost target is 109kPa so your MAP limit would be 138kPa, your MAP at the same instant is 136kPa. With the MAP limit advanced mode turned off it has a 10kPa control range so actually starts to cut 10kPa before the limit.
For future reference, the smallest value in your boost target table should be the minimum "spring pressure" that the system is capable of. Having a target below that will mean boost control will sometimes jump straight into stage 3 before it has even started to spool. A boost target of 0 absolute is impossible.
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Assuming you no longer have the stock coil ignitor, then your high voltage tacho wont work with any aftermarket ecu directly. The same methods for making it work with MS or Haltech will work with Link. You can either modify the tacho so it operates with a 12V signal, or you can fit a "tacho booster" between the ecu and tacho to generate the high voltage spike required to drive it.
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The Zetec coil is a "dumb coil", it has no electronics in it for switching the high current/high voltage primary. The ECU cant control this directly, for a dumb coil you need an ignitor wired in between the ecu and coil. So you will need to add a 2 or 3 channel ignitor, or you can swap to a more modern smart coil which has the ignitor built in.
2ch igniter example is Bosch 0227100200 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/668873
Wasted spark smart coil (subaru) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/beru/13648288
Wasted spark smart coil (VW) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/757956
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For the trigger scope, you need to click the capture button when the engine is cranking, not before.
What engine is it? Have you set the base timing?
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No, ecu power supply is not related to fuel pump.
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18 hours ago, DanSJ80 said:
Regarding the pin numbering, here are some photos of the quick start guide i have, i have highlighted which i think correlate to the o2 sensor wiring. i think i made a mistake about which port to send the canbus wiring too from the can lambda?
The Fury has a builtin lambda controller, it doesnt need a CAN lambda controller, you can wire the LSU4.9 sensor directly to the relevant pins on the ecu.
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On 4/3/2024 at 10:51 PM, Rally Mazda said:
Zetec coil pack
4 hours ago, Rally Mazda said:found weak spark to be not earthing the ignition coil
A Zetec coil pack doesnt even have a ground does it?
This is a dumb coil, have you fitted an ignitor?
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9 hours ago, guvnorlee said:
Source / Calibration: Am I correct to assume I don't really need to mess with the default assigned "An Type X " but selecting the appropriate calibration?
What function/sensor are you talking about?
9 hours ago, guvnorlee said:Fuel Pump : should I select " standard" for type or leave it as default config (Open Loop PWM Control) from base map? I'm running an AEM pump but will be running a dual pump setup in the next couple of weeks. Presently in the default the pump runs during the "test".
If you are running the stock controller you can leave it as is.
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The B-series triggers need to be wired in reverse compared to OEM honda wiring also.
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This error just means the ecu was unplugged or powered off while the PC was connected. It most likely means you have a power supply issue so the ecu is not staying powered up while cranking.
What car/ecu?
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Tacho should be on the same pin as the wrx according to the pinout above. If you have tacho assigned to aux 4 already and it is not working then you are going to have to investigate yourself. It is not a car we have tested or have any info about.
6 hours ago, coreyb said:With the fuel set to Modelled....car idles high compared to Traditional.
Idle would usually be the last function to tune. Tune fuel and ignition first then worry about idle once you have those well optimised.
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2 hours ago, Timboj said:
Just checked and they're still set to the G4X directories, which don't exist any more. Must be a registry thing, but at least I can fix it.
This is by design. All your PC Link options are stored in your roaming directory so you can do an update without losing all your settings/preferences, as well as multiple PC Link versions can be installed alongside each other and they will all work the same.
Stuff like units preferences, fonts/themes, quicktune and mixture map settings, default directories, parameter configs etc.
I think most users would prefer the directory behaviour that you get with the "use this directory" option left unchecked. PC Link then always defaults to the last directory you used for that type of file.
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Most Mazda cam sensor signals invert somewhere around idle speed and only one edge will remain accurate when this happens. Given your cam position is showing non-zero after calibration it could be that the calibration was performed at idle when the signal was inverted. Redo the cal at about 2000RPM, and then keep an eye on Inlet Bank 1 Sys status and Inlet bank 1 position runtimes over a range of RPM's, and immediately after a restart etc. If it reports faults or the position doesnt return to zero reliably at idle then that would suggest the wrong edge is being used so try swapping trigger 2 active edge and then redo the cal.
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Your BAP is 96kPa, so with the engine off your MAP should read about the same. Yours is currently reading 8kPa so something is wrong with the MAP sensor or its wiring. The analog input is showing 0.06V so it seems something must be connected, but it is wired wrong or something.
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Wire it as per our plug-in pinout. The Link ECU requires reluctor sensors to have a falling zero crossing, which is what 99.9% of reluctor sensors generate when wired with the manufacturer's intended polarity. For whatever reason Honda decided to do the opposite and work with an inverted signal compared to everyone else.
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Yes, V4 is PC tunable. It requires a "SerialLink" or "ComLink" device between ECU and PC however.
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This is a G1 LEMV4. The main firmware and trigger board are for a twin distributor 1UZ-FE.
First attempt at Fuel Map - Road Tuning R32 GTR RB26
in G4x
Posted
So is your differential fuel pressure problem now solved?