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Everything posted by Adamw

  1. Correct you dont need this and there is nothing useful the G4+ can do with the feedback signal from a circuit like this so there is no merit in having it.
  2. Adamw

    Pedal Shifter G4+

    Typically done as a downshift blip. You will find this function in Gear shift control, overrun downshift throttle trim. Note it is not "rev matching", the purpose of the blip is to unload the dogs to allow it to change out of gear. It is typically trail and error, how much you need depends on a lot of factors such as the the size of the plenium, the mass of the rotating components, throttle size and how much back cut the dogs have.
  3. If the triggerscope above was performed correctly (captured while engine was turning), then there are really only 3 possible explannations; you have no signal making it to the ECU pins 16/17, the sensor grounds arent connected, or the sensors arent actually M50tu (Reluctor crank, hall cam).
  4. Adamw

    Fury + ethrottle

    This is from an older model but may still be relevant:
  5. If you can connect to the ecu then the jumper is correct. Can you do a log of it cranking and attach a copy of your tune. How to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  6. Its a bit hard to offer relevent help since you didnt mention what model car/ECU you have. If it is a V5/6 then the STI/WRX jumper swaps the cam and crank signal - if you have this wrong then you will have erratic or no RPM displayed when cranking. If it is a V7/9 then the ECU wont even power up/connect if you have the jumper wrong. The immobilizer will have no effect on either.
  7. Can you explain better what you want to do? Why not use ECU logging? Bluetooth and wifi is typically too slow to transfer more than about 10 channels at a decent rate - but even if it was fast enough - that only moves it from the ecu to another storage device so I dont see the point over storing it in the ECU? The solo is just a laptimer with logging built in.
  8. Adamw

    G35 TB setup

    The file you have attached isnt a tune, it should be about 165Kb in size. The video I linked shows you how to save the tune. However, from the log it looks like the throttle is calibrated and working ok. What's the actual problem?
  9. Adamw

    G35 TB setup

    Can you do a PC log while you are doing the calibration process and attach it here along with your tune file. Here is a video to show you how to setup/work the logger: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  10. You need to test under all states. You dont need to rev it high, just set the activation RPM low to test - say 500rpm or something so it activates at idle.
  11. You have just attached a log that shows 1 second of nothing. Start the log recording, then try to start the car, then stop the log and save it.
  12. Adamw


    What specific device are you interested in? Do the spark plugs fire together or is there some time delay between sparks?
  13. So do you have one multimeter probe on pin 29 and the other on 30 when testing? (you should) And you should also see this voltage change or reverse when you go above the RPM settings you have set in the power valve settings (you can set these to just above idle to check).
  14. Did you change the ignition mode setting to direct spark? Note there is an ignition test function to test each output is working.
  15. You will get different override settings depending on if your idle valve aux outputs are set up for stepper motor or solenoid valve. In the case of an evo with a stepper motor the ISC override setting will be the number of steps from full open, so the smaller the number the more air flows (just like the idle base position table). Note the minimum clamp setting in ISC settings is always active so you may need to set this lower also.
  16. The fact that is runs on aerostart suggest you dont have enough fuel. E85 often needs often needs much more cold start and cranking enrichment. As a quick test to check if it is just a fuel tune issue, you can set the injector size to half of what it is now (500cc), this will effectively double the amount of injected fuel and it should show some signs of life it thats all it is. Im not sure if the VL plug-in will actually work with high impedance injectors but lets try the basics first before concluding that. Please also log your next start up attempt, there is a short video here to give you a bit of an idea hoe to set that up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  17. There are two options for connecting an X-series to a Link ECU, either CAN bus or conventional analog 0-5V. CAN bus is typically more accurate than analog. You can only connect to analog with an expansion loom, connect the AEM "analog +" wire to any AN Volt input, connect the AEM "analog -" to the sensor ground. To connect via CAN bus instead of analog you will need a CANPCB cable and CANF plug.
  18. I am not 100% sure, my info says all E34 M50 variants had the M3.1 and there is no specific mention of a M50TU so that may be wrong. The fact you have no crank signal however suggests not. The injecors and coils will work, but they will be in the wrong order. Why dont you beep out your crank sensor to confirm what pin it is on...
  19. Power can be on pin 71 or 72, these two pins are connected internally to allow it to work with either variant. The only two common things I have seen cause the comms issue you have is either bad ground/very low battery voltage so micro is not booting up or something plugged into the CAN 1 port which also has RS232 in it and interrupts USB. It sounds like your bench test has eliminated those two possibilities so I think it is going to have to go back to Link (try Dave again on Monday).
  20. To connect to the CAN ports you will either need to buy a "CANPCB" cable and CANF plug from a Link dealer or make your own connection. The Plug is a JST XA series, part number XARP-05V (Best option but hard to get), or XAP-05V-1 (no locking tab but will work ok and easier to get). Terminals are SXA-01T-P0.6 Connector pinout (you only need the CAN H/L, other wires arent used):
  21. So is the green/blue light on now when trying to connect? There is no CAN dash or other device connected to the ECU right? Check the USB cable is plugged into the socket on the top PCB and not one of the identical CAN sockets on the bottom PCB, I have seen that happen before when guys unplug them when fitting it. I cant think of much else to try. @TechDave is the tech in the UK so will probably be happy to take a look if needed once you get hold of him. He only has basic test gear in the UK. I dont know what his plans are over xmas. It is very weird to have to change the pinout, I have never heard of that before. Sounds almost like it might be the older model that should have the ST185 ecu? Does it have an airflow meter?
  22. Adamw

    N350+ problems

    Pin 16 (AN Volt 11) should be fine. Did you set ANV11 to Lambda 1 and set calibration to LC1? Also check you have the error low set to 0.0 and error high set to 5.0 as the innovate devices output go full scale during warmup. I sent you the instructions by PM on 11 Dec. There is not usually much that can go wrong with a temp sensor as there are just a resistor with no moving parts or solid state electronics. How are you testing it? If you put it in a kettle of boiling water what does it read?
  23. The pinouts are almost totally different, you have no trigger as the cam and crank are connected to different pins (as well as almost everything else), you are going to have to modify your loom to match the M3.3.1 ECU. Here's the important changes needed from what I see: Move Inj 1 from pin 3 to pin 33. Move inj 2 from pin 5 to pin 32. Move Inj 3 from pin 4 to pin 31. Move Inj 4 from pin 33 to pin 5. Move Inj 5 from pin 4 to pin 31. Move Inj 6 from pin 31 to pin 3. Move Ign 1 from pin 25 to pin 50. Move Ign 2 from pin 23 to pin 51. Move Ign 3 from pin 24 to pin 52. Move Ign 4 from pin 50 to pin 23. Move Ign 5 from pin 52 to pin 25. Move Ign 6 from pin 51 to pin 24. Move TP signal from pin 25 to pin 73 Move crank signal from pin 68 to pin 16. Move the crank ground from pin 67 to pin 43. Move the cam signal from pin 16 to pin 17. Cam ground should be ok as is I think (cant see where that connects in my schematic)? Move Oxy sensor heater from pin 37 to pin 38. Move Oxy sensor gnd from pin 71 to pin 40. Move Oxy sensor signal from pin 70 to pin 13. Move tacho from pin 74 to pin 47. If there is a wire in pin 64, move it to 57 (auto trans) Move AC request from pin 86 to pin 64. Move VSS from pin 73 to pin 42. If there is a wire in pin 65, move it to 81 (labelled neutral switch may only be auto trans). If you have knock sensors, make sure they are connected to pins 69 & 70 ( i dont think the M3.1 had any knock sensors connected)? Vanos (aux3) is on pin 7 if you need it.
  24. Sorry I have never used fuel cut much, only briefly experimented and found it to be way too slow. With an ignition cut there is already fuel and compression waiting for you so as soon as you reintroduce spark you have instant torque. With a fuel cut, once the shift is finished the ecu has to wait until the next scheduled injection event (maybe up to a full 720 deg later depending on timing), then after injecting fuel you have the intake stroke, then compression stroke, then finally torque another 360 degs later. I would say the "lean spike" you see is just the oxygen going through the cut cylinders and is nothing to worry about. I dont see any harm in adding a fuel trim if you want to give it a try. You can also do some tricks such as use a virtual aux and a timer to add a fuel trim for a short time during/after the torque reintroduction phase only if you wish.
  25. is that message when you open the firmware update tool? Is the ECU showing under COM ports in windows device manager? Do you have anything else connected to the ECU like a CAN device?
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