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Adamw

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Everything posted by Adamw

  1. You wont need that 10sq050 diode. change the 100ohm pull-up to something like 3-500ohm will do.
  2. And if a log does get split into multiple files due to size, at download time you can just select the multiple files using ctrl or shift click before clicking download and they will be stitched back into a single file when saved.
  3. The MAP sensor is using the wrong calibration in both those maps. It is reading 30Kpa at atmosphere so you have less than 1/3 of the fuel you should have.
  4. Adamw

    Rpm signal goes to 0

    The most likely issue I see is the falling edges of trigger 1 & 2 are only about 3-4deg away from clashing. This is well within the amount that the cam will bounce around due to belt stretch and harmonics etc. The rising edge on trig 2 isn't much better so not point changing to rising, you really need to move the cam edge away from the crank edge by about half a tooth. Im not sure if the cam sensor is adjustable on that engine like an evo3 or if it is fixed like an evo 4, if it is fixed you could cut the window a little larger in the chopper disc. Or if you have adjustable cam gears you could retard the cam a few degrees. The other issue is the voltage spikes you have on the trigger signal, its hard to say which is the cause of your trigger error but these do appear to be a bit worse than typical. This would most likely be related to coil wiring, where they are grounded, HT leads, resistor plugs etc. I would fix the potentially chasing edges first then look at the electrical only if that doesnt cure it.
  5. It sounds like a mis-sync issue. Although in that log the RPM drops to zero shortly after the first revolution which would suggest it wasn't happy with the crank signal as well. Do us a few more crank scope captures. The HP tuners cal sounds more normal for a 3Bar MAP. Do either of the built-in bosch 3bar cals give you a MAP similar to BAP with engine off? The 3.0bar @ 4.65V one covers about 95% of bosch 3bar sensors.
  6. A log of a failed start attempt would be more useful.
  7. If you have removed the TGV's the 4D fuel table should be turned off, this removes significant fuel when cold. You are probably going to need to retune a lot of the cold start stuff after tuning this off. Your map still has the fuel pump function setup for the standard 3 speed subaru controller and there are no other outputs set up for staged pumps? That needs investigating as the subaru controller def wont drive 2 x 450's for long - or if that's been bypassed then the pumps wont be priming because it uses inverted logic and I dont think the relay will be happy when its in 33 or 66% duty mode either. Also, do the pumps have check valves fitted so there is full pressure for the pre-crank prime?
  8. Adamw

    Rpm signal goes to 0

    Attach a copy of your tune and the scope log/s.
  9. I think you have a weak power supply. Move your red/black wire to something more substantial. In the log below, CAN AN 9 is the battery voltage at the CAN lambda device, you can see up until about 28sec it was relatively stable, when you plug in the gauge at about 28sec we then get lots of spikes downward, although they only drop to about 12V in the log, in reality it would have been lower than this as this was just the last voltage that was sent out by the CAN lambda before it didnt have enough power to stay alive and shuts down. I think the shut down voltage is more like 7V normally. You can see the orange status trace changes to "OFF" at the same time - that means the ecu is no longer receiving CAN so the lambda has shut off for a short time.
  10. Adamw

    ERRORS 23, 26 52

    Sorry I dont understand the question or what your pictures are trying to show. But in your log you are certainly hitting the MAP limit quite often and boost control looks like something is wrong or not tuned well, I cant tell what your MAP limit is set to since you have very little logged, but you are hitting 250kPa MAP sometimes when the boost target is between 140-180kPa.
  11. First a quick explanation of antilag and cyclic idle: The main intent of Antilag is to keep the turbo shaft speed as high as possible during over-run conditions when the throttle is usually closed and the engine is producing little exhaust energy. It can increase exhaust energy with several factors, but usually; allowing extra air through the engine (throttle or bypass valve), retarded spark advance so more combustion heat transfers to the manifold and turbine, Ign and/or fuel cuts are used to prevent the pushing effect from the extra air/throttle and often ign cuts to allow some fuel to pass through the engine unburnt to combust in the manifold. Cyclic idle was originally mostly used in situations where the "extra air" for antilag was not able to be switched on/off by the driver, in Group N for example where modifications were strictly limited, the throttle stop was just adjusted so that it never closed more than say 25%. With the throttle not being able to close below 25% however, when the antilag was not active, then the engine would never be able to idle so they use cyclic idle to bring the RPM down to a more sensible idle value using fuel cuts. With the introduction of E-throttle you can turn the "extra antilag air" on/off with the antilag, so cyclic idle is not really needed for idle/drivability like it was with a fixed throttle opening. In the case of e-throttle, Cyclic idle is still often used for a short time after ALS to help cool down the manifold and turbine as you have a lot more cool air pumping through the manifold with the throttle open and fuel cut. This is because you have the Cyclic idle low TPS at 22%, but only 6% throttle commanded in the cyclic override. Cyclic will only start to fade out between the Cyclic idle low/high. I would probable suggest you leave cyclic off for now, but as an example if you want your throttle open 6% for cyclic, then your cyclic low should be about 7% and high about 10%. You have 0 in both the antilag fuel and ign cut tables.
  12. You have stepper reset set to set to key-off, but no ECU hold power set up so the idle valve is never going to reset. The idle valve is going to be in a different place everytime you start it and the ecu has no way of knowing where it is. If the main relay control has not been wired as per one of the hold power schemes then your best option would be to change the stepper reset to "key on fuel lockout", it will then do the reset when you switch on ignition and will apply a fuel cut to prevent it starting if you attempt to start while the reset is occurring. So, turn the ignition on, wait a couple of seconds for it to reset before cranking. Your base position will likely need re-tuning after changing that.
  13. No this is an OBD2 protocol device only as far as I know. OBD2 is a request/response type communication, there isn't data continuously broadcast. So for example to get lambda from this device, the "Scan tool" needs to first request it, in human language it would look something like this: "hello, Im a scan tool, ECU #6, please send me the current 02 data for sensor #2", the gauge then responds with just a single data point for that specific request and includes confirmation of what device it came from and what it represented. If you want a continuous stream of data you have to keep requesting it again and again - and you cant make a request until the previous data has been received. You could probably make it work with user streams by sending out a constant request, but the nature of this protocol is slow, probably less than ~10Hz at a guess so you would be better to use the analog output for connection to an ECU. The intent of the gauge is to be convenient to log alongside ecu data with an OBD2 based logger like HP tuners etc, it is not designed to send data to an ecu this way.
  14. The Link ecu only has 2 knock sensor inputs, you cant use the 3rd. Leave as is for now, use the trigger scope to confirm if the waveform is correct or upside down. If upside down then swap the +/- wires. Plug and play would be a bit of a stretch, you have 12 injectors and ign wires to move, you need to free up an appropriate aux and DI for the vanos by moving some existing stuff to the expansion loom, you have to disconnect the vanos ECU and then reroute the vanos solenoid and sensor wires to the ECU. I dont like to repin these as everyone I have seen that has been repinned has had the internal barbs damaged inside the connector housing so the terminals are no longer secure. There is a better version of the same plug used by Cosworth and Life racing that is not so fragile but they have been obsolete for a few years so they getting expensive and it is a big job to replace if you do damage it.
  15. This is why im suggesting you check the TPS calibration again, if one throttle is open more than the other then there will be more air on one side. If that looks ok then probably an air leak, either intake or exhaust leak will cause a big lambda variation. Having said that, it is not uncommon to see significant bank-to-bank imbalance at small throttle openings with dual plenum intake manifolds, so dont waste too much time on it unless it remains at higher flows or causes drivability issues.
  16. The "lock timing to" setting only affects what the timing is locked to when you are setting the timing, with that window open, any other time it will have absolutely no effect on anything. You dont have an air temp sensor connected so fix that first. You havent set the base timing or adjusted the master fuel, these are the first adjustments you should make and are listed in the "First Time Start-up" section of the manual, so go back and read that section and if you follow it you will likely end up with something that runs good enough to then consider tuning.
  17. Your closed TPS main voltages on TPS1 Vs TPS2 are quite different, I would generally expect them to be closer than that, usually within about 0.05V of each other. I would set E-throttle to quiet mode and push each throttle closed by hand to confirm those voltages are correct.
  18. Oh, thats an interesting observation. I will try to reproduce that when I get a minute.
  19. Sorry for the slow reply, I've been away for a week. The scope looks ok. A PC log would be helpful to confirm all other data looks ok. I dont know this engine well, but possibly if you have had the cam sensor/distributor out it may now be fitted in a different position which could change the trigger offset by +/-180 or +/-360?
  20. There is no log in the zip file, just a windows shortcut link. A log is probably not going to help much anyhow, you will need to trace the wiring to find out why there is still voltage on the Ign sw pin after you turned the ign sw off. It must be coming from something else connected to that same ign switch circuit.
  21. To make sure we are talking about the same engine, Im referring to the European S50B30, not the USA model that had a similar code S50B30US. The euro S50B30 has high pressure intake vanos, which uses two solenoids to control the intake cam. The vanos system on this engine is originally controlled by a separate "vanos ecu" which gets commands from the engine ecu via CAN or possibly some other type of communication network. There are also two extra cam position sensors connected to the vanos ecu. For the link to control vanos you would need to wire the vanos solenoids and the rear cam sensor to the Link ecu. I only have some brief notes on the pinout differences from the last time I looked at it for someone else, the other main differences I have noted are Injectors and coils are wired in a different firing order, there is a 3rd knock sensor, and possibly the crank sensor is wired in opposite polarity to the M50.
  22. I would suspect it is damaged or faulty in that case. Contact [email protected] to arrange to have it inspected.
  23. I have seen it before, cant really remember when or why, but it wasn't unexpected, most likely when I was swapping between an experimental firmware and normal release or similar. I think that message might have a typo in it though, it would make more sense to if it said "restore to factory command" rather than store command. Reloading the map will correct it.
  24. Piggyback means you would have 2 ecu's connected. I would cut the factory plug off, crimp the Link plug on in place of the factory one. There will likely need to be some small changes to wiring such as a relay added in to trigger the factory factory EFI relay etc.
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