Adamw

Flex fuel is never going to work well with your current map, traditional fuel equation results in a lot of compromises with blended fuel. Using multi-point injection mode is also a big compromise as the injection events arent timed to valve events. You really need to start from scratch using modelled multi-fuel equation and sequential injection mode.

Why do you suspect the trigger? If idle speed is high then it has too much air, this would typically mean the idle valve is too far open, the throttle blade is too far open, or there is an air leak. Attach a copy of your tune and a PC log may get you more specific advice.

If you copy the idle control settings out of our 350Z base map it will likely behave a bit better. The basemap has closed loop idle enabled and idle ignition control which helps a lot with E-throttle engines.

Attach a copy of your tune and a short PC log of it cranking.

Usually boot mode means the ecu doesnt have power on the correct pin, so is only powered up via a back feed. The most common cause of this with a Nissan plug-in is the connector is not seated properly. Undo the bolt in the middle, and reseat the connector again, making sure to wiggle the outer ends on the plug home as you tighten the bolt.

The TPS hasnt been calibrated or you didnt store after doing a calibration. So the error is from the throttle hitting the mechanical stop before reaching the commanded position. TPS main and sub should show very similar values when calibrated. Put the min clamp back to -95 before doing the cal.

Yeah stick to post turbine, especially with NTK sensors, they are about 4x more pressure sensitive than a LSU.

Change the CAN mode to the alternative AUDM/JDM option.

The base position table in the G4+ is "steps from fully open" so smaller values means more air. You should have smaller values at the colder end of your base position table. At power off the the idle valve will do a reset, then park at "home" (50 steps from fully open) so the ECU knows where it is at next power up. At power up the idle valve will then move to "base position - start up step" while honoring the min and max clamps.

I notice in one of your pulls when the diff fuel press takes a big dive there is an increase in batt voltage about the same time. No auxes turn off at that point so those events are possibly related. Pump sucking air? Lose connection? You could do a similar static test with FPR pressurised and measure voltage at the pump to confirm how much volt drop you have in the pump supply. Your batt voltage reported by the ECU is quite a bit lower than typical at about 13.0V where as that should be more like 13.8-14.5 so that is not as good as it should be which will be contributing but I dont think is your main issue. For some extra safety in the meantime you could set up a 5D fuel table like below so the a drop in fuel pressure is compensated with increased inj PW.

I have PM'd you.

G4X Digital inputs are good up to at least 10KHz so will be fine for an ABS ring with 48T.

Im not really here to support a competitor product so I cant waste too much time diagnosing, but I cant help feeling the variability you are describing sounds more like a "floating input" issue or perhaps a highside/lowside drive incompatibility. So I would dig a little deeper in this area before abandoning the ecu. I believe the Maxx GP outputs are low side drive only and dont have internal pull-up resistors or flyback diodes, and the fan controller internal circuit is really anyone's guess. Have you connected a pull-up resistor to the output? If not, I would suggest trying a 1.5Kohm resistor connected between +12V and the output wire going to the fan controller. A brief description of a floating input here: https://www.mouser.com/blog/dont-leave-your-pins-floating Be aware also, the commanded duty cycle in many OEM software and scantools etc is based on "percent high" (as are most multimeters), whereas many aftermarket ECU's with low side drive outputs, the commanded duty is "percentage low". So you may find 90% in the OEM ecu is equivalent to 10% in the aftermarket ecu - assuming it has a pull-up etc.

Make sure you have the min and max clamp set per my example also.

They use a Littelfuse 55505 sensor, which has a rated operating voltage of 4.75-25V, so you can use either 12V from Pin 5/Ign sw, or you can use 5V from pin 32. Im not sure why FFE suggest 8-12V, but I've definitely had them running fine on 5V before. A note about the wire colours in the trigger 1 shielded cable since they are a bit unconventional - white is ground and black is trigger 1 signal.

The E36 diff speed sensor is just a reed switch, connect it to a DI and turn on the pull-up and it should work.

With PID tuning, if you have an oscillation and the peaks and troughs of the process variable (TPS) are exactly in or out of phase with the output (motor DC) it usually means too much proportional. Pink lines added to your log below to show what I mean. Oscillation from I or D will introduce a phase shift in opposite directions. So, you have too much P in this log: Here are the E-throttle settings from our LS3 race car which controls pretty reasonable.

If it is a G4+ Fury, yes. If it is a G4X Fury, no. The G4+ processor and firmware was similar enough to the V series so the map can be loaded into a live ECU and it will be converted when loading. The G4X processor and firmware is completely different so there is no automated way to upgrade.

What ecu do you have? A Plug-in I assume?

How were you verifying the PWM freq/duty with the Maxx ecu? You could be right that you have some issue with your particular ecu, but I would find it hard to believe that they could all be that bad in general, if it were they wouldnt even be able to drive a tacho, let alone boost control or NOS which must be pretty well tested functions with their drag racing customer base. I've only ever used one Maxx ecu for a DSG car a few years ago and while I didnt find it to be exceptional at anything, it seemed to do most of the basics ok. I didnt have any need to scope any PWM signals as everything seemed to work as expected. I just dont wont you to go to the effort of swapping to some other ecu only to find the same issue apparent due to the way it is being measured or something.

I dont particularly like "intercepter" type devices, they have to make a lot of assumptions about injector and ignition events, dwell times etc and since they dont have any of idea of the scheduling the ecu is doing, there will be conditions under which they will be commanding sparks and or injection events at the wrong times. Especially during limiters and fast transients. One thing you could try is a more basic traction control with the Storm. The storm will still calculate slip if you have driven and driving wheel speeds assigned. You can use the open loop power reduction part of the power management function to control slip with retard and cuts. A quick explanation with a crude example below: Say I wanted to allow about 7% slip in 3rd gear and above. The open loop Ign trim will start to retard ign when slip goes above 5%, the retard will ramp up to a max of 30deg by 7% slip. If slip continues to increase above7% with max retard, then the open loop cut will start adding cuts, up to a max of 40% cuts at 10% slip.

The pull-up will affect the resolution. For example if you have a sensor with a resistance of 100000ohm and a pull-up of 1000ohm then you are going to see a very small voltage change for a change in resistance. So the general idea is to use a pull-up value that gives the largest voltage change in the range of temperatures that are most important for your application. 10K for the ECT and 1K for the IAT would be the best choices in this case.

Based on a 2ZR VVT scope I found online it looks like cam level sync would allow full cam movement. The only doubt is I dont know if the cam was at home position or advanced when this scope was captured.

The ECT looks similar to the Falcon CHT. About 37K at 20°C. The IAT looks like Std bosch, 2.5K @ 20°C.

It is not a Link product either so not sure how the cost of an electrical connector in a UK webstore is even relevant to this forum. It shows NZD$23 for me which doesnt seem out of this world. You will possibly be able to get them cheaper from a wholesaler in smaller qty's now if you are not in a hurry, but 2 years ago when that was posted, those were very hard to find, if you did actually find a wholesaler with any stock, then you would have had to buy something like 1000 housings and a full reel of terminals.