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Adamw

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  1. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from Rozsko in High spec EJ257 misfire, cam correlation, cranking compression difference between two banks   
    Since there is some evidence of a compression issue based on your starter current, the first thing I would do is buy a cheap compression gauge and do a basic warm WOT compression test.  Get that possibility eliminated first. 
  2. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Kimple Fi in Can Lampda problem   
    The 5 wire cable is the problem, this means the serial pins are connected, it should only have 2 pins (CAN H/CAN L) connected.
    The easiest fix would be to either cut the grey and yellow wires near the ecu or pull the terminals out of the plug.

  3. Like
    Adamw reacted to Richard Hill in Can lambda set up issue   
    You mentioned can hi and lo as green and white, just in case you have them that way round, can hi is white and can lo is green.  Also have a lookcat the can tab in the runtime values to seeing there are any errors.
    HTH,
    Richard.
  4. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from JaredJ in Rb25det sensors   
    The easiest option for the IAT sensor is an exp loom.  Otherwise you can run your own two wires back to the ecu and connect it to pin 36 (AN Temp 2) and Pin 50 (sensor gnd).  For a MAP, that ECU has one onboard so that is probably the easiest.  If you really want to you can connect an external one to the MAF input but there is no 5V power supply at the MAF connector so you would have to get that from the TPS or ECU connector.
  5. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from AliTx in 2JZ-GTE VVT-i base map?   
    This will get you in the ballpark.  It wont control the sequential turbos though.
     
    2JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr
  6. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from MichaelR32GTR in Link G4+ fury setup in r32 GTR   
    Yeah, that will probably work although it will need a bit of trial and error on the aux output table to get the voltage output right.
  7. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from iliasfyntanidis in knock amp for ECU   
    Sorry Im not sure I understand what you are asking.  All of our G4+ ECU's that have knock control functionality in the firmware (such as Storm, Xtreme etc) already have the audio hardware built in, you connect the knock sensor directly to the dedicated knock input pin(s) on the ECU, no extra hardware is needed.  
  8. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Davidv in CAN Hub   
    I think the reason they do a CAN hub is probably because most of their devices come pre-terminated "plug and play".  We dont do that so much and most feedback seems to suggest the flexibility is prefered.    A CAN bus doesnt need a "hub", the whole system was designed to be a main "trunk" that the devices can just splice into parallel anywhere along the line.  A $200 hub is just a very expensive way to splice two wires into 4...  But the Haltech hub should work with any bodies  CAN bus including Link if you really want to pay that much.

     
    I've never used these yet but I've noticed recently you can also get CAN bus specific DTM connectors including "splitter hubs" and terminating caps which could be a nice way to do it if you wanted easy expandability:

     
  9. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from Jay00 in Link G4+ with GaugeArt Gauge   
    Try this, I got all of your list in there except battery volts.
    190803Tune with Haltech CAN.pclr
  10. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Simon in AN temp to display on racepack iq3 from G4+   
    Try these:
     
    r31 New CAN.rcg R31 New CAN.pclr
  11. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Simon in AN temp to display on racepack iq3 from G4+   
    It is not easy at the racepak end as they arent very configurable.  We can possibly repurpose one of the channels you are not using.  If you attach your ecu and dash config I should be able to have a go when I get a minute.
  12. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Fotis in CoP   
    I dont see many clues to where the problem is, it appears to be a misfire.  Can you try increasing dwell to about 2.0 and give it about 25deg timing and see if it changes anything.  I assume you have changed some stuff in the attached map compared to the log as the log shows 19deg timing @ 6000 but the map shows 24deg.  
    Do something like this just for a test:

     

  13. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from Aseddon in S15 link knock sensor and boost controller question   
    You don’t need to change anything, the factory sensor works fine.  If you do want to change to a sensor with isolated ground (2 wire) then the easiest option is to connect the 2nd pin to the shield and use that as it’s ground.
    For the boost solenoid, connect to factory wires.
  14. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from ThePurpR34 in Turbo Upgrade, How to self adjust previous tune?   
    It really needs to go to a tuner.  You cannot really guess how a different turbo is going to affect VE, and where it does it will likely need both fuel and ignition adjustments.
  15. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from neil brown in Link monsoon wiring   
    I think I would avoid that, it looks very suspicious.  Look at the main connector, it is missing the housing and looks like the wires are attached directly to the pins??
  16. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Simon in Link monsoon wiring   
    I think I would avoid that, it looks very suspicious.  Look at the main connector, it is missing the housing and looks like the wires are attached directly to the pins??
  17. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from cj.surr in Possible bug in Thermistor Calc?   
    The problem is the ecu uses linear interpolation between the cells in any table, yet a thermistor is highly non linear.  Since you have such a big gap between the 24°C and 94°C cal points it will be very noticeable.  The reason you see difference between voltage Vs ohms cal is because the voltage divider calculation will inverse the non-linearity affect (I suspect the voltage cal will be closer to reality than the ohms in this case).  You typically want no more than 10°C break points for a thermistor cal.
    Pic at the bottom to show the effect, straight lines are your cal, pink line is more like how the sensor would behave.
    I would suggest you try the pre-defined Hella 6PT calibration as that looks like it matches your sensor reasonably well.

     

  18. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Mario Schneiderbanger in S2000 Speed Sensor Erratic   
    Q3 gives you a divide by 8, Q4 is divide by 16.
  19. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from sama in G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP   
    Your fuel pump set up and the fuel pressure increase solenoid on ign 8 all looks to be ok to me. 
    Have you actually tried adjusting the fuel?  You say "stock engine" but the master fuel is set to 8ms.  8ms would be typical for injectors around 1000cc.  If you have the stock 440 or 550cc injectors then the master will likely need to be more like 13-20ms.
     
    That doesnt sound like anything to worry about to me.  If you want to do a more scientific test, pull both sensors out and hang them in a cup of ice water.  
  20. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from cj.surr in Cam Position Parameter Lag   
    I think the problem probably is you due to not using a compatible trigger & VVT mode.  Your Inlet LH error counter is continuously counting up and the Inlet LH signal is reporting extra pulses.  Try setting trigger mode to M52 VVT and VVT mode to M52, this should work with the single tooth cam and 60-2 crank. Trigger offset and VVT offset may need to be set again with this change.  If that doesnt help please post another log and the tune file.
     
    I suspect something is also mechanically wrong if this is the case, in my experience the 2 state vanos is usually near instant switching (less than 50ms at a guess), you dont normally need to consider cam position at all, usually just switch VE tables at the same time the vanos is activated. 
  21. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from OSF2004 in ECU Unlock fails   
    Someone has done a typo by the looks, The last two characters should be b7, not 67.
  22. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from Ducie54 in ECU Unlock fails   
    Someone has done a typo by the looks, The last two characters should be b7, not 67.
  23. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from smukc in Low voltage at ECU   
    What is AN Volt 4 function set to?  I think from memory it is the narrowband oxy sensor so you will need to change the fault settings to low = 0.0V and high = 5.0V.
    Your resistance to ground doesnt sound right - how are you measuring this - between which pins/points?
  24. Like
    Adamw reacted to mapper in Boost drop between coast and inland setting?   
    You can span one axis of the target boost table to a rotary switch, so you can do up to 33 different boosst tagets. If you use a potentiometer you even can get infinity many  boost targets. 
  25. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from OSF2004 in how to set up link plug in b16a coil on plug   
    Correct, stock distributor is fine as a trigger for full sequential & COP.
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