Adamw

No you want be able to do a stepper motor with the V3/4 plug-in, it doesnt have Aux 5 or 7 available or the ECU hold power circuit to reset the idle valve after power off.  
I dont know the interchangeability of the various manifolds/throttles/idle valves for the early EJ's very well so cant off much advice on the hardware, but you will need a 2 or three-wire idle valve.

Airflow is roughly proportional to RPM, so at lower RPM you have less airflow, you dont need as much throttle area to achieve the maximum flow rate that the engine can acheive.  At low RPM you will typically reach full manifold pressure/full torque before the throttle is wide open, opening the throttle beyond this point does not achieve anything, often you may even lose a little torque compared to the opening that gives peak torque.  With single throttle plenums the loss/gain is usually small, probably ~<2% typically in my experience, but can be more significant with ITB's.  With e-throttle it is still usually worthwhile spending the extra 10 minutes mapping maximum throttle opening against RPM.
 

Your symptoms sound like it is not syncing on the correct engine phase sometimes, causing it to spark on the exhaust stroke rather than compression.  However your trigger scope looks ok and when I test on the bench with a simulated trigger pattern that matches yours, I get correct sync for every start.  Below are the first 8 start up tests I done, you can see ign events are always in the same location relative to camshaft.  Can you try doing a few more trigger scope captures when cranking, perhaps your cam sensor doesnt work sometimes?

Knock level global and knock level detected are not very useful runtimes when using the (older) ign/fuel trim strategy as the knock level global is basically the raw signal from the sensor with no windowing applied as far as I remember.  I cant remember if it has the frequency filter applied or not either.  
Knock level detected was originally added for the normalised mode which uses knock level normalised so is more useful with that strategy. 
"Knock count global" will increment if any individual knock level exceeds the threshold so that is a good one to monitor for a quick overview where/if knock has occurred.  
 

The Evo plug-ins do not have the high side drive hardware on board to drive a 4 wire stepper (bipolar), they can only drive a unipolar stepper motor that has its own 12V supply as per the factory evo stepper it was designed for.  
You will have to change to a 2, 3 or 6 wire valve.

That's definately not a G4X, PCB Rev 1.1 would be an old "non plus" G4, this processor has been obsolete for more than 10 years, so unfortunately no upgrades.  V4.10.2 firmware was the last firmware update ~2014.

A quick video to show what I think is likely going on:
 
2023-05-04_20-01-14.mp4

I have seen this happen on evo's before where the ecu hold power doesnt let it power cycle.  Try again, but this time when you get to the power cycle step, completely disconnect the battery, or unplug the main ecu connector for about 10seconds, the reconnect and click ok to proceed. 

Yeah this is effectively just a dumb screen, it doesnt have any brain in it, all the processing needs to be done by the PDM, it cant be used without an Aim PDM.  These displays are only GBP$335 brand new so this one is also very over priced.  The standalone Aim dashes have at least 3 connectors on the back with ~40pins total.  
Realdash on a tablet would probably be the lowest cost option but will be quite a learning curve making it do what you want and you need to consider how you want to power it up etc.  
Probably the most common low cost display at present is the powertune digital which would work out a similar price or less than what that Aim is listed for.  They are quite flexible and work well, the main negatives compared to a more commercial product would probably be the 3D printed case and a little slow to boot up.   https://www.powertunedigital.com/collections/all-products-2  

You should be able to PM me now, my inbox was full. 

You will need to give us a log of the trigger error occurring, typically if a trigger error occurs near peak cyl pressure then you have ignition noise getting into the trigger signal. 
 
In modelled mode the fuel table represents volumetric efficiency, so will be a lot different to a traditional fuel table in many cases.  Typically numbers around 60% in the idle area and 100% near peak torque area.  You can likely just put 80% in the whole fuel table to get it running.  

The cam position would be able to go to "-10" instead of stopping at zero, the ecu will report errors and disable cam control if it goes more than a couple of degrees below zero.  

This looks more the the LR wheel speed sensor is playing up to me, it is worse at the beginning of the log and gets less frequent later on.  It occasionally gives a random spike to very high speed which causes a 100% torque reduction.  
Below is one example, LR wheel speed has jumped from 60kmh to 205kmh, the engine RPM hasnt increased and the RR wheel hasnt slowed down so I think that is mechanically impossible.  Once that spike disappears the ecu quickly ramps torque back in and you can see that this upsets the car, the slip starts to increase again and causes the driver to lift off.  
So you may have to adjust the air gap or something on the LR wheel, the others seem consistent.  In most places the TC appears to be working pretty well, slip seems to be arrested quickly and controlled well.  I think I would try reducing the torque recovery rate to see if that helps reduce the slip as power is brought back in after a heavy reduction.  Try something quite drastic like halving the current value so you get an obvious change in behaviour, that will help you get a feel for what it does, then you can wind it back up if it feels too slow. 
Your slip target seems a little tight especially at low speeds compared to what I expected.  For example the 6% below at 60kmh, I would have started with something more like 12%, although I dont have much TC experience.

You have a very noisy TPS (most evo's do), if you ecu log it at higher frequency you will find there will be regular short TPS delta spikes above 5.  I have the TPS delta lockout set to 15 in my evo 7.   

Your CLL status says it was locked out due to MAP delta at the time you last saved the map.  This only gives a single snapshot however so may not be your only issue.  The Closed loop lambda 1 status runtime should normally tell you what is going on.  

Its certainly a pretty odd setup he has done there with equation load source set to BAP, then an alpha N fuel map overlayed with a speed density map...  Im not sure if he has out-smarted himself or has ended up with the odd mess when trying to solve a problem.  There are some other issues in there such as the IAT trim is still enabled in modelled mode and the charge temp approximation table has zero coolant bias so you will be getting twice as much air temp correction than you should be.  
Typically for your application just a single fuel table withh TPS as the load axis will do it, equation load source may need to be MAP if any of the bullet points below apply, otherwise load source = BAP will usually work better for NA ITB with high overlap.  
equation load source = MAP if any of the following are true:
The engine has an idle valve The vehicle has vacuum assisted brakes connected to manifold vacuum. The engine is boosted. There is a restrictive airbox/filter arrangement. If you arent in a big hurry, Im in AKL and could take care of it one weekend.  Im pretty much booked solid for about the next 6 weeks though.  

Its certainly a pretty odd setup he has done there with equation load source set to BAP, then an alpha N fuel map overlayed with a speed density map...  Im not sure if he has out-smarted himself or has ended up with the odd mess when trying to solve a problem.  There are some other issues in there such as the IAT trim is still enabled in modelled mode and the charge temp approximation table has zero coolant bias so you will be getting twice as much air temp correction than you should be.  
Typically for your application just a single fuel table withh TPS as the load axis will do it, equation load source may need to be MAP if any of the bullet points below apply, otherwise load source = BAP will usually work better for NA ITB with high overlap.  
equation load source = MAP if any of the following are true:
The engine has an idle valve The vehicle has vacuum assisted brakes connected to manifold vacuum. The engine is boosted. There is a restrictive airbox/filter arrangement. If you arent in a big hurry, Im in AKL and could take care of it one weekend.  Im pretty much booked solid for about the next 6 weeks though.  

Hmm, it looks like there might be a broken link somewhere.  
You can manually navigate to it in Help > contents tab > G4X and G5 ECU Tuning Functions > Electronic Throttle Control > E-Throttle First Time Setup

Ok, the firmware engineer says the trig 1 state suggests it is small spikes of ignition noise getting into the trigger signal and when these are big enough they will be interpreted as extra "teeth".  You have two variations of errors in your scopes, one caused by noise on trig 2 and one caused by noise on trig 1 - so the noise source is likely coming from something that is common to both.  These spikes arent always big enough/long enough to be captured in the scope but there are a couple of the more obvious ones shown below and you can see the trigger 1 state resets to idle(0) when these occur.
  
 
So, a couple of things to look at:
Rotor phasing - wind the engine to about 20deg BTDC by hand, pull the distributor cap off and check the rotor is roughly centred under a post in the cap.  Sometimes to make it easier to tell, before pulling off the cap you can mark the OD of the distributor with a felt pen where the post sits, then remove the cap and check the rotor is pointing at that mark.  If you dont have a 20BTDC mark just guestimate based on the 10deg mark will be close enough. Ignitor ground.  The 4AGE ignitor grounds through its body - which is then hanging on a bracket on the coil etc so there is a lot of potential for a poor ground connection.  Remove the coil and ignitor, bracket etc, make sure all contact points between the ignitor, bracket and chassis are clean, no paint where it mounts to the body etc.    There should be noise filter on the coil power supply somewhere, I dont know where it is physically located but it should be close to the coil, check it is present.  

Can you do a log with the "PID setup" set to traction control, I think the oscillation is possibly the torque recovery rate is too high (bringing torque back in too quickly when slip drops) or the proportional is too high (taking too much torque out too quickly)

For ECU hold power to work the wiring will need to be as per factory.  The main points:
An ignition switch signal that is +12V when ignition is on, to Pin 85. The main relay coil connected to pin 59, the other side of the relay coil connected to ground. +12V Power supply from the main relay high current contacts to pins 99 & 100.  The supply to that relay must be constant 12V - not supplied from some other relay. +12V battery feed (constant 12V) to pin 93. And of course at least some of the main grounds connected.

You cant connect the lambda to the factory bus, you are crashing the bus so nothing will work.  CAN 2 needs to be set to 350Z mode and only CAN 1 can have aftermarket devices connected.  

One of them will be used for both sync (trigger) and vvt, the other just VVT only.  Connect the left-hand cam sensor to trigger 2 as mentioned earlier.

Not really, the master fuel is a multiplier so will affect the size of the final numbers in the fuel table, the max value that the fuel table can take is 150, so if you for example had the master set too small you might start tuning at low rpm/load, and have values of say 100 in the fuel table, then when you get to higher loads you find your fuel table number is maxed out so you cant add any more fuel.  Conversely, if your master was set too big, then you could have very small numbers in the fuel table, which would affect the resolution of adjustment you have.  
If the values in the middle of the fuel table are around say 30-90, then the master is fine.

If you pull the sensor out of the block but leave it plugged in, then do a trigger scope with the sensor just hanging in free air (dont crank engine) you should see 3.5-5V showing on the trigger 1 trace.  Then if you put something iron based in front of the sensor and do another scope capture you should then see near 0V.  These tests will at least confirm the sensor is working and is wired correctly.