Locknar

According to the diagram above, the red wire is meant to go to a 12V supply.  The black pertronix wire would be the signal to trigger 1.
 
 

The second triggerscope looks like there is a faintest of signals there but not enough voltage to be useful.  They have a pretty odd looking reluctor in those things and there is not a lot of info around about them so it may not be suitable.  Can you try spinning it faster (pull it out and use a cordless drill or similar) and do a scope then to see if we get anything more useful out of it.  

It looks to me like that module is not designed for ECU control at all.  The B & C pins are the coil connections, the I & W connections are for an idle switch and thermo switch, probably adds a fixed amount of advance under certain conditions.  
You could probably get rid of that module, connect the intenal pickup direct to the ecu and fit any old signle channel ignitor to drive the coil from the ecu.  Something like a J121 or 0227100124.

Yes, if you pull that E12-92 box off the side of your distributor there will be two wires that connect from that to the reluctor pick-up inside the distributor.  Google pics show a red and green wire, I cant find any info on polarity but conventional logic would suggest red is the +ve and green is the -ve.  Connect the red direct to trigger 1 on the ECU and the green to sensor ground.  
Connect the ECU ign 1 output to the IB pin on the J121.  Other 2 pins as per pic below.  
 

Does the adapter look like the one attached?
 
 

Hmmm that is most odd.
In theory when you read the config from the Vnet module they are the only inputs you can then assign to the Display.
So when you right click on the IQ3 tab and go to set the inputs these have to be form the available list the Vnet gives you.
Its almost like the Vnet module is not programed correctly. Im not sure if you can reprogram the pre configured modules.

Doing a bit more looking and it seems you might be able to reprogram each channel of the Vnet.
If you right click on a channel it will give set up options as highlighted in the attached image.
 

Only unusual thing with that sensor is you will not require the pullup on the Di to be turned on.
You will need to set the speed calibration number to make sure the ECU is reading the correct speed.
Once the ECU is seeing speed you should then be able to add EFI speed on one of the racepak channels.

If running the Serial adapter as pictured above you will need to have this disconnected to allow USB connection.
If running the later G4+ CAN adapter then you will be able to have both connected. However you might need to make a slight modification to the ECU by removing the RS232 wires from the short loom inside the ECU.
 

The modification will be needed if you want to tune the ECU and have the dash connected at the same time. This is because the ECU's tuning port and communication port both contain the serial connection. To do the modification on the ECU you will need to remove the front end plate of the ECU, locate the communications connector and then remove the yellow and gray wires from the white plug on the ECU.

You want to disconnect the Grey and Yellow wires from the 5 pin connector on the circuit board. Make sure you are doing this to the communication port and not the tuning port (orange o-ring).

Scott

Haven't forgotten about this, car still in storage for about another month