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JamesB

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  1. Scott, That's perfect! . I had thought that, with the engine running normally (and hence engine speed constantly above 100 rpm) that the timer function would start, reset and keep cycling. I realise now that the timer activation condition will only be met with high IAT and engine speed starting below 100 rpm then exceeding it. Learn something new every day. Cheers.
  2. I have been tuning the IAT trim on my Nissan R33 GTR, and it follows what I've seen as recommended values (i.e. about -2% per 10deg C above 20). The problem I have is with plenum heat soak affecting a hot restart - when she briefly needs additional fuel not less to avoid lean stalling. If I set the IAT table to add fuel at zero throttle the CLL has to subtract a load when idling in traffic as the IAT gradually rises. My plan is to set the IAT for normal running (i.e. subtracting from the fuel table), but use a Virtual Aux and Timer to switch a 4D fuel table adding more gas in the 60 seconds after ignition-on only when IAT exceeds 40 deg. The digital input for the ignition start (DI #2) is only active during cranking and once this ends the Timer cancels. I'm not sure what (if anything) I can use to initiate the timer (in conjunction with IAT) exclusively when starting up and at no other time.
  3. Hi Dave, I don't think I described the behaviour particularly well in my first post (the car is a 5 speed manual by the way). The TP (Main) log shows the throttle behaving itself for 99% of the time, going from zero at idle to WOT (very occasionally officer), and when it does misbehave it is not always from 50% throttle. This morning the strange 'throttle drop' initially occurred at 21.9%, where it dropped to 0.6% and back up to 20% in less than 1.3 seconds, and repeated a further three times in quick succession. Corresponding short-period changes are shown in the MAP and AFR graphs, so 'something' is definitely happening. I initially thought this must be some sort of 'cut' activating, but it is looking more likely that what I'm seeing is in fact an effect of something else. I will quadruple check the TPS voltage tonight, and give the throttle cable itself a look over. Cheers, James
  4. I've noticed something slightly weird going on with my Nissan R33 GTR, and want to rule out the Vipec Plugin (or find some help!). Whilst accelerating, the TPS signal sometimes drops suddenly from say 50% to zero (triggering the over-run), then immediately picks up again back to ~50% all in the space of 2 seconds, and while the pedal position stays the same. I have fitted and calibrated a brand new TPS sensor but the behaviour persists. One thing to note is that I changed the default J1 jumper position soon after first installation due to an issue with the 4WD light (turns out this might have been an earthing issue with the G-sensor), and never changed it back. Has anyone seen this before?
  5. Hiya, Another question about the V88 plugin board for the Nissan R33GTR. On cold morning starts I am frequently getting an ABS and 4WD failure. Letting the engine run for a minute, switching off and waiting 10 seconds, then firing up again cures the issue. This has never happened before so I'm sceptical about an earthing problem. My tuner suggests that the V88 might be drawing a bit more voltage at startup than the Nissan board, which might be just enough to deprive the ABS and 4WD of their required voltage so they refuse to initialise. Is this likely? Cheers, James
  6. Dave, Saw my tuner today and we discovered the problem: bizarrely, pin 6 ('electrical fan relay switch') on the loom was not connected! I thought initially he meant that the previous owner had made some alterations to the ECU connections when the old F-Con Pro was fitted (good riddance), but no - he couldn't locate the OEM fan relay switch wire in the loom at all. I guess the F-Con must have been set to control the fan through a different channel. Anyway, that's effectively what we've done: run a new wire to the fan relay from unused pin #25 and set the V88 to operate it on Aux 8 (Polarity: Low, Driver Type: Low Side). A/C now nice and cold, but I'm not sure if this will have affected the temperature over-ride for the fan (original setting for Inj 8 has been kept). That said, it's October now so I may have to wait a while to find out.... Regards, James
  7. Hi Dave, Thanks for getting back to me. One thing obviously different in my setup is the function setting for Injector Drive 8: mine is set to "Engine Fan" rather than "AirCon Fan". I have uploaded the pcl file with this post (I'm sure they won't mind as I've just realised you're in a different hemisphere). As mentioned, I have been told there are a few things that may need adjustment, but being an incurable fiddler I'm game to try a few sensible things myself before going back to the garage. Regards, James Eurospec1_sept14.pcl
  8. Hello, I have just had a V88 board fitted to my Nissan R33 GTR. The tuner is making note of a few teething problems to look at when I next visit, but I thought I'd ask about one of them on here. When the A/C is switched on the idle increases and the clutch kicks in but the electric fan does not spin. The same fan should come on to help out the viscous engine fan if water temp exceeds 90 degrees, but it also usually goes on and off independently as needed by the A/C. My map has the Engine Fan set to trigger off Injector Drive 8 (Low polarity, ON temp 90), with the AirCon Clutch on Aux 3. I may not be an idiot (I hope), but I am a total noob with this! Can anyone suggest what to look at here? Thanks, James
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