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About mldc

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/05/1994

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  1. It's Thunder. There is plenty of outputs:) Huge thanks Adam Let's close this one
  2. Hello everyone, Bits and peaces left in my wiring harness. It's a race car. I don't have ignition key or charging light.. How system works: "master" switch on, PMU powers up, everything else powers up. Question: Can I use Aux 6 (high side) output to trigger alternator to start charging on startup? After alternator starts charging, trigger wire starts to feedback +12V, so I'm a bit afraid, that I will melt aux output.. I just want to know if my theory would work.. Or maybe You have any other suggestion how to trigger the charging without any lights? Alternator, VAG (similar as photo below) 2 wires: constant +12V and +12V to trigger the charging. Thanks in advance
  3. Thank You all. Will try most of suggestions and after that I'll update this topic with results.
  4. Hello, I would like to run "sensitivity potentiometer" for e-throttle. Idea: I have Target table 1 with low values of the throttle angle. In the Target table 2 i have target values which are changed by potentiometer. ( 8 position) Target table 1 allways on. Target table 2 allways on. Result: I turn the potentiometer and values from target 2 table are added to target table 1 and overall target is combined. Possible / not possible? Photo for reference.
  5. mldc

    Water Pump PWM

    Finally I understand the logic. I will update You with result after wiring and first start. It's really great to have this kind of community
  6. mldc

    Water Pump PWM

    Hmm... I also found the manual for of this pump. There is a requirement that PWM must be 12V and 500mA. You can check it too. Maybe it will be useful for other members too. manual_tinyCWA_manual_version.pdf
  7. mldc

    Water Pump PWM

    Huge thanks. I own You a beer.
  8. mldc

    Water Pump PWM

    Hello, Our team doing some upgrades this winter. We have G4+ Thunder and PMU16 from Ecumaster. I would like to run water pump with pwm settings. I know that G4+ CAN can't transmit the pwm value, so I'm looking for alternative. Water pump: CWA200 PWM settings: Idea: 1. PMU16 feeds pump +12V when ignition is on. 2. I wire this to G4+ PWM signal Aux5 pin directly (high side) 3. I wire this pin to G4+ signal ground. (Or should I wire it to chassis ground?) 4. GND is wired to chassis ground. Working order: I turn the ignition and power goes directly from pmu to water pump. When RPM gets over 200 I feed 3ms of pw to wake up the pump from ecu. When car idles i send different signal to run the pump from ecu... Can someone confirm that my theory should work? Or I'm just wasting You time guys.. Huge thanks
  9. You say Your boost is to high after 4500 RPM. I am looking at Your boost control. And main wastegate dc% table is set to 0. Are You refering only on wastegate spring pressure? Couse now, ECU is not controling your boost. Tune Your boost map first. Anti lag. Not even suggestin this function for street car. So basically, tune the boost control first and then test the car. What RPM you are making full boost? If it is 4500 RPM. It more then enough for street car. If you boost you car sooner, it will start wobbling in every gear and driveability with that kind of a car is horrible.
  10. Hello, I have Vipec V44 ECU. There is no Knock Control. And Link G4 Knock Block is no more available which was adapter to monitor knock.. I've tuned the car on the dyno, it has no knock. Everything is fine. But when the car is on the track, I don't know if it's knocking or not. Yes, I've made iat, ect corrections, but still.. It it's very theoretical. My question is: Is it worth to buy Link Knock Light and put it into the car? That way I could see on the GoPro if it was trying to knock, or even driver will see the knock and will release the throttle to ensure no engine damage... I would like to know Your opinion is it worth to spend an extra bit of money or go all in with new ecu.. Best regards, Gytis
  11. Hello, I've reached Phormula salesman and now I am a bit confused.. This is what he told me: "The KS-4 provides a 0-5v output, in the same way as any external knock interface. If the ECU is capable of combining the 0-5v signal with the crank angle, then you may be able to do individual cylinder control. If the ECU can be configured to retard individual cylinders based on the knock value at any given moment then it should be possible to retard individual cylinders." So maybe KS4 and Vipec are friendly and configurable? Can vipec combine knock analog signal with crank angle? And how vipec makes the retard, on any value of knock?
  12. Well yes... It looks like it won't work properly with Vipec.. Adam, maybe You have some kind of devices which could work with Vipec? Or there is no more options, just to buy an i44 or i88? Maybe there is some vendors which have in stock.... hope so..
  13. Hello, I have a car which I take care of and it's a sports car, rallycross supercar. It has 2.0 cosworth engine and it can make 600 hp. Now I've tuned it for 500 hp. Because I don't have an electronic knock detection. I used a simple old school det cans, which is good, very good to listen knock, but i made a safe ignition tune, I didn't wanted to take a big risk. Now the team decided that we should take a max power from the engine and also to have a good logging option. So I'm looking for external knock amplifier for v44. Does anybody has a clue if this product could work with v44? (http://www.phormula.com/KnockMonitor-KS-4.aspx) Also, maybe someone has a wiring diagram how to wire external knock control? Would be really appreciated. PS. Adam, on the last my post You helped me with staged injection, Your knowledge helped me a lot. Thanks. Now engine is running much smoother.
  14. Hi Guys, I've managed to wire two injectors per drive in parallel, exactly the same as it was shown in the "help". Injectors are high impedance siemens deka 630cc. So, 2 Injectors on one Drive. Sequentially working. I've made everything I could. I changed setup, to Saturated. I've changed the dead times. I changed the Master fuel to suit the fuel table. But I can't start the car!! It seems like it want's to start, cranking is good, looks like it grabs the fuels but when I release a start button it stalls. Maybe someone has an answer, what did I forgot? p.s I changed injectors from low Z to High Z. Low Z was only 1 per drive. Now high Z 2 per drive.
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