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jonnyt80

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About jonnyt80

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    Perth, Scotland

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  1. have you tried using a manual boost controller to rule out the ecu contolled boost
  2. stick up your map for reference. also a bit more info on the car would also help
  3. http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm Grant and John see my link both part numbers your looking for are on the list
  4. the pump was failing to provide enough fuel as to why i have not tested it yet. when boost started to climb it was like fuel cut / boost cut. on removal it looked like the original. replaced it with an uprated version and the problem went away. the car started fine and ran ok off boost just would accept higher rpm/boost
  5. have you tested the fuel pump? i had the very same issue on an impreza GC8 this week
  6. Pretty sure it's full VVT on the Intake can like the Evo IX
  7. I run a 4 channel audi/vw igniter on my ST220 duratec v6 with the dummy coil running wasted spark
  8. Maybe you should might loosen you up abit Fitting an engine from one vehicle to another doesnt make you a tuner nor does qualifying as a diesel mech in 2002. If your looking for help and advice your going the wrong way about getting it coming on and abusing those who are likely to give it. Courtesy goes along way and fortunatly attitudes dont. Good luck getting to the bottom of it i think you will need it
  9. jonnyt80

    Idle Mapping

    You should be able to getting to run 14.7 or close to it. The MOT as you say should be 3.5 max in a Lambda test it will be between 0.97+1.03 Cant you get a wideband setup through the ecu and use quicktune to stabilise your idle fuelling?
  10. Looking at those logs you definatly have a fuelling issue. If your adding more fuel in the table and the AFR is staying constant on the WB then you need to check base line pressure under load. If it drops off theres either a restriction or the pump isnt up to the job.
  11. It all depends what you want to achieve. As iv said the stock trigger system has seen good hp but alot happens in between timing marks. Yes the ecu will receive more information back from the disc than it would from the stock disc. If you plan on a big hp build then add your trigger disc in now and tune to suit. If you plan on only keeping it around stage 1 up to around 400hp i wouldnt bother adding the trigger disc and run the OEM trigger pattern
  12. If you want to go down the aftermarket trigger disc route you would be better off going 36-1 minimum or 60-2 12 tooth wheel will work fine and give better info back to the ecu than stock but i believe you would be better going 36-1. On another note what is the spec of the car and what is it used for? The stock trigger has been proven to work well on high power applications even on the stock ecu.
  13. I have a similar issue on mine and the timing is very stable at idle. It will rise and fall for about 10 secs or so then settle out and idle fine. Just wonder of its some sort of post start fuel/ign decay
  14. jonnyt80

    OEM CAN dash setup

    Thanks scott. I have tried setting up as you have suggested but no luck as of yet. I will play around with it when i have time next week. Is there anyway other than a sniffer to test the CAN output from the ecu?
  15. jonnyt80

    OEM CAN dash setup

    Im trying to see if i can get the CAN operated dash to work via the G4+ Xtreme. Now im using CAN2 and wired as per diagrams i have been able to get hold of. I do have some CAN data i found online so how do i go about setting this up? I have used user defined drop down but unsure how to proceed and test I have added a screenshot of the data i have found. Its on a ford mondeo ST220
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