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Sparkystav

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Everything posted by Sparkystav

  1. Sparkystav

    CAN Hub

    Can the CAN bus be configured to send signals? I.e. to an output expander?
  2. Had a look at a log, and the ethrottle target is moving so it unlikely to be the PID as you say. There is speed changes going on, so I’m wondering if that is a result of the variance in the Throttle, or maybe is the cause. Would adding extra slip filter to the speed source help?
  3. Brilliant didn’t think of that! will get a log and have a look
  4. I have a Thunder that runs my Porsche Electronic throttle. I originally had the throttle on my 2L 6 cylinder turbo, but have now transferred it to the 4L V8 Twin turbo i have built a custom inlet for. The throttle works as it should for normal driving, but if i activate cruise the car seems to constantly speed up and slow down every second or so. I have used the same PID settings for cruise control from my old, but im assuming its them that are causing this? Im not an expert in this area so can anyone suggest what i need to adjust to try to stop it? Current settings are:: P - 2.00 I - 0.0312 D - 1.00 thanks
  5. Did this get fixed in the latest update?
  6. Just to add to this for the future the right hand bank trigger is about -4 degrees btdc the left hand bank is -356 btdc i had the same confusion.
  7. Yep I’ve done it. There’s a spread sheet on this website: http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/blog/corsa-c-electric-power-steering-epas/ use that to input put your own trigger inputs to work out the conversion rate you need to input on the speedo out to Corsa Ecu. The rev output I just put my normal one into the Corsa Ecu and it’s fine.
  8. I run newage Subaru Impreza coils on my 1ggte toyota engine. They have built in igniters, so only three pins (Earth, 12v, and signal) if you need something a little longer look at the Lexus 1GFE coils. Again built in igniters but 4 Pin’s (the 4th is a 5v feedback to the standard Ecu to confirm operation so can be left disconnected). A lot of people are also using vag coils with good results.
  9. Alternatively speak to Clint at Brands Hatch performance. Hes got a lot of knowledge on YB engines as well.
  10. Another for this. Useful when trying to use the link to replace external controllers to log them replicate.
  11. Sparkystav

    Link PDM

    Another yes for this, something I keep looking at, but to have an entirely separate system doesn’t seem sensible. One to work with my .thunder would be awesome.
  12. Thanks for the response, am I doomed to it never working or is it just on a different channel so I should keep trying?
  13. Hello, im struggling with getting any analog voltage readings from the Link G4+ Fury to the original Dash2 (not pro) using the serial adapter. Everything else seems to work (rpm, temps) but non of the analog voltages. This means I can see coolant/inlet temp, but not oil pressure etc. I have asked on the Dash2 forum already and they suggested Link May have changed a setting(picture attached) Can you help please? My alternative is to buy the CAN interface from them instead but I’d like to get the serial one working.
  14. Yep I used the standard Lexus stalk and it works perfectly
  15. Ahh nice, so using the Ecu trigger to trigger a relay to trigger the main relay. Makes sense, I will try that. Thanks for the help
  16. Sparkystav

    RPM Limit activated

    We thought that but weren't positive so it's best to ask. I'll sort out a log and see what we see.
  17. Sparkystav

    RPM Limit activated

    Hopefully someone can help with a similar issue I've encountered with my G4+ Fury. It's fitted to a straight 6 with crank sensor and cam sensor and cop ignition When mapping the car wouldnt rev above 7000rpm despite the rpm limit being above that (7400). The 'rpm limit' comes on on the Eculink although it's obviously not at it Advanced mode is off so the control range should be 200, and the revs won't rise if we raise the limit above 7400rpm. Ive had a look through all the map and found the following tables that do not go above 7000 rpm, but would these cause the ecu to limit the rpm? Accelerate clamp table? (Reading of 0 at 7&8k) Afr lambda table (although Lockout limit is at 5k) Charge temp approx table (can't change axis?) Ignition dwell control Trigger 1&2 arming threshold table (again can't change the axis) the obvious tables like Fuelling/ignition/dbw are populated upto 8k.
  18. Thanks I'll double check that then.
  19. I've got the same problem with my Link G4+ Fury. Ive got Dbw throttle so wired the ignition switch and used ecu hold. I'm using injector 8 for the ecu hold so used wiring method two as per the manual. Ive fitted the correct diode and double checked it's the right way round between the ignition switch and ecu power. But when I turn the car off the main relay starts chattering. I adjusted the stall setting and that makes no difference. The ecu hold setting delays the chattering starting till after the countdown. Can anyone shed any Light!
  20. Scrap that. I've fixed it. With the older firmware the dash2 read an temp 17 (an temp 1) and 18 (an temp 2) for Iat and ect. With the newer firmware it's the same as the vipec as temp 1 (Iat) and temp 8 (ect). Thanks
  21. Here you go, hope you can help scoff 20150621 updated software.pcl
  22. Oddly yes they are, I thought baud rate etc too, but my boost and voltage readings are still coming through and correct, just the two temps (inlet and coolant)
  23. Finally got chance to have a look, I've now set the fault value to 95degc and the dash2 still displays -49 so it's not just like its reading something different. But it's worked previously, all I did was update the link. Has the setting for temp 1 and 2 moved over the updates?
  24. I recently updated my link G4 to the latest firmware after realising I was a few years behind. However once I did it my inlet and water temps were in fault until I disabled the fault alarm. I'm using the standard Lexus sensor for coolant and a 2 wire aftermarket one for inlet temp. Both are 2 wire one to analog input and one to ground but the ecu was bringing up 'analog input at 5v' for both and refusing to allow the car to start till I disabled these fault alarms. They now work correctly and show the correct temps on the link software, however on my dash2 using the serial ecu interface they both still show -49degC; I.e the fault position. Can you help recitify this, I've looked through all the pages and setups I can find with no help or solution. Thanks
  25. Excellent, thanks for the reply.
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