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Adturb

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Adturb last won the day on August 22 2016

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  1. Adturb

    Crank trigger tooth count

    Thank you for the reply. I'm on an EvoLinkIX PNP. Great point on the tacho, suppose one benefit if I were to have to relocate the tacho output to an aux I could take advantage of the dial sweep on ignition! I'll have to check the wiring but a really good point. Completely on the fence now whether to spend the £100 odd to convert to a multi-tooth trigger wheel.
  2. Adturb

    Crank trigger tooth count

    Thank you for the reply and advice. Yes, Evo 9 Mivec. I am 99% it was to do with the ECU itself rather than a generic issue, just thought I'd ask before causing myself a problem! That's interesting about taking a tooth off the cam sensor trigger, without wishing to sound really silly, can the ECU not account for the 2 generated signals at the Cam sensor? Would it matter which of the 2 teeth is removed, one is a lot bigger than the other? Found this thread earlier, question answered.
  3. Adturb

    Crank trigger tooth count

    Belts are due on my 4G63 soon and I was wondering about fitting a 12-1 trigger disc, is this worth doing or does it depend on other factors? Car is around 500hp and has Mivec. Are there any tangible benefits to doing this?? I did read on another platform that there could be an issue with controlling Mivec with an aftermarket disc- can't see why as the ECU just needs to know where the engine is and therefore what position the inlet cam needs to achieve- sure the Link will handle it
  4. Without looking I don't know if you can use an alternative XS input for this sensor, but if the manual says you can't then that's more than likely the case. The ECU pins are available in the US new from SpoolinUp (Matt is a great guy to deal with and posts internationally) or you can go to the scrap yard and find a vehicle you can cut the plugs out of to re-use the pins? They're pretty easy to pop out and re-locate as necessary. DI 1 could be used given that you don't have MiVEC and if you're not fussed about the Auto IC spray so could DI2, as I suspect DI1 won't have a wire in it if you've an 8? Hope that helps- but I think all I've done is reinforce what you already know!?
  5. Adturb

    Wasted to Direct spark effect on Dwell times

    Thank you, Scott. It would appear that I had very successfully confused myself!
  6. My little brain has been thinking and I wonder if anyone knows the answer, I'm particularly think of the 4G63T engine and ignition setup. Lets say you start with a standard wasted spark system with 2 coils and the dwell at 14V is 5.5mS. You then install a wasted spark COP system and are told to set the dwell at 14V is 3.5mS, as per the coil's data sheet for direct fire use. You then modify said kit to run in Direct spark and leave the dwell at 14V, 3.5mS. Now this is where I start to wonder about the dwell time, does the ECU reduce the dwell time to each coil, or has it unintentionally doubled because the coil is firing half as often? On the flip side should the dwell time be doubled when running in wasted as it's firing twice as often? Hope this makes sense, I guess the basis of my question is asking how the ECU applies the dwell in wasted vs direct spark. I would assume that in direct spark the coil sees the programmed dwell but is this the case in wasted? I may have completely confused myself, if so, apologies.
  7. Adturb

    G4+ and Thermocouple for EGT

    Thanks for the replies, the board has arrived so I'll do the modification and see what the result is I can compare it to my Defi. Certainly been interesting as I didn't realise thermocouples generated a voltage, rather than a varied resistance as with an IAT, etc. Every day is a school day!! Cheers
  8. Adturb

    G4+ and Thermocouple for EGT

    I've had a reply on another forum and someone is successfully using the Adafruit AD 8495 board, after a minor mod to rescale it for 0-1000 Deg C. As the output is a linear 0-5V I can't see why it wouldn't work? Ads
  9. Adturb

    G4+ and Thermocouple for EGT

    OK, so as per the title. I have a Defi EGT sensor and gauge, but as I've got a CAN display in the car I want to remove the gauge and put it through the ECU for display and logging purposes. Now I thought that it would be as simple as hooking it up to an AN Temp input, but after a bit more reading a thermocouple generates a voltage (55uV per degree C, as far as I can see for a k-type), rather than a resistance, like an IAT does. Traditionally a thermocouple would be wired into an adaptor/ amplifier (I saw a PLX Devices adaptor mentioned in a post referring to ViPec 44) to give a linear 0-5V, with temperature compensation of sorts, output which can then be scaled on any AN V input, just like an external wideband. There is Raspberry Pi K-Type adaptor/ amplifier which is VERY cheap, I'm wondering if this would do the job? However, the PC Link help file indicates to me that it can potentially take a thermocouple input directly? I know the Thunder can, as well as wideband, but I'm running a PNP EvoLink G4+. I'm a little bit frustrated as I though this would be as easy as pie, but the more I've read, the less straight forward it appears to be. On the upside it's quite interesting!
  10. Adturb

    PC Logging- Auto save?

    Thanks Guys, noted for future! Has this changed- or have I always needed to deliberately save the log files when using the laptop?
  11. Adturb

    PC Logging- Auto save?

    Bit of a basic question- previously when I've logged using the PC the log has been automatically saved in the 'Logs' folder within the 'Link G4' folder. I've just done some logs and I can't see them on the computer, so do they need to be manually saved with the current version (5.6.4.3229) of PCLink?
  12. Adturb

    CAN Channels

    You can run multiple devices- BUT you need to have 'ends' on the bus. The Link is one 'end' as it has a 120 Ohm resistor on board which is fixed. A lot of the aftermarket gear will either have a fixed resistor, or may have a switch for the resistor to blow it to be removed, but you can't have more than 2 in total, and they need to be at the ends of the chain. The help file has some good diagrams & info, and if you google CANBUS it should pull a wiki page that details a multi drop network. Next step is then identify if the devices have resistors and if they can be switch off/ removed. Obviously each device needs to have a different address. Hope that helps?!
  13. Adturb

    180 degrees spark

    Did you try to change the trigger offset to 180?
  14. Adturb

    Closed loop Lambda (AFR)

    Couple of plans of attack here- I scale mine inversely (0v = lean/ 22AFR, 5V = rich/ 8AFR) so if the MXTL dies then it'll overfuel rather than run lean. The ECU can be set to work on a narrow range, as most sensors do- 0.5 to 4.5V, either side of that (0 or 5V) will register as a sensor fault- I tried this but kept getting false ECU alarms, I don't think there is a time delay on the alarm so it activated each time the car started. Thirdly when you set up closed loop it is only active under certain conditions, typically cruising/ steady throttle. Furthermore there is trim limit, so it can't or subtract more fuel than that setting- I think I set mine to 8%.
  15. Adturb

    Plex uSDM interface

    Last edit- changed the ID from '1792' (which is specified for the 300 and 500 series) to '1000' and it's working! Only thing not displaying correctly is the Lambda, I suspect it's a math problem as the value is changing- but I'm sure my car isn't running 6-7AFR
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