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Adturb last won the day on August 22 2016

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About Adturb

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  1. It is well worth using the runtimes window (press R when connected) to check the Mivec position is tracking the target from the VVT table as you may find you need to fettle the input settings if it doesn't track/ change. There were a few other minor anomalies with the base map and my UK Evo 9. Nothing too crazy, but spending some time using the "test" feature on the outputs and runtimes window to verify inputs will be time well spent. I also used MGP to scale the axis with RPM as MGP accounts for barometric pressure, but moreover I prefer the scale it offers.
  2. As others have already said, can't you achieve your aim primarily through boost control? If you have DBW throttle then again you can control/ limit power with that. So far as I understand it, and I am far from an authority, reducing power by altering fuel and ignition maps isn't the way to go as for one reason, retarding ignition will generally increase EGT. To answer your question on hardware, the PNP ECU is the same as the Extreme. It may have some additional I/O and probably an on-board MAP sensor over the loose Extreme ECU. Hope that helps?!
  3. Did you get it sorted in the end?
  4. I'm down in Pulborough, far from a pro, but have been playing with Link for a while on my Evo. Happy to give you hand if you're just wanting to get the car running- and would be helpful as I keep trying to get my mate to let me rip out his P8 ECU and fit a Link. Drop me a PM if you want, no hassle if not :-)
  5. Adturb

    Where to buy cable.

    Depending on the location you're intending to use the cable, PLC Hookup wire (0.22mm2) may also be worth considering, especially for the expansion port plugs and short runs inside the cabin.
  6. Thank you for the reply. I'm on an EvoLinkIX PNP. Great point on the tacho, suppose one benefit if I were to have to relocate the tacho output to an aux I could take advantage of the dial sweep on ignition! I'll have to check the wiring but a really good point. Completely on the fence now whether to spend the £100 odd to convert to a multi-tooth trigger wheel.
  7. Thank you for the reply and advice. Yes, Evo 9 Mivec. I am 99% it was to do with the ECU itself rather than a generic issue, just thought I'd ask before causing myself a problem! That's interesting about taking a tooth off the cam sensor trigger, without wishing to sound really silly, can the ECU not account for the 2 generated signals at the Cam sensor? Would it matter which of the 2 teeth is removed, one is a lot bigger than the other? Found this thread earlier, question answered.
  8. Belts are due on my 4G63 soon and I was wondering about fitting a 12-1 trigger disc, is this worth doing or does it depend on other factors? Car is around 500hp and has Mivec. Are there any tangible benefits to doing this?? I did read on another platform that there could be an issue with controlling Mivec with an aftermarket disc- can't see why as the ECU just needs to know where the engine is and therefore what position the inlet cam needs to achieve- sure the Link will handle it
  9. Without looking I don't know if you can use an alternative XS input for this sensor, but if the manual says you can't then that's more than likely the case. The ECU pins are available in the US new from SpoolinUp (Matt is a great guy to deal with and posts internationally) or you can go to the scrap yard and find a vehicle you can cut the plugs out of to re-use the pins? They're pretty easy to pop out and re-locate as necessary. DI 1 could be used given that you don't have MiVEC and if you're not fussed about the Auto IC spray so could DI2, as I suspect DI1 won't have a wire in it if you've an 8? Hope that helps- but I think all I've done is reinforce what you already know!?
  10. Thank you, Scott. It would appear that I had very successfully confused myself!
  11. My little brain has been thinking and I wonder if anyone knows the answer, I'm particularly think of the 4G63T engine and ignition setup. Lets say you start with a standard wasted spark system with 2 coils and the dwell at 14V is 5.5mS. You then install a wasted spark COP system and are told to set the dwell at 14V is 3.5mS, as per the coil's data sheet for direct fire use. You then modify said kit to run in Direct spark and leave the dwell at 14V, 3.5mS. Now this is where I start to wonder about the dwell time, does the ECU reduce the dwell time to each coil, or has it unintentionally doubled because the coil is firing half as often? On the flip side should the dwell time be doubled when running in wasted as it's firing twice as often? Hope this makes sense, I guess the basis of my question is asking how the ECU applies the dwell in wasted vs direct spark. I would assume that in direct spark the coil sees the programmed dwell but is this the case in wasted? I may have completely confused myself, if so, apologies.
  12. Thanks for the replies, the board has arrived so I'll do the modification and see what the result is I can compare it to my Defi. Certainly been interesting as I didn't realise thermocouples generated a voltage, rather than a varied resistance as with an IAT, etc. Every day is a school day!! Cheers
  13. I've had a reply on another forum and someone is successfully using the Adafruit AD 8495 board, after a minor mod to rescale it for 0-1000 Deg C. As the output is a linear 0-5V I can't see why it wouldn't work? Ads
  14. OK, so as per the title. I have a Defi EGT sensor and gauge, but as I've got a CAN display in the car I want to remove the gauge and put it through the ECU for display and logging purposes. Now I thought that it would be as simple as hooking it up to an AN Temp input, but after a bit more reading a thermocouple generates a voltage (55uV per degree C, as far as I can see for a k-type), rather than a resistance, like an IAT does. Traditionally a thermocouple would be wired into an adaptor/ amplifier (I saw a PLX Devices adaptor mentioned in a post referring to ViPec 44) to give a linear 0-5V, with temperature compensation of sorts, output which can then be scaled on any AN V input, just like an external wideband. There is Raspberry Pi K-Type adaptor/ amplifier which is VERY cheap, I'm wondering if this would do the job? However, the PC Link help file indicates to me that it can potentially take a thermocouple input directly? I know the Thunder can, as well as wideband, but I'm running a PNP EvoLink G4+. I'm a little bit frustrated as I though this would be as easy as pie, but the more I've read, the less straight forward it appears to be. On the upside it's quite interesting!
  15. Adturb

    PC Logging- Auto save?

    Thanks Guys, noted for future! Has this changed- or have I always needed to deliberately save the log files when using the laptop?
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