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Davidv

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Davidv last won the day on January 13

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  1. Davidv

    dashboard arduino

    Forget about the CanID you really need to think about Frame ID instead. Your frame ID takes up one of the bytes in the message. So in this example below, it is Frame number 13 . When this can frame is received by your teensy, you need to look a that first byte to tell you which frame it is. If the number is 13, then you know that your values in the frame are Inj timing, Ign Angle, and Inlet / LH target. So you can update those values.
  2. Do you have the other half of it connected to 12v? I've done the same where I removed the factory stopper switch and put another brake switch in. But the problem was that I really needed the switch to activate on/off closer to the engagement/bite point of the clutch, rather than right at the end of travel. So it didnt work so great for launch control etc. So I'm going to redo it with an adjustable mount somehow.
  3. So you've physically wired your tacho to the aux output that you're wanting to use as a tacho? Once you've done that, download PClink for G4+ and plug into your ECU. You'll see a list down the left hand side, listing the aux outputs and what they currently do. If you click on one you'll be able to reassign it in the box that pops up.
  4. What's been interesting is that a lot of weight removal so far has come from things I guess I have always considered to be a "fixed" weight. Like, a different alternator and bracket are 4kg lighter. I've never even considered looking at an alternator in this manner before. A lot of people fuss over having XYZ engine because it's 20kg lighter than ABC engine. But then you see people make the benefit null and void by using 10mm thick steel for engine mounts and stuff like that haha. I think a carbon fibre bonnet will make a lot of sense, but the front guards are paper thin and dont w
  5. In other news, I've ended up moving house a few times and various other annoying life things have meant not much time for car stuff. But I've switched over to a dual VVTI motor now. While doing so, I realized how stupidly far forward my engine sits, so I scope creeped this incredibly basic minor upgrade into a full blown overhaul haha. I decided I want to try get the car down to mid/low 900kg without sacraficing its road manners or legality or comfort etc etc. Which is so far looking like it'll be easier than expected. New engine mounts I've made are 6kg lighter than before. A 4-
  6. I've been doing some work on making a crude engine simulator, so if I'm using something else that I want to test that has Canbus I can just hook them up to each other and expect similarish results that my engine would give. So it needs an airflow model. So far I'm just using these simple factors to determine how much airflow the engine could potentially be consuming RPM How much air per cyl at 100% VE How max VE tapers each side of max torque RPM based friction losses Potential horsepower based on mass flow Then I've modelled a throttle body too, which has an exponentially
  7. Davidv

    Injector Timing

    Remember that injector timing only really makes a difference when the injector is open for a very small amount of time. Such as idle or cruising. Because once you're up to say 70% or higher duty cycle, your injector is firing for so long that it makes little difference. I've found that around 400deg is good but on cold starts bringing closer to 250deg (from memory ) meant I could reduce cold start enrichments.
  8. I've wired one up fine, 82mm though. Just using the Altezza e-throttle settings for now, havent fine tuned. But first things I would check, are if you move the throttle plate by hand, does the TPS signal move? When it does the calibration, does the throttle plate move on its own, or not? I'd say the situations you need to look for, are TPS signals not working or maybe the polarity of the motor control wires are back to front.
  9. I remember there was a thread a while back about a particular video card driver that causes these symptoms. I went from a slow old laptop that worked fine, to a flash new one that ran like a dog. But there was a fix for it by changing the video card driver. Are you definitely using the latest PClink version? As I think they also applied a fix for this inside PClink but cant remember.
  10. I've been thinking about this lately, essentially you're trying to build maximum horsepower to your cars/wheels traction curve. So you dont necessarily want more boost in 3rd gear at the same speed as second, you want the same amount of horsepower at that given speed. So I thought controlling the wastegate based on speed vs injector duty cycle would be a decent simulation of horsepower level. If you dont have enough boost in gear X to get to 30% DC on the injectors at 55kph. Here, have some more haha. (and vice versa)
  11. Davidv

    Knock trouble

    I havent had a look in your logs files, but just a thought - your knock sensor is just a microphone, so anything else that happens around same frequency as knock will get picked up like knock. I drove myself mad trying to solve a similar issue, with knock only at certain load and rpm combinations... gave up - months later I found that the springs were rattly and loose in the clutch plate. So if the clutch was loaded up one way or the other it was fine, if it was "coasting" it would rattle and show as knock! Do you think there's possibly anything else going on in the motor/gearbox/
  12. So the % of zone means, how close it needs to be to the center of a cell to count the value example - if half way between one cell at the next, ignored.
  13. If you do that, arent you liable to get e-throttle errors if it over runs past what it thinks is the maximum/minimum allowable voltages? As realistically it's going to overshoot at some times.
  14. One thing that's unique about E-throttle compared to a cable setup, is that its possible to smash the throttle into the end stops and damage the internals of it. (I've got a pile of busted e-throttle gears here somewhere...) So generally the solution is to limit the targeted travel to say 2% and 98% of the actual measured sweep of the throttle. But, its kinda weird looking through the logs when you see it's at 98% when really its 100% as far open as it should be. Or when it's at 2% that's really its closed position. So I know it sounds nitpicky but it would be cool if it coul
  15. You can already do that too. You just open the log file manager tab on the side, and then click in the box for the one you'd like to overlay. Then it shows two lots of graph times down the bottom, you can move one back and forth if you want to try make them line up.
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