Davidv

Okay I ended up with the following settings seem to be working well for the Altezza TB:
 
Proportional gain: 4.75
Integral gain: 0.005
Derivative gain: 35
Max clamp / min clamp 95%
I started out with higher values for all of the gains, but found that I had the throttle plate fluttering after a sharp opening, and also when held steady state at 100% throttle the TPS reading (and throttle angle) was fluctuating.
So I held it at 100% throttle and kept reducing derivative gain until it stopped fluttering at steady state 100% throttle.
Then quickly flicking throttle open to say 30%, reduced integral gain and proportional gain until the throttle plate would stop fluttering.
Since it was working with two variables I'd reduce one until it stopped fluttering then see if I could raise the other, the values above seemed to be the combination where I could go the highest on both.

Based on observation:
Proportional gain determines how quickly the throttle plate moves to reach the target initially.
Set to a low value, and it will take a few seconds for the plate to respond to changes. (will feel laggy) Set too high, and it overshoots and needs to overcorrect and causes fluttering.
Integral gain seemed to be how aggressively it tries to fine tune the angle once it's reached its target. If you snap the throttle open quickly to half way and it flutters, reduce this.

Keeping in mind you want the highest values that do not cause flutter for best response,
If you setup a screen on the laptop to monitor FPS main/sub and TPS main sub, you can see if the throttle plate is fluctuating compared to FPS position easily. Although sitting with the TB in front of you where you can watch it also helps.
It seems to be pretty good now, good throttle response but minimal flutter. I've only tested with the engine not running so far though.
I'll see how it goes when I've finished all of my wiring.

So far though I'm pretty happy with how it's working! Looking forward to having the car be a bit more drivable at low throttle angles.

So things escalated a bit... 

It turns out that the Toyota Prius C / Aqua uses a modified 1NZFE motor (1NZFXE) to suit hybrid application.

So this means it has 13.4:1 compression, ceramic coated pistons, electric waterpump, lighter crank shaft, and a few other goodies that also make sense for things other than a 75hp atkinson cycle motor. 

So I bought some JUN 264 deg cams, stiffer valve springs, fitted ITB, fitted an alternator (normally no belt driven accessories 

and then paired it with a close ratio Vitz RS gearbox. 



The difference is outstanding!



Currently no VVTI working and it's still a completely standard Echo exhaust which is far from optimal. 
I havent been to any events but it's done a 5.8 second 0-100kph with the open diff. 
It's using 66% duty cycle with 310cc 2ZZGE injectors at 55psi. 
Being able to rev it higher, and the close ratio box with a 4.3 final drive has made a massive massive difference.

The noise it makes now is hilarious, none of the performance or sound at all matches the general aura of the car. 

LSD is on the to-do list! 

So things escalated a bit... 

It turns out that the Toyota Prius C / Aqua uses a modified 1NZFE motor (1NZFXE) to suit hybrid application.

So this means it has 13.4:1 compression, ceramic coated pistons, electric waterpump, lighter crank shaft, and a few other goodies that also make sense for things other than a 75hp atkinson cycle motor. 

So I bought some JUN 264 deg cams, stiffer valve springs, fitted ITB, fitted an alternator (normally no belt driven accessories 

and then paired it with a close ratio Vitz RS gearbox. 



The difference is outstanding!



Currently no VVTI working and it's still a completely standard Echo exhaust which is far from optimal. 
I havent been to any events but it's done a 5.8 second 0-100kph with the open diff. 
It's using 66% duty cycle with 310cc 2ZZGE injectors at 55psi. 
Being able to rev it higher, and the close ratio box with a 4.3 final drive has made a massive massive difference.

The noise it makes now is hilarious, none of the performance or sound at all matches the general aura of the car. 

LSD is on the to-do list! 

So things escalated a bit... 

It turns out that the Toyota Prius C / Aqua uses a modified 1NZFE motor (1NZFXE) to suit hybrid application.

So this means it has 13.4:1 compression, ceramic coated pistons, electric waterpump, lighter crank shaft, and a few other goodies that also make sense for things other than a 75hp atkinson cycle motor. 

So I bought some JUN 264 deg cams, stiffer valve springs, fitted ITB, fitted an alternator (normally no belt driven accessories 

and then paired it with a close ratio Vitz RS gearbox. 



The difference is outstanding!



Currently no VVTI working and it's still a completely standard Echo exhaust which is far from optimal. 
I havent been to any events but it's done a 5.8 second 0-100kph with the open diff. 
It's using 66% duty cycle with 310cc 2ZZGE injectors at 55psi. 
Being able to rev it higher, and the close ratio box with a 4.3 final drive has made a massive massive difference.

The noise it makes now is hilarious, none of the performance or sound at all matches the general aura of the car. 

LSD is on the to-do list! 

Hi Mike,
I've been planning to run a nitrous setup like this:
Aux in - 1600psi Bottle pressure sensor
aux in- arming switch
Aux out - relay to bottle heater
aux out - relay to nitrous solenoid(s)
aux out - relay to purge solenoid
and then run it as a dry shot, activated by a virtual aux that ensures bottle pressure is high enough, arming switch is armed, and it's above a minimum RPM.

Also have a virtual aux that runs the bottle heater if you've armed the system, until the bottle pressure reaches a goal target.

When nitrous activates I was planning on having the ECU switch over to a 2nd fuel map that has RPM and bottle pressure as the axes. As your nitrous flow varies with bottle pressure.

I'm not a fan of a wet shot, because the nitrous delivered changes with bottle pressure but the fuel delivered doesnt. So if you tune it for say 900psi bottle pressure and its spikes to 1000psi you'll run lean.
If you've got enough inputs and outputs, and injector capacity then an ECU controlled dry shot with a pressure map is way superior in my opinion.

 

I've finally started piecing together my injector test bench.
I want to test:
-Injector deadtime at varying pressures and voltages

-CC rating / see how well injectors compare in a set

-Spray pattern at varying fuel pressures
So putting something together to physically acheive that is fine, I want my ECU to run it and datalog it though. 

What's the best way that I can control the injector with the ECU while the engine isnt running?
If I use Aux injection with a 1d table for a value at 0rpm, will that do anything? Or because it's 0rpm, will it only fire once/never.
The "PWM test" would be good but it only lets you specifiy the HZ with no control over pulsewidth etc.

It sounds like Aux injection can acheive everything I want, so long as it's able to work at 0rpm.
If there's currently no way to control the above, then could I please add to the wish list:
"Injector Test" function for aux outputs (Or just expanded test PWM function)
-Can specify HZ, but also ms opening time or % opening time
-Run the test for a certain number of events or for a certain time period. (Run for a minute, or run for say 500 events)

-Switchable on/off by a DI / virtual aux /  timer

-Able to datalog the above
Thanks,
David
 


 

Hi, 

My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. 

So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. 

It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun.

I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom.



This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine. 

Results were unexpected:

(Colour scale is cam angle, blue is 0 degrees advance)



The engine pretty much hated having any cam advance at all over say 3000rpm. 
As opposed to my other engine where it likes lots of advance right to say 6500rpm then tapers off. 

I also noticed that the mass air flow rate just absolutely flatlines when you got to around 4000rpm. 

I didnt have a map sensor connected, but my suspicions were that it relates to the absolutely tiny throttle body, and the super long skinny runner on the intake manifold. 

There didnt look to be a  particularly easy way to fit a bigger throttle body, as the whole manifold is plastic and there's not much scope for boring it out.

So looking in the parts bin, I had some silvertop 4AGE throttles in the garage. 

I have a 3D printer that could bang together a usable prototype so after a few adjustments ended up with this.





Then printed some trumpets to available clearance.



Everything fit up surprisingly easily, the most expensive part of the swap (of parts I didnt already have) was just buying a radiator hose so I could move the filler cap a little further over. 

Results - were amazing! 
Instead of flatlining at 4000rpm, it just kept going up. I'd keep revving it a bit higher to help mitigate the crummy gearing from 1st to 2nd, but it starts getting valve bounce at around 7200rpm.
Also, now since the pressure differential from intake side to exhaust side has lessened (less intake vacuum at WOT) the engine now likes having more cam advance to make use of some scavenging.
Virtual dyno showing really good gains, and the difference in the fuel map backed this up too.




I took this car to the drags last year for a laugh, and when standard it ran a 17.6 @ 77mph with a 2.5 sec 60foot. 

So I wanted to try beat this as best I could, so setup a basic launch control using just rpm limiter with vehicle speed as a load axis



I figure I can tweak the 0kph limit up or down to set how much initial wheelspin it has, and then tweak the decay rate to calm down any excessive wheelspin as it gains speed. 

Some testing was looking promising but I also havent really been in the mood to deal with a blown up clutch so I didnt spend too much time on it.

The printed manifold got some reinforcing just in case.



Come to drag day. 



I think this launch control method would have worked well if I was doing a burnout to scuff the tyres. But since I was clutch concious I was just rolling through. So the tyres would get wet to a varying degree and also the rubber debris you pick up varies from run to run. So I found it was a bit inconsistent.

None the less, managed to improve the PB significantly to 16.4 @ 83mph. With a slower 60ft at 2.6 seconds

So possibly even quicker however I only completed a minimal amount of runs for sake of clutch preservation. 
(I've owned this car since 30,000km, it's now on 195,000km with original clutch)

It's actually been heaps of fun, and it's a completely different car to drive with the better intake. 
I've got a gearbox ready to fit with better final drive ratio and gearing from the RS model, and a torsen LSD to fit in it. 
I'll also chuck the 1500cc motor in at some point, I'd imagine it would dip into the 15 second bracket pretty easy with that combo. 
And it's great because all of the parts are hilariously cheap. If I could wring 100hp per litre out of the 1500cc setup it would be pretty hilarious to drive, as it's only around 800kg. Still not the same power to weight ratio as my other car, however, would be a heap of fun to do some autocross/hillclimbs/small track stuff with. 

Hi, 

My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. 

So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. 

It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun.

I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom.



This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine. 

Results were unexpected:

(Colour scale is cam angle, blue is 0 degrees advance)



The engine pretty much hated having any cam advance at all over say 3000rpm. 
As opposed to my other engine where it likes lots of advance right to say 6500rpm then tapers off. 

I also noticed that the mass air flow rate just absolutely flatlines when you got to around 4000rpm. 

I didnt have a map sensor connected, but my suspicions were that it relates to the absolutely tiny throttle body, and the super long skinny runner on the intake manifold. 

There didnt look to be a  particularly easy way to fit a bigger throttle body, as the whole manifold is plastic and there's not much scope for boring it out.

So looking in the parts bin, I had some silvertop 4AGE throttles in the garage. 

I have a 3D printer that could bang together a usable prototype so after a few adjustments ended up with this.





Then printed some trumpets to available clearance.



Everything fit up surprisingly easily, the most expensive part of the swap (of parts I didnt already have) was just buying a radiator hose so I could move the filler cap a little further over. 

Results - were amazing! 
Instead of flatlining at 4000rpm, it just kept going up. I'd keep revving it a bit higher to help mitigate the crummy gearing from 1st to 2nd, but it starts getting valve bounce at around 7200rpm.
Also, now since the pressure differential from intake side to exhaust side has lessened (less intake vacuum at WOT) the engine now likes having more cam advance to make use of some scavenging.
Virtual dyno showing really good gains, and the difference in the fuel map backed this up too.




I took this car to the drags last year for a laugh, and when standard it ran a 17.6 @ 77mph with a 2.5 sec 60foot. 

So I wanted to try beat this as best I could, so setup a basic launch control using just rpm limiter with vehicle speed as a load axis



I figure I can tweak the 0kph limit up or down to set how much initial wheelspin it has, and then tweak the decay rate to calm down any excessive wheelspin as it gains speed. 

Some testing was looking promising but I also havent really been in the mood to deal with a blown up clutch so I didnt spend too much time on it.

The printed manifold got some reinforcing just in case.



Come to drag day. 



I think this launch control method would have worked well if I was doing a burnout to scuff the tyres. But since I was clutch concious I was just rolling through. So the tyres would get wet to a varying degree and also the rubber debris you pick up varies from run to run. So I found it was a bit inconsistent.

None the less, managed to improve the PB significantly to 16.4 @ 83mph. With a slower 60ft at 2.6 seconds

So possibly even quicker however I only completed a minimal amount of runs for sake of clutch preservation. 
(I've owned this car since 30,000km, it's now on 195,000km with original clutch)

It's actually been heaps of fun, and it's a completely different car to drive with the better intake. 
I've got a gearbox ready to fit with better final drive ratio and gearing from the RS model, and a torsen LSD to fit in it. 
I'll also chuck the 1500cc motor in at some point, I'd imagine it would dip into the 15 second bracket pretty easy with that combo. 
And it's great because all of the parts are hilariously cheap. If I could wring 100hp per litre out of the 1500cc setup it would be pretty hilarious to drive, as it's only around 800kg. Still not the same power to weight ratio as my other car, however, would be a heap of fun to do some autocross/hillclimbs/small track stuff with. 

I would love to see min/max dc clamp values available when using the gp PWM outputs. The reason for this is to limit the minimum duty applied to things such as fans, water pumps etc, as these often need a minimum duty to start properly, and table interpolation seems to effect this.
Another Cherry on the top would be a 'kick' feature to temporarily boost duty to overcome stiction etc.
 
It could include:
Kick dc %
Kick hold time in seconds
Kick Decay time in seconds.
 
Thanks in advance

Hi, 

My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. 

So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. 

It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun.

I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom.



This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine. 

Results were unexpected:

(Colour scale is cam angle, blue is 0 degrees advance)



The engine pretty much hated having any cam advance at all over say 3000rpm. 
As opposed to my other engine where it likes lots of advance right to say 6500rpm then tapers off. 

I also noticed that the mass air flow rate just absolutely flatlines when you got to around 4000rpm. 

I didnt have a map sensor connected, but my suspicions were that it relates to the absolutely tiny throttle body, and the super long skinny runner on the intake manifold. 

There didnt look to be a  particularly easy way to fit a bigger throttle body, as the whole manifold is plastic and there's not much scope for boring it out.

So looking in the parts bin, I had some silvertop 4AGE throttles in the garage. 

I have a 3D printer that could bang together a usable prototype so after a few adjustments ended up with this.





Then printed some trumpets to available clearance.



Everything fit up surprisingly easily, the most expensive part of the swap (of parts I didnt already have) was just buying a radiator hose so I could move the filler cap a little further over. 

Results - were amazing! 
Instead of flatlining at 4000rpm, it just kept going up. I'd keep revving it a bit higher to help mitigate the crummy gearing from 1st to 2nd, but it starts getting valve bounce at around 7200rpm.
Also, now since the pressure differential from intake side to exhaust side has lessened (less intake vacuum at WOT) the engine now likes having more cam advance to make use of some scavenging.
Virtual dyno showing really good gains, and the difference in the fuel map backed this up too.




I took this car to the drags last year for a laugh, and when standard it ran a 17.6 @ 77mph with a 2.5 sec 60foot. 

So I wanted to try beat this as best I could, so setup a basic launch control using just rpm limiter with vehicle speed as a load axis



I figure I can tweak the 0kph limit up or down to set how much initial wheelspin it has, and then tweak the decay rate to calm down any excessive wheelspin as it gains speed. 

Some testing was looking promising but I also havent really been in the mood to deal with a blown up clutch so I didnt spend too much time on it.

The printed manifold got some reinforcing just in case.



Come to drag day. 



I think this launch control method would have worked well if I was doing a burnout to scuff the tyres. But since I was clutch concious I was just rolling through. So the tyres would get wet to a varying degree and also the rubber debris you pick up varies from run to run. So I found it was a bit inconsistent.

None the less, managed to improve the PB significantly to 16.4 @ 83mph. With a slower 60ft at 2.6 seconds

So possibly even quicker however I only completed a minimal amount of runs for sake of clutch preservation. 
(I've owned this car since 30,000km, it's now on 195,000km with original clutch)

It's actually been heaps of fun, and it's a completely different car to drive with the better intake. 
I've got a gearbox ready to fit with better final drive ratio and gearing from the RS model, and a torsen LSD to fit in it. 
I'll also chuck the 1500cc motor in at some point, I'd imagine it would dip into the 15 second bracket pretty easy with that combo. 
And it's great because all of the parts are hilariously cheap. If I could wring 100hp per litre out of the 1500cc setup it would be pretty hilarious to drive, as it's only around 800kg. Still not the same power to weight ratio as my other car, however, would be a heap of fun to do some autocross/hillclimbs/small track stuff with. 

Hi, 

My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. 

So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. 

It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun.

I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom.



This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine. 

Results were unexpected:

(Colour scale is cam angle, blue is 0 degrees advance)



The engine pretty much hated having any cam advance at all over say 3000rpm. 
As opposed to my other engine where it likes lots of advance right to say 6500rpm then tapers off. 

I also noticed that the mass air flow rate just absolutely flatlines when you got to around 4000rpm. 

I didnt have a map sensor connected, but my suspicions were that it relates to the absolutely tiny throttle body, and the super long skinny runner on the intake manifold. 

There didnt look to be a  particularly easy way to fit a bigger throttle body, as the whole manifold is plastic and there's not much scope for boring it out.

So looking in the parts bin, I had some silvertop 4AGE throttles in the garage. 

I have a 3D printer that could bang together a usable prototype so after a few adjustments ended up with this.





Then printed some trumpets to available clearance.



Everything fit up surprisingly easily, the most expensive part of the swap (of parts I didnt already have) was just buying a radiator hose so I could move the filler cap a little further over. 

Results - were amazing! 
Instead of flatlining at 4000rpm, it just kept going up. I'd keep revving it a bit higher to help mitigate the crummy gearing from 1st to 2nd, but it starts getting valve bounce at around 7200rpm.
Also, now since the pressure differential from intake side to exhaust side has lessened (less intake vacuum at WOT) the engine now likes having more cam advance to make use of some scavenging.
Virtual dyno showing really good gains, and the difference in the fuel map backed this up too.




I took this car to the drags last year for a laugh, and when standard it ran a 17.6 @ 77mph with a 2.5 sec 60foot. 

So I wanted to try beat this as best I could, so setup a basic launch control using just rpm limiter with vehicle speed as a load axis



I figure I can tweak the 0kph limit up or down to set how much initial wheelspin it has, and then tweak the decay rate to calm down any excessive wheelspin as it gains speed. 

Some testing was looking promising but I also havent really been in the mood to deal with a blown up clutch so I didnt spend too much time on it.

The printed manifold got some reinforcing just in case.



Come to drag day. 



I think this launch control method would have worked well if I was doing a burnout to scuff the tyres. But since I was clutch concious I was just rolling through. So the tyres would get wet to a varying degree and also the rubber debris you pick up varies from run to run. So I found it was a bit inconsistent.

None the less, managed to improve the PB significantly to 16.4 @ 83mph. With a slower 60ft at 2.6 seconds

So possibly even quicker however I only completed a minimal amount of runs for sake of clutch preservation. 
(I've owned this car since 30,000km, it's now on 195,000km with original clutch)

It's actually been heaps of fun, and it's a completely different car to drive with the better intake. 
I've got a gearbox ready to fit with better final drive ratio and gearing from the RS model, and a torsen LSD to fit in it. 
I'll also chuck the 1500cc motor in at some point, I'd imagine it would dip into the 15 second bracket pretty easy with that combo. 
And it's great because all of the parts are hilariously cheap. If I could wring 100hp per litre out of the 1500cc setup it would be pretty hilarious to drive, as it's only around 800kg. Still not the same power to weight ratio as my other car, however, would be a heap of fun to do some autocross/hillclimbs/small track stuff with. 

Hi, 

My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. 

So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. 

It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun.

I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom.



This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine. 

Results were unexpected:

(Colour scale is cam angle, blue is 0 degrees advance)



The engine pretty much hated having any cam advance at all over say 3000rpm. 
As opposed to my other engine where it likes lots of advance right to say 6500rpm then tapers off. 

I also noticed that the mass air flow rate just absolutely flatlines when you got to around 4000rpm. 

I didnt have a map sensor connected, but my suspicions were that it relates to the absolutely tiny throttle body, and the super long skinny runner on the intake manifold. 

There didnt look to be a  particularly easy way to fit a bigger throttle body, as the whole manifold is plastic and there's not much scope for boring it out.

So looking in the parts bin, I had some silvertop 4AGE throttles in the garage. 

I have a 3D printer that could bang together a usable prototype so after a few adjustments ended up with this.





Then printed some trumpets to available clearance.



Everything fit up surprisingly easily, the most expensive part of the swap (of parts I didnt already have) was just buying a radiator hose so I could move the filler cap a little further over. 

Results - were amazing! 
Instead of flatlining at 4000rpm, it just kept going up. I'd keep revving it a bit higher to help mitigate the crummy gearing from 1st to 2nd, but it starts getting valve bounce at around 7200rpm.
Also, now since the pressure differential from intake side to exhaust side has lessened (less intake vacuum at WOT) the engine now likes having more cam advance to make use of some scavenging.
Virtual dyno showing really good gains, and the difference in the fuel map backed this up too.




I took this car to the drags last year for a laugh, and when standard it ran a 17.6 @ 77mph with a 2.5 sec 60foot. 

So I wanted to try beat this as best I could, so setup a basic launch control using just rpm limiter with vehicle speed as a load axis



I figure I can tweak the 0kph limit up or down to set how much initial wheelspin it has, and then tweak the decay rate to calm down any excessive wheelspin as it gains speed. 

Some testing was looking promising but I also havent really been in the mood to deal with a blown up clutch so I didnt spend too much time on it.

The printed manifold got some reinforcing just in case.



Come to drag day. 



I think this launch control method would have worked well if I was doing a burnout to scuff the tyres. But since I was clutch concious I was just rolling through. So the tyres would get wet to a varying degree and also the rubber debris you pick up varies from run to run. So I found it was a bit inconsistent.

None the less, managed to improve the PB significantly to 16.4 @ 83mph. With a slower 60ft at 2.6 seconds

So possibly even quicker however I only completed a minimal amount of runs for sake of clutch preservation. 
(I've owned this car since 30,000km, it's now on 195,000km with original clutch)

It's actually been heaps of fun, and it's a completely different car to drive with the better intake. 
I've got a gearbox ready to fit with better final drive ratio and gearing from the RS model, and a torsen LSD to fit in it. 
I'll also chuck the 1500cc motor in at some point, I'd imagine it would dip into the 15 second bracket pretty easy with that combo. 
And it's great because all of the parts are hilariously cheap. If I could wring 100hp per litre out of the 1500cc setup it would be pretty hilarious to drive, as it's only around 800kg. Still not the same power to weight ratio as my other car, however, would be a heap of fun to do some autocross/hillclimbs/small track stuff with. 

Hi, 

My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. 

So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. 

It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun.

I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom.



This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine. 

Results were unexpected:

(Colour scale is cam angle, blue is 0 degrees advance)



The engine pretty much hated having any cam advance at all over say 3000rpm. 
As opposed to my other engine where it likes lots of advance right to say 6500rpm then tapers off. 

I also noticed that the mass air flow rate just absolutely flatlines when you got to around 4000rpm. 

I didnt have a map sensor connected, but my suspicions were that it relates to the absolutely tiny throttle body, and the super long skinny runner on the intake manifold. 

There didnt look to be a  particularly easy way to fit a bigger throttle body, as the whole manifold is plastic and there's not much scope for boring it out.

So looking in the parts bin, I had some silvertop 4AGE throttles in the garage. 

I have a 3D printer that could bang together a usable prototype so after a few adjustments ended up with this.





Then printed some trumpets to available clearance.



Everything fit up surprisingly easily, the most expensive part of the swap (of parts I didnt already have) was just buying a radiator hose so I could move the filler cap a little further over. 

Results - were amazing! 
Instead of flatlining at 4000rpm, it just kept going up. I'd keep revving it a bit higher to help mitigate the crummy gearing from 1st to 2nd, but it starts getting valve bounce at around 7200rpm.
Also, now since the pressure differential from intake side to exhaust side has lessened (less intake vacuum at WOT) the engine now likes having more cam advance to make use of some scavenging.
Virtual dyno showing really good gains, and the difference in the fuel map backed this up too.




I took this car to the drags last year for a laugh, and when standard it ran a 17.6 @ 77mph with a 2.5 sec 60foot. 

So I wanted to try beat this as best I could, so setup a basic launch control using just rpm limiter with vehicle speed as a load axis



I figure I can tweak the 0kph limit up or down to set how much initial wheelspin it has, and then tweak the decay rate to calm down any excessive wheelspin as it gains speed. 

Some testing was looking promising but I also havent really been in the mood to deal with a blown up clutch so I didnt spend too much time on it.

The printed manifold got some reinforcing just in case.



Come to drag day. 



I think this launch control method would have worked well if I was doing a burnout to scuff the tyres. But since I was clutch concious I was just rolling through. So the tyres would get wet to a varying degree and also the rubber debris you pick up varies from run to run. So I found it was a bit inconsistent.

None the less, managed to improve the PB significantly to 16.4 @ 83mph. With a slower 60ft at 2.6 seconds

So possibly even quicker however I only completed a minimal amount of runs for sake of clutch preservation. 
(I've owned this car since 30,000km, it's now on 195,000km with original clutch)

It's actually been heaps of fun, and it's a completely different car to drive with the better intake. 
I've got a gearbox ready to fit with better final drive ratio and gearing from the RS model, and a torsen LSD to fit in it. 
I'll also chuck the 1500cc motor in at some point, I'd imagine it would dip into the 15 second bracket pretty easy with that combo. 
And it's great because all of the parts are hilariously cheap. If I could wring 100hp per litre out of the 1500cc setup it would be pretty hilarious to drive, as it's only around 800kg. Still not the same power to weight ratio as my other car, however, would be a heap of fun to do some autocross/hillclimbs/small track stuff with. 

@Davidv New PC Link & firmware version on Link website today should have this fixed.

Yeah, thats a very weird one, I will pass it on to engineering and ask them to take a look.  

Hey people, 
Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well.

I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D ignition, 5D ignition and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode.

With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table in varying amounts without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily.

Like so: 



Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. 

So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. 
I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear.
Then flicked the first switch, did it again.
Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. 

When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. 


However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values:


Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km:



Then from here, collated the results from each run.


So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too.

It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. 
It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising)

Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! 
I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat. 

Forget about the CanID you really need to think about Frame ID instead.
Your frame ID takes up one of the bytes in the message. 
So in this example below, it is Frame number 13 . 

When this can frame is received by your teensy, you need to look a that first byte to tell you which frame it is. 

If the number is 13, then you know that your values in the frame are Inj timing, Ign Angle, and Inlet / LH target. 
So you can update those values.
 

Forget about the CanID you really need to think about Frame ID instead.
Your frame ID takes up one of the bytes in the message. 
So in this example below, it is Frame number 13 . 

When this can frame is received by your teensy, you need to look a that first byte to tell you which frame it is. 

If the number is 13, then you know that your values in the frame are Inj timing, Ign Angle, and Inlet / LH target. 
So you can update those values.
 

I dont know what library you are using but with most you shouldnt need to specify the CAN ID if that is the only message that is going to be on the bus - if will just read every message.
This bit here looks wrong to me:
 
You want it to switch based on the frame ID which is the number in Byte 0.  Based on how the rest of your code is written I suspect this should be something like:  switch (rxmsg.buf[0])
 
 
Also your byte numbers are wrong in this section you cant have data in byte zero as that is your frame ID:

 

You can connect a loop wire from an aux to trigger 1 pin.  Set the trigger mode as below.  Set the aux to test PWM and changing the frequency will give you different RPM.


 
 

I like your simulator, we have a project in house at the moment doing something vaguely similar. 
Removing weight is definitely overlooked so often, it is far more important than engine performance in most cases.  Fibreglass doors and hatch are possibly out of budget but are often the biggest bang for buck weight reduction in a car like this (loss of 60-80kg common), but they often dont fit as nice and seal shut etc so there are some negatives for a car that may be road driven often too.

I've been doing some work on making a crude engine simulator, so if I'm using something else that I want to test that has Canbus I can just hook them up to each other and expect similarish results that my engine would give.
So it needs an airflow model. So far I'm just using these simple factors to determine how much airflow the engine could potentially be consuming 

RPM
How much air per cyl at 100% VE 
How max VE tapers each side of max torque
RPM based friction losses
Potential horsepower based on mass flow

Then I've modelled a throttle body too, which has an exponentially increasing/decreasing flow rate based on angle. 
So if the angle allows you  to flow more air than what the engine is trying to consume, MAP stays at 101kpa and the engine can reach its full throttle VE value. 
But if the throttle is closed further than this, then it shows the number as dictated by throttle angle but also generates a map sensor value. 
Which then generates a pumping losses number based on MAP and RPM.
So the idea here is that it can simulate the situation where the engine is still able to flow 100% of its potential power even at lower throttle, if the engines airflow demand is low enough.
Even if he airflow number is fixed the actual power number changes a little through the RPM sweep due to differing losses.
 

So to add more features I basically add more things which potentially take away from max power if they are non optimal. 
So I still need to make an AFR model, so that you'll make less power as you go further away from peak power AFR. 

Then make an ignition model which has an ideal ignition number (in milliseconds to 15 ATDC so it generates a fairly sane number across the rpm range)
But then has variables to account for different amount of ignition needed when you run richer or leaner, or less engine load. 

Then from there, I'll make a road load simulator where the car is requiring a varying load as it travels along ups and downs. So the simulation of cruise control is a bit more accurate as in real life the test conditions go out of bounds a lot if the road gradient changes too much across the course of a single test.


So obviously this wont be a 100% accurate simulation of my engine or any other engine. But it will react to changes in hopefully a similar way a real engine does, and be capable of being tuned like a real engine does.
The eventual idea is that I'll be able to test and troubleshoot my cruise control ignition trim system using this instead of needing to drive the car every time I need to test something.
So this virtual motor will have an ideal ignition table which I currently dont even know what it is.
But it will be my other devices job to run iterative tests to figure that out.
This will be able to whizz through 1000s of iterations much faster than how it can process in real time when you're waiting for fuel samples to generate and conditions to stabilize.
Which should help for troubleshooting and bug finding/fixing to no end.
So hopefully when I get my car running again it'll be fairly stable. 

What will also be good is if a G4X ECU is in the budget at some point, I'll be able to drastically cut down the number of calculations etc I'm having my dash do and send back to the ECU.
As the math channel feature will allow the majority of things to be done all onboard which is exciting.

Remember that injector timing only really makes a difference when the injector is open for a very small amount of time. Such as idle or cruising. 

Because once you're up to say 70% or higher duty cycle, your injector is firing for so long that it makes little difference.

I've found that around 400deg is good but on cold starts bringing closer to 250deg (from memory ) meant I could reduce cold start enrichments.

I just tried it, works great.

There is no error state for the E-Throttle going outside of bounds.

6.16.26 PC link and 6.16.15 FW are now available 
http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/Link Engine Management PC Link G4X Updates 13032020.pdf