Top Tune NZ

keep moving the wires around it does work i have done heaps but i didnt write down where the wires ended up

what happened to the actual diagram of a link boost controller showing where port 1, 2 and three go too on both internal and external waste gates it has been replaced ? can we have it back please!!!!!!

my trick was to spend 200k to buy the dyno and charge for my expertise lol a good tuner will have it sorted fully in less than 4hrs on the dyno

you need to read the help files before you do any more !!!! this is why they are there. setting the base timing is one of the first things you do it is done before you fire the engine the degrees you use does not really matter but use ten because it is easy to find on the rb engine it is only so the ecu and engine read the same make sure you do it as the help manual says tho www.dynotune.co.nz

sorry i couldnt find one in my files. i will make up a start up map this week for you ii know dave at dtech may have one as he has just tuned one where are you from?

if you cant find a daigram try using the ''test on'' function on the aux etc this will save you heaps of time www.dynotune.co.nz

why do you want to do this ?

i wouldnt be useing toyota ignitors as many of them have builtin rev limiters. my sugestion if you are looking at any sort of real performance above stock is a set of m&w cdi units with msd coils or if its a stock power type engine use two link three channel for easy two wire and test and very reliabe units www.dynotune.co.nz

Previously logan korff wrote: Hi logan give me a call at work and i will tell you what to do as we run tis on curt whittakers car 06 7548336 or txt me 021754832 ross honnor at dobsons dyno tune Fitting g4 storm to toyota 1jzgte with vvti.To operate the vvti is it necessary to fit a digital sensor to both cams.

dam forget most of what i just told you i was thinking in my head you owned a rb not a sr motor haha it must be late um i dont know why yours does that hahaha buy a rb i have way better fixs for them the timing chain tension may be tired or the top chain guide between the cams may missing ? what is the preload on the lifters like are you running std cams ?

also might pay if you can remove the cas sensor check there is a o ring on the shaft to stop the cas from rattleing in the cam shaft drive recently i have chased a problem with the cas sensor drive rotating in the cam shaft ( yes these are only pressed in ) it had me going for a day or two. other problems can be timing belt to tight or loose you can test this by removing the cam cover refit the cas sensor with the cover spacers spacing out the cas about 3mm so the four cam bolts dont touch the cas run engine and watch the belt whip when reving. also put your hand on the cas sensor is it really hot if it is it might be worn out is the manual fan still fitted as this helps cool the cas sensor ? just a few more tips haha good luck mate

yes you will need to run a ignitor as the dis-4 needs a neg trigger. here is a pic i use when wiring in the dis-4 i now its not what you are running but it may help i count find the file i have the wasted spark set up on. c heck the msd forum it may be there also the dis-4 can often over heat if used for anything other than drag racing hope this helps ross honnor [email protected] e

mint

your welcome

hi ben you may need to up your base spring pressure to approx 20 psi after you get your low boost pressure tune finished as you will run out of stable duty cycle using your set up make sure your aux out put is set to 20hz your dc1 numbers may get fairly high like 60 but start at around 10 and work your way up good luck email me if you need a hand [email protected]

give me you email address i will send you a map of a customers gtr to look at it may help you it runs e85 fuel but should give you a good idea of the map shape if tuning on the road i would drop the boost back to say 8- 14 psi keep it nice and low and stable (spring pressure is good ) after all the base timing checks bla bla bla are done set a base map like the one i will send you then turn off the mgp over lay ( i use tps with mgp when road tuning as it is faster and easyier on the dyno i go the other way but thats just me. you choose what way suit you ) run the engine up in third gear slowly adjusting the main fuel to suit you mixture lets say 4000rpm 8psi full throttle 11.7 afr make the 80% 90% and 100% rows the same just so its easy make sure that the accel tps is lifted to at least 3% so it wont upset your tuning also turned off when doing road tuning then run at 2000 rpm set the three top load cells (ie 80 90 100% load cells) carry this on right up to approx 6000 - 6500rpm you will then see that the numbers will start decreasing the higher it goes from this point normally two whole numbers then repeat this process for the 70 to 40% throttle range use 12 afr for this area after this do the light throttle area still using third gear tho use 13 afr for this once this has been done start tuning the 4d table, completete this the same way but you can start at a low rpm and work your way down the map after this is perfect then bring the timing up rule of thumb is 8.5:1 compression 14psi 6000 rpm 16% timing with 96 octane fuel (in new zealand anyway) and every 2psi take out 2deg of timing you will see this in my map when you have sort ed this then you can start bringing the boost up but dont change the tps map EVER if you do start the process again from the start ( this suxs ) take your time and if you think this is easy it isnt it takes time and always watch the knock if you can then bring in your accel etc to finish off the job hope this helps ross honnor [email protected]

mate excuss my bluntness : Dave from Dtech and myself tune these cars in our sleep 24 / 7 . The guys at link (Simon) use him and i and also some others to help with problems like this, Dave worked for link and helped link develop this ecu please listen to him as he is 99.99% of the time correct ( i know as i use him too at times ) where is the o2 reading being taken from? is it the exhaust near the turbo or at the back of the car ? what is the battery voltage doing and at the same time what is the ecu and voltage doing at the fuel pump? what is the fuel flow doing and has it got good fuel reserve, how close to heat does the fuel rail run. what is the dwell timing, what has the injector timing and dead times been set to, does the water and or air temp increase with revs at a unreasonable rate ? is it running a plug and play or wired in ecu ( factory looms have major earth issues that need rerunning somtimes to be any good, what model car as these are all faults that can cause the problem you are having and easily checked by a good dyno shop cheers Ross Honnor [email protected] www.dynotune.co.nz

Hi Chipset if you set the base timing to lets say 10deg at 2000 rpm using the offset control then hold the engine to 4000 rpm and adjust the trim to get the timing light to again read 10deg this may not be needed as the timing maybe perfect but on nissan trirrering you ormally have to adjust a small amount maybe 55 micro sec ( about 2 deg ) this just helps get a more stable tune dont get to tech with it as your tuner willl tune each zone in the ignition map to suit anyway when you tune on a dyno the scatter you will be seeing momenterialy will be chain whip and cas sensor play dont be to worried. hope this helps cheers ross

thanks ashley The problem is im getting logs sent to me from other tuners and people overseas to look at and i would like to play the log at real time as if i was sitting there tuning it and then stop the log at a certain point, then fick over to the tuning page and see where it is on the map. but at the moment if i play a file it wont stop or start. also can we change the afr to lambda ? on a log as it is a pain when reading a log tuned on methanol cheers Ross ps hope all is well donwn there after last nights shake Chipset. if you set up your logging page to suit the ecu you are tuning: ie, rpm, tps, afr water temp etc you can flip back and forth pages to see a afr line, ignition etc

correct me if im not awnsering this correctly The ecu is couting from the first tooth after the missing teeth using trigger one which will be counting the number of degres the engine is turning and the trigger 2 will be telling the ecu which stroke you are on, every 720 crank revolution by giveing it a referance only ( it doesnt matter where as long as its on the cam ) . try not to get the syc pulse timing to close to the missing teeth timing as this will confuse the ecu hope this helps chhers ross

hi mark drop me a email im sending some parts over near you next week i could put some in the for you if you wish 'cheers ross just check your ecu type tho,g4 is the storm the g3 is a differant type of pin?

start with zero in all zones work your way up in 5 whole number increments untill you see some movement make sure you are in open loop and tuning the base duty cycle. i normally change my axis to ( none) on the left side and rpm across the top untill the boost level is stable on the dyno then make the left axis into either mgp or tps depending on how you want to control the rate of boost < drivers preference > what sort of enine are you running ?

you will need to send a tps signal to the 4wd ecu to make it work correctly where are you from i have done many of these drop me a email [email protected]

hi daniel i specilize in nissan cars and i recommend the plug and play there is no real advantage in running the sequential ignition other than the ignition offset form front to rear of the engine approx 4 deg at 8000 rpm a carefull tuner will give you a vey safe and reliable tune on this ecu i run several cars with this set up producing over 400kw at the wheels the option of fitting a adaptor to your harness is time consuming and for little or no real noticable difference. i can make you one up if you still wish drop me a email if you wish to talk more [email protected] cheers Ross Honnor

Hi lawrence mint idea but can you not just do that in the iat fuel table cheers ross