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Craig Jennings

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Everything posted by Craig Jennings

  1. I thought about that one, would be handy if you didn't want to delve into the dash. Nice addition Adam, now we have it covered hopefully!Â
  2. And for those with fine taste in Kiwi metal will be able to identify the backing track
  3. Howdy, Seeing as there is weird info online and not much is clear in regards to driving a high level tacho with a low level signal I figure I'd take mine apart and apply Ohm's Law as I figure it's got to be simple enough surely! 97 Mazda B2200, link atom g4. So I dragged out my tacho You need to see what is + 12V, what is Ground and what is 'switched ground' or whatever that is, signal I suppose, from coil. Now that you've found your signal, check to see what size the resistor is (hopefully there is one and I've not wasted your time). Mine is a through hole resistor which is nice and simple, they may exist in thin film too but those are easy also, don't be discouraged. You'll want a fine tip on your soldering iron though. So mine is a 42k resistor. Now using Ohms law 200V / 42000 = Â ~0.005 amps. (guessed at 200V, might be 400 but with such a large denominator it doesn't really matter) Because we have only 12V to play with we go backwards to find the resistance needed for that amperage 12 / 0.005 = 2400, so we need a 2k4 resistor. So I took out the 42k resistor, replaced with 2k4 resistor and put it back in. Video of tacho working: http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy295/Bangbug_bucket/video-2014-06-30-21-48-13.mp4 RPM sweep works nicely too, thanks link!
  4. Thanks Simon, champion That's all nice and logical and means I can run some LPG injectors later when I need more headaches! Â
  5. Ah, I know what I've done, I've wired my ignition like a subaru! Hahahahaha, shit. Anywho, my question still stands re: injection.Â
  6.  So I should have drive  1 going to inj 1 and 3. Drive  2 going to inj 2 and 4? With 3 and 4 driving nothing.
  7. To tag on I'm doing the same but with 4 cylinders. Way I figured 1-4 running 1-4. But no? So I should have 1 going to 1 and 3 and 2 going to 2 and 4? With 3 and 4 driving nothing. I only get 1 and 3 injecting the way I have it now, does that sound right? Why can't we just have batch where we wire 1 injector per drive? Fire 2 injectors at once. That way when we get trig 2 going we can run sequential? Can I alter the firing seqence or something to change it to accommodate how I'valready wired it? Im running waste spark also.
  8. Hit ENTER!!!!! AH HA! Searching forums is brilliant!
  9. Yeah I thought that could have been the case with the fuel pump relay as I've run everything else as per the manual. I've had it disconnected from the first plug in, though I've changed nothing and it works perfectly now! But the main problem was the +14V being in the position of the Trig 2 and vice versa, FROM THE FACTORY. You may have read that and not been surprised, I thought you may have been though, I certainly was! hahaha.Â
  10. Unit powered up by itself away from loom. So went through the loom... all still seemed fine in loom land. So put the multimeter on the loom and the trigger 2 and +14V had been wired around the wrong way. So out of thousands I got a dud... hahaha, if not for bad luck I'd have none! Swapped those two wires around and all is well in the world! So for future reference, +14V going to trigger 2 will make the units blue light power up. I hope trigger 2 hasn't been affected, the next engine will be making use of it so I guess I'll find out then!
  11. Oh sorry buddy, I picked up one last night and they're willing to lend it but not willing to part with it. NZ. This seems a slow forum so I hope you're hitting up everywhere else Best of luck.Â
  12. That's a solid reply Simon, cheers! I'll give her a spin! Â
  13. Good chance, where in the country are you?
  14. Hooray Logic! (I actually mean that, I'm not being sarcastic)Â
  15. So I spent an hour going through ALL of the PCLink's. There are quite a few. When I have the ECU plugged in it has a little think about updating the firmware, when it's not connected it immediately tells me it's not connected. So it knows something is there. I even tried a few different USB ports and changing the virtual port number and buffers etc etc. So, there we go, I have proven I can do a MUNDANE CHORE THAT I KNOW WILL NOT RESULT IN ANYTHING POSITIVE so now we can do something constructive of my choosing. Will you scream if I pull it apart and play? I should think not, I'll even use a antistatic mat and strap. Fancy fancy. So important questions: (therefore upper case) ARE THERE SOME PINS I CAN BRIDGE AND GIVE THE FUCKER A RESET? ARE THERE SOME PINS I CAN CROC AND FEED IT SOME POWER? ARE THERE PINS FOR SOME OLD FASHIONED SERIAL INTERACTION? (because I don't feel like trying to fiddle through the socket, that's fucking daft and the master dealer I visited didn't have any 'old' looms (new) so I could feed it that way without chopping into my soldered loom) Cheerio.
  16. Yep, it's COM4 it all goes swimmingly until it tries to connect. I've tried a firmware update, perhaps I tried the wrong one. It just came up with the longer list of 'ECU not connected' as opposed to the shorter one when you only try to connect.Â
  17. Hey Rick, any luck buddy?
  18. Headed into a master dealer and they didn't have any 'old' atom looms, hahaha, oh my luck! I think the new ones came out not long after and were $500 cheaper, just to rub it in, lol. Anywho, I will go back and try systematically every GOD DAMN PCLink release, I tried the ones that covered back over a year from purchase date so perhaps I just have a really old one, which if true and is working makes me want to karate things in 80's fashion re: 'you have firmware version xyz' popup. Having no wired internet at home makes this a little harder And if that doesn't work I suppose I'll break out the croc clips and give her some power with NOTHING else attached. MDealer: 'Does the blue light go?' Me: 'Yes, it's a nice solid blue light and the computer recognizes that I've plugged it into the usb port' MDealer: 'Well then you should be able to talk to it' Me: 'Yes, yes I should'. So at the very least, could you look up what firmware this serial number was released with? PCB Rev 1.1 Serial # 15794 IF you don't have an automated pop up to deal with firmware version when connecting to latest PCLink a published list of serial numbers and correlating firmware would be mint. Or tell me if there is one. Or tell me if there is an automated pop up and that I've just fucked up. Does it say to 'download latest PCLink' in the manual? Or 'download specific PCLink for your unknowable firmware'. I forget which. It does seem that clever blokes like you wouldn't have something like this and that it's much more likely my fault. And last but not least, what function(s) does the blue light serve and does it have error codes?
  19. Preamble: 'Howdy, I brought a link as I ended up in over my head with building my own ecu, I couldn't get it to talk to my computer. It turns out I'd done nothing wrong but my OS wasn't co-operating and a nice chap flashed me up some new firmware. But I figure to help myself get the damn ute back on the road I would pull a $1550 trigger and get me a link atom. Unfortunately here I am again with an ecu that I cannot seem to talk to. If any of you know Fred from another interesting ecu project he says 'HAHAHAHAHAHHAHA' but he's also offered to be helpful whenever we get in the same place at the same time, until then, I'd rather have this puppy fire of its own volition. Status: Ecu wired and fired, it has a steady blue light when I give her power which I'm guessing is a good thing, I may have missed the  'status of your led indicates' part of the manual, I did have a gander. Computer shows and 'bings' when the ecu is connected and it shows up happily on both computers I've tested it with in device manager. Tried: I've changed the rates and manual/auto and all kinds of combinations to see if it was just a little bit of stuffiness between the two to no avail. I've tried both a 64 bit win 7 laptop and a 32 bit win xp laptop, they both see the com open (4 and 10 respectively) but PClink gives me 'bongs' which everybody HATES (get a new noise or no noise perhaps?) What would be helpful would being able to know what my firmware version is. That seems like a doddle, connect to PClink, you have XYB please get PClink to suit. The latest version of something KNOWS what has gone before so should know their languages, unless that's what happens but I haven't even gotten that far! hahaha. This has been quite a trying engine conversion as I've had to fight ACC (3 years and ended up 'winning' such as it is) and haven't been able to stand for much of that time so progress on ute has been sporadic to say the least, the fact I haven't lit it on fire and pushed it down a hill probably shows the level of my incapacity as opposed to my mental state. Now another ECU that I can't talk to is bringing back memories better left buried! hahaha. There is a filthy freeEMS puma board which is one crippled and fixed/hacked up piece of hardware that has a pinout that matches my Atom 80km north of me, if that ends up getting plugged in and it talks to me I'll join Fred in some maniacal laughter.
  20. I've been wondering the same thing. Now I'd imagine since a usb is a fairly versatile thing that if you installed the latest version of PClink it'd have a clue what version firmware that the ecu was trying to talk to it in. And if it then knows, it could helpfully inform you that you have XYB firmware version so then we could USE THE RIGHT FKKINJG PClink version.Â
  21. No luck, got an old 32bit XP jobbie and ran a bunch of PC Links. So I can work my way around a windows password but I can't get an ecu to connect to a laptop. Anywho, over to the G4 forum, though it still sounds like we're having the same drama rick, good lucky chap
  22. Oh, I see Scott has a "Staff" logo
  23. Craig Jennings

    Link g4+

    Could you tell us what happened as someone may have the same problem in the future, cheers
  24. I've got a supplier who it turns out has a stack of laptops sitting around doing nothing. Oh how I wish I'd known this sooner! So I'll try 32 bit Win XP and see how she goes. If it all works then I'll try finding an emulator for the win 7 64 bit and see if there is any love there. Though from memory, emulators and USB's are often not friends. Will report my findings anyway, keep your fingers crossed for a solution! Do any Link blokes gander at these forums?Â
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