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Richard McGeachy

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  1. changing the jumper from speed sensor to AC in the adaptalink would help no doubt...
  2. OK i've set an auxilary to AC clutch, i've got the digital input set for the AC request. the AC comes on, gets cold (down to 1 degree!), then switches itself off and doesn't come back on until the car has sat and cooled for a while. its not icing up, the relays and switches are all fine. does the link need any other settings changed in it? both the fans come on as soon as the AC is switched on. is it possible i've upset it when i went around the adaptalink to ground the engine fan request at aux 5? thank you ashley
  3. hi can someone explain the basics of setting up acceleration enrichment? how do you know if you've put too much fuel in versus not enough - aside from a wideband. can i get basically right on the street? i've got the latest version of PClink and the firmware has been upgraded on my P&P LemG3 which is fitted to my 92 RS Turbo wagon. cheers
  4. Make sure that when the DC is set to 0% the engine idles at about 400 RPM (adjust the throttle plate screw). Adjust the screw on the ISC valve to give approx 50% DC at your normal hot idle speed. At what engine temp should I set the DC to 0% and adjust the throttle plate screw? currently my idle starts at 1300rpm cold and settles @ 800rpm hot. corresponding DC %'s 44 down to 30% hot. Also what is the trick to the pro & deriv gain + anti stall. i understand the principles, but i'm trying to get the settings right.
  5. i am running a LEM G3 with the internal 2.5 bar MAP sensor - which has been adequate to date... With a new engine build well on the way and a GT3071 (.84) to hang off the side, i'll be running somewhere around 25psi - i assume i'll need to upgrade my MAP sensor as its beyond the limit of the 2.5 bar unit (~21-22psi gauge pressure). what's involved in upgrading it? can i do it myself with the appropriate tools? is there a way around it? cheers
  6. so that sensor won't work regardless of have the resistance data in 10 degree increments? great thought i'd stuffed up. i'll get one monday. the fans now come on with the key in the acc position - i haven't done anything inside the adaptalink yet - perhaps that track wasn't cut?
  7. the ECU brings up a warning when the intake temp sensor is unplugged - i guess this means my wiring and jumper position is correct. unfortunately the sensor was not purchased from link, it was forgotten and as a result i have got one through an autronic dealer, which i assume suits autronic ECU's. i assume this makes it 'custom' and i need the resistance data. i have tried all the listed sensors - it merely changes the base temp - with little actual fluctuation.
  8. fan problem solved. i earthed the fan relay signal wire out (pre ecu) with the key on, fans came on. the ecu is obviously not grounding the fan signal - because it would appear the adaptalink won't allow it. so i linked the signal wire to the aux 5 wire out of the ecu, switched the polarity to low - bingo fans. does this sound ok?
  9. right - obviously i have a problem with my intake temp sensor - is see little or no variation from 40-45 degrees - regardless of conditions. i run a digital intake temp sensor in the throttle body. it varies exactly as you describe. i have used the AFM signal and ground wire with the sensor - is there anyway to check if its working? the fuses are all fine. checked that first. i have the pinout for the OEM loom - if things are working correctly i should be able to see a voltage change on the engine fan relay signal wire - i'm assuming that the link is not doing that. with the original ECU both fans came on together - not sure if this normal or not.
  10. seem to have got the idle under control now : ) i have put auxiliary 5 on test and i can hear a relay click under the dash. still no fans though.... what sort of variation do you see in your intake temps, at idle, cruise and boost? cheers richard
  11. i've just put the linkg3 into my liberty rs turbo. its was tuned today and running ok: my current issues: - returning to idle (eg clutch in stopping at the lights) - it hunts up and down then stabilises - i assume its something to do with clamping? its set on closed loop. Â - the engine fans aren't coming on at all. they are connected and operate when the aircon is switched on (hard wired in i suspect from factory). auxiliary 5 has been set to engine fans - but nothing happens. the worked fine with the OEM ecu - the intake temp sensor is located in the plenum, will it see enough temp variation in this position - or would it be better in the the intercooler pipework? cheers richard
  12. great! i'll keep an eye out for the firmware update. in mean time i'll check if my tuner has a preference for one way or the other and go from there. cheers
  13. well, the G3 was ordered yesterday - should have it by the end of the week. have also got some 440cc's lined up. another question regarding boost control - i understand the principle of open and closed loop - but how does this apply to boost control? as i understand it an AVCR is a closed loop boost controller, but the link is an open loop with intake and engine temp correction. both vary boost pressure using duty cycle values, with the AVRC having the ability to 'self learn' once you have the initial duty cycle correct. is the link going to do a better job than the AVCR or is there nothing to seperate them? or does come down to the quality of the tuner - fortunately mine tunes subaru's (and the odd late evo) exclusively for a living. thank you for your help ashley!
  14. ahh, no worries - i misinterpreted 'input available'. thanks for clearing that up. i'll be getting my tuner to order one when i see him tomorrow.
  15. i assume this would do this trick with the controller 'inline' http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
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