Ken Dunkley

Hi - I did this to the MSD distributor on my Dodge V8 . I timed the dizzy as you would ordinarily- found the no1 tooth and ground off the remaining 7 . The MSD dizzy had the facility to lock it - so no centrifugal advance comes into play . Also it is a VR type pickup . When i timed the gap on the 60-2 wheel i used - it was approx 90 degrees away from when TDC occurred at the dizzy . I had no issues with phasing of the gaps so cant say either way about that . 

Hi. Any developments to use on Atom?

Well said Ken. I mentioned in another forum that the wideband only measures "burnt fuel" and the cams skew the readings.
Mine Ej engine runs best at cruise .9-.95 with cams rather than the more traditional 1.0+

Hi- An old saying is - An engine wants what it wants - . Perhaps make it richer in the areas where you feel this noticeable bucking. To me this is a sign of running lean . With your cams you can get intake reversion and all sorts of weird pressure waves happening that can effect smooth running . Especially at that point of light throttle and low/medium engine speed . Dont be stuck on A/F targets at this particular problem area - Try it at 0.9 and see how it runs . 

Some old school cars supply different components from the ignition between the " start" position and the "run " position - i wonder if this is at least part of your problem ?? Maybe coils not receiving power on crank ?? Just a thought .  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yF0dT5CAIOs&feature=youtu.be
i have a log file but its to big to send without email but here is how it sounds first start
 

Had a bit of time today so had a quick look at how it'll look before dismantling the Dock to remove the gaming controllers 

To get the information you need add these to your logging:  
AFR/Lambda Target Lambda 1 CL Lamdba Fuel Corr %

Oh hey! 
Havent been up to much with the car lately... I moved to the South Island to take a job in the motorsports industry, so funnily enough I actually ended up moving right near that track shown on the post above. 
It was awesome down there, but some life complications meant I needed to come back.
Some interesting stuff has happened between now and the last time I posted though I guess...

Firstly I had the windscreen smash which was fun! 



Then I competed through the time atttack series which was good fun, cut a little bit short by me moving away. But I was determined to make my "Street class" car as streetable as possible... Drove it to-from events and even used the car for camping near the events.



At one of the events I had one of the outer injectors in my staged injection setup fail - due to a rusty fuel tank and blocked up fuel filter which obviously let some debris through. 
So I had to roadside retune the car back to primary injectors only, then set a new fastest lap once the engine was running right. 
Since then I switched to a Seimens 850cc "shorty" injector, this gives me more clearance to the bonnet which was needed.
I made up some MSpaint style stickers for the numbers that I needed for the race series, also at the event furthest from home (about 6-7 hours drive) I ended up having the front universal joint in my driveshaft explode which sucked! 



Ended up getting towed all of the way home by some friends who unloaded their car off the trailer so I could get home. Which was much appreciated.

On the ECU side of things, I've got a few changes to plan coming up. 
I have just been working through populating the table to run my tacho as a combined tacho and fuel economy meter, using virtual aux conditions to switch between them automatically depending on what the car is doing. 
So currently I am thinking that when RPM is between 2000 and 4000, rate of acceleration below (something) and speed is above say 60kph the tacho switches over to the fuel economy meter. 
I dont see a way to achieve this apart from wiring two auxiliary outputs to the same tacho input, and switching between them using virtual aux. But I've got some left over so that's fine. 
I also want to setup something using CAN, I have been meaning to double check the accuracy of my analog wideband input so I might kill two birds with one stone and buy the link Can wideband module some time soon.
I've got a lot of DIs left over so will be looking at setting up wheel speed sensors as well, it will be interesting to see how much my LSD is slipping or locking under different circumstances.
It will be interesting to have a play with the traction control system when this is setup, not that a car with this power level particularly needs it. Might come in handy on wet trackdays though! 

I saw a cool idea where someone was using a K type thermocouple dragging against a brake disc to measure brake temperatures. I've been meaning to get some temperature paint or similar to find out how hot the front gets, as I wear out brake pads quite quickly. 
So for sake of interest I might do something similar while I'm setting up wheel speed sensors. Or maybe even a K type just sitting against the brake pad, I guess that's really what you're trying to measure and prevent from overheating.

It might also be fun to setup 4x EGT or 4x wideband, one for each runner but would look at doing this with a CAN based solution.

Apart from that not much else going on, just driving the car and enjoying it.
I like having the car NA and fairly simple but realistically for the time attack stuff I've been doing this means my car is mid pack at best. 
It's heeaapppss of fun though, with some great people and I still wince at the extra engine bay complication of forced induction. As the whole point of this car is to keep things simple. 

I have been having some thoughts lately about starting a new build using maybe a Suzuki cappucino or a Honda Beat. 
Just because they are awesome, and I like the gimmick of tiny cars. Both options will most likely be slower than my existing car haha.
Maybe a Toyota MR-S or similar would be a more sensible starting point.
(Or just go on holidays to Fiji etc instead and enjoy the car I've got!) 

What if you could tune by voice . Have a mic connection and for example on fuel say - MARK - UP or DOWN - and SAVE .  It could mark the active cell . Raise or lower the amount in the cell by a pre determined amount ( say 0.1 or 0.5 lambda or Whatever you want )  and obviously - save . Safe tuning on the fly - Can you do it ?

Hi- Just noticed on your trigger 1 screen - the multi tooth position says ' cam ' . If its on the crank wont it be reading at half engine speed ?