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  1. Google once again is your friend...
  2. iceman

    Fuel pump controller

    Barge, I understand that it is the negative (3) from the pump that is PW modulated but regarding the positive pump pin (6), is that just a tap into your battery feed direct to the fuel pump or do you feed power from the battery through the controller supply (4) then out the pump positive pin (6) to the pump? Cheers.
  3. Excellent. Thanks Adam.
  4. Hi Adam, After looking at this again, I believe it does as per the highlighted help file info below. Presumably you would need "hold power" configured to keep the ECU alive after key off to get the fan to run for a short configured time period after shutdown. I don't have hold power set up so I think I could achieve the fan cut during cranking by just entering 0 secs in the time out value as power will be on to the ECU during start. The only possible issue would be does the ECU see RPM while only cranking with ignition/ECU on as it is only a zero RPM time lockout and not an actual RPM level lockout? I'm not in a position to immediately try this myself. Cheers. Engine Fan Settings: · Non Driven Speed Lockout - The Non Driven wheel speed above which engine fan and condenser fan operation will disable. This setting has a hysteresis of 5 kph. If set to 0.0 kph the lockout will be ignored. If set too low the engine could overheat. · RPM Zero Timeout - The amount of time the Engine Fan will run for once the engine speed is zero. It is useful to set this timer so the system will continue cooling, but not flatten the vehicles battery. This timer is only active while the ECU has power, if the ignition key kills the engine and turns off power to the ECU then the timer will not run. · Engine Fan X Temperature - The temperature ECT must reach for Engine Fan X to turn ON. · Engine Fan X Hysteresis - The number of degrees ECT must decrease below the Engine Fan X Temperature before the Engine Fan X will turn OFF. It is required to eliminate short fan cycles. · Engine Fan X on with AC - If set to Yes Engine Fan X will turn ON one second after AC Clutch activates. The one second delay is to spread the increased engine load from the AC Clutch and condenser fan turning ON.
  5. iceman

    Fuel pump controller

    OK to result this, I think I have finally worked out that the "fuel pump" aux out is just replaced with "fuel pump control" on the same aux channel if you want to run a PWM speed controller. I see the latter has a prime time setting as well so "fuel pump" and "fuel pump control" are basically combined on the single aux channel used instead of separate channels like the OEM wiring diagram I have been confused over. Adzn3K , the pin out on the "Continental" PWM fuel pump controller a few posts up has it's socket pins clearly numbered 1-6, cast into the plastic socket on the inside surface. That corresponds to the wiring diagram above, eg: pins 1 - 6 correspond to pins C4ES15/1- C4ES15/6. Note: you don't need the monitor pin C4ES15/2, only the other 5 pins.
  6. Hi, Trying to work out how to temporarily disable the engine fan on engine start to lower overall battery current draw when cranking. I have start position wired through a DI channel and fan control through an Aux as usual. I'm hoping it can be accomplished using a virtual GP channel from there but cannot quite get the conditions/switch logic right.....Am I on the right track? Some advice would be appreciated. Cheers.
  7. iceman

    Fuel pump controller

    This is obviously a related thread to that from Adzn3K as to options for speed controlling fuel pump(s). Pros and cons re the added fuel system complication aside, I am looking at wiring and configuring a "Continental" brand (same as the NZEFI and Barge's one above) fuel pump controller. The way I understand it, an Aux channel is required for turning on the fuel pump relay and presumably another aux channel will be required to control the PWM signal to the controller. However, the fuel pump control section of the Link help files states that the dual/triple "fixed" speed control methods require 2 aux channels, one for the pump relay, the other for the controller switching, which makes sense. But then it says the three stage PWM speed controller method only requires one Aux channel... How then is the fuel pump relay then switched on? Can someone clarify please. Cheers.
  8. iceman

    Fuel pump controller

    Thanks, barge. After further digging I had actually sussed that the NZEFI unit was the same as some Range Rover, Jag, Volvo and Ford (Euro) pieces after posting. I had found many for sale on ebay and even one here in NZ (ex Mondeo) which I have bought circa $NZ125 and am waiting for it to arrive. The NZEFI units are apparently back in stock mid month with a loom plug. The only difference between theirs and the OEM ones is they have cleaned them up and mounted them on an additional alloy(?) plate, presumably for extra heat sink capacity. I have also found pin out info for the units from another person online adapting them but confirmation from whatever diagram you have would be good thanks. If I can't source a loom plug locally for it I'll adapt an inline connector/loom or get back to you. The jaguartroy link you posted appears to be for an earlier or later, plastic cased version rather than the alloy heat sink boxed unit. No doubt it would do the same job in enabling PWM of a fuel pump via the Link G4+ ECUs. Scott C: Saw that thread during a search thanks. No definite outcome as a long term fix as yet from what I read. Stevieturbo: Running a newish high CCA rated battery with a charging alternator thanks. Chasing a bad hot start issue by continually test cranking on the starter and having the fuel pump prime every time still tends to discharge the battery. I'm now running a second battery in parallel with jumper leads just while chasing the issue which has improved the situation. I still feel a proper variable speed control of the pump will have several advantages, not just lower electrical load. Cheers.
  9. iceman

    Fuel pump controller

    Hi, I have a Walbro 255L in tank pump in a Nissan Z32 project car which is presently configured through a G4+ as simply on/off through a relay. I'm finding it hard on battery life during tuning, especially chasing a hard start issue. As a means of lowering the current draw, electrical and pump duty plus to generally finesse the fuel delivery system, I'm after a fuel pump controller. Either a PWM or fixed two or three stage speed type like the original Z32 unit would be good but more reliable as I bypassed the OEM controller some time ago after fuel pressure issues. Link reseller NZEFI did sell an OEM looking unit a while back which is no longer available but can anyone recommend another make/type that I can adapt to the job running the G4+ ECU? The aftermarket Aeromotive and AEM units are a tad expensive... Cheers, Pete.
  10. iceman

    Can lambda set up issue

    Thanks again Richard. Set up as directed and running now. Cheers.
  11. iceman

    Can lambda set up issue

    Richard, Simon, Thanks for the quick replies. As Richard suggested, I had a senior moment with the can hi and lo ECU input wires crossed and now have the can lambda device showing. I've saved the settings and cycled the power. Next question is how to get the can lambda WB reading as a digital qauge (prefer in AFR units) showing on my tuning dashboard. Looking down the runtime values choice list, the CAN folder shows at the bottom but which actual parameter out of the 4 Can sub folders do I select for the gauge to read? Thanks again. Pete.
  12. Hi, Finally went to a Link can lambda WB device to replace an older PLX analog type but having problems setting it up. Followed the instructions from the Can lambda manual on the Link Electro website and have studied the subject matter on PC Link help pages but can't get my Storm G4+ wire in to "find" the Canbus device as per part 6 of the programming instructions. Phone pics of the Can setup/mode and Can setup/can devices pages from PC link attached, the latter indicating the Can device cannot be found. Also pic of the G4+ wire in ECU header connector to can cable being used. Only difference is that I've wired on an aftermarket inline 2 pin plug/socket connector to the Can hi and low (green and white) wires instead of fitting the original connector pins shown, into my ECU header plug. This new connector wiring is proven. Running firmware Confirming I have power and earth to the can lambda device. Where am I going wrong? Cheers.
  13. Old thread I know but to result it for others, Nissan Z32 300ZX running a Storm black, the above circuit works perfectly in converting the Link ECU "speedo" DC output to an OEM AC wave form in order to run the OEM speedo. From this forum lurker, excellent support, Cheers.
  14. Hi, G4+Storm running a Nissan VH45DE(+T). Engine has been running on a rough initial starting, warm up and idling tune only. Went to recheck the trigger calibration with a timing light while idling at normal temp and found the engine running slightly advanced by approximately 3 degrees from my initial calibration set up. However when putting the engine in "set base timing" mode another timing light check shows the timing marks (15 degrees BTDC) spot on again?? My first question is do I just leave the offset setting as is when in "set base timing" mode and ignore the obvious timing mark misalignment under normal conditions or the opposite? I've found I can get the marks aligned reliably under normal conditions by factoring in the 3 degrees when in "set base timing mode". Second question related to this is the ignition timing delay setting. Again, when locked, no movement between timing marks but in normal running mode it moves with throttle input regardless of the delay setting entered. I'm using the OEM Nissan CAS fitted with a 24 tooth disc, have had no problems with the triggers since being set up with the engine running fine apart from this discrepancy since. Am I missing something? Cheers, Pete. vh45det1.pclr
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