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Ivaylo Angelov

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Everything posted by Ivaylo Angelov

  1. Hi Clint, OK, but when I'm setting the SW Cond2 for Virtual Aux 1-GP Output, there is avaiable only "Aux Virtual value 2=ON (OFF)" from the pull-down menu? It seems I have to use for SW Cond 1 the Virt.Aux1 own on/off state. Only then the pull-down menu offers "Aux Virtual value 1=ON (OFF)". ...Or I'm totally out of space? Please, would you check this again for me? Thank you!
  2. OK, Here are my new settings: Virtual Aux 1 as a GP Output: Virtual Aux 1.bmp Virtual Aux 2 (for the intercooler coolant temperature) as a GP Out: Virtual Aux 2.bmp and the FAN control Aux Output set as a GP Out: Fan control Aux as a GP Out.bmp I understand your logic and it corresponds to the examples given in the Help menu. What bothers me is the Fan's GP Output setup. Why SW Cond 2 is again "Aux Virtual Value 1=ON" ? (Actually there is no other choise but "Aux Virtual Value 1=ON" in the "SW Cond" menu!?) What, where from are the values 135 and 75 on the attached screenshot (Fan ctrl as a GP Out)? I didn't put them there. What do you think? Thanks! Ivo PS: Aha! OK! You!!!! have adopted "1" and "2" as Aux Virtual VALUES! for SW Cond 1 and SW Cond 2 ? Does that distinguish for sure betveen Virtual Aux 1 Out and Virt. Aux 2 Out in the Fan Control GPOut setup? SW Cond 1 Aux Virtual Value1 = ON | 1 SW Cond 2 Aux Virtual Value1 = ON | 2
  3. Thank you Clint! I'll try these settings. It seems though, there is no support for G4 since New Year !??? I hope this wont be "forever"...
  4. Knock, knock...? Is there anyone from the famous Link tech support?
  5. Hello all and Happy New Year! Please, I need an advice how to switch ON and OFF the engine fan based on two different temperatures. The fan is located behind two radiator cores, sealed inbetween. The front core is for the air-water intercooler system. The rear core is the engine cooling radiator. So, my aim is to switch ON the fan based on the ECT and also on the IC coolant temperature (there is a dedicated temp sensor connected and calibrated to AN volt 8 input). So far checked the engine fan AUX output as GP Output with logic cond 1 OR 2 (Cond 1 is ECT. Cond 2 is AN Volt8) and it seems it should work OK. What bothers me is that for GP Output there is no temperature hysteresis value but only a switch OFF timer delay value with max 12s only! That means if any of the temeratures falls slowly, the fan will be switched OFF (after 12s) but the actual coolant teperature drop could be just 2-3 C !? Is there another way or logic for the engine fan control so I could achieve my aim but using OFF Hysteresis temperature for both values? Can I connect another! AUX Out to the same Fan relay pin as the "Engine Fan" Aux Output, so the Fan relay will receive ground signal from two independent Aux Outputs? What function to choose for the other AUX Out? It is G4 Xtreme Red ecu. Thank you! Ivo
  6. Or may be this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/car-40P-81P-engine-wiring-harness-plug-121P-121-PIN-1J0-906-385C-038-906-379B/32723477544.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.tgK62G&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_5460015_10152_10065_10151_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_5470015_10304_10307_10137_10060_10302_10155_10154_10056_10055_10054_5370015_10059_10532_100031_10099_10338_10339_5380015_10103_10102_10052_10053_10107_10050_10142_10051_10171_10326_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_5590015_10111_10112_10113_10114_143_10312_10313_10314_10078_10079_10073,searchweb201603_17,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=a642adc7-df9b-4fff-bdbf-2724dfd07660&algo_expid=b311710b-89e4-4fb8-9e19-59ba78ecc360-0&algo_pvid=b311710b-89e4-4fb8-9e19-59ba78ecc360
  7. Hi Will, May be you should hit the "Enter" button before the "Done" one. Check this thread: http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/7172-trigger-offcet-menu-is-locked/
  8. Hello Adam, Just a little feedback. The engine is running on the factory settings. It is pig rich but running. First I tried with -84 deg offcet but received a pop inside the manifold. Then changed to 276 deg and it started like an OEM :-). The timing light showed 277 deg offcet is the perfect match. I checked the settings. The master was 15ms which appears to be too high for my 60lb Siemens Deka injectors at 45psi base pressure. I'm very happy with my Link ECU so far. Especially with the "Differential pressure" channel. A very, very useful thing. I'm still discovering the ecu's possibilities :-)) Here is a short video with the factory settings "in charge" engine start. Only 3"diameter short down pipe from the turbo. The idle is on two wire Bosch solenoid valve. Some problems with the alternator charging because I switched to a LED lamp. Fixed now. Made some changes to the master fuel (13) and the idle table. Also added a straight muffler to the DP. Now I can hear the empty hydr.lifters knockng: Thank you very much! Ivo
  9. Ah, Now, the Offcet number is already on its place. What confused me so far was that I always tried with the "Done" button in the "Set Base Timing" screen instead to hit the "Enter" one. Everything is OK now!!! Thank you! Ivo
  10. Hello Adam, You're always here when needed ! I'm glad I bought Link Ecu :-)) So.. in the "Set Base Timing" screen I have to enter the -84 (or 276),. hit the Enter button and then to... attempt to crank/start the engine? Also my synch trigger is a "Half moon" type with the window centered exactly "over" the gap on the 60-2 trigger wheel according to the scope. Hall sensor. The synch mode is set to "Cam Level" Are these signal alignment and synch setting correct? Endless thanks again for your support! Ivo
  11. Hello guys, I'm pretty close to the first engine start but I'm in a dead end with the trigger offcet settings. My be I'm blind but I just don't find where to enter my offcet number because the PC Link trigger calibrarion menu is locked for the offcet degree number. My VW VR6 12V engine has 60-2 target wheel on the crank and the TDC 1st cyl is 84 deg (on 14-th tooth) after the gap has passed the CAS in the direction of rotation. My understanding is that I have to enter first the offcet number then the Ref timing number and at the end using a timing light via the "Set Base Timing" sub menue to fine tune the Trigger Offcet degrees. I guess I miss something though. Your advice is highly needed. Thanks! Ivo Here is my pcl file: Vagvaz.pcl Vagvaz.pcl
  12. Hello Adamw, No, it is a Hall sensor. I'm explaining how I wired it to my G4. I was advised here to use shielded cable for the Hall sensor as well, but my cable has only 2 wires surrounded by shield. In its original OEM instalation, the Hall wiring consist of just 3 wires, no shield. Thank you!
  13. Hello Scott, please, would you confirm my 12V Hall sensor connection or not? Its cable is shielded with two insulated leads inside : Hall (-) to G4 sensor shield; Hall signal to Trig 2; Hall (+12v) to switched 12V supply Thanks one more time for your support!
  14. Hello dear Link users and masters, I have few simple questions. I want to wire few switches to the DI 7-10, so I could switch low/high boost maps, check the clutch pedal position, enable anti lag, etc. The first question is, what GND should I use? The chassis GND or the ECU sensor GND? The second one: My engine has an OEM NTC single wire oil temp sensor and I want to use it to measure the oil temp. It is installed on the oil filter bracket. I have (want) to connect it to Analog Volt 9 input. Is it possible and what is the correct way for that? The third: I have AFX Powerdex WBO2. Where is the right place to connect the controller GND wires (two)? The last one: My sync sensor is a +12V Hall one. Can I connect it to Trig 2 input? Should I also turn ON the "Trigger Pull-up Resistor " ? Endless thanks in advance! I'm in the middle of a wiring madness :-)
  15. Thank you very much! I'll try it without the suppressor and IF something is not good, then... :-)
  16. Thank you Neil! Yeah, I found the websites but I can't find the exact item to match my needs :-( I need a direct link to the item I have to buy. But what about the installing or not this suppressor? Is it going to be fatal for my G4 or my engine work? Thanks again!
  17. Hello guys, I'm wiring my G4 Xtreme with LS2 truck coils. I need an advice how bad is if I just don't wire the pictured +12V suppressor (condenser)? Where I could find / buy suitable ones? (I'm located in EU) Thank you!
  18. Hi, My be this link will give you the answers needed. Just watch all 4 parts: Enjoy...
  19. Hi, I'm sorry but I have to ask few more questions because I can't find the answers in the G4 manual. I'm doing the wiring right now so please, would you answer on these: 1. My Trig.1 sensor is 3 pin VR sensor. Its cable is 20cm long only and ends in 3pin connector. One of the pins is cable's shield. So, I'll use 3pin female connector and I'll run (continue) with a shielded cable up to the G4 connector. Here, one of the cables is to be connected to TRIG1, the second - to SENSOR GND(green) and the shield - to SHIELD/GND(green), not to the SENSOR GND!? Or it doesn't matter since they are the same cable inside the G4? The same is for all shielded cables(I mean the shield connection). Is that correct? 2. My TRIG2 sensor is a 12V HALL one. Do I need to use shielded cable for it? 3. I couldn't find information whether the knock sensors should be wired in with shielded cables or not? My sensors are BOSCH 0 261 231 006 with just 2 pin male EV1 connector built in. 4. My Link 4bar MAP sensor has 3 cables (cut). I guess the green cable (pin4) is the Sensor GND. The red/blue one (pin 7) is +5V, and the white one (pin 5) is the output signal. Can you confirm that? Thank you!
  20. Thank you Simon! This is my hobby during the weekends. It is a project for complete transformation of a 1982' LADA 2105. Will post info in the project section here when it gets close to the first engine start. Regards!
  21. I'm sorry for asking again but if my crank sensor is on the missing tooth gap before 1st cyl.TDC , what level should I set for my cam hall sensor for fast synch and engine start? High, low or doesn't matter? Thanks a lot! Ivo
  22. Hello, I'm owner of a 2nd hand Link G4 Xtreme (red) but the ecu wiring harness is cut. Now, I want to extend the cables to suit my current needs. Please, could you provide me the with the cables cross section (mm2) of the original wiring harness? I actually can see the remaining cables thickness but I'm not proficient in that matter, so I can't guess it by looking only. ...and another question please. How bad would be if my 4bar (black) MAP sensor is mounted directly on the inlet manifold? I can make good thermal insulation and some vibration dampening (rubber washers) in between. At the moment, the sensor is attached 10mm away from the manifold on two welded 10x10mm blocks, i.e. like this: Endless thanks in advance! Ivo
  23. Бегай на некое дино, щото 'trusted' мапера нÑма да ти купи бутала И каква е теориÑта за ÐºÑŠÑ Ñ…Ð¾Ð´- голÑм аванÑ?
  24. I was lucky and recently bought one of these: Unfortunately these are not sold any more.
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