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Matt Dunn

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  1. Matt Dunn

    ECU upgrade

    Kind of answered the question, Can I load the Map from a G4+ Storm into a G4+ Extreme. Obviously I will have to change the settings for the extra inputs/ouputs that the new ECU will have, but is it as simple as connecting to the extreme and then opening the map from the storm and then doing a store?
  2. Matt Dunn

    ECU upgrade

    Hi I have a question , I currently have a LINK G4+ storm blue in my car but, but really want to have some more inputs and outputs as want to add some more features. I was looking at changing to the Storm Black, but I run traction control in my race car and it appears that the new Storm Black does not have that feature? Is that correct.? Other option is we are also building another car, so I could put my current blue storm into that as that car will be more basic, and would have to go for the Black Extreme G4+ into my car. Other than having to fit an external map sensor, what else would I have to change? Are the A plug the same wiring between the Blue Storm and the Black Extreme? Can I load the map from one to the other? Thanks Matt
  3. Matt Dunn

    3T-GTE Ignition Systems

    Ok then sounds good. So to trigger the coils, we will need to fire two coils at once, can I run a 4 channel igniter and use wasted spark mode in the ECU and split ignition drive 1 to two channels of the igniter, or is the output of the igniter not strong enough to trigger 2 channels?
  4. Matt Dunn

    3T-GTE Ignition Systems

    Hi all, We are building a 3T-GTE and are planning on running multicoil and are doing away with the distributor cap and rotor. We have modified a distributor to take the sensor out of a 4AGE 20V dist, so it will have a 24 tooth and a single tooth signal. First question is where do we time it? I think that with the G4+ you can adjust the base timing to where ever, but we have the ability to place the pickup anywhere on the shaft, so is there any place that is better than another. Is the single pulse better to ocour exactly at TDC no1, 10 deg before TDC, 20 deg before TDC, or does it really not make any difference. Second question is, the engine is a 4 cylinder, but uses 8 sparkplugs, 2 per cylinder. We were thinking of using 4 wasted spark coils to fire the 8 plugs. Are we better to run one coil with both leads to the same cylinder, or run true wasted spark, and fire two coils each time. First way would be simplier, but then the coil has to fire two plugs under compression load rather than one under compression load and one under almost no load?
  5. Matt Dunn

    Linkplus Lexus V8 Trigger wiring

    I have been given the task of wiring a Linkplus G1 to the Lexus V8 and have a couple of questions. I think it is a Linkplus V14 and has lexusv8 on the sticker on the end so I presume it has the right sub board in it. First question is on the trigger wiring. There is two shielded wires in the loom for triggers, a grey and a black, which appear to have a trigger wire, a Shield and a wire that I think went to the 8V feed? The two wires from the crank and cam sensors, do i connect them to the power feed and the trigger signal wire, or do I connect to the Trigger wire and the shield wire and that the power feed wire in the loom is not used. Second question is if I scope the triggers I take it that the crank trigger will look similar to a toyota 24 tooth signal, and the camshaft one will be a single pulse?. It is probably easier for me to work out the trigger wiring by scoping the signals than by actually getting to the sensors themselves. Matt
  6. Matt Dunn

    1980's Toyota VSS

    There is a reed switch in the speedo head, and it switches to earth. You do need an external pullup resistor which is usually inside the Factory ECU. There may be a few other things connected to the wire which may be giving you some sort of a signal that you are seeing, but I would guess that adding a decent pullup resistor to it will fix the issue. Usually they give a very good clean signal, and you only seem to be getting very low voltage, less than 500mv. Usually will be a 5V or 12V square wave.
  7. Matt Dunn

    Traction Control Disable

    Was just playing with the program earlier thinking that as using an output from the ECU to switch and Input to the ECU seems like a waste of two inputs/ouputs, where it should be able to be done internally.
  8. Matt Dunn

    Traction disable by virtual aux

    Yes by using a virtual aux option to switch off traction control would be a benefit in my situation too.
  9. Matt Dunn

    Traction Control Disable

    Could be an option. I already have a switch on the steering wheel as traction disable, so I suppose I could hook an auxillary output to it as well, and switch it off gear position or speed.
  10. Matt Dunn

    Traction Control Disable

    Hi all, Looking for a way to disable traction control in my race car in 1st gear. The car has a very high first gear and does not come on boost untill about 4400 rpm, which means that it comes on boost at about 50kmh. This requires a reasonable amount of wheelspin to get it off the line, and I had it sussed pretty well as the car is RWD. I recently added the software update to run full traction control, and it seems to work pretty well, but I need to manually turn it off for the start of each race and then back on again one off the start line. In the settings the maximum speed lockout is 25kmh, which is too slow, and I have a slip threshold table with gear on one axis, but the maximum slip allowed is 50% which is not enough. Is there any other way that I can disable it in 1st gear?
  11. Matt Dunn

    Boost Gear Target Trim Table operation?

    Hi there, I run the closed loop boost control from the Link G4+ Storm. I also run a adjustable boost switch on the dash to change between settings. All this works fine and has no issues. I have the Boost Target Table currently with Boost Adjust on one axis and Wheel slip % on the other axis and don't want to change them unless I have to, as it works well on the track. What I am wanting to achive is to raise the boost by 1 - 2 psi while in 4th gear only. I see there is a Boost Gear Target Trim Tabel which looks like it will do what I want. "This gear base target trim table adds or subtracts an offset from the value in the boost target table based on gear position" My question is what is the Offset? is that adding a percentage to the boost target or adding a number to the boost target? If the boost target is normally 220kpa and I want the target to be 240kpa in 4th gear, what number do I enter in the gear table? 20 for an extra 20kpa or 9.1 for an extra 9.1% to get 240kpa? I presume one of those is the correct answer or am I on the wrong track? Any other downsides to working it this way? Matt
  12. Matt Dunn

    Solenoids keeping ECU powered up

    What stops the power going in Aux 8 and back out of the ECU power feed to the acc relay?
  13. Matt Dunn

    Solenoids keeping ECU powered up

    I can see where the problem is as it took me ages to find the reason when my car did the same. While you switch the ignition switch off, the power flows through the boost solenoid into the AUX8 on the ecu, back out of the +14V in terminal of the ecu and backwards into the ignition relay. As you have turned off the power to the ignition relay, what was the power terminal is now earth and power flows backwards through the relay windings keeping the relay on.  One solution is fit a diode inline with the power to the ECU, but that can cause low voltage issues under cranking, or change the feed to the ignition relay so it is switched from the same feed that switches the main relay, not the output from it.. If that is a diagram supplied by link, then they have it wrong as that does not work. Â
  14. Matt Dunn

    Launch RPM activation table

    I have had a play at the track and ended up going back to a single launch RPM, and using a 4D ign map with slip on one axis to help as well. I found that I could get it to feel like it was taking off really well, but will only be able to tell in a proper race situation if it is any good against other cars off the line. I ended up with a RPM of 4500, but If I tried 4600 all I got was wheelspin, and if I tried 4400 it would bog down and I would need to dip the clutch. Just hoping for more consistancy, and I am 2wd and race against mostly 4wd's, when I got a good start I could match them off the line, but would only get a good start 1/2 the time as it was very sensitive on launch rpm. I take it that 100rpm is the minimum amount of change allowed as it would not let me enter 4450 or 4550. Matt  Â
  15. Matt Dunn

    Launch RPM activation table

    Ok so I think I have figured out how most of it works, but I dont understand how to work out the RPM for the Launch RPM tables? I would rather work it out and have it close rather then alter it at the track rather than start from scratch at the track. The help file says So as an example, to find the RPM value for 0% slip at 25 kph, assuming the digital input has a calibration number of 260, and the un-normalised gear ratio is 169.3:  0% slip RPM = (Speed x Cal x Ratio) / 360 = (25 x 260 x 169.3) / 360 = 1100450 / 360 = 3057 RPM So the calibration number will be the calibration number for the driven wheels? and the normalised gear ratio, is that the gearbox ratio in 1st? or the gear and diff ratio's? The speed sensor is driven from the back of the gearbox, not the actual wheels, does that make a difference? I am unsure what the normalised gear ratio is? 1st gear is 2.3 and diff is 4.3.  Cal number is 275 for rear wheel speed   Â
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