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Juho Parssinen

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  1. Hi Marcus I had same kinds of problems, here is how I get those solved:, Thanks Simon!! -Getting signal from trigger 1 -Check TWICE that trig 2 is CAM setting or NONE (for testing) -Shut down every tables that are not needed to get engine running. All boost and motorsport features specially. -Still same problem? Connect trig 1 wires to sensor, to different pins. It is possible that your wiring is gone wrong way. ECU wants to see positive side of wave. Put arming stress to level 2 and value tables to 0,2. Try. If you are getting no trig errors (ctrl F10-->tring error counter) try to rise arming streshold table until you are getting some. Then decrease for 1. Now you should have RPM. Is your crank reluctor type with 2 or 3 wires? If it with 3, that is shield ground. You can connect that pin to LINK tring 1 shield if you want but thats not necessary. Is your trigger wires installed near (below 1cm) charger or coils? Or starter motor? If so, move it away. Simon tells more -j- Previously Magnus Nygren wrote: Hello! I´m doing an installation of a G4 Atom to my Ford 2L and I have problems to get signal from the crank sensor. I have normal values from inlet air temp, watertemp, Map-sensor and TPS-signal. When I perform an ignition test it also works fine and I get a signal to the timing lamp. I have no errors in the Ecu. I have chosen Wasted Spark and original Ford 36-1 trigger wheel. In all cases I get the same result. I can see in Runtime Values when I'm cranking that signal changes from No to Yes from Trigger 1, but I can´t get any ignition spark and I don´t see any RPM-value I have tried following things without result: 1. I started with original Ford reluctor cranksensor. I have tried to shift wire. I have measured distance between sensor and trigger Wheel. 2. I have bought a new Ford sensor and also shifted the wires 3. I have checked the wires from the sensor to the Ecu (Black Cable for trigger 1) 4. I bought a new reluctor sensor from the Swedish dealer Motor Nord and have tried to shift wires again, measured distance etc. 5. I have in all cases above tried to decrease arming threshold  What have I done wrong? Please can you help me.  /Magnus  Â
  2. Previously Magnus Nygren wrote: Hello! I´m doing an installation of a G4 Atom to my Ford 2L and I have problems to get signal from the crank sensor. I have normal values from inlet air temp, watertemp, Map-sensor and TPS-signal. When I perform an ignition test it also works fine and I get a signal to the timing lamp. I have no errors in the Ecu. I have chosen Wasted Spark and original Ford 36-1 trigger wheel. In all cases I get the same result. I can see in Runtime Values when I'm cranking that signal changes from No to Yes from Trigger 1, but I can´t get any ignition spark and I don´t see any RPM-value I have tried following things without result: 1. I started with original Ford reluctor cranksensor. I have tried to shift wire. I have measured distance between sensor and trigger Wheel. 2. I have bought a new Ford sensor and also shifted the wires 3. I have checked the wires from the sensor to the Ecu (Black Cable for trigger 1) 4. I bought a new reluctor sensor from the Swedish dealer Motor Nord and have tried to shift wires again, measured distance etc. 5. I have in all cases above tried to decrease arming threshold  What have I done wrong? Please can you help me.  /Magnus   Any news on this case? I do have same kind of problems with Storm G4. (Bought around 9 months ago from Sweden) I have just now (finally) installed it to my friends ride and I dont get triggers either. No signal at all. I have checked wiring, sensors, software by simon etc. Tomorrow I gonna drive the firmware again, and if it doesnt help I'll try my own Extreme. If it works I really need to hope that Link has some kind of quarantee their products... 'Couse this Storm is brand new one, an used item wich has been lying on my bookcase few months...
  3. Hi In Finland we have sort of vehicle inspection were is checked up also OBD system also. There must be no fault codes like lambda and triggers etc.. Shortly obd port must be empty of fault codes wich can be lighten up engine failure lamp. This kind of system is also in sweden and in few other countries too. Can link operate 'OBD' buss via CAN? If it is possible, please give me some information... I can look up what kind of information original obd gives out by a tester and volt meter and then the problem is get out similar signals from LINK. This system will help a lot of inspections and also will give more sales. Any idea how original fuel consumption meters and 'drivingconmputers' are working? Idea is to install extreme to vauxhall astra z20LEH by using E85 like a flexfuel system, and also get origal system working. Yes I know this is not plug'n play version of installation..
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