Fredrik Pettersson

Just dont do an injector test with an active fuel system ! (I know this is ignition test but an extra warning doesn't hurt)

bmw m52 trigger / vanos settings work fine. angles you need to check with a timing light. as for dbw i dont know as I'm using a m52 throttle body.

I had alot of problems adjusting for cold start >0c , then I thought of instead of adding fuel why not decrease air. dropped the idle speed base position abit and it starts happily everytime nowÂ

if the tuner (or you) active the cll(closed loop lambda) then you wont have to worry about anything

It tells us that the wastegate is not at fault. what you should do is look at the wastegate table while running the car , if it stays in one cell 100% or 0% depending on your plumbing) then one of the axises are to blame. if it moves between cells fine I don't know really as you've tried different controllers,have a table,plumbing ok,and working wiring im on my phone so I cant look at your pcl file , but having an axis as an volt sounds really weird , generally I would have map vs rpm.

Jono please get your car to a tuner. if you want to build a map from scratch do it with a tuner, the step from not being able to set your error voltages to building a map is astronical. the engine fan being on is a result of the aux used being switched to ground.

http://www.linkecu.com/forums/G4Forum/601464348?b_start=0#468517266

If you arent using the %slip then i think you could use it. there was a post about clutch slip not long ago , ill ser if i can find it

David , which system would you consider 10 or 20 times radier to 'program' (is this tuning you mean or wiring or just configuring ?)

Just wire a single resistor to each injector , a 10ohm should be fine. im more worried about your voltage level..

good ECU choice when you have it wired in make sure to relay every power going in , and have a master relay engage the other relays & ecu to prevent back feeding  as as for your questions 1. just need the flex sensor and a tuner 2. I believe the knockblock is optional , from what I understand you can use stock sensors 3. You can have any kind of switch you want , just wire up the switch to a DI and then create an virtual aux with a timer of your wanted time and the DI you want, or use a regular Aux and drive an indicator light . % slip is always calculated , you need to set up an rpmlimit or something to limit the power (a overlay of ignition with slip and DI on/off is what I use) so as if I have 30% slip with di 1 off then ignition overlay is at 0 , if di 1 is on then 30% slip means that timing will be retarded by 5degrees. hope this helps

Also if you haven't done it you need to calibrate your timing Â

A base tune is only good for starting the car , never expect a base tune to idle correctly or anything. You need to get the link tuned , once that's done you can expect factory idle charistics and tunable power

You mean you have big cams overlapping ? or so you just want it to sound like you have a blower installed (oscilating idle) the g4 extreme has cyclic idle in it which gives you this..