Fredrik Pettersson

Just dont do an injector test with an active fuel system ! (I know this is ignition test but an extra warning doesn't hurt)

bmw m52 trigger / vanos settings work fine. angles you need to check with a timing light. as for dbw i dont know as I'm using a m52 throttle body.

I had alot of problems adjusting for cold start >0c , then I thought of instead of adding fuel why not decrease air. dropped the idle speed base position abit and it starts happily everytime nowÂ

if the tuner (or you) active the cll(closed loop lambda) then you wont have to worry about anything

It tells us that the wastegate is not at fault. what you should do is look at the wastegate table while running the car , if it stays in one cell 100% or 0% depending on your plumbing) then one of the axises are to blame. if it moves between cells fine I don't know really as you've tried different controllers,have a table,plumbing ok,and working wiring im on my phone so I cant look at your pcl file , but having an axis as an volt sounds really weird , generally I would have map vs rpm.

Jono please get your car to a tuner. if you want to build a map from scratch do it with a tuner, the step from not being able to set your error voltages to building a map is astronical. the engine fan being on is a result of the aux used being switched to ground.

http://www.linkecu.com/forums/G4Forum/601464348?b_start=0#468517266

If you arent using the %slip then i think you could use it. there was a post about clutch slip not long ago , ill ser if i can find it

David , which system would you consider 10 or 20 times radier to 'program' (is this tuning you mean or wiring or just configuring ?)

Just wire a single resistor to each injector , a 10ohm should be fine. im more worried about your voltage level..

good ECU choice when you have it wired in make sure to relay every power going in , and have a master relay engage the other relays & ecu to prevent back feeding  as as for your questions 1. just need the flex sensor and a tuner 2. I believe the knockblock is optional , from what I understand you can use stock sensors 3. You can have any kind of switch you want , just wire up the switch to a DI and then create an virtual aux with a timer of your wanted time and the DI you want, or use a regular Aux and drive an indicator light . % slip is always calculated , you need to set up an rpmlimit or something to limit the power (a overlay of ignition with slip and DI on/off is what I use) so as if I have 30% slip with di 1 off then ignition overlay is at 0 , if di 1 is on then 30% slip means that timing will be retarded by 5degrees. hope this helps

Also if you haven't done it you need to calibrate your timing Â

A base tune is only good for starting the car , never expect a base tune to idle correctly or anything. You need to get the link tuned , once that's done you can expect factory idle charistics and tunable power

You mean you have big cams overlapping ? or so you just want it to sound like you have a blower installed (oscilating idle) the g4 extreme has cyclic idle in it which gives you this..

Hi Anders I have found that atleast on the m54 the trigger wheel from a different size bore does not have thesame tdc markings i had to make my own markings on the pulley and check that the engine was in tdc(there are serveral easy ways to check, a ruler through the spark plug,pressure gauge to the sparkplug, flywheel tdc pin,camshaft tdc etc..)

So i've had time to dig into this abit ; The tacho as said wont go below 1000rpm. At 1000rpm i get 8.3 expected 50%DC pulses Playing around with traction Control i was trying to get a LED to flash slowly but i read that you cant go below 10Hz on the Aux outputs. As 1000rpm is about 10hz i now know why i cant get the rpm down on the tacho. I Believe i need an external signa converter to make this work as the limit surely is hardware , right ? Â Cheers // Fredrik Â

No problem  just a small edit ; I don't know if i would wire the pump directly through the aux , better to have the aux activate a relay that grounds the pump

Setting up the aux will be easy ; just use a gp output , set switch off timer to 3s and use 'cond. 1 or 2 AND 3' set cond 1 to your di for the manual switch set cond 2 to your di for the auto switch set cond 3 to IAT temp> value and set the value you want. If you want more than just IAT then set cond 3 to virtual aux and configure the virtual aux with the conditions you want (say maby 80% throttle , speed above 50kph and IAT above 70) if you would wire the aux through a double pole relay(30 would go to the pump,87 to the aux,87a to nothing,85 to switched 12v and 86Â through your level switch) then you shouldn't have the pump run dry hope it helps

Do you have the pullup resistor on ? cheers // FredrikÂ

Did you download the corect pclink ? Not pclink +

Thanks for sharing have you tried bumping the solenoids ? Stock ecu runs them at 200hz

A way the link staff could do this is to reset the prime if the engine rpm reaches 0 for 1sec.

Hey zek , could you by any chance share your accel enrichment settings with me ? I'm having some trouble setting mine up perfectly

Yeah My error was not usling the m52 trigger preset, without it the vvti setting would not work. i have almost thesame problem as you , at 3000rpm the exhaust cam is dead on its target but at idle it oscillates (I can see the solenoid % keep rising but cam stays same position until a it moves way too much and it goes the opposite direction) the inlet solenoid I have at 0% but it makes a buzzing noise so I'm currently not using it until I get the exhaust set up

Just because the sensor has it's own power supply doesn't mean that it doesn't require a pullup resistor. Activate it and you should see frequency as for anti phase wg control i doubt it's doable, maby settings up a gp output table with wg duty cycle as the axis(im on My phone so i din teven know if wg dc is an avaliable axis) hope it helps