Remy van den Hoek
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Posts posted by Remy van den Hoek
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You want the master to sit where the table numbers are in the mid range of the adjustment so around the 100 mark at mid power.
Get the main tune done fully and then go in and adjust crank enrichment.
Hi there, I did some tests last week and starting seems to be a little better now.
I started by setting the table to the numbers you suggested. To get the correct AFR I had to set master fuel to 130. The car would barely start when cold, but once hot I wasn't able to get it running again.
My master fuel is now at 150, crank enrichment is 30 and hot restart is at 10. With these settings it will start after 3 or 4 times cranking the engine for a few seconds (hot and cold).
The first fuel row goes from 30 till 45 and gives me around 14.5 AFR, to help AFR in idle I set the first ignition cells to around 16. The engine revs perfect and drives smooth around the parking (not allowed on road yet).
The MAP sensor (GM 3 bar) reads 103 kpa when the engine is off and 65 kpa in idle. I set clamp to 65.
I find it strange that I have to set the master this high just to get is started, and I still have the feeling that I`m missing something.
The engine is a 1.8L 8V 4cyl, running a T28 turbo, 500cc genesis injectors @ 3.5 bar fuel pressure (stock pump feeds a sump with a bosch 044). Running group injection and a distributor and single for spark.
Thanks for still supporting such a old product, many companies could take a example from that!
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Ok, thanks Simon. Going to try that!
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Looks like a very fun car to drive. Love the ITB setup!
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Ok thanks, I'll do that.
Is it beneficial to set the master fuel as low as possible or should I just leave it at 110 and lower the table from there?
To make sure adjustments can be made, I assume crank enrichment needs to be set somewhere in the middle, then set master fuel to a value on which the engine starts, followed by lowering the table to get a acceptable AFR. Is this a good approach?
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This morning I tried setting Crank enrichment to the smallest number possible (30) which should give the most fuel while cranking. Still wouldn't start.
After this I tried setting the master fuel back to 115. Now she started but ran way to rich. Only after setting it back to 65 the engine started to ran normal again.
Should I set the master at about 80 and just lower the entire table a lot?
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Hi, my name is Remy and I`m from The Netherlands.
Over the last 11 years I've been building my VW Corrado. The goal was to build a trackday orientated car with a close to stock exterior.
The Corrado has a stock 1.8L G60 (PG engine) bottom, with a ported VW Jetta X-flow cylinder head.
Here are the specs:
Engine:
ARP Undercut Head Studs (204-4701)
Garrett T28 turbo
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm 0.60 A/R BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing. (15PSI)
Kinugawa wastegate
Autotech 270 Hydro Lifter Cam
Autotech HD valve spring set
Autotech Lightweight Intermediate Shaft Pulley
Autotech Adj Alloy Timing Gear
Autotech Lightweight Hydraulic Lifter
BBM fuel rail
Holley fuel pressure regulator
Genesis II 500cc "FOGGER" injectors
New oem in-tank fuel pump
Submerged 044 surge tank
Bosch 044 fuel pump
Bar-Tek high flow check valve (6AN)
AN6 PTFE nylon braided fuel lines with Torques.uk fittings
ABF alternator + bracket
Stainless engine block closure plate (wp-spezialteile)
Silicone boost and coolant hoses
Mikalor t-bolt hose clamps
Custom intake (nubworks cnc flanges)
VR6 throttle body
New master and slave clutch cylinder
Braided AN3 clutch hose
Custom stainless 3" downpipe
Forge dumpvalve
Golf G60 intercooler
Golf G60 radiator
Double slim radiator fans
Green performance air filter
Epytec billet front engine mount
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels:
Porsche 996 GT2 wheels
Federal 595 RS 215-45-17 front
Dunlop SP sport maxx 225-45-17 rear
Porsche 996 F+R brakes
Drilled and slotted cupra 305mm brake discs, front (MTEC)
Drilled and slotted 280mm front VR6 discs, rear (MTEC)
Epytec adapters (280mm rear disc / Porsche conversion)
Narrowed rear beam to fit the adapters
25mm master brake cylinder
Non abs conversion
Bigger brake booster with cnc machined check valve (AN fitting)
Haggard Fab brake fluid reservoir
Stainless braided brake lines (Epytec)
Wilwood adjustable brake proportioning valve
Hydraulic handbrake conversion kit (motorsport-tools)
Wilwood 0.625 hydraulic handbrake mastercylinder
Até 200 super blue brake fluid
FK coilovers, height and damping adjustable
Looped power steering rack
Full polyurethane bushings kit front and rear (Claus von Essen)
Uprated front top mounts (Claus von Essen)
Electronics:
Link+ v10 ecu
Custom engine loom with all braided sleeving
Zeitronix ZT-2 wide-band lambda (data logger)
MAC 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA boost control solenoid
Auberins 5bar map sensor (1/8 NPT) (data loging)
Auberins 5bar fuel pressure sensor (1/8 NPT) (data loging)
Zeitronix multi LCD Display
GM 3bar map sensor
Odyssey PC680 Racing battery
Exterior:
EmpireGFX candy red taillight overlays
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Hi, I'm having a strange problem with my link g1 v10 ecu.
To get the car running, I perform a reload, the car starts but runs terrible (way to rich).
First step, is that I reduce the master fuel setting from 130 to 65, when I go lower the engine starts to stutter when I rev it. wide band AFR is now around 10.
Then I lower the values in the first row to around 65 till 75, AFR is now around 12/13.
I can now drive the car around the parking lot and its running smooth and idles fine, so I save the settings to my computer and to the ECU.
Now the problem, It won`t start again (cold or hot) until I perform the exact same steps from above (perform a reload etc.), while all the adjusted settings I made earlier are there.
The car is a VW Corrado 1.8L 8V 4cyl, t28 turbo, 500cc genesis injectors.
Running group injection and a distributor for spark.
Any ideas/suggestions in what I`m doing wrong?
Many thanks Remy.
LINK MEMORY DATA
Configuration
Row Steps = TPS+MAP Priority = Cyl
AirCon Request = Low-High Aspiration = Turbo
Dwell Mode = 4ms Engine Configuration = General
Inj Mode = Group MAP Sensor = External
Number of Cylinders = 4cyls Temp Sensor = NTC
Limits
Advance Limit = 33° MAP Limit = 230kPa
MAP Limit = Off RPM limit = 6800rpm
Lambda
Shift RPM = 5000rpm Closed loop Lambda = Off
Lambda Targets Table
Target Area
Idle Cruise Rows 4 & 5 Rows 6 & 7 Rows 8 & 9 Rows 10
84 78 82 83 85 87
Utilities
Rpm Lockout = 500rpm Overrun Vacuum = 24kPa
TPS High = 100 Temperature Switch = 94°C
Utilities - Drive A
Drive A Trigger = RPM Drive A Sense = OFF->ON
Utilities - Drive B
Drive A Sw Point = 4000rpm Drive B Trigger = RPM
Drive B Sense = OFF->ON Drive B Sw Point = 4000rpm
Utilities - Launch Control
Launch Ctrl = Off Launch RPM = 3000rpm
Utilities - Water Spray
Water Spray Trigger = %FF Spray Sw Point = 70.2%FF
Idle Speed Control
Water Spray %DC = 50% AirC Step = 10
Fan Step = 5 ISC Type = Solenoid
Idle Cold = 70% Idle Hot = 60%
Idle RPM = 900rpm Stepper Motor Direction = Normal
Fuel
Master = 65 Fuel Cut = Off
Fuel - Auxiliary
Injector Timing = -1 Clamp = 75kPa
AirC Enrich = 0 Cold Start = 36
Crank Decay = 20 Crank Enrich = 60
Hot Restart = 0 Inlet Air = 10
Prime Temp. = 20.0°C Volts Correction = 15
Fuel - Accel
Accel Decay = 8 Enrichment Mode = MAP
WakeUp Pulse = 4 WakeUp Width = 210
Ignition
Ignition Type = Distributor Ignition Coils = Single Coils
Knock Control
Static Ignition = 6 Knock Base Target = 60
Knock Control = On Knock RPM Start = 2000
Boost Control
Knock RPM corr. = 20 Boost Hold = 80%
Boost Table
Engine Speed (rpm)
250 750 1250 1750 2250 2750 3250 3750 4250 4750 5250 5750 6250 6750 7250 7750 8250 8750 9250 9750
MAP (kPa)
200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 210 210 210 210 210 210 210 210 210 210
TPS Proportional = Off Wastegate Base = 35
Wastegate RPM = 3200 Wastegate Sens. = 6
Boost Control - Antilag
Antilag = Off Antilag Mode = Mode 1
Ign Retard = 20°
Fuel Table
Fuel Table
Engine Speed (rpm)
250 750 1250 1750 2250 2750 3250 3750 4250 4750 5250 5750 6250 6750 7250 7750 8250 8750 9250 9750
TPS/MAP
15 65 65 65 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78
45 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105
75 108 108 108 108 108 108 108 108 108 108 108 108 108 108 108 108 108 108 108 108
105 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128 128
135 132 132 132 132 132 132 132 132 132 132 132 132 132 132 132 132 132 132 132 132
165 136 136 136 136 136 136 136 136 136 136 136 136 136 136 136 136 136 136 136 136
195 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 140
225 144 144 144 144 144 144 144 144 144 144 144 144 144 144 144 144 144 144 144 144
255 148 148 148 148 148 148 148 148 148 148 148 148 148 148 148 148 148 148 148 148
285 152 152 152 152 152 152 152 152 152 152 152 152 152 152 152 152 152 152 152 152
Ignition Table
Ignition Table
Engine Speed (rpm)
250 750 1250 1750 2250 2750 3250 3750 4250 4750 5250 5750 6250 6750 7250 7750 8250 8750 9250 9750
TPS/MAP
15 6 11 16 21 26 31 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33
45 6 11 16 21 26 31 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32
75 6 11 16 21 26 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31
105 6 11 16 21 22 24 26 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28
135 6 11 16 21 22 24 26 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28
165 6 11 16 18 18 18 20 21 28 28 21 22 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23
195 6 11 16 18 18 18 19 20 20 20 20 21 22 22 22 22 22 22 22 22
225 6 11 16 18 18 18 18 18 19 19 19 20 21 21 21 21 21 21 21 21
255 6 11 16 18 18 18 18 18 19 19 19 20 21 21 21 21 21 21 21 21
285 6 11 16 18 18 18 18 18 19 19 19 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 -
Thanks for the super fast response. When it comes to customer support, you guys truly are an example.
Greets Remy
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Hi, I finally finished my install. When turning my distributor my fuel pump comes on and I hear the injectors clicking but no spark. Can someone please share a pin out for the old black link igniter? Is the pin out just as every other 7-pin Bosch style igniter?
greets Remy
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Hello, i have a VW corrado with a wire-in Linkplus ems. I wan`t to replace the standard lambda sensor to a wide-band version. Is this possible without modifications to the ecu? Question 2: I have the ecu connected to a laptop, which is connected to a in-dash touchscreen. In the manual it says yould should not leave the ecu connected, because the cable can work as a antenna and interfer with the ecu. I like to have the meter display on while driving. What can i do, so that the cable doesn`t influence with the ecu.
Link G1 to G4+ atom
in G4+
Posted
Hi, due to the limitations of my old G1 ecu I'm in the market for a newer product.
If I choose the G4+ Atom, would it be possible to use the custom loom from my G1 by simply taking the pins out of the G1 connector and into the G4 connector? Another option would be the 40mm loom and solder everything.
For the record I only want a ecu with some more flexibilty (mostly fuel wise) all sensors, dizzy with hall sensor etc. will remain.
Thanks Remy