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Ryan Simmons

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  1. Hi, basically it seems that the longer i leave the car sit , the worse the problem is. If i dont start the car for two weeks, then i am pretty certain it will not start without some serious messing about! Every day leading up to about two weeks -when its at its worse, it progressively gets harder and harder to start. Anyway. basically, i flick on the ignition and allow the pump to prime. 40psi of fuel pressure is indicated in the rail on a dead head setup. Once prime has finished, i crank the engine. It will turn over and turn over without even a cough sometimes. once i give up turning over it usually backfires quite heavily. Looking at the plugs and they are all saturated with fuel. I then clean up the plugs, burn out the fuel from the bores and try cranking again. This time it will fire up ( but only whilst blipping the throttle) and run on 2~3 cylinders. Pull the plugs again to find completely black charcoal plugs to the point where they will not spark properly hence the poor running. Clean up the plugs and bores for a second time, re-install (note engine now has some heat) , turn the key and it fires up perfectly, all cylinders firing and idles fine! If the car has only been sitting for a day or two, it will generally cough into life after about 8~10 rotations of cranking, however when it does fire the amount of fuel fumes chucked out of the exhaust is crazy it makes my clothes reak and the garage goes black with fuel smoke! Once it has fired, if i blip the throttle it tends to want to bog down more than rev up. only slow progressive pressing on the throttle will allow it to rev up smoothly. also whilst its still cold, its very jerky to drive. Once the car has reached full running temp, it is smooth as silk and drives like a dream!and further inspection of plugs after a run show they are clean and of correct colour! It would seem its over fuelling whilst cranking perhaps flooding the engine and causing the plugs not to fire.. But then again it could be the other way -not enough fuel on the pre-crank prime causing a non fire and upon the second cycle -more fuel is added making the mix very very rich?! i really don't know which way around it is! I believe AFR once i got it started and running on all cyls was around 15~16. and iirc when i blip the throttle it went down to 10. ill have to confirm this tho. One other thing i find is that when it does finally fire up and idle smoothly, after about 10 seconds it just dies. a quick restart gets it running fine again. this also happens if i start it 24 hours after its last drive, it generally coughs once or twice, springs in to life then dies 10 seconds later unless i keep it revving above 1800 rpm. Heres some engine specs.. toyota 3s-gte rev3 4-pot 16v 2.14 L stroker 1200cc bosch top feed injectors Dead head fuel rail setup, aeroquip lines, AN1000 regulator set to base 40psi Bosch 044 external pump, custom tank pickup. HTAGt3582r turbo setup. 570bhp( flywheel)/480 lbft. Engine is mechanically sound. I have attached the PCL file, please could you have a look and ammend anything you feel that may rectify the issue. Perhaps two maps that i could try one with a richer cold start and one leaner? I hope you can find the answer to this as its been an issue for a long time now and after 7 years building the car, im starting to really hate it! Thanks Ryan may2013-pre-cold-start-alterations.pcl
  2. I need to extend the wiring to the ecu by about 2 meters so i can re-locate the unit inside the cabin, I dont really have time or patience to test the impedance of every single wire connect to the ECU so i would just like to order a couple of reels of wire of one size thats man enough to handle more Amps than the Ecu is likely to see. What gauge wire would be ideal to use? or better still, what is the max current (A) the ecu is likely to see? If i was to order a reel with a max current handling of 8.5A would this be enough? Thanks for the help!
  3. Just looking at the G4 firmware update for the LinkPlus G3 and would like to know some more information on it. Could someone explain to me the benefits of doing the upgrade, I am quite novice when it comes to ECU tuning as this is mainly left to my mapper. He tells me that the update is not worth bothering with however i do wonder if he has actually looked into the differences / benefits of doing it! My engine is a 2.2 3-sgte running COP's, 1200 cc inj's, hta3582r and fixed cam timing (no vvt etc), so pretty basic when compared to newer engines. What advantages will i gain from updating? Also, i have read about people having difficulty transferring there current Ecu map and settings back onto the Ecu once its been updated? Some having to punch each and every cell figure in individually, having to alter axis and scales and running into problems on the way. Is this still the case? or is there now an easier way of doing this? And finally, Is this update free to us G3 owners? as it states on the original advert page for the Linkplus - 'As new features are developed they are made available completely FREE. These updates can be downloaded, installed and new features used immediately.' http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-management/Wire-In/linkplusg3folder/linkplusg3 Thanks for the help Ryan
  4. I have just installed a P&P AEM UEGO kit and it has a 0-5v Auxiliary output wire for connecting to compatible engine management systems. I am pretty sure that the linkPlus G3 is compatible but i would just like someone to confirm this and explain how to wire it in? Im guessing ill use an Analogue channel input 'AN Volt wb1' and set voltage point 'A' to '0' and 'B' to '5' and i guess the AFR points will be the range limits of the sensor? Before i do this tho, i would like to know what advantage it will give to have the wideband wired in to the ECU? i dont know too much about mapping as i leave this to my tuner, so would having the wideband wired in be of an advantage to him? Also can it be used as a safety device if the ecu detects abnormal AFR's during certain conditions? ie sudden lean whilst in boost? Thanks for the help Ryan
  5. Hi I have a set of fans that i require to run constantly whilst the engine is running but only switch on whena couple of conditions are met. basically i ask for 'more than' 1500 rpm and 'more than' 30' ECT. I wired the fan relay trigger into AUX4 amd configured as a GP output and set up the required conditions without issue. Now, heres the problem. The fans remain off when less than 1500rpm, juat as they should and come on when the revs go over, but when i turn the engine off, the AUX defaults to 'on' causing the fans to switch on! so basically, when the ignition is turned off, the fans turn back on!! How do i stop this? Also, the voltage drop from the fans is quie a lot causing the idle revs to bog down quite bad, can i add an Idle up table thats assigned to the AUX4 output to allow me raise the RPM slightly at the moment the fans come on? Thanks for the help! Ryan.
  6. Hi Dave. Good news! Turns out the problem was in fact a 0.5mm restrictor in the T-piece! i cannot believe that something so simple caused so many issues! I replaced it with a normal 4mm ID Tee and now it revs perfectly. It is over-fuelling by loads now tho particularly on cold start but im guessing that this might be due to my tuner adding loads of throttle enrichment in attempt to correct the problem? Im not clued up in tuning so this is just an assumption. He did tell me when i left that i have to nurse the car home as the mapping is completely wrong, purely for the fact after coming off the rollers we re-pinned the injectors and COPs. Hopefully a simple tune up on the rollers now is all thats needed to get the car running as it should be! The only thing i still have not got my head around is why the dizzy trigger needs 358 degrees of offset added to get the crank timing mark in the correct place? I wonder if the dizzy to cam linkage is upside down ? however im pretty sure the connector is offset to avoid this? The only other way to get the trigger offset back zero is to wire the COPs in back to front again!?
  7. Hi David, The 1200cc injectors are top feeds by bosch, low impedance and i have kept the stock resistor packs in place. The car was tuned on these injectors last year and ran fine! They was a little meaty for the job as they only reached a maximum of 63% duty with the old turbo at its maximum efficiency however I chose that size for future upgrading. We double checked the resistance with a multimeter and yes they are Low-impedance. Base FP was set to 30psi. Map sensor is the 7bar (iirc?) Gold Link unit, which has always been positioned higher than the plenum with the vacuum exiting from the bottom so as not to trap any dirt or moisture in the sensor. ill double check tho that there is nothing blocking it. I have a hunch that one of the T-pieces may be a restrictive type, ill double check. When i upgraded to Coil-on-plugs i accidentally wired them up in the wrong order, 1 in 4 and 3 in 2, so the engine was firing from the wrong end first however, strangely enough it ran! The strobe light showed the crank timing mark was correct and the trigger offset was 0 ! This is why i did not realise i had wired them up in the wrong order. My tuner realised this tho at the dyno and we re-pinned the COPs to the correct order; Afther doing this tho, what really baffled us is the Ignition trigger sensor then required 360 deg of offset added to it to get the timing strobe flashing back at the correct crank timing point?! We coupled the strobe sensor correctly -to the coil of CYL 1 (cam end) and with Zero trigger offset set like before when the COPs were the wrong way around, the timing mark was 180deg out on the crank. I am thinking that i may have also installed the cam belt with the crank 360' out putting no1 on its exhaust stroke whilst the cams are at 0' , with 0 offset also, this would cause the plug to fire on the exhaust stroke in every cyl and the engine would not run, but where i had also wired the Coil-on-plugs in the reverse order, it corrected the phase issue as the engine was firing from no 4 first which should be on its compression stroke (if no1 is on its exhaust).. So the engine would be running from the wrong end first?? So when we corrected the COP wiring, due to the crank being 360 out, this returned no1 to spark on the exhaust stroke of cyl #1 and by adding the 360' offset delay, this put the spark to the correct stroke. I shall check my TDC of piston 1 at Zero degrees and check if its on the exhaust stroke or compression. If it is the compression stroke then i just have to rotate the crank 360' and re-fit the cam belt, then in theory, Re-set the trigger offset from 360' back to 0'  ....?  Does this sound right? and if it is the case, could it cause the throttle up lean issue? Sorry if that paragraph is quite confusing, My projects dont allow 'Simple' lol.  Ryan
  8. Ok, i shall post to the email address in about half an hour. I will also include a log of what happens when i blip the throttle too, i dont know if the information you need is on there but ill include it anyway. Would it be an idea to record the screen output to show you what the cursor is doing on the fuel table whilst blipping the throttle? Thanks Ryan
  9. Ok, i had my 3sgte mr2 in for tuning today with Ryan.G from 2bar tuning. We ran into some issues to which we cannot find a solution! Quick spec list of the engine.. Gen3 3sgte engine, 2.139 stroker, 1200cc top feed bosh low imp inj's, Simple external fuel system w/bosch 044 and deadhead rail. HTA3582r turbo, Tial 44mm MV-R, 1zz COPs using stock Dizzy sensor as signal pickup. Almost stock head with mild polishing work and upgraded valve springs. LinkPlus G3 ecu. The Problem... Basically, giving the throttle a WOT blip from idle obviously should cause an almost instant increase in engine revs. However mine is not quite doing this. Upon flooring the throttle the ECU does not seem to enrich the mixture quick enough to prevent it going lean and therefore causes the revs to bog down a few rpms before picking back up again. Going on and off the throttle at any revs seems to give the same issue and if you was to 'pump' the throttle pedal a couple of times the issue would amplify due to it not having recovered from the first 'pump'. This was never an issue the last time it was mapped and i am using the same fuel system, MAP sensor, TB and TPS. Apart from now having a larger turbo and different bolt on parts, the only thing different from my last mapping session is the addition of some 1zz cops! My tuner played with all the settings he could think of, we played with fuel pressure, TPS sensitivity, throttle enrichment etc but no joy. We also tested the impedance of the injectors to check they are low and indeed they are. Not sure if this is related but I did make a slight mistake with the wiring of the 1zz cops, i wired them in back to front (#4 in #1 and #3 in #2) and the same with the injectors, fixing this minor issue did not resolve the enrichment issue and the car ran exactly the same as before; However after doing this, for some reason the base ignition timing then became out by 360 deg and we had to set the cam trigger offset to -360' to get the crank timing mark flashing back at 10' on the cam cover. Myself and my tuner cannot think why this is happening as everything is working correctly sensor and mechanical wise, It almost seems like the ecu is just responding too slowly to the throttle position change and not adding the fuel soon enough to compensate!  Your help would be greatly appreciated! This project is near complete now and this is the only issue in the way of going for our 500whp goal!  thanks Ryan
  10. Yes my tuner suggested that method too, i believe the tach wire from the stock igniter is +5v -i assume this is 'Low' level? 12v being high?
  11. I have upgraded the single coil / distributor system on my 3s-gte engine to a set of 4 1zz-fe Coil on plugs. The engine runs on them and the PClink software will show the engine RPM no problem, however the dash Rev-counter does nothing! I guess the old RPM signal came from the single igniter. What would i need to do to get the Rev counter functioning again? Many thanks Ryan
  12. I have an intercooler fan (well, two running together) to which i would like to be switched on by the ecu. I currently have a relay running to a ign live; the problem with this is that the fans will run before and whilst cranking, suverely reducing cranking power! Could i use the LinkPlus to control the relay? I would like the fans to either come on when the revs are above say 900 rpm (so not while cranking) Or set them to come on at a certain Coolant or IAT temp? How would i go about doing this? Btw i would say my linkplus knowledge level is intermediate.  Many thanks Ryan
  13. I have had my car off the road through the winter whilst i perform some major engine upgrades etc, i removed the ecu and kept it stored in doors through all this time to keep it from getting damp. Today i re-installed the ecu and connected the USB to the laptop but the pclink software could not detect the ecu! I checked the com port settings etc, the ecu shows up in the device manager, something like LinkECU (COM4) under coms tab, and i have the ignition set 'On' and immobilizer disarmed -everything set how its supposed to be. I did do some wiring alterations to the car whilst it was off the road and i took extreme care to making sure any alterations to the loom was returned to its correct state and no crossed wires.. However when i connect the 2nd ecu plug of the 3, my fuel pump relay starts buzzing like mad?! Any ideas what is wrong with it?! Is there any way i can check that i have not somehow fried my ecu? Thnaks Ryan
  14. As i have built my car/engine myself over the past few years, i am very knowledgeable with the mechanical side of things, however, I would like to start learning how to tweak my linkplus G3 myself so i don't have to rely on a tuners expertise for small adjustments and changes etc all the time. I am slowly learning the basics of how it all works but as there is not much info / tutorials on the net with relation to ECU programming, i am having to resort to watching the experts and asking lots of annoying questions!! Anyhow, I have decided i would like to remove my ISCV and set the idle by using a combination of the throttle plate grub screw and ignition timing. I am thinking this might be a good little task for me to try myself and im sure upon succeeding, i will have a much better knowledge on how this area of tuning works. What i would like to know is the following :- Is this a complicated procedure? I understand that i disconnect the ICV, then adjust the TB idle screw so it sits at about 1,500 rpm and then retard the ignition timing to reduce the rpms to the desired amount. now its the 'adjusting of the ignition timing' that i am stuck at. Im not sure what i am supposed to do at this point? i assume i alter the values in the ignition table, but i don't want to upset the rest of the tuning and risk damage to the map or worse, the engine. But anyway, everyone has to start somewhere so i hope someone could give me some help I have included a picture of my ignition setup window & ignition table, if anyone would like to draw on it to illustrate what i need to do. Many Thanks Ryan
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