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Rod Smart

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  1. You will find, that when tuning, the box will appear over the current MAP/RPM location, it will either be over a certain cell, or crossing multiple cells. when crossing multiple cells, it will take the average of the cells its crossing, so you don't get the fuel value jump as it goes cell to cell
  2. Hi, I have a G4 Extreme on a Toyota 4A-GE engine (16-valve) and I'm trying to get the Tacho output to work happy with a Ecliptech SHIFT-i Shift light www.ecliptech.com.au
  3. extra air leaks can be tricky to find, grab a bit of air line and use as a stethoscope to hunt *everywhere* around all fittings and joints to try and track down extra air suction holes. *-*-*-* BE CAREFUL you DON'T put tube in your ear, if you find a suction point, and its in your ear, you could *DAMAGE* your hearing !!!! If nothing is found, try removing the throttle body and look through it with a bright light on the other side, to check for sealing around the butterfly, or pull down the 'idle' screw to check that its actually closing down far enough, and not jamming up on some 'gunk' as last resort (with engine stopped) remove a air line from the intake tract (after throttle butterfly) and attach a air gun to that line to inject some air in to the intake chamber, placing your hand over the throttle body then releasing the air from the gun and see how long it takes to 'deflate'... I wouldn't really recommend this way, but it worked with me and the 2x M6 holes that were left open during a temp sensor modification and maybe your air line routing destinations may not be too happy being pressurised (not an issue for my set-up)
  4. There is a notice that 'Once Firmware has been upgraded, please check all your settings and sensors *before* starting engine' but this is a Rule for anything that you upgrade Ok, start by checking the settings of your sensors again, even if its working, I'd still recheck it, something could have changed in the upgrade, best to verify now than later 'I knew I should have checked that option' Once your inputs are checked, do the same for all your outputs. I upgraded my firmware in my G4-E, and didn't check the settings on the inputs properly, and the trigger settings had changed, took me many hours to go back and do something I should have done 1st, check the trig settings, 1 option was added which totally screwed up my trig inputs, its extremely difficult to fault find something that actually doesn't have a problem, while over looking the obvious
  5. Thanks, I have no issues, the brain wasn't in the right gear for moving forwards I think
  6. Which pin are you calling the 'switch pin' for the relay? a simplistic relay, you have 2 pins for the coil, and 2 pins for the switch (N.O. = Normally Open) On the standard Relay's you have numbered markings (I'm using the Narva 68024) but you could also be using Omrom or Bosch or whatever Going off the Narva top 85/86 = coil (watch that some relay's incorporate a diode across the winding, the Positive of the circuit should go to the side the arrow of the diode is pointing to (Cathode or K or Bar) The switching part of the circuit gets connected to the other side, numbered 30, 87, 87a (if you have 2 of the same number, they are both joined together, this relay has 2x87 terminals) Generally, 30 = +B (or via a fuse to Battery +ve) 87 = Normally Open (N.O.) which is where you wire your radiator +ve up to 87a = Normally Closed (N.C.) So, there are a few options you can do your circuit, depending on how you wish to drive your relay (High or Low side) High side = ECU -> 85, 86 -> GND Low Side = +B (+12) -> 85, 86 -> ECU Load Side +B -> 30, 87 -> Radiator Fan +ve, Radiator -ve -> GND As this circuit is 'series in connection', the components can go in any order, just as long as +B is 1 end and GND is the other, the Relay position and Fan position can be interchanged, as can the Relay numbers 30 & 87 On my ECU, I have Fan = AUX 2 & Fan(HS) = AUX 4 (Fan high Speed) To test if its wired up correctly (without warming up the engine can be done 2 ways 1/. change the switching temperature (ON Temp) to below the current ECT temp (not the preferred way) 2/. change the polarity of the output to the other state, mine is set to low (low Side drive) The polarity allows you to test the output without changing your set point temperature *BUT* please check that the output of the ECU is driving the coil of the relay, not on the contact, I don't think the output would like being driven to a state that it could be sourcing or sinking excessive current
  7. I'm running a Innovate LC-1, and have the AN channel set to Innovate WB sensor. when I posted my last post above, I had been playing with the motor, this time dialling up the fuel map, but 1st I plugged up the 2xM6 holes in the plenum that were allowing heaps of air in past the butterfly, I really don't know why I smelt it so rich, but its happily idling on about 900-1000 RPM The outputs for the LC-1 are set for MAX V (+5V) at Max Oxy (Lean), and MIN V (0V) at Min Oxy (Rich) But, again, you were right, with the engine stopped, the sensor will read Max oxy (or drift towards Max oxygen as the exhaust gas bleeds from the system) Re: Ian, I have a 4-2-1 exhaust setup, right after the 2-1 collector, I have a 2' I.D. flange plate, then a piece of flexible tube, then a 90 degree bend (with the WB 1/2 way around the bend) then into a 2' x 12' hotdog, then about 4' of 2' pipe as it passes out from the rear of the frame, the 4-2 lengths are all the same length as the 20-valve header system, then I think the 2-1 is about the same length, but runs a 180 degree bend then into the 2-1 collector The cams have been custom ground from billet blanks to suit this extractor system, and the porting and polished head work, I cannot wait to get it on to the dyno, I just have to rebuild the dyno and get it going before I can do that
  8. Ok, it seems to be going where I think it should be, I just have to work out the induction system air leak, cannot get it to idle under 3500 RPM, even with a sheet of lexan over the throttle body mouth But thats not a LinkECU problem Thank you for the clarification with the WB O2, I'd prefer to learn this on my engine than on another Just how I understand it, its like this, the output is a measure of O2 in the air, the higher the output value, the more O2 in the air
  9. The Injectors are 13R8 resistance. I thought P&H is better for the Injector than a Saturation control, the peak is to activate the Injector, and over come the spring & fuel pressure, and hold is a lower current to retain the Injector open as it doesn't need as much current. I'll see about getting them cleaned & flowed again, been a while
  10. As this is a rear engined Off Road Buggy, the system is very short, 4-2-1, the O2 is between the 2-1 collector and the Hotdog, then the other end of the hotdog is about 3-4' of 2' Oh, Lean is max end of the scale, oops, fuel table numbers are about 40-42 during idle Master is set to 15ms, 0% trim Under Injector Setup, Type = custom (the dead times are as standard for this selection)
  11. Ok, Injector time now. On my 4A-GE, I have some what look like Nippon Denso Injectors Nippon Denso 250 green 13.8 24.5 50.0 290 Toyota 4AGE The part number is 23250-16110 (the only info I could find is above I'm running Peak & Hold with 2A peak and 0.5A hold I cannot seem to get the fuel delivery down enough to have the Innovate LC-1 give a value less than 22 AFR, I can even smell its running rich. The fuel rail is standard 4A-GE with the pressure relief valve and the control tube going to the intake plenum. Does anyone have any settings for these injectors that may be able to help me?
  12. Rod Smart

    GP output logic Qn.

    Hi, I'm just trying to understand the logic of outputting to one of the GP Outputs. I understand the 'a AND b OR c' and the variations (2 conditions and 3 conditions, but what not really shown is the info that is filled in to the 2nd box on the line.. ECU = G4-Extreme (Silver) ECU Settings -> Auxiliary outputs -> Aux 10 - GP Output Function = GP Output SwOff Timer = 0.3s SW Cond 1 = DI Value1 OFF DI Value1 OFF = 0 <- What is this ? is it the DI port (DI1-10) or is it just DI port 1 or something else? Its not really shown? SW Cond 2 = Aux Value1 ON Aux Value1 ON = 0 <- again, is this the same as for the DI port, as in Aux-O (1-10) If SW Cond 2 = Aux Fuel Value1 ON.... does this mean the Injectors (pulsing, so output is only on for the duty cycle that the Injectrs are firing? Or means (example) Aux 1 - Fuel Pump ?? What I'm trying to do is this, Aux 1 - Fuel Pump (only on during engine running and off 3-5 secs after engine stops (max 6 sec under CAMS) thats fine, I can do that, and its working no problems But, I'd like to add 1 wire from the cabin back to the ECU, as I'm currently running a loom with other functions, and have a spare Relay wired in to a Aux output.. (rear engine so you know front has the engine behind me) So, this 1 wire runs to the ECU, and the ECU will enable a output when this DI is activated (active low, no problems) but I'm confused about the inputs, logic is not an issue While the fuel pump is running, and DI = 0, backup facet pump OFF While the fuel pump is running, and DI = 1, backup facet pump is ON If the Fuel pump is OFF, no matter the condition of DI, Facet is off.. Logically it is below.. Aux 1 'AND' DI9 = Aux 5 Aux 1 'AND' !DI9 = no output (The ! character is generally termed as 'NOT') Now, I can run a wire from the front, connected to GND thru a switch, back to a Relay going to +12V (which will be also in a sealed box, as Off Road buggies do get rather wet ) and switching the backup Facet on and off.
  13. Rod Smart

    Reluctor problem

    Any job openings in outer East Melb you know of? Sorry, most likely, wrong place to ask..
  14. Rod Smart

    Reluctor problem

    Ok, Sync mode now set to 'Cam Pulse 1x' I think I had it set to 'Cam Level' in a earlier version of Pc-Link I don't think there were the '1x' options Trigger reset to 0.5 for cranking, and she fired up Thanks
  15. Rod Smart

    Reluctor problem

    Ok, its stopped raining here in Melbourne long enough to play with the wiring (40mm in the last 24Hrs at this location) I pulled the Dizzy connector apart and reversed the wires to the Reluctor for Trig-2, no change at all (Trig-1 wire disconnected) I reassembled the connector the original orientation (no change again, was hoping it wouldn't change) I went to the 'Arming voltage' Took the value up 0.5V, nothing Took the value down 0.5V, got signal, RPM again, but as I have been cranking this battery for a while now, its dead flat. I just put it on the charger, I'll try once again once its charged Oh, also, there used to be (or I have yet to find it) a pre-setup for the dizzy, where you can lock the timing to 10 Deg. BTDC I'd like to set the Dizzy as close to 10 Degrees before doing the software setup for it (thats after I get a spark lead to hook the timing light up to)
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