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Rod Smart

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Everything posted by Rod Smart

  1. You will find, that when tuning, the box will appear over the current MAP/RPM location, it will either be over a certain cell, or crossing multiple cells. when crossing multiple cells, it will take the average of the cells its crossing, so you don't get the fuel value jump as it goes cell to cell
  2. Hi, I have a G4 Extreme on a Toyota 4A-GE engine (16-valve) and I'm trying to get the Tacho output to work happy with a Ecliptech SHIFT-i Shift light www.ecliptech.com.au
  3. extra air leaks can be tricky to find, grab a bit of air line and use as a stethoscope to hunt *everywhere* around all fittings and joints to try and track down extra air suction holes. *-*-*-* BE CAREFUL you DON'T put tube in your ear, if you find a suction point, and its in your ear, you could *DAMAGE* your hearing !!!! If nothing is found, try removing the throttle body and look through it with a bright light on the other side, to check for sealing around the butterfly, or pull down the 'idle' screw to check that its actually closing down far enough, and not jamming up on some 'gunk' as last resort (with engine stopped) remove a air line from the intake tract (after throttle butterfly) and attach a air gun to that line to inject some air in to the intake chamber, placing your hand over the throttle body then releasing the air from the gun and see how long it takes to 'deflate'... I wouldn't really recommend this way, but it worked with me and the 2x M6 holes that were left open during a temp sensor modification and maybe your air line routing destinations may not be too happy being pressurised (not an issue for my set-up)
  4. There is a notice that 'Once Firmware has been upgraded, please check all your settings and sensors *before* starting engine' but this is a Rule for anything that you upgrade Ok, start by checking the settings of your sensors again, even if its working, I'd still recheck it, something could have changed in the upgrade, best to verify now than later 'I knew I should have checked that option' Once your inputs are checked, do the same for all your outputs. I upgraded my firmware in my G4-E, and didn't check the settings on the inputs properly, and the trigger settings had changed, took me many hours to go back and do something I should have done 1st, check the trig settings, 1 option was added which totally screwed up my trig inputs, its extremely difficult to fault find something that actually doesn't have a problem, while over looking the obvious
  5. Thanks, I have no issues, the brain wasn't in the right gear for moving forwards I think
  6. Which pin are you calling the 'switch pin' for the relay? a simplistic relay, you have 2 pins for the coil, and 2 pins for the switch (N.O. = Normally Open) On the standard Relay's you have numbered markings (I'm using the Narva 68024) but you could also be using Omrom or Bosch or whatever Going off the Narva top 85/86 = coil (watch that some relay's incorporate a diode across the winding, the Positive of the circuit should go to the side the arrow of the diode is pointing to (Cathode or K or Bar) The switching part of the circuit gets connected to the other side, numbered 30, 87, 87a (if you have 2 of the same number, they are both joined together, this relay has 2x87 terminals) Generally, 30 = +B (or via a fuse to Battery +ve) 87 = Normally Open (N.O.) which is where you wire your radiator +ve up to 87a = Normally Closed (N.C.) So, there are a few options you can do your circuit, depending on how you wish to drive your relay (High or Low side) High side = ECU -> 85, 86 -> GND Low Side = +B (+12) -> 85, 86 -> ECU Load Side +B -> 30, 87 -> Radiator Fan +ve, Radiator -ve -> GND As this circuit is 'series in connection', the components can go in any order, just as long as +B is 1 end and GND is the other, the Relay position and Fan position can be interchanged, as can the Relay numbers 30 & 87 On my ECU, I have Fan = AUX 2 & Fan(HS) = AUX 4 (Fan high Speed) To test if its wired up correctly (without warming up the engine can be done 2 ways 1/. change the switching temperature (ON Temp) to below the current ECT temp (not the preferred way) 2/. change the polarity of the output to the other state, mine is set to low (low Side drive) The polarity allows you to test the output without changing your set point temperature *BUT* please check that the output of the ECU is driving the coil of the relay, not on the contact, I don't think the output would like being driven to a state that it could be sourcing or sinking excessive current
  7. I'm running a Innovate LC-1, and have the AN channel set to Innovate WB sensor. when I posted my last post above, I had been playing with the motor, this time dialling up the fuel map, but 1st I plugged up the 2xM6 holes in the plenum that were allowing heaps of air in past the butterfly, I really don't know why I smelt it so rich, but its happily idling on about 900-1000 RPM The outputs for the LC-1 are set for MAX V (+5V) at Max Oxy (Lean), and MIN V (0V) at Min Oxy (Rich) But, again, you were right, with the engine stopped, the sensor will read Max oxy (or drift towards Max oxygen as the exhaust gas bleeds from the system) Re: Ian, I have a 4-2-1 exhaust setup, right after the 2-1 collector, I have a 2' I.D. flange plate, then a piece of flexible tube, then a 90 degree bend (with the WB 1/2 way around the bend) then into a 2' x 12' hotdog, then about 4' of 2' pipe as it passes out from the rear of the frame, the 4-2 lengths are all the same length as the 20-valve header system, then I think the 2-1 is about the same length, but runs a 180 degree bend then into the 2-1 collector The cams have been custom ground from billet blanks to suit this extractor system, and the porting and polished head work, I cannot wait to get it on to the dyno, I just have to rebuild the dyno and get it going before I can do that
  8. Ok, it seems to be going where I think it should be, I just have to work out the induction system air leak, cannot get it to idle under 3500 RPM, even with a sheet of lexan over the throttle body mouth But thats not a LinkECU problem Thank you for the clarification with the WB O2, I'd prefer to learn this on my engine than on another Just how I understand it, its like this, the output is a measure of O2 in the air, the higher the output value, the more O2 in the air
  9. The Injectors are 13R8 resistance. I thought P&H is better for the Injector than a Saturation control, the peak is to activate the Injector, and over come the spring & fuel pressure, and hold is a lower current to retain the Injector open as it doesn't need as much current. I'll see about getting them cleaned & flowed again, been a while
  10. As this is a rear engined Off Road Buggy, the system is very short, 4-2-1, the O2 is between the 2-1 collector and the Hotdog, then the other end of the hotdog is about 3-4' of 2' Oh, Lean is max end of the scale, oops, fuel table numbers are about 40-42 during idle Master is set to 15ms, 0% trim Under Injector Setup, Type = custom (the dead times are as standard for this selection)
  11. Ok, Injector time now. On my 4A-GE, I have some what look like Nippon Denso Injectors Nippon Denso 250 green 13.8 24.5 50.0 290 Toyota 4AGE The part number is 23250-16110 (the only info I could find is above I'm running Peak & Hold with 2A peak and 0.5A hold I cannot seem to get the fuel delivery down enough to have the Innovate LC-1 give a value less than 22 AFR, I can even smell its running rich. The fuel rail is standard 4A-GE with the pressure relief valve and the control tube going to the intake plenum. Does anyone have any settings for these injectors that may be able to help me?
  12. Hi, I'm just trying to understand the logic of outputting to one of the GP Outputs. I understand the 'a AND b OR c' and the variations (2 conditions and 3 conditions, but what not really shown is the info that is filled in to the 2nd box on the line.. ECU = G4-Extreme (Silver) ECU Settings -> Auxiliary outputs -> Aux 10 - GP Output Function = GP Output SwOff Timer = 0.3s SW Cond 1 = DI Value1 OFF DI Value1 OFF = 0 <- What is this ? is it the DI port (DI1-10) or is it just DI port 1 or something else? Its not really shown? SW Cond 2 = Aux Value1 ON Aux Value1 ON = 0 <- again, is this the same as for the DI port, as in Aux-O (1-10) If SW Cond 2 = Aux Fuel Value1 ON.... does this mean the Injectors (pulsing, so output is only on for the duty cycle that the Injectrs are firing? Or means (example) Aux 1 - Fuel Pump ?? What I'm trying to do is this, Aux 1 - Fuel Pump (only on during engine running and off 3-5 secs after engine stops (max 6 sec under CAMS) thats fine, I can do that, and its working no problems But, I'd like to add 1 wire from the cabin back to the ECU, as I'm currently running a loom with other functions, and have a spare Relay wired in to a Aux output.. (rear engine so you know front has the engine behind me) So, this 1 wire runs to the ECU, and the ECU will enable a output when this DI is activated (active low, no problems) but I'm confused about the inputs, logic is not an issue While the fuel pump is running, and DI = 0, backup facet pump OFF While the fuel pump is running, and DI = 1, backup facet pump is ON If the Fuel pump is OFF, no matter the condition of DI, Facet is off.. Logically it is below.. Aux 1 'AND' DI9 = Aux 5 Aux 1 'AND' !DI9 = no output (The ! character is generally termed as 'NOT') Now, I can run a wire from the front, connected to GND thru a switch, back to a Relay going to +12V (which will be also in a sealed box, as Off Road buggies do get rather wet ) and switching the backup Facet on and off.
  13. Any job openings in outer East Melb you know of? Sorry, most likely, wrong place to ask..
  14. Ok, Sync mode now set to 'Cam Pulse 1x' I think I had it set to 'Cam Level' in a earlier version of Pc-Link I don't think there were the '1x' options Trigger reset to 0.5 for cranking, and she fired up Thanks
  15. Ok, its stopped raining here in Melbourne long enough to play with the wiring (40mm in the last 24Hrs at this location) I pulled the Dizzy connector apart and reversed the wires to the Reluctor for Trig-2, no change at all (Trig-1 wire disconnected) I reassembled the connector the original orientation (no change again, was hoping it wouldn't change) I went to the 'Arming voltage' Took the value up 0.5V, nothing Took the value down 0.5V, got signal, RPM again, but as I have been cranking this battery for a while now, its dead flat. I just put it on the charger, I'll try once again once its charged Oh, also, there used to be (or I have yet to find it) a pre-setup for the dizzy, where you can lock the timing to 10 Deg. BTDC I'd like to set the Dizzy as close to 10 Degrees before doing the software setup for it (thats after I get a spark lead to hook the timing light up to)
  16. This is the engine running last time
  17. There are a few varieties of Dizzy's for the 4AG, some have the top reluctor with 4 trig vanes, or 2 trig vanes, the one I'm using is the one with 1 trig vane The lower trig wheel is 24 tooth, which I have found to be standard for Toyota 4AG's The label on the Dizzy reads 2 lines of numbers, 1 in the top Black section, the 2nd in the lower Silver Section, the numbers are thus below.. Line 1 = 19100-16250 Line 2 = 22910-7010 Line 3 = 4A-GE PCLink Version = (Build Nov 10 2010) ECU running Latest Firmware Attachments: 1/. Rods.pcl - My ECU saved file 2/. Picture of Label on side of Dizzy 3/. Dizzy side of connector 4/. ECU side of connector Note:- on the ECU side of the Dizzy connector, RED & Black are the 2 trig wires (they are correctly wired, as it has been running previously) ECU <-> Dizzy Red -> Green = Reluctor Trig Wire Black -> Red = 24T Reluctor pickup White (red side) -> top white wire (looks Yellow, but its actually white) = Reluctor common The other wire on the dizzy side (Yellow) is the 2nd Reluctor pickup, this is positioned 180 degrees from the sync/index pickup, I have tried wiring to this pickup, but it gave the same result, no signal The 2nd white (black side) wire from the ECU isn't wired, as from the ECU, the Red & Black go into the ECU, and the White & shield go into the green wire terminal beside the trig inputs, the Dizzy has all 3 reluctor 2nd wires tied together between the dizzy and the connector.
  18. I have had this engine running (Toyota 4AG) but have changed the wiring also has been sitting for several months as other thing have been worked on on the racing frame. Now I have a problem with the reluctor on Trig-2 Trig-1 is working fine, and the ECU is giving a green 'YES' but nothing on Trig-2 input. I'm wondering about the 'Trigger 2 Arming Threshold' can adjusting this have any bearing on the sensing of the reluctor? On the dizzy, I have checked that its all clean, and using a metal screw-driver between the inner wheel and the sensor head, the ECU will give a Green 'YES' when I pass the screw driver close to the head position, I'm not 100% sure what the gap spacing should be, but nothing has been adjusted. I have measured the resistance from the ECU to the sensor plug of the GND/White, Red & Black wires and all are running the same resistance, so I don't know whats happening, or how to get some kind of signal from the sensor (as its Trig-2, this is the sync signal)
  19. Do you have 'Spark Edge' set correctly? But more importantly, when testing, do you have the threads of the spark plug (while plugged in to the module) touching earth (same GND point as 'Pin-4' from the module) or the engine block? Check that you do have Pin-4 of the module returning to the Engine Block GND point cct of the device (confirms OP's pinouts) http://www.vems.hu/files/COILS_COPS_etc/vw_cop_06b905115e_sch.gif
  20. Out of Preference, I would go and get the terminal from the car, (taking time and patience) remove the connector from the loom end plug take the 'sample' wire connectors to the company named above, if you in Victoria, I'd recommend Jay-Dee in Bayswater, they will also sell you the crimping tool for the wire terminals. If you cannot get the termianls (which I have had that problem) the following should help... Done right, a soldered piece of wire to wire will not fail, they can last 20 years and still work (all joints inside the ECU are soldered, the terminal pins that you plug you loom into would be either friction fit into the PCB or soldered) There are time you absolutely cannot get the crimp connectors (custom connectors) don't pull the connector apart and solder the wire to the spring terminal, excessive heat can make the terminal loose its 'springyness' and your hard work is not trying to find that intermittent fault. If you have a crimp connector you cannot find, cut the terminals wire long, strip back about 10mm of insulation, if its a nice bright shiny copper colour, or silver (tinned copper wire) then it should solder cleanly, if not, it *will* give you endless problems (dry joints) If joining the wire, get some heat-shrink that is capable to shrink down to smaller than the wire insulation size, but also easy enough to slip over (before assembly) the heat shrink length should be about >=3 times the joint length I usually strip the same amount of wire from both halves, then (with the heat-shrink over 1 of the 2 wires) I will push the 2 ends together, so the individual strands will mesh in amongst the others of the other piece, then twist the whole lot together, then solder, making sure the solder 'flows' easily Wait until its cool *before* slipping the heat-shrink over the joint slipping it over early, you may not get it in position fast enough If you make the wire from the connector to the splice long enough, it gives you the ability of hiding the splice inside some corrugated split tubing or loom. This is how I used to manufacture the custom looms for Bosch Australia for their EMC and thermal testing stations, and the soldered connections would fare better than the DUT (device under test) so, soldered wire connections, if done correctly and cleanly, should last.
  21. Just on that RS232 port, are there any references on the data stream format, CAN is actually different than RS232, CAN is more like I2C (IIC)
  22. For your displays, you would be better suited to possibly take another sensor from the engine, as in 1 sensor for the ECU, the 2nd for your gauges. Then build a circuit to display the bargraph Jaycar http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5424&CATID=25&form=CAT&SUBCATID=347 Altronics http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=K4326 Those bargraphs only read voltage, but voltage is all your reading from the sensor, you'd have to play with the circuit to display the readings your after (shouldn't be too hard with the component count you'd be using on them. Unless your thinking of using AUX 2/9/10 as PWM outputs and using this output as your Analogue voltage output, you'd possibly have to have a formula inside the ECU to linear scale the PWM output to relate your readings to some voltage Personally, I'd prefer the 1st solution above, leave this outside of the ECU, and program a output from the ECU to flash/illuminate a LED if any of the readings get outside a required band, and take your attention to the gauges, the bit conditional logic inside the ECU would cope with this.
  23. There is a verification test you can try, tho there may not be a problem here.. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the ECU, and while the engine is running, and viewing the laptop, put finger on end of vacuum hose, see if your finger sticks there (verifies there is vacuum at ECU end. another thing to try, place a separate hose on the ECU (can be done with engine stopped, but ECU powered on) and suck the other end of that hose and notice the results (best done with new hose, 1/. it should be clear inside & 2/. no taste of oils/dirt on end of tube that you put near mouth
  24. From a electronics side, Link systems would have filtering on the input of the analogue channels to stop HF from entering the system and making it unstable. Each input would have a capacitor on each input pin to bypass this HF, if you connect +5VDC to the input, the input will be taken to a high state (100%), if the input is released to a Hi-Z (high impedance) the input cap will discharge through the internal circuitry, if the input is taken to zero with a ground/0V wire, the ECU will register instantly 0% If you have a TPS installed, you hit full throttle, and its 100% (or max), let go and let it spring back, it will be instantly 0% or min setting. To test that your TPS is working correctly, disconnect the centre pin from the ECU cabling, and put a volt meter Black from 0V (green) terminal, and the meter Red on the disconnected ANV4 terminal on the TPS side, as you move the TPS, you should have a smooth value of voltage from 0V (min) to 5V (max) across the TPS movement, if you have 5V at min and 0V at max, then you have the ends of the TPS swapped, To test the input, (after verifying the TPS is correctly wired and working) reconnect ANV4 to the TPS signal, and look on the LinkECU software, also with a volt meter on that pin, and verify over the range of movement that at 0V (min) on the meter you have 0% on the screen, and 5V on the meter with 100% on the screen, If there are still problems, and your measuring the voltage from the TPS at the TPS location, then check the same values closer to the ECU wiring, or remove the ECU and check the length of wiring form the ECU to the TPS with a ohm meter, you should have <2R (< 2 ohms)
  25. Ok, this is a common pinout, you have 2 shielded (coax) lines running from your ECU, (Trig1 & Trig2) connect Trig 1&2 to the socket, the shield from the coax (pick one of them, not both) goes to the Sensor GND terminal Sensor GND refers to the 'Ground reference' for the sensors, the sensors being the Cam Angle Sensor
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