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Rod Smart

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Posts posted by Rod Smart

  1. Yes, I'm sorry, I do realise the difference between hall and reluctor sensors, its the reluctor (2-wire) type of sensor, I should have typed that... Grrr

    Which cars have the Hall type sensor was the wheel pickup, or should I grab one off the engine block for the crank angle sensor...

    I understand electronics and can design my own circuits no problems, but a hall type sensor, I just need to know what cars I can yank them from. this sensor is going on a Off Road vehicle (playing with some of the ECU functions)

  2. No, the wirelist would be unique to each setup, as in DI1 = Left Front Wheel speed sensor on 1 setup, and another it would be Speed Restrict on another setup..

    If the ECU is programmed with several inputs and outputs, across the same setup, you'd have it the same, but with variants (makes/models) then different Inputs would be defined differently.

    And being paper, not all of us use a paper filing system, and after its verified between the ECU and the setup, then its possibly tossed.

    The other way to do it is to mark up the booklet (or photo copy the pages) or print out the PDF of whichever ECU booklet.

    If you open the PCLink G4 software, I have all the I/O at the bottom, each one has The port name and the definition/destination, that's the list I'd like to print out.

    The reason being, I'm working on the software setup here, and the machine I am wiring up is 1/2 Hr drive from here, I go there to build it, and here to play with the software to learn what I can do with it, and currently, I have wires *everywhere* until I loom it all up.

  3. I'd just like to print out the I/O list, or connection list for the wiring of the ECU I have, but I cannot fand anything simple in the G4 program.

    I found that you can print out the whole ECU data and tables, but that's too much information, I don't really want to take the PC/Lappy into the workshop to verify the wiring (engine is running, just wanting to add some extra I/O to the ECU)

    After working on and programming PLC's, I can extract a I/O list just of what is connected to which Input and Output, the names/labels of those connections, so I can then verify that to how its connected in the real world.

    Or, is this something that should go in the Wishlist :)

  4. Looking at the data sheet, the 372 seems to be the surface mount equivalent to the TO-220 373

    http://www.semiconductors.bosch.de/pdf/BIP372_Product_Info.pdf

    I believe the device will run satisfactorily from the ECU, but I'm sure Link guys can give you better confirmation..

     

    Personally, I'm running a Mitsubishi J131 (Found in Nissans and a few other cars)

    The device I'm using includes a suitable plug that can be easily rewired (or obtain the crimps from Jay-Dee)

  5. Have you gone through the pre-start check list?

    Have you individually activated each injector to verify that its firing, also that its firing on the correct cylinder?

    The same goes for the Ignition,

    When you crank the engine, are you getting RPM on the ECU display page?

    When you turn the ECU on, is the fuel pump priming, is the fuel pump running at all?

    This is what I go thru when I wired my 4A-GE, but also when I wire machinery, basically, you want to do whats called a 'I/O' check, make sure all the inputs are being read by the ECU, also all the outputs are doing what you believe they should be doing :)

  6. Jeremy  Have you looked at some MOSFET drivers?

    Take the PWM output from the ECU through a inverting driver and drive your MOSFET from that device..

    I have used the MC34151 device in the past for driving light regulation on LightForce driving lights (way back before they bought out their regulators)

  7. not knowing exactly what device they are using inside the ECU (don't really want to crack mine open to have a look) I'd say between 1 to 1.5A maximum (they state that these are current limited, but I also don't know if the power out's are unique or shared with internal componentry, not sure what you'd be running to be pulling 1A as its just sensor resistances, the total parallel resistance on the +5V output at 1A is 5 ohms (V=IxR or R= V/I or I=V/R)

    Measure your total parallel resistance from +5 out to GND, this total should be greater than 5 ohms (to maintain currents below 1A)

    if its a 7805, approx 2A max (1-1.5 is safety margin, you don't want to hit current limit, if you do, the 5V rail will become either unstable or drop in voltage)

     

  8. What your asking is possibly better explained here -> http://www.vi-pec.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=402&p=2571&hilit=math+key#p2571

    With the fuel table open and a cell selected you can press the M key and the QuickTrim box will appear. You enter the logged air fuel ratio and then press enter and it will tune that cell. You have to be on line to use it. It is a easy way to tune a powerful engine on a dyno as you can just ramp the engine while data logging, then use the QuickTrim to tune the cells the engine passed through.

    It seems that the 'M' key is a extra step in the tuning process, you 1st run up the engine while logging all the parameters, then using the 'M' key, you take that logged data and 'Modify/tune' each cell that was logged..

    I'm only guessing here (sorry not enough dyno time, almost finished the drive shafts) but from what I have done on the LinkECU, the tuning of the cells is live, tho I'm not running a big engine (Toyota 4AG with quite a bit of home work on it) as the engine runs, it takes the table with the required mixture ratio, compares it to the Wideband input and self adjusts the fuel map cells to suit

  9. You should be able to unless they have some fancy logic inside the ignighter module.

    The ignighters are just what's called a 'Darlington-pair' to sink the coil current, and each ignighter is driven by the ECU (Electronically, the Base goes to the ECU, the Collector goes to the coil, and the Emitter goes to GND

    I'm not sure why you would want to run wasted spark, guessing you have a 6-cylinder, with 6 coil-packs on it (1 coil pack per cylinder) why not the ignighter module drive each coil pack?

    Are the coil packs wasted spark already (which, yes you should be able to do this) personally, I would convert the Wasted Spark to direct-fire coils without wasted spark....

  10. I'm not sure which forum to put this...

    Your CAN wiring, do you twist it or just run the 3 wires in the sleeve without twisting?

    I have previously done some work for Bosch Australia (Clayton) with their Tech department and they said all CAN wiring must be twisted.

  11. The problem with dual dash's would possibly be that as the processor sends out a signal, both dash's reply at the same time causing confusion, this would be caused by a addressing issue, as both dash's would in essence have the same address, any timing mismatch whatsoever and the setup fails.

    A possible software upgrade or new version if Link are interested maybe, that upon powerup, the dash waits a random time or scans the buss for another device with the same address and self-configures, or adds its serial number as a extended address then notifies the main controller of this address.

    Unfortunately, I cannot be accurate here as I don't know the software and the communication routines.

    Running other dash's (as stated above) may get around the addressing issue.

  12. I have Nissan B13 coil pack set-up, and am running twin trigger set-up on a Toyota 4A-GE engine, but I'd like to learn how to setup/tune the ignition maps in the ECU, I know how to do the fuel mapping

  13. Hi

    Maybe someone here can point me in the right direction.

    I'd like to learn how to map a dizzy, I have the PC link software, and I know how to map fuel and switch outputs, but how do I map a dizzy to specific curves or custom curve a dizzy?

  14. There are a few varients with the 4A-GE style dizzies (apart from side/rear (flywheel) mounting of the Dizzy.

    You have the 24 tooth lower (on the ones I have)

    And 1, 2 or 4 teeth on the upper level.

    On my engine, I originally had the 4 tooth variant and ground off 3 of the teeth, that was fine running outside the motor (driven by a electric drill) but inastalling it made it cease to function, I changed it for the 2nd dizzy I have here, this has 24T lower and 1T upper, and this one works fine on the running engine.

  15. Go and check out Oil Temp guages, then get the sender from one of those, I purchased 1, then later found out it was in Degrees F, but it works just as well as a centigrade sensor, mine is 2 wire, and the Link happily reads it.

    If I can source a 2nd cheap enough, I'll install it in the VW transaxle I'm currently running.

  16. Ok, update on this,

    I changed the way I was doing the IAT sensor, I removed the LM335 from the hole I had it in (the same hole used for the cold start injector) and added the Air Temp sensor from a Toyota Corolla 1.8, this sensor was on the air filter box and included a rubber grommet, this grommet is 1mm dia larger than the Injector hole, and the sensor pushes a little tighter into the grommet (will be silicone sealed a bit to verify it seals properly)

     

  17. If you don't mind a bit of engineering, modifying the cam covers a bit and adding a new plate in the valley between the covers, you could add in some coil packs from a Nissan SR20DET, and make up a plate to carry the igniters like the J131's from a nissan (or get a multi igniter pack), you can also utilise the SR20 coil harness.

    I'm using the above on my Off Road Buggy, here is a small video (the TPS isnt connected up, that was a side issue)

  18. The Temp inputs have a pull-up resistor, but unfortunately, they don't accept the 0-5V output from the LM335 temp sensors, so these sensors must be connected to the Analog inputs, this is not a problem, but I'm asking if the Analog inputs have a pull-up resistor included that can be switched in (internally) or would I have to make a interface PCB to mount some resistors on to?

    For me, none of this is really a problem.. just if this ability is already included in the ECU, I won't have to add a piece of strip board in to the case that will contain the ECU.

  19. Hi, Is, there any configuration details concerning interfacing a LM335 Precision Temperature Sensor to a Link Ecu? previously I was running a Haltech F3 ECU on my Toyota 4AGE with a Scorcher Dizzy. Now with a new set of custom cams and a LinkECU I'd like to retain the previous sensor's I was previously using on this engine. As there are no examples that utilise these sensors, can the internals be configured for pullup's on the analog sensor inputs or would I have to run a resistor from the Reg'd 5V output to the Analog input's that I'll be placing these sensors? these sensors give an output of 10mV/K and operate between -40°C to +100°C

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