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Chris MacWhirter

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  1. Chris MacWhirter

    LinkPlus G1 not running LS1 coilpacks

    Hi Simon, since you sent the ECU back looks like everything is falling into place The engine cranks and fires over, looks like all that needs seeing to is a little bit of tinkering with the fuel supply, thanks heaps for the help! - Chris
  2. Chris MacWhirter

    LinkPlus G1 not running LS1 coilpacks

    Oh I should add, as far as I can see (despite ECU showing OK for triggers, and PC Link also happy) I dont seem to be getting an RPM signal on PC-Link - external tacho using Link output appears to be reading correctly too - not sure if this is any help, Cheers
  3. Chris MacWhirter

    LinkPlus G1 not running LS1 coilpacks

    Hi again, its me and my dreaded project again; as per an old thread that probably belongs in the new G1 section, I have a holden 304ci v8 with a set of 8 later model LS1 coilpacks all fitted. Now, I had a problem of it sparking once on key-on, and that was it (Simon explained the ECU wasn't as quick to initialise as the instant-on coilpacks, issue solved) but now I cannot get any spark. After a bit of stuffing around and a lot of help from Ashley I've dumped the custom reluctor sensor arrangement and have gone for a Hall Effect system (crank & cam), and in conjunction with a new sub-board, seems to be getting the right signals to the ECU perfectly Sub-board lights flash correctly, et cetera. I checked the coilpacks on a separate homebrew wireup, they work nicely, but sadly the Link doesnt seem to fire them. I think I'm wrong, but it appears that when it charges the coilpacks then goes low to fire, it seems as if it isnt actually going low. Or alternatively it is staying low and won't go high, either way it seems a bit of a nuisance. I have had the cover off the Link to watch the sub-board lights, it has been adequately protected from any foreign matter, and I havent let the smoke out of anything onboard, so if anyone else or you guys at Link have any suggestions, it would make this idiots day! On a side note I did isolate the Links ignitor channels and attached one to a coil in the proscribed manner, but still no love. I have a cantakerous scope here too, if there is anything I should be measuring, if you want me to. Cheers, sorry to be a pain!
  4. Chris MacWhirter

    Maybe I'm an idiot, but..

    Much ado about nothing as they say,. yup, you can safely avoid this thread from hereon! Cheers
  5. Chris MacWhirter

    Maybe I'm an idiot, but..

    The link still wouldnt work at all with the high tooth wheel setup, despite the sensors behaiving correctly, every other link function working perfectly (as best I could tell with a non running motor), it simply refused to acknowledge even one trigger event, hence I changed I was under the impression that it had been switched to a stock standard G1 with some sort of generic sub board, but not to worry. How much for a correct sub board? If possible it would be good if you could freight it up to me and I'll just pop it in myself if thats OK. Cheers - I sure hope it will do the trick
  6. Chris MacWhirter

    Maybe I'm an idiot, but..

    Hi again, was just on the phone to Simon who did all he could let alone post me a tailored dunces hat I mentioned to him that my hall effect sensor had an output that kept the input low until a tooth swept through where it would instantly bring the output high (output voltage dependant on sensor power input voltage input by the looks of things) and he did mention words to the effect of disabling some pullup resistors on the sub board. Once again I popped the Link case and inspected the subboard, I can see a pile of caps, resistors, an IC and a few transistors, if I send a photo could someone please indicate which resistors to unsolder? I have spotted a couple of suspects but I'm not 100% sure they are pullups so am reluctant to start hacking away at the sub board. A little more about my hall effect sensor too - it has 4 terminals, one is +5/12v in, (seems happy on either), the 2nd is GND, the 3rd is PICKUP1 and the 4th is PICKUP2. The physical design being a permanent magnet in the centre, a cutout for the teeth to pass through either side (8 on one, 1 on the other) and a sensor at each end. |\ || /| <-- Looks like that side-on. I also noticed an LED on the sub board - would that indicate if the Link is getting any sort of happiness out of the sensor? Cheers! Pictures Below (sensor config, sub board to be added later) http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~cefiro_turbo/car/car.html
  7. Chris MacWhirter

    Maybe I'm an idiot, but..

    Hi again Ashley, if its any help the LS1 sub board appears to have been replaced with P/N:E9RELX2 Rev:3 with the EPROM label on the chip in the socket reading SUB58D8 090307, and there are 4 dip switches currently set as 0 0 1 0 - I havent touched anything but would altering these affect the nature of the way the link detects the signal? On another note I was checking the trigger wires with a multimeter for some reason or another, and the white trigger line appears to be outputting a voltage (around 12v from memory, I can check it again) while the blue one had no voltage on it. The wire is untouched all the way from the ECU harness you have provided right up to the hall effect sensor that has been recently fitted. I checked and found this voltage with both triggers disconnected, is this odd or is there supposed to be voltage on one trigger input only? Thanks - Chris
  8. Chris MacWhirter

    Maybe I'm an idiot, but..

    Yep, I sent it in and had it set back to a regular Link Plus unit (Invoice 00018715) and all the LS1 subboards and EPROMs removed. I popped the case when it came back and it did look a fair bit different inside
  9. Chris MacWhirter

    Maybe I'm an idiot, but..

    Hi again Ashley, a few changes since last time I posted. I have binned the sensors shown previously and are now using a dual hall effect sensor in a distributor body with a single wheel sensor. The outer ring on the sensor wheel has 8 teeth, the inner ring has 1 tooth, and the dual hall slots in such a way as to read each ring separately. I go to crank the engine, and cant see a skerrick of fuel or spark, once again I have to plead ignorance and hope you can help! Cheers, thanks, sorry for the trouble. - Chris
  10. Chris MacWhirter

    Maybe I'm an idiot, but..

    Sounds like a cunning plan to me! I'll send the ECU back to you guys in the very near future with as much detail as I can muster to help make it an easy switch. Thanks for the help, very appreciated
  11. Chris MacWhirter

    Maybe I'm an idiot, but..

    Theres a pic of the internals, with the more than likely inappropriate LS1 configured PROMS http://www.linkecu.com/Members/VRV8/LinkGuts/view Heres a pic of the crank sensor wheel, the way it triggers is much easier to see in this image. I'll post a photo of the cam sensor assembly when I pull it out. http://www.linkecu.com/Members/VRV8/ReluctorWheel/view Ignore the front toothed pulley attached to it, its just the crank pulley for a Gilmour belt. Hope this is some help. I guess I will have to send the Link back to you guys for a bit of a tinker, if it can be reset just to happily manage a generic V8 with sequential injection, multi coil packs etc that would be great. Cheers!
  12. Chris MacWhirter

    Maybe I'm an idiot, but..

    Hi all, I have a LinkPlus (first one) all wired up to a 304ci Holden V8. It's been modded to use individual coilpacks and all the like just to be a bit unique. Now just to make dead sure, I want to check a couple of things that are probably in the book somewhere, but I've missed The dizzy body has been modified with a reluctor sensor and wheel which has heaaaps of teeth, and a cutout which is the sync pulse. The front crank wheel reluctor sensor setup is similar, but larger and fewer teeth, still heaps nonetheless. Just so you know, I've come into this project about half way which always makes life interesting. The guy who has fitted the front reluctor wheel appears to have the cutout lined up with 180 degrees out from #1 TDC - at this point I dont even think the cutout is lined up with the TDC of any cylinder on the motor. So first question - Would it pay to remove the wheel, and fix it back on realigned exactly to #1 TDC? I thought it would be but thought I better check unless it isn't neccessary. 2nd question, does the sync signal from the crank and cam angle sensors need to coincide exactly or is the link not fussy about the signals being staggered? 3rd question, is the link smart enough to figure out the signal from the two sensors? Its going to produce a really interesting waveform, a long series of rapid short pulses followed by a flatline, then another series of rapid pulses. The cutout on the main crank wheel isnt as deep as the troughs of the other teeth, I assume the extra metal is in there to keep the wheel balanced. The cam wheel is very fine toothed too, but the sensor is rated as being of sufficient quality to clearly pick up and send said signal. 4th question (sorry about all the trouble) - I am 95% positive that the injection and ignition isn't wired up correctly. This one will sound like a dumb question but I really want to be certain. The link has been wired up as a 1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3 etc for ignition & injectors, I couldn't see an option to (radically) alter the order of injection and firing, so I'm guessing its time to swap all those lines so that the sequential 1,2,3,4 etc pattern of the link follows the timing order of the engine, rather than the cylinder order. Am I on the right track? I'm a great believer in fuel injection, just has taken me a while to part from carburettors! Thanks for any help folks, its very much appreciated
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