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Adam Marone

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  1. Thanks for that Adam, So I checked the polarity of both sensors and the crank turned out to be correct but the cam was not so I did a pin swap on the sensor side for the cam, rechecked timing with the light but still no start. Looking at the start log it gave no trigger errors whilst cranking but as soon as the key was released the engine briefly coughed and four errors came up. I then hooked up the scope and found something interesting. You'll find the cam trigger starts to go high(?) around about the 13th tooth after the gap, this is shortly after cyl 1 TDC. The purple line is the injector pulse for cylinder 1, seeing as the cam trigger occurs just after tdc cyl1, this is nowhere near 400 degrees btdc as set by the injection timing. I then scoped the coil for cylinder 1 whilst locked to 0 degrees and found it was exactly 360 degrees out, so I simply set the offset to +280 instead of -80 and she fired up perfectly. Thanks a heap for helping me through this one, hugely appreciated!! BTW The scope above is the incorrect -80 offset. I would upload the +280 offset scope but I've reached the data limit for the page lol.
  2. I can undoubtedly guarantee there's only one tooth on the cam. Here's a video of the cam tooth while cranking anyway. the cams are timed using the factory cam positions. the only part that's aftermarket is the crank pulley/trigger wheel. So are you suggesting the cam tooth passes the reluctor at a time when it shouldn't be in relation to a tooth on the crank passing it's own reluctor? Am I wrong to think that this might be fuel related? because the timing light with x1 cam active whilst cranking on the timing light seems perfect, unless the time light is not telling the whole story. 20190505_202809_1.mp4
  3. Adam, When you say "it's not happy" do you mean the cam or crank trigger is not triggering when the ecu expects it to? There is no doubt about the trigger arrangement. I've attached a picture of the trigger wheel I am using on the crank and in the other picture you will see two cam trigger types, the one on the left is the non-vvt early type which is what I have and the right one is the later vvt type which I believe Link already supports in the default mazda/duratec trigger type. You'll see in the log that it didn't fire on the first crank attempt as you described, This issue is what pushed me to get the cam sync working properly. The strange part is that with the cam sync turned on to x1 cam and timing is checked with the timing light and timing locked at 0 degrees it checks out perfectly but when fuel is turned on it doesn't start. no cam sync.llg
  4. Here is a semi successful start and run log file with the trigger offset set to +280 degrees, supposedly firing on the exhaust stroke. I could only keep the engine alive like this with a good amount of throttle. +280 offset x1 cam.llg
  5. No luck yet. I have redone the initial trigger set up procedure, locked the timing to 0 degrees and found that I was in fact firing on the exhaust stroke which was at +280 degree trigger offset. Looking back in the manual it describes the relationship between the tooth after the trigger wheel gap and the trigger, stating if the gap occurs before cylinder 1 TDC then the trigger offset will be in the negative and vise versa. So I've punched in -80 in the offset field and hit enter confirming the timing marks on the crank case lined up at 0 degrees, I then enable the injectors but did not start after several tries. I have uploaded a quick start log, notice how the engine speed jumps up to over 2300rpm during cranking. This was not the engine running as you'll see the map remained unchanged, could this signify a problem with the crank trigger? I have checked the gap between the trigger and the wheel and it is around 1mm of clearance. Oddly, If I try and start the car with the trigger offset at +280 degrees I can get it to start but runs extremely rough. Thanks -80 trigger x1 cam no start.llg Btw, here is a PCL file if you need to take a look no start.pcl Again, Here is a another log file with a no start. Notice again how at a certain point the engine speed changes during cranking but without any tick over. Strangely, on both logged start attempts the engine offers a few kicks once the starter is disengaged. -80 no start 2.llg
  6. Hi, I need some help with setting up the triggering on my Mazda 3 LF-DE (early, non-VCT) engine. Crank sensor is reluctor type 36-1 and 1 on the intake cam. I have managed to start and run the engine with the sync for trigger 2 set to none but when I set it to cam x1 it will not start. The missing tooth on the crank occurs approximately 160 degrees BTDC cylinder 1 and the home trigger on the cam occurs about 10 degrees ATDC. None of the preset Mazda 3 or Duratec trigger setups will work because these later engines have VCT and different cam trigger patterns. I'm at a dead end on this one so some help would be appreciated. Cheers
  7. Hi, A little puzzled on this one. I have a g4 storm with Aux 7 currently set up to drive a boost control solenoid (mac valve). After not being able to add boost over normal spring pressure I ran some voltage checks on the Aux 7 output and found this: Whilst engine off, ignition on; set to "boost solenoid" @20hz: reads 10.8v set to "test (on)": reads 0v set to "off": reads 10.8v No sure if it's related but whilst moving between these settings I can hear my idle motor click each time (engine not running but ignition on). Sounds like it might be a wiring issue but not quite sure where to start so any help is appreciated.
  8. Scott, I'm running a 64bit 8.1 version and this is the first time i've attempted to connect with this particular laptop. I have also checked the device manager and it is showing that the device is working properly. Â Dyna Tune, How do I go about disabling this? Â Thanks
  9. Hi, Â I have also developed this problem, it seems I have tried everything so far to get it connected without any luck. The latest version of PCLink installs without any errors. I am running windows 8. What can I do? Â Regards, Adam
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